Lhotse – the Other Everest

Every Everest climber, actual or armchair, recognizes the term “Lhotse Face” as a difficult section leading to the Death Zone at 8,000 meters. What some people often miss is that the Face is part of the 4th highest mountain on Earth, Lhotse standing 27,940 feet or 8516 meters. Sitting in the fake Starbucks in Lukla after my successful Everest summit, I overheard a middle-aged climber talking to a group of trekkers, ” I just summited Lhotse, it is a lot harder than Everest.” The group began to grill him on the details and he rewarded them with tales of “real” continue reading

Everest 2012:: Interview with Cian O’Brolchain

This interview with Cian O’Brolchain is part of an ongoing series of interviews I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who have full time jobs, full time families in many cases and climb for the love of climb. Please send me your suggestion for an interview. Now here’s Cian: So what does professional tennis have to do with mountain climbing? Well, a lot it appears from my conversation with now retried Irish tennis professional Cian O’Brolchain. I first met Cian on Denali last summer. We shared continue reading

Everest 2012 Interview with the Axe

This interview with Grant Rawlinson is part of an ongoing series of interviews I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who have full time jobs, full time families in many cases and climb for the love of climb. Please send me your suggestion for an interview. Now here’s Grant: Climbing Everest is never easy. Sometimes you hear people dismiss a route as a Tourist Route; or pay your $65,000 then tie yourself to a Sherpa and get hauled to the summit. I respectfully disagree and suggest continue reading

Everest Base Camp – Himex Style

I’ve been in many base camps but I knew I was somewhere special when I was told “… and this is our garbage tent.” Welcome to Everest Base Camp, Russell Brice style. In 2011 while climbing Everest, I spent the afternoon with Brice getting to know this man and how he runs his expedition base camps. Let’s just say, it’s different. Most expeditions will promote their excellent base camp facilities and talk of gourmet food, individual tents, and clean kitchens. Today, this is the ante to play the game and let me say from the start that many operators take continue reading

Everest 2012: Interview with Bill Burke

This interview with Bill Burke is part of an ongoing series of interviews I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who have full time jobs, full time families in many cases and climb for the love of climb. Please send me your suggestion for an interview. Now here’s Bill: I have come to know and admire one Everest climber for several years now, Bill Burke. He epitomizes determination and optimism like few other climbers. Here are some stats: 69-years old, has been to Everest every year continue reading

Everest 2012: The Summit Routes

Along with my annual coverage of Everest,  I always update information on the climbing routes on Everest. I am surprised that there is always something new. For Everest 2012 season, I want to discuss an acclimatization technique that is becoming more common on Nepal expeditions,  the climb of nearby Lobuche Peak. Lobuche Acclimatization Lobuche is often classified as a Trekking peak due to the lack of technical difficulty and the relatively mild altitude;  it is “only” 20,075ft/6119m . Teams like to use Lobuche for acclimatization because the summit is the same altitude as Camp 1 and it eliminates at least one continue reading

Communicating from Everest – 2012 Update

I receive many questions on how I did my live dispatches for the 7 Summits so I put together this short tutorial for anyone wanting to communicate during an expedition from anywhere on our planet. While staying in touch is mandatory and part of an expedition for me, some people want to get away from it all and escape the modern noise that comes with 24 by 7 communications. If that is your case, then take a sat phone for safety but don’t use it unless there is an emergency! Tell everyone that no news is good news and you continue reading

Words: 2011

In the last days of 2011, I wanted to write about my last 12 months of climbing mountains to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer’s, but I couldn’t find the words. The emotions and gratitude are immense. I could only come up with the following in hopes it expresses my feeling to everyone who made a donation, everyone who followed the journey and to everyone impacted by Alzheimer’s. And we are not finished. I climbed mountains in 2011. Not for summits but for a message. Words are what we have. What we use. A collection of letters struggling to continue reading