Everest 2024: Who’s Climbing This Year?

Lhotse Face May 20 2008 by Alan Arnette

Teams are filling up with Everest aspirants from around the world. I estimate there will be around 600 foreign climbers, supported by 900 Sherpas, taking the total to 1,700 people on the Nepal side and 100 foreigners, with 100 support climbers, on the Tibet side. During the Spring 2024 Everest season, look for a whopping 1,900 people from base camps to the summit. Let’s hope for an extended period of good summit weather (winds under 30 mph/48kph) to let them spread out.

With a recent summit success rate of around 60%, we can expect about 1,140 summits, with Sherpas accounting for half the total. This would smash the 2019 record summit total of 877, comprising 661 from the Nepali side and 216 from Tibet. Nepal issued a record 478 permits to foreigners in 2024. As usual, the Nepali teams will dominate the mountain. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Icefall Doctors Mark Season Start

Icefall Doctors training in 2016. Courtesy of Pemba Sherpa

The Icefall Doctors are on their way to Everest Base Camp to install the fixed rope and ladders from Base Camp to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. Usually, this work is completed by the time most climbers arrive in early April. This year, they attended a one-day training session at the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) in Phortse and a week-long training program at Everest Base Camp. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, SPCC, said that Conrad Anker and KCC instructors taught the courses. Seven Summits Treks will fix the route from Camp 2 to the summit. Alos in this post, two popular climbs have reopened. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Nepal’s “GPS Chip” Plan has Major Problems

Recco Demo

The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has announced another “new rule” for the upcoming Everest 2024 Spring season, after the horrendous 2023 season that set all-time records for deaths on Everest at 18 deaths–6 Sherpas and 12 clients. In my estimation, 11 deaths were preventable. Authorities wanting to reduce bad press made a last-minute rule saying that all climbers must rent a tracking device that would save lives with faster rescues. However, they choose the wrong tool, and the solution to missing climbers requires zero technology, only common sense. #everest2024

Everest 2024 Coverage: Are Luxury Operators Being Targeted by Nepal?

Seven Summits Treks Manaslu 2022 Base Camp. Courtsey of Pasang Rinzee Sherpa

Out of the blue, Nepal announced new policies limiting “luxuries” offered by operators at Everest Base Camp. The authorities cited environmental impact but still allowed an unlimited number of people on the mountain each season. Luxuries on Everest are nothing new and offered by most operators, but some more than others. The limits on luxuries apply to Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam and are effective for the spring 2024 season.. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Interview with Garrett Madison on his “Aconcagua Ambush” and the Upcoming Everest Season

We are getting closer to #Everest2024, and there are some new rules Nepal is proposing. In this with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, we discuss his recent “Aconcagua Ambush,” where he and his client summited the highest peak in South America, spending only one night on the mountain and used an experimental oxygen system that has promise other high peaks. Also, his thoughts on Nepal’s plan to require all climbers to use WAG bags to remove solid human waste from Everest high camps, the use of helicopters on Everest, and a limit on luxuries at base camp. #everest2024

Everest 2024 Coverage: WAG bags Finally Required on Everest

toilet drum from Base Camp

As we ease closer to Everest 2024, the Nepal government is taking some last-minute actions. As usual, we’ll see if the authorities enforce these rules, as most operators (and clients) ignore them without consequences. There are at least two “new rules” with more forthcoming. I fully applaud Nepal for taking any action to clean any mountain, but I will hold my applause until after I get the first-hand reports, not from the MoT, if this new policy of removing waste is successful. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Welcome to Everest 2024 Coverage

Everest Southeast Ridge Route Map. Courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2024 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on Everest 2022, so I officially welcome you. This season will be my 24th season of all things Everest: 18th time providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.

I did similar coverage for 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, 2022, 2023 and now the 2024 season. In 2020, when Everest was closed due to COVID-19, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series that’s available as an e-book. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008, and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016.

If you are one of my millions of regular readers, hello again; if you are new, welcome! My goal is to provide insight and analysis of the activity with no favorites or agendas. I use sources directly from the mountain, public information, and my own experiences to write my posts.

I usually post daily as the season gets started in early April and ramp up to almost hourly coverage during the intense summit pushes in mid to late May. I spend several hours a day creating these updates. You can sign up for (and cancel) email notifications on the lower right sidebar or check the site frequently.

Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer’s. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on this button that is always on the top right sidebar.

#everest2024

Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2024 edition

Everest Routes

For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes comes down between the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For almost everyone, all other routes are too dangerous, too difficult, and not commercially guided. This post will take a look at the various routes and go deep into the most popular commercial ones through 2023. #everest2024