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2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Broad Peak Summit Push Stopped

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Feb 062020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Broad Peak Summit Push Stopped

The Karakorum continues to play tough. Yesterday the only team on K2 quickly flew out ending their effort and today the Broad Peak team halted their summit push but suggest they will try again in February to meet Denis Urubko’s definition of winter. Broad Peak – Illness Stops Summit Push Don Bowie developed some kind of lung issue forcing he and Denis to abandoned their summit push. I hope it wasn’t HAPE and he can recover. They still have 23 days to go until the end of February. Urubko posted on Facebook: We fixed tent and drink soup in ‘my’ continue reading

Feb 052020
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs:K2 Winter OVER, Broad Peak Summit Push Underway

Huge news that Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s Imagine Nepal has ended its K2 winter effort. The reasons remain vague. The team flew back to Askole by helicopter ending speculation some might stay and join with Urubko and Bowie after their Broad Peak attempt currently underway. But we never know for sure until everyone is back home. K2 – OVER!! Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s Imagine Nepal team has ended their winter effort for “personal reasons” They had established their Camp 2 at the base of House’s Chimney at 6,600 meters, the lowest altitude reached by any of the eight winter attempts since the continue reading

Oct 112019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Carlos, 80, Ends Dhaulagiri Attempt; Season Wrap-Up

Looking to summit all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks, Carlos Soria Fontán has only Dhaulagiri and Shishapangma remaining, but Dhaul is proving to be difficult. The 80-year-old Spanish climber ended his 10th attempt overnight as high winds pummelled the summit and their Camp 3 location at 7,250-meters/23,790-feet. The summit is 8,167-meters/26,794-feet. With a poor weather forecast, it appears this season is over. Outfitter Expedition Base provided these details: Dhaulagiri Expedition update: news in not long ago. All climbers (unconfirmed) from all teams have called it at Camp 3 and are descending to base camp. The high winds were unrelenting for more than continue reading

Oct 062019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Last Climbers Abandon Everest

Nims confirmed his last climb of his Project Possible and the remaining teams on Everest leave due to the end of the season and serac dangers. Everest – And Then There Were None Madison Mountaineering and Kilian Jornet both fearing the devasting effect of being hit by the trailer sized ice serac a few thousand feet above the Khumbu Icefall when it falls, have officially abandoned their climbs. Their Nepali logistics organizer, Iswari Paudel, Managing Director at Himalayan Guides, confirmed their decision in the Himalayan Times Garrett told me yesterday: Yes, I think I’m going to call it off tomorrow…we’re running out continue reading

Oct 052019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: New Everest Serac Picture

Well, the autumn Himalaya season seems to have a second breath on Manaslu. Disaster nearly avoided on Dhaulagiri climbers and a new picture of the hanging serac over the Everest Khumbu Icefall. Russians are back on Manaslu.  Carlos Soria Fontán at age 80 will make one more summit bid on Dhaulagiri. And, an unclimbed route on Ama Dablam. Everest – Serac Watch Madison Mountaineering‘s team is down to Garret and one client. They are at base camp and seem content to wait as long as their permit allows (which is mid October) to see if anything happens with the serac. Garrett checked in and continue reading

Oct 032019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Dhaulagiri Summits!

Extremely determined Dhaulagiri climbers made the summit this morning. No movement on Everest and climbs have ended on Manaslu, Cho Oyu. Dhaulagiri – Summits!! Sergi Mingote summited in tough conditions. This summit takes him halfway through his program to summit all the 8000ers in 1,000 days. Now he has seven including K2, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, and Gasherbrum II. Sergi posted this today: I’VE REACHED THE TOP! In only 444 days this is the seventh 8000 m-summit, without the help of artificial oxygen. After Broad Peak, K2, Manaslu, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum II, today I’ve already reached continue reading

Oct 022019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Determined Climbers Not Giving Up

Looks like everyone is off Cho Oyu by the Chinese imposed October 1 deadline. Almost everyone is finished with Manaslu and the Dhaulagiri climbers will either summit or turn back over the next couple of days fighting deep snow conditions. And on Everest, serac watch continues for a determined few. More flight problems for Lukla. Project Possible: Permit Approved, Nim’s Quiet Nirmal Purja has not confirmed on his social media that he received the permit from China to climb Shishapangma but multiple media reports say he has been approved. One said he must wait until at least October 8 to enter continue reading

Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: China Issues Shishapangma Permit to Nims

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Sep 302019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: China Issues Shishapangma Permit to Nims

Multiple media outlets are reporting that China has agreed to give Nirmal Purja a permit to climb Shishapangma to achieve his self-imposed timetable of November 23 to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months. Thus far there has been no word on Nims’ social media. The news broke on this Italian website and then after I reached out to the Himalaya Times to confirm this story they reported: “Dawa Sherpa, Managing Director at Climbalaya Treks told THT that he received a message from China and Tibet Mountaineering Association that Purja-led team would get a special permit for Mt Shishapangma at continue reading

Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Last Cho Oyu Summits as China Closes Tibet to Foreigners

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Sep 302019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Last Cho Oyu Summits as China Closes Tibet to Foreigners

With the autumn Himalaya climbing season winding down many are following 80-year-old Carlos Soria Fontán on Dhaulagiri, and Kilian Jornet on Everest and of course, the giant hanging serac over the Khumbu Icefall. Teams are arriving for the popular 6,000-meter peak Ama Dablam now. Chinese Fear China has said all foreigners must be out of Tibet no later than October 1 fearing protests around China’s National Day which commemorates the founding of People’s Republic of China in 1949. This put pressure on the Cho Oyu climbers this season to accelerate their schedules. Cho has been regularly summited into October and occasionally continue reading

Sep 292019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Another Team Abandons Autumn Everest

With little hope of the house sized serac teetering above the Khumbu Icefall of releasing anytime soon, another team gave up on their summit plans leaving only two teams with remaining Everest hopes and dreams. The final pushes on Manaslu and Dhaulagiri are underway. Everest – Serac Watch Today the Andrzej Bargiel team left base camp giving up on his dream to ski directly from the summit to base camp without removing his skis and without supplemental oxygen. I’m betting he will try again perhaps next autumn or even in spring if the crowds are not too bad. Madison Mountaineering‘s team continue reading