It’s windy out there! Winds at K2 Base Camp are gusting to over 60 mph, but should calm soon and next week looks amazingly good!
Big Picture
Not a lot to report given the winds on Friday were unbelievably strong. It appears lots of people are taking the time to evaluate their next steps. Most of the best and most experienced climbers are announcing they will stay and give the summit a go when the weather allows, perhaps in a week or so. Would be nice to see more summits in February to ward off any winter definition controversy.
Snorri – Helping with Recovery
John Snorri Sigurjonsson with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his son Sajid Ali have signaled they will stay as long as it takes. A film crew arrived to document their attempt. John sent me these photos from K2 Base Camp today:
Seven Summits Treks – Climbing will continue with good weather
Seven Summits Trek’s has their team at base camp. By my count there are 18 members and about 20 Sherpas still left. With the death of Sergi Mingote, one of his climbing partners, Tamara Lunger (probably the most experienced member for winter 8000ers), is working through her emotions and will stay:
As you may have already read, Alex Gavan has left base camp. And I thank him that he has walked with me until here. It has been a very turbulent time for me, full of worries, tears and dark moments. But I decided however to stay here, because I always try to find in every bad thing also something to discover, to understand, to overcome and thus become stronger. K2 means so much to me and although the last rotation on the mountain tried me psychologically, I am convinced that everything I am experiencing here is of great value!
Desnivel has a good interview with the late Sergi Mingote’s teammate Chilean climber Juan Pablo Mohr where he describe Sergi’s fall (he was in front of him and just saw him go by. He was not clipped into the fixed rope) and his plan with Tamara Lunger:
Now the plans is to go to make a summit attempt in the next window. We will team up with Tamara Lunger. We want to do this summit for Sergi. We are motivated, we sleep at 7,000 meters with Sergi and we are well acclimatized. We go with everything and we are going to try it for him. We are now lucky to have this angel accompanying us on the ascent.
Both Tamara and JP will climb without supplemental oxygen.
Manaslu – Back to Base Camp
Simone Moro, Alex Txikon, and Iñaki Alvarez are back to Manaslu Base Camp after going down to the nearest village to wait out high winds. Tenji Sherpa and Vinayak Jaya Malla are at Manaslu Base Camp ready to move higher. Alex Txikon posted:
Another day at BC. Working with great enthusiasm, preparing everything in order to go up as soon as conditions allow (let’s see if the wind drops …)
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
Resources:
- Share your opinion on the reader polls
- A 30-minute documentary of Alan’s 2014 K2 Summit
- Known GPS Trackers:
- The traditional K2 Camp locations are:
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- Base Camp: 17,500ft/5334m
- Advanced Base Camp: 18,650ft/5650m
- Camp 1: 19,965’/6050m
- Camp 2: 22,110’/6700m
- Camp 3: 23,760’/7200m
- Camp 4: 25,080’/7600m
- Summit: 28,251”/8611
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6 thoughts on “Winter K2 Update: Windy”
Alan – why would Sergei have not been clipped into the rope? Is there a reason that a non-mountaineer like me wouldn’t know?
I tried to click on the link to the interview but I got a 404 page not found error.
This fall is so tragic and senseless it’s hard to understand. I fell for his family and friends.
Sorry about that. I fixed the link, it’s
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&ie=UTF-8&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fdesnivel.com
It’s not uncommon for some climbers, paradoxically, the most experienced to not clip in at times primarily in the name of speed. We’ll never know.
Thank you.
Well I am no expert but I believe some of the high mountains are littered with old ropes. Respectful climbers take them down. But the first people up often leave the ropes to help others. This can end up being dangerous if the ropes are left a long time and are weakening.
Hi Alan,
What happens to the fixed rope at the end of the expedition or season? Are they just left there as relics of previous success or ever cleared away?
I’ll try to cover this in the next blog post.
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