Everest 2024: Interview with Garrett Madison on his “Aconcagua Ambush” and the Upcoming Everest Season

We are getting closer to #Everest2024, and there are some new rules Nepal is proposing. In this with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, we discuss his recent “Aconcagua Ambush,” where he and his client summited the highest peak in South America, spending only one night on the mountain and used an experimental oxygen system that has promise other high peaks. Also, his thoughts on Nepal’s plan to require all climbers to use WAG bags to remove solid human waste from Everest high camps, the use of helicopters on Everest, and a limit on luxuries at base camp. #everest2024

Everest 2024 Coverage: WAG bags Finally Required on Everest

toilet drum from Base Camp

As we ease closer to Everest 2024, the Nepal government is taking some last-minute actions. As usual, we’ll see if the authorities enforce these rules, as most operators (and clients) ignore them without consequences. There are at least two “new rules” with more forthcoming. I fully applaud Nepal for taking any action to clean any mountain, but I will hold my applause until after I get the first-hand reports, not from the MoT, if this new policy of removing waste is successful. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Welcome to Everest 2024 Coverage

Everest Southeast Ridge Route Map. Courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2024 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on Everest 2022, so I officially welcome you. This season will be my 24th season of all things Everest: 18th time providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.

I did similar coverage for 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, 2022, 2023 and now the 2024 season. In 2020, when Everest was closed due to COVID-19, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series that’s available as an e-book. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008, and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016.

If you are one of my millions of regular readers, hello again; if you are new, welcome! My goal is to provide insight and analysis of the activity with no favorites or agendas. I use sources directly from the mountain, public information, and my own experiences to write my posts.

I usually post daily as the season gets started in early April and ramp up to almost hourly coverage during the intense summit pushes in mid to late May. I spend several hours a day creating these updates. You can sign up for (and cancel) email notifications on the lower right sidebar or check the site frequently.

Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer’s. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on this button that is always on the top right sidebar.

#everest2024

Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2024 edition

Everest Routes

For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes comes down between the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For almost everyone, all other routes are too dangerous, too difficult, and not commercially guided. This post will take a look at the various routes and go deep into the most popular commercial ones through 2023. #everest2024

Everest 2024 Podcast: Ryan Mitchell on how a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest

Ryan Mitchell

How a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest? Well, Ryan Mitchell, 19, living in central Massachusetts, explains how in this podcast.

Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago, wanting advice and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2022. He had little to no experience, so while I told him there were many companies who would take his money and have him on Everest, the best approach would be to wait at least a year and gain the skills and experience it would take to make a safe attempt on the world’s highest peak. He agreed, and we’ve been working together for the past twelve months.

In this podcast, Ryan explains how he is funding his climbs, his training approach, and critically, is his “why”

#everest2024

Podcast with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow: Records, Rescues, Deaths and More

The past few months have been difficult in the mountaineering world. We have seen climbs on many 800ers that turned out tragically: Mohammed Hassan on K2, Anna Gutu, Migmar Sherpa, American Gina Marie Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama Sherpa on Shishapangma. A few dramatic rescues and a neverending quest for records.

I turned to long-time alpinist Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, to try and make sense of what’s going on, what can be done to prevent these seemingly preventable deaths and if the pursuit of records is worth the risks. We also discuss his return to Everest planned for 2024 after missing the last four seasons, due to China’s closure of their side of Everest.

Podcast with Jost Kobusch’s Winter 2023/24 Everest West Ridge Attempt

I caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France, to discuss his upcoming 2023/24 winter, no O’s, solo attempt of Everest’s West Ridge. No climber has reached the summit using this route and precise style. He will begin climbing on December 22, 2023, the beginning of the astronomical calendar winter. He will complete his climb no later than February 28, 2024. #everest2023 #everest2024

Nepal Increases Fees to Climb Everest

Everest April 6 2015

The long-rumored Everest permit fee increase will now happen for the 2025 season. The permit fee for a foreigner will increase from USD $ 11,000 to $15,000. For a Nepali citizen, it will be $568. The increase is still in the proposal phase but appears to be pre-approved. As always, wait to see as Nepal will often float news rules or fees, measure the reaction, and then pull back or never implement the idea if there is bad publicity that may hurt tourism revenue. #everest2024