New on www.alanarnette.com

January 1st, 2010

When I started my website almost a decade ago, my vision was to simply share my experiences through introspective and candid reporting. That has not changed however the site has evolved over the years so let’s take a brief look back before we look forward.

All of my 16+ big climbs including Denali, Aconcagua and the 3 to Everest had extensive coverage that included live dispatches, gear lists, an FAQ page plus an extensive collection of pictures presented in a gallery format with a sideshow presentation. Every Colorado 14er summit has it’s own page – 52 at this point.

Over time, I added pages on Read the rest of this entry »

Aerogel – Should Geese Start Celebrating?

January 31st, 2010

Manufacturers of all types are always looking for that next great breakthrough. Think: Gortex, Teflon and that famous exchange from The Graduate:

Mr. McGuire: I want to say one word to you. Just one word.
Benjamin: Yes, sir.
Mr. McGuire: Are you listening?
Benjamin: Yes, I am.
Mr. McGuire: Plastics.

Now another breakthrough is hitting the consumer outdoor products market based on a man-made material called aerogel. It is lighter than air in its pure form, warmer than down, can be compressed, is breathable and is virtually unbreakable. It keeps hots things hot and cold things cold – How does it do it?

Aerogel

Aerogel

There seems to be no simple or short answer to what is an aerogel. Most text describe a manufacturing process where liquids are replaced with air involving a polymerization process. Being simple,  I like to think of aerogel as a tiny, as in microscopic, layer of bubble wrap; which I am sure makes scientists and engineers cringe.

First mentioned in a paper published in the journal, Nature, in 1931, scientist recognized an opportunity to improve insulation material. Monsanto initially used it in napalm and cigarettes in the 1940’s but it was primarily used as a flattening agent in paint and varnishes.

Monsanto abandoned its use in the 1970’s. It was expensive and difficult to manufacture according to the website areogel.org . One challenge was that exposure to a significant amount of aerogel dust created serious respiratory issues.

Aerogel can be manufactured from many base materials including silca, carbon, copper, gelatin and more exotic combination’s. The secret is a final product that is 98% air – an excellent insulator. We know that air pockets in feathers trap warmth thus providing insulation, however feathers need loft or thickness to function well. Also, feathers are bulky (or puffy in a jacket) and require a serious commitment from the donor.

Aerogel Jacket

Aerogel Jacket

Enter NASA. Think spacesuit. They needed superior insulation for astronauts and space probes. Oh cost was a minor issue. In 1993, Aspen Systems, of Marlborough, Massachusetts, secured a contract from NASA to develop an aerogel manufacturing process.

Soon, Cryogel®, was used in launch vehicles, Space Shuttle upgrades, interplanetary propulsion, and life support equipment. Now called Spaceloft™, gloves designed for the Mars mission will use aerogels.

Aspen Aerogels, a spinoff company, was tasked with commercializing aerogels and soon got a handle on the difficult manufacturing problems and expanded the product line into window and skylight insulation, non-flammable building insulation, and inexpensive firewall insulation that will withstand fires in homes and buildings. And outdoor clothing. It was successfully tested on an Antarctic expedition.

The performance of the material is astounding providing protection from – 200°C to + 635°C. A 3 mm thick layer of aerogel can protect the human body even at temperatures below -50°C. Read the rest of this entry »

Ptarmigans – Nature’s Perfect Camouflage

January 23rd, 2010
Ptarmigans in the Summer

Ptarmigans in the Summer

I love to climb or more specifically to be out in nature. This past week, I took a long climb to almost 13,000′ on Longs Peak in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. It was a rare winter day with mild temps in the high teens and virtually no wind – unheard of for Longs in January.

The scenery of the snow covered Continental Divide was stunning as was the lightly peppered Diamond on Longs’ East Face. I was completely alone for the majority of the day. I had started just before sunrise and enjoyed watching the sun light up the Colorado eastern plains.

But it was a few minutes of a six hour day that sticks in my memory.

I have climbed on Longs over 50 times, probably more like 70 at this point. And I have come to know a small family who lives there throughout the year. They are hard to spot in the summer and almost impossible to see in the winter. They sport a natural camouflage that is awe-inspiring to even the most skeptical of nature’s mysteries.

Ptarmigans in the Summer

Ptarmigans in the Summer

The ptarmigan family is smart, they look like rocks in the summer and snow in the winter. They stay still unless threatened by an impending step. They are quiet as the wind and still as a leaf. The only clue that they are alive and not a rock, are the black specks that mark the tips of their beak and their sharp eyes. Read the rest of this entry »

Partners supporting Alzheimer’s Research

January 20th, 2010

You can now support Alzheimer’s research through purchasing products you might already buy. I am so pleased to announce that Body Results and Action Wipes will now donate a percentage of each noted sale to the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund.

I have has teamed up with outdoor conditioning coaches Courtenay and Doug Schurman at Body Results, a Seattle-based company that focuses on wilderness sports conditioning. Also with Martha Van Inwegen of Life Elements with the Action Wipes product line for athletes.

Cure Alzheimer’s Fund

The Cure Alzheimer’s Fund use 100% of all donations to fund breakthrough research. None of your donation goes to overheard since the Fund is totally supported by three families who have first hand experience with Alzheimer’s. Please read more on their website and please make a donation today.

Body Results

WebTrainer provides a personalized exercise program including cardiovascular, strength, flexibility and sport specific training, a personalized training schedule and regular interactions with an Outdoor Conditioning Coach. Each program is overseen by one of the Outdoor Sports Conditioning Experts, Courtenay or Doug Schurman. There are three levels of service you can choose from depending on what best fits your needs. Please read more on their website

Action Wipes

A company created in 2005 with the idea of developing cool, natural products for the entire family. Action Wipes are a full body sized wet wipe that are reusable and made with soothing natural ingredients that are safe for the whole family and the whole planet. Please read more on their website

Please make a purchase from these companies today and tell your fiends. I fully endorse their products.

Climb On!

Alan

Support Haiti Relief

January 14th, 2010

Those who want to make an immediate contribution, there is a quick and easy way to do so. By texting “HAITI” to “90999″ a donation of $10 will be made to the Red Cross and charged to your cell phone bill.

Exercise Wards off Alzheimer’s

January 13th, 2010
Exercise Staves off Alzheimer's

Exercise Staves off Alzheimer's

You may wonder why I link mountain climbing with Alzheimer’s. My simple answer is that a healthy body =  a healthy mind. You don’t have to climb Mt. Everest, a short amount of daily exercise will do the trick.

A new study from the famed Mayo Clinic proves the point:

Those who said they did moderate exercise — such as swimming, brisk walking, yoga, aerobics or strength training — during midlife were 39% less likely to have mild cognitive impairment, while those who did moderate exercise later in life were 32% less likely to have the condition.

The Mayo team said exercise may guard against mild cognitive impairment through production of nerve-protecting compounds, increased blood flow to the brain, improved development and survival of neurons, and decreased risk of heart and blood vessel diseases.

The second study included 33 adults, average age 70, with mild cognitive impairment. Some were randomly assigned to do high-intensity aerobics for 45 to 60 minutes a day, four days a week. Others were put in a control group that had the same workout schedule, but did stretching exercises and kept their heart rate low.

After six months, the patients who did high-intensity aerobic exercise had improved cognitive function compared to those in the control group. The beneficial effects were more pronounced in women than in men, possibly because the body’s use of and production of insulin, glucose and the stress hormone cortisol differed in women and men.

In other Alzheimer’s news, CBS featured Alzheimer’s on their January 12th Evening News broadcast. Read the rest of this entry »

Climbing Round Up

January 8th, 2010

A brief update on the mid-winter climbing season. The Southern Hemisphere is in focus with Mts Kilimanjaro, Vinson and Aconcagua receiving the usual attention. Thus far it has been a safe season albeit with death.

The commercial outfitters are in full swing with multiple expeditions to these three of the seven summits. Word has it they are sold out and doing well. The local outfitters are also doing well reporting good business. This is impressive given the world economy. Somehow climbers always find a way to climb.

Aconcagua

After a difficult start for many teams including an early season death, most are now report the normal high winds on the highest peak outside the Himalaya. Alpine Ascents Inc (AAI) has a steady steam of reports from the eight teams thus far. Jagged Globe had this report:

The team had experienced pretty difficult weather conditions in Argentina also, with Aconcagua reportedly very cold indeed. Stories of other teams where all members got frostbite sound unbelievable, but sadly are true. This is not a mountain to underestimate when it comes to your preparation and clothing.

The season goes into late February so stay safe everyone.
Kilimanjaro

Peak Freaks reports more success on the highest stand-alone mountain on earth with a New Year’s Day summit by their team. Currently a unique effort is on Kilimanjaro to highlight the need for clean water. The Summit on the Summit team include celebrities such as Read the rest of this entry »

Everest: Beyond the Limit online

January 7th, 2010

If you missed Everest:Beyond the Limit Season 3 (2009) you can watch all 5 episodes online for free http://tinyurl.com/yeyav9o

Update: it seems it is not available online in Europe.