Click for site home
The Blog on alanarnette.com
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Mar 012019
 
Everest 2019: Team Locations and Headlines

LATEST HEADLINE May 25: 10 Everest Deaths, 825+ Total Summits  Welcome to the 2019 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information. Click for the complete Everest 2019 coverage Current Headlines Saturday May 25 going for continue reading

May 232019
 
Everest 2019: Summit Wave Recap 6 - Update

As the season winds down, there are a few teams that choose to wait out the winds and the crowds. We have summits on the Tibet side Friday morning, May 24. Amazingly, there are a few teams still waiting for early next week. UPDATE: Another death: Tibet side 360 Expeditions: Kevin Hynes, 56, Irish died at North Col after turning back at 8300m. He had previously summited Everest Nepal and Lhotse. Also on the Tibet side with Kobler & Partner, Ernst Langrast, died near 8600-meters after summiting.   Dhruba Bista, died a EBC after evacuation from C3. He was with Himalayan Ski Treks. Now continue reading

May 232019
 
Everest 2019: 3 New Deaths, Now 9 on Everest, 19 Overall

Three new deaths were reported on Everest during last 24 hours up to Midnight Thursday, May 24, 2019. Summit pushes are underway now. The winds have returned plus the routes are extremely crowded on both sides due to few summit weather windows this spring. Thus far this spring, there have been 15 deaths across six 8,000-meter peaks: Everest, Cho Oyu, Annapurna, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse. The deceased climbers have been: 7 Indian, 1 Sherpa, 1 Taiwanese, 1 American, 1 Bulgarian, 1 Chilean, 1 Peruvian, and 1 TBD Summit Windows Normally there are between 7 to 12 good weather days for summit continue reading

May 232019
 
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 5 Recap - 3 Deaths

Another big day on Everest with well over 200 total summits from both sides. The winds picked back up testing some climbers along with extremely cold temperatures.  Everest ER is noting a lot of frostbite. Sadly, yet another death. Sherpa Family Summits I’m so happy and proud of Kami Sherpa, whom I summited Everest and K2 with, that he summited Everest with two of his sons while working for Climbing The Seven Summits team. Mingma Dorjee Sherpa became what he thinks is the first Nepal educated Engineer to summit. He graduated a few years ago with an Electrical Engineering degree. Also continue reading

May 222019
 
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 5 Underway - Update 5

Update 5: Benegas Brothers summited Furtenbach “Flash” team summited Adventure Consultants posted their summiteers: Alexander Pancoe Roman Tschupp – main team member Guide – Rob Smith – 6th summit Passang Bhote – 11th summit Chheten Dorji Sherpa – 7th summit Guru Bhote – 2nd summit Passang Angyu Bhote – 3rd summit Update 4: Sam James Taylor of the For Ranger team has made the summit with not named Sherpas. On the Tibet side, summits are bring reported: Climbalaya team for successfully summiting. Mingma Sherpa at base camp reported that seven clients summited at 5:58 am with seven Sherpas. Guide Valentyn Sypavin, Pavel, Ekaterina Klenova, continue reading

May 222019
 
Everest 2019: American Dead on Everest- Update

With huge crowds on Everest an accident occurred while descending between the summit and the Hillary Step, according to friends of the deceased. I was told by friends of the family that American Don Cash, 55 from Utah, apparently fell to his death on Wednesday May 22. He had two climbing Sherpas with him and was using Pioneer Adventures, a Nepali owned guide company out of Kathmandu This is the third death on Everest this season. Indian, Ravi Thakar, died after summiting while at the South Col and Irish climber,  Seamus Sean Lawless, disappeared and is presumed dead from a fall between the continue reading

May 222019
 
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 4 Recap - First Tibet Summits

The rope team made the summit on the Tibet side and I’m being told there are no winds at Camp 3 as climbers are leaving for the summit on Wednesday night, May 22.  Meanwhile over 200 people summited from Nepal on Wednesday morning. There were long waits reported from the Balcony to the South Summit. On the Tibet side, Adrian Ballinger proudly told me late This Wednesday night that their member who left the US only 12 days ago summited just behind the Chinese rope team: Alpenglow Lightning Ascent summited to day with rope fixers!!!!! 10 days in country an continue reading

May 212019
 
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 4 Underway - Tiny Window - Update 3

Update 3: IMG reports summits: Ms. Daphne de Jong Netherlands Sonam Tashi Sherpa Nepal Ms. Fatima Deryan Republic of Lebanon Ang Karma Sherpa Nepal Kami Sherpa Nepal Mr. Julien Andre Maurice Laurent France Mingma Dorjee Sherpa Nepal Mr. Ralph Kisso Republic of Lebanon Sonam Dorjee Sherpa Nepal Thunang Lhomi Nepal Mr. Ole Petter Thunes Norway Pasang Kami Sherpa Nepal Sona Chhiri Sherpa Nepal Ms. Charlotte Adrienne Austin USA Phinjo Dorji Sherpa Nepal Mr. Mark Ryan Ballard Canada Fura Gyalzen Sherpa Nepal Mr. Adam Michael Clark USA Jangbu Sherpa Nepal   What we are seeing are the winds at different velocities at different continue reading

May 212019
 
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 3 Recap, Wave 4 Underway 250 Expected

Looks like the winds have finally dropped. Teams for both the Nepal and Tibet sides report calm conditions and summit pushes underway. Wave 3 Recap: Summits!!! There were many summits Tuesday morning May 21. I know of these: Dawa Steven Sherpa and the Asian Trekking team made the top Tuesday morning: The Eco Everest Expedition 2019 team along with our Mananging Director, Dawa Steven Sherpa and the climbing sherpa for the successful summit on Mt. Everest this morning and we wish them all a safe return Expedition Members Anita Devi – Indian Samer Akkad – Syrian Nicholas Simon Hollis – British Aliki Anastasopoulou – Greek Huadong continue reading

May 202019
 
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 3 Summits and Delays - Update 1

Update 1: Summit Climb reports summits with no names or detail: “Today 1st Team reach at the Summit. Congratulations. Have safe down. 2nd Team reach at Camp 3. Wish them best up luck.” The winds on Everest are sporadic as the jet stream wobbles nearby. This is one of the toughest weeks in recent memory. Some teams already at the South Col postponed their summit plans but some went on to summit the morning of May 21, 2019. The ropes are still not to the summit on the Tibet side. Once again, this is when you want to be with continue reading