Category: Everest News

The first few climbers have made rotations to Camp 1 while the rest of the teams at Everest Base camp are preparing to enter the Khumbu Icefall for the first time this season. The permits for Everest continue to grow, now 321 on 34 teams approaching the 219 record of 382. Lhotse has an astounding 83 on 9 teams. Look for over 700 people on the routes this spring.

The weather continues to be a concern, not current but previous with a dry winter of little snowfall making the Lhotse Face rock hard blue ice. We are seeing this on Annapurna with a summit bid underway. Unexpected hard ice above Camp 4 caused the Sherpas to use more rope than they carried and they ran out. More was helicoptered in from Kathmandu, a first to my knowedge.

I was asked to summarize the Everest season thus far, my answer, “normal.” The fear of quarantines, extensive testing, and chaos in Kathmandu never materialized. In fact, most people flew in and out over a couple of days, shorter than usual. Flights to Lukla were about as expected, albeit with some delays for the smoke from forest fires. And the trek to EBC, well normal except that the teahouses were pretty empty due to the lack of trekkers. Now with climbers at base camp, they are ramping up for their first rotation, again pretty much on time. The only pressing issue, other than potentially a massive COVID outbreak at camp, is the weather.

The number of permits continues to rise for Everest. Now at 290 spread across 30 teams, it appears Everest will be crowded again for this spring of 2021. Reports are coming in of low snow amounts this past winter so rockfall may be an issue, especially with so many people climbing together. We saw this same objective danger on K2 this past winter.

Base Camp is filling up as more teams continue to end their trek. They are taking a few days to rest and brush up on skills before making their first rotation to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. Internet service at EBC appears to be spotty according to many reports I’m getting. Climbers are having to do “walkabouts” to find a signal. This happens all the time with Ncell, the mobile phone provider, but for EverestLink, it’s usually more reliable and available. I’m sure they will improve it.

There appears the be the usual profiles on the peak Many who had permits for last year, jumped at the chance to go this year.  Also, there are the “repeat” customers who have tried before and not made it for a variety of reasons and, also, as usual, there are those who are seeking to make a name by a “first.” Let’s drill down on a few.

Teams are approaching Everest Base Camp with some already there, others expected tomorrow and into early next week. They will take a few days to adjust to their new home at 17,500-feet while they will review the skills needed to safely climb the icefall. I expect a few teams to do a rotation to Camp 1 late next week.  Through April 9, Nepal has issued 244 Everest climbing permits to foreigners.

The number of climbing permits granted keeps increasing. 222 permits are now in Everest aspirants’ hands and 389 for all Nepal peaks for all teams this spring. With hundreds of climbers and trekkers on the trails, the Khumbu is busy, but reports are coming in saying overall it feels quiet compared to previous years. The main difference is the absence of so many trekking teams. Some teams will arrive at base camp this weekend or early next week. Look for the first trips through the Icefall around April 15, a bit earlier than usual. I’ve also added a new short feature in the video the Gear Corner where I briefly talk about the gear used on Everest.

I caught up with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Namche Bazaar. He describes the journey thus far for #Everest2021. Also, his parents are with him on this trek, a real treat!

The number of climbing permits granted keeps increasing. 167 permits are in Everest aspirants’ hands and 303 for all the Nepals peaks with teams this spring. With hundreds of climbers and trekkers on the trails, the Khumbu is busy, but reports are coming in saying overall it feels quiet compared to previous years. Let’s take a look at the first steps in the Khumbu