Que the Weather!

Well, right on schedule a somewhat unexpected snowstorm, complete with lightening and thunder, rolled into the Everest camps. Climbers stopped in their tracks, literally, to wait it out. Needless to say, this put a bit of a chill on talks of an early summit. But we will see. As I had mentioned before, it uncanny how the weather is excellent in April then turns ugly on May 1st almost every year – happy May Day!

Climbing for a Cause

As we spend the last day of April monitoring the climbers on both sides of Everest, I thought it would be good to look at their motivations. Climbing historians know of the famous 1923 George Mallory quote, “Because it’s there” but others have more personal reasons. The primary action on both sides right now is working on their acclimatization through rotations to from low to high camps.

Mental Toughness on Everest

Starting with the north today. Teams are now occupying Advanced Base Camp. They will use this as their launching point for acclimatization rotations to the North Col and most will eventually climb to camp 1 on the Northeast Ridge. As we know, the north can be much colder and windier than on the south. Multiple reports are coming in that Everest is quite dry this year. This can increase the difficulty for some people not used to climbing on rock with crampons.

Life in the Western Cwm

Climbers continue to spend time in the contradictory environment of the Western Cwm on Everest’s South Col route. One minute they are freezing; another stripping off clothes trying to cool down but not so much to risk severe sunburn. Many teams climb to camp 1 at the top of the Icefall and then take a day hike to camp 2 to get the red blood cells working. This is their first introduction to the Cwm – a welsh word for valley.

Into the Icefall

Ptarmigans in the summer

It is getting busy! Climbers finally started going through the Icefall on Thursday, Nepal time. It is always surprising during the first trip to see where the route goes. Climbers look for the milestones: the Prayer Flags, the Popcorn, the Football Field, Vertical Ladders. At each break, they look ahead in vain for the top but are rewarded with a full layout of Everest Base Camp down below.

EBC on the North Gets Crowded

Everest North ABC

Everest south receives a lot of attention due to the sheer number of climbers but let’s not forget the north side. Adventure Peaks’ large team of 21 climbers have arrived and now will spend the next 5 days adjusting to the altitude before trekking to ABC via the Interim Camp.

The Migration to Base Camp Begins

Yaks to Everest Base Camp

After last week’s flight delays to Lukla, Yeti Airlines and others are running full loads this week. Multiple reports from teams speak of their uneventful flights to Lukla – which is a good thing! Lukla is generally ranked in the top three most dangerous airports in the world due to the short runway perched on a cliff. For the next few weeks, however, teams will be in Kathmandu and in the villages throughout the Khumbu.