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7 responses

  1. Mark Horrell
    January 15, 2012

    Wow, thanks Alan, for an absolutely brilliant article, well researched and full of useful facts, the best of its type I’ve come across. I’m going to be climbing from the north side with Altitude Junkies this year, so was particularly interested in your summit day (or night as you aptly refer to it!) route descriptions.

    I expect many people reading this will focus on the death rates, but you make a very valid point at the end of this section when you point out that the majority of these are independent climbers on shared permits. I wonder what the figures are for those on well-supported commercial expeditions. I expect they would be more reassuring for any friends and family reading.

    Thanks once again – I shall be coming back and re-reading this over the next couple of months, and most of all congratulations on your success last year!

    • Alan Arnette
      January 15, 2012

      Thanks Mark for your comments. Deaths have occurred across the board from solo to budget to high-end companies. Often climbers themselves don’t know about a problem until it is too late, sadly. You are climbing with a great team with Phil. Looking forward to how the north goes this year. And yes, be safe.

  2. Kat
    January 10, 2012

    Hi, Alan! What a great post! You’ve pulled together some interesting comparative facts about the north/south routes; this is the first time I’ve seen actual numbers of (unfortunate) deaths on both sides of the mountain. One thing’s for sure: a person seems to have a hell of a better chance of climbing Everest with a Sherpa. Those guys are amazing. I have only one question. Has a female Sherpa ever been employed on a climb?

    Oops, I have another question that you’ll probably answer in another post: Are you attempting Denali this year?


    • Alan Arnette
      January 11, 2012

      Thanks Kat for your comments. Yes, there have been all women Sherpai teams climb and also work as climbing Sherpas throughout the years. But mostly, the Sherpas climbers who work for expeditions are men with the women staying home with the children and running tea houses. Proof once again women are smarter than men! 🙂 Yes, looking at Denali in June, hard headed aren’t I?

  3. Jason Cook
    January 10, 2012

    I really liked this post because of the info givin.Good history of stats on climbs.I learn a lot about everest from you Alan.

  4. Lori Schneider
    January 10, 2012

    Excited to follow your excellent Everest coverage again this year Alan. I just reposted the first part of your story on the Empowerment Through Adventure Facebook page, and will continue to pass along your link and coverage. Thanks for helping the Everest junkies climb vicariously through your words. -Lori

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