Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Sherpas had fixed the route to the summit on the Nepal side as of 8:35 p.m., May 10—exactly when they predicted about a week ago. This opens the Southeast Ridge to about 600 people, clients and support, to make their summit attempts. The Tibetan rope-fixing team summited on May 7, opening that side to about 100 climbers. #everest2024
You know you’ve made your name in the climbing world when Reinhold Messner calls you “the best high-altitude climber in the world.” Today, Steve runs one of the most successful broad-based coaching services. Uphill Athlete, founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston in 2014, has become synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running and mountaineering to ski racing. I caught up with Steve for a wide-ranging Podcast.
We have the first death on an 8000-meter peak of the season; a Sherpa with Seven Summits Trek died while descending from Makalu’s summit. Teams are getting in position for Nepal side summits while more teams enter Tibet for Everest. Remember that both Cho Oyu and Shishapangma are closed to foreigners for climbing this spring. #everest2024
We have the first Everest summits of the spring 2024 season. Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow, now in Chengdu on his way to Chinese Base Camp on the Tibet side, tells me the Tibetan rope fixing team summited today, May 7, opening the route to all climbers.. #everest2024
The Himalayan season continues pretty much normal while we have summits on a few of the “other 8000ers. China has issued climbing permits for their side of Everest. #everest2024
The biggest news from Everest is the lack of news. Typhone-force winds strafed the mountain like a summer hail storm in Colorado. Reports of forty or more tents were damaged at Camp 2. Despite this, a few teams continued their rotations, and more made plans as hopes increased the fixed ropes would reach the summit next week. The high winds of last week have calmed, and there is no typhoon activity of substance in the Bay of Bengal. Let’s hope for a May of long weather windows! #everest2024
While tents were being blown around at Camp 2, the Nepal Supreme Court issued a series of well-intended vague rules that potentially will join a long list of ignored rules. The largest and most well-connected operators have long learned that doing whatever they want has no consequences other than making more profit.
I applaud the authorities for the WAG bag experiment this season and their RECCO program, even if they did not think through it. Also, the Supreme Court ruling effort is well-intended and may be the start of meaningful changes to enhance safety and environmental protection. #everest2024
Everest’s summit is slammed by hurricane-force winds, causing most teams to hunker down or pause rotations for a few days. However, the fixed ropes have reached the South Col. China confirms it will open the Nepal border on May 7th. #everest2024
Commercial teams have begun their acclimatization rotations with climbs to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. The Icefall route is more complicated this spring, and some climbers take ten hours or more to reach the first Camp. The fixed ropes are now well up the Lhotse Face. As of this update, no Everest teams have entered Tibet. #everest2024
I’m getting reports from climbers who completed their first rotations to Camp 1 and are now back at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side that the Icefall is quite challenging this year. Some say it takes ten hours to navigate the route to Camp 1, which has an amazing number of “zig-zags.” The number of ladders is extremely low, under five. Another team drops climbing in Tibet. And no search on Shishapangma this spring. #everest2024
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
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