Month: May 2022

I may have to start using scientific notation for numbering the summits wave. We are now at number eight. In 2018, there were 11 consecutive days, and in 2019, only three. I’m expecting a pretty low number of summits this morning, but I’m always surprised.

Yet another day of manageable winds, albeit Madison Mountaineering is reporting that it is a bit breezy at Camp 3 tonight, May 18th. This spike was in the forecast. They appear to be targeting Friday morning for their summit, which could be one of the last this season.

Alpine Ascents Int. is currently on the summit push from the South Col where they spent two nights. It’s unclear if there are many other teams with them, as most have cleared out already. There are probably a couple of Nepali outfits there.

Wave Seven!, Yes, Tuesday will perhaps see wave seven depending on the winds.  At least 27 more summits Monday Morning, May 16, 2022, bringing the total on both sides to 396 on the Neal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. More going for Tuesday, depending on the winds. They are forecasted to gust to 45mph/70 kph on Monday night. By my count, there are around 40 to 60 people left to summit.

7 Summits Club is on their summit push aiming for Tuesday morning, May 18. No updates as of this post.  Alpine Ascents Int. is at the South Col where they are spending the night and will target May 18. And Madison Mountaineering seems pleased to hold out at Camp2 for a few more days.

Believe it or not, Everest keeps on coming on with day five. Some with huge numbers and large support ratios. At least 27 more summits Monday Morning, May 16, 2022, bringing the total on both sides to 388 on the Neal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. More going for Monday morning.

It was the third straight morning of summits on Mt. Everest in very good conditions. Saturday morning saw well over 75 people summit bringing the total from both sides to around 350. More summit bid tonight for Sunday morning. Also, we are seeing many people being the first from their country to summit Everest.

It was the third straight morning of summits on Mt. Everest in very good conditions. Saturday morning saw well over 75 people summit bringing the total from both sides to around 350. More summit bid tonight for Sunday morning. Also, we are seeing many people being the first from their country to summit Everest.

The fourth wave of Everest summiters are beginning to reach the summit, with more female youngest records being set. With the Jet Stream MIA, the weather is unbelievably perfect, thus allowing the 500-600 climbers to spread out and minimize crowds, not that they don’t exist.

Everest now has a formula. It’s straightforward: a high level of Sherpa support, a high level of oxygen support, and this year, an extremely lucky weather system, absent of the Jet Stream. Thankfully this has allowed day after day of 100 or more summits with minimal (but no) crowds and no reported (but still could have occurred) deaths or rescues. Let’s hope the weather continues until the queue is empty. 

Another headline from this season thus far is the young female summiters, albeit with massive support, in some cases a 1:7 ratio. Putting style aside, we need the next-gen to make a difference in conservation (LNT), adventure, exploring, and ambition. They will find new routes in the old mountains.

The third wave of Everest summiters has come and gone, with around 22 members supported by 37 Sherpas. Thus far, there have been about 202 summits on the Nepal side and 50 on the Tibet side, for 252 total this Spring season. Many more people are climbing now, aiming for Saturday morning, May 14.

There were 316 permits issued on the Nepal side, so estimating that 30% drop out for various reasons and overall for members, the success rate hovers around 80%; we can expect another 175 members supported by a 1:1.5 Sherpa ratio leaving about 250 more people to summit. Thus 240 of the 361 foreigners who received a permit will summit, or 75%, which is about normal for these days.

Thankfully, no deaths or rescues were reported once again, but we may still learn of difficulties. Overall, the weather was ideal, with low winds and temperatures around 0F/-20C. Tonight should be the same.

After a strong first day for multiple commercial summits, we move into what could be the largest this season. I estimate there were well over 100 total summits made up of 40 members supported by 73 Sherpas. There were no deaths or rescues reported, but we may still learn of difficulties. Overall, the weather was ideal, with low winds and temperatures around 0F/-20C. Tonight should be the same.