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May 082014
 
Everest North ABC

Everest North ABC. courtesy of Bill Burke

Right on schedule, s the teams on the north side of Everest are completing their acclimatization rotations and looking at potential summit dates. Thus far, the season is going very smoothly on that side.

Bill Burke, at age 72, is climbing with Asian Trekking and posting regular audio updates. In today’s dispatch he noted they had competed their rotations and were going to the Tibetan village of Tingri for a little rest. He also said they were looking at a potential summit window of May 17 -19.

I heard from Norwegian, Knut Grotli with Kari Kobler’s group. They are back at the Chinese Base camp after completing their acclimatization to the North Col. The Maltese climbers have also completed their acclimatization schedule and are back at CBC.

Another team includes Phillipe Hullaert from, France. He notes that on his team is Ralf Dujmovits who’s trying to summit without O’s. Dujmovirs is the very well known German mountaineer and the first German to climb the 14 8000m mountains. Dujmovirs gain famed with his 2012 picture of th line of climbers up the Lhotse face and his further comments on what Everest had become. This from Outside in 2013:

Being on Everest on the Tibetan normal route, people get no feeling for what it means to be on a lonely route, on an eight thousand meter peak, on your own, without all these crowds. The climbers on Everest are trying to achieve something that doesn’t exist any longer—at least on Everest.

Of course Ueli Steck had a bad experience in 2013 but famously ended one interview with

No, I’m not done with Nepal. It’s the wrong moment to ask me that. I lost something I really love in my life. It’s done. I’m not saying I’m never coming back, but give me time. I need to figure it out. There are many other mountains I can climb. Everest is Everest, and Everest lost a lot, but it’s still the highest mountain in the world.

It seems that Everest still has an attraction even after a bad experience for amateurs and professionals alike.

South Update

Eric Simonson, IMG reports,  posted their final update for Everest 2014 from the Nepal side:

Ang Jangbu also reports that up at Everest Base Camp, the Icefall doctors are now bringing down the ladders and ropes from the Icefall, so there will be no further climbing. For all of you Everest history buffs out there, I believe that this is the first season since 1986 that nobody climbed Mt. Everest from the Nepal Side during the spring climbing season.

One independent climber is at EBC insisting on climbing solo, without ladders to Lhotse as of May 7th.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

  45 Responses to “Everest 2014: North Teams Target Summit Date”

  1.  

    Removed per author’s request.

    •  

      Ellen I completely understand your feelings and what comes across more is not that you are frustrated and bitter that you did not summit but that you are hurt, shocked and saddened by the terrible tragedy. You witnessed first hand the terrible tragedy and it is obviously still raw. I agree with you in respect to Cleo. I wish her safety but I deplore her actions.

  2.  

    Its been interesting to see the backlash since I highlighted that the south was not fully closed and she was still there. No one was reporting this. Most of the negativity seems to be coming from folk who were there and packed it in and left. That has to have been a hard decision and I cant imagine the feeling of loss felt both for their personal goals and the tradegy. But I would have imagined people would have championed her pioneering spirt. Not the case it seems. And no I wasnt there. I count myself lucky not to have gone to Everest this year by all accounts. Its some way off for me. I am still earning my stripes but that shouldnt preclude me from taking part in a discussion on the subject should it? If that was the case pretty much no one would have the ability to talk about it. In regards to Cleo. Best direct ur questions directly to her and I am sure she would be happy to answer if she has comms.

  3.  

    Alot of good points above. In regards to the sherpas owning the ladders. That I am sure is right. They were also paid to put them there. My understanding is Cleo (she said this not me) had agreed with them to leave them so she could use them. Then they removed them. Does some of the climbing fee not go to the placing of these ladders and what was to be achieved by removing them? I totally understand and agree with much of what you say but in her words it was done to stop her. So she took a helicopter. So what. Great. Using her brain. I also totally understand there will be a backlash to this and I see both points of view on this. But surely she should be given a chance if she wants to try? Why not?. The answer to the question did cleo help. I dont know but I know and have seen that the community have rallied around the Sherpas. Which is great and I hope it gives them better pay and conditions. Respect is without saying.

    •  

      Cleo and all the other foreign climbers are but guests of Nepal and the Sherpas. They have their rules, customs and boundaries and, while strangers to the country might not agree with them, they should at the very least respect them. Correct me if I am wrong but she took a helicopter without bothering to obtain permissions, perhaps because she knew that it would not be granted. A little high handed you might say. She dismisses the mountain as tame. It wasn’t so tame when but for help from fellow climbers and sherpas she would have died a couple of years ago. From what I am interpreting from her words and actions this is purely about her ego. What happens if, god forbid, she has another accident. Will she be calling for others to come and get her again. I think you need to back up and remember the reason there is no climbing from the south this year. 16 people are dead and yes isn’t it great that people are rallying around the sherpas. I will save all my respect for them rather than a stupid woman who is acting like a petulant child and is going to get her only way whatever the cost.

  4.  

    Hmm, I say good luck Cleo! Ellen I can understand your anger and frustration, but don’t be bitter, its not pleasant. The mountain will be there for next time, don’t stress about it as much, it was out of your control.. With regard to Cleo ‘not climbing’ because she used her initiative to blag a flight into the western cwn, respect to her, shes waited and waited there, determined and is making it happen herself..I would say, that despite ‘ no climbing comment’ climbing on her own, without O2, without sherpa support, without fixed rope, solo climbing…Her summiting in those conditions, would mean more than anyone walking and jumaring up the fixed ropes, with 1 on 1 Sherpa support all the way up, shes trying to climb it how everyone should! Shes making a point, and we should all wish her the best of luck.

  5.  

    Removed per author’s request.

  6.  

    Sean, Sherpas remove their ladders (I am intentionally using the term “their” since they brought the ladders themselves) not because they want to be vindictive, but because they want to use those ladders again the following season. Please remember that no one is being prevented or stopped from climbing Everest. If Cleo wants to climb Everest, no one is stopping her, and if she can get her own ladders and set her own ropes, good for her. As I said, no one is preventing her.

  7.  

    Removed per author’s request.

  8.  

    Ellen. I’m very sorry your expedition didn’t work out. It’s not my fault. Please Stop being presumtious and condescending (sorry but that’s how it sounds to me). You’re not the only one to have experienced tragedy and bad situations in remote places. I did not stand in your shoes on that mountain nor do I pretend to do so. I do not pretend to understand what you felt in any way. 90% of the people who have discussed this situation have the information second hand from those that were there. I am fully aware of the aggression and threats. Its also public knowledge but everyone is treading carefully on this subject. I am sorry you suffered this as well. I am very sympathetic to what you experienced. Cleo is a serous female high altitude climber with serious experience. She shuns publicity. What is occurring here is exactly a reaction to the threats and bullying received? She is making a point that she will not be coerced in this manner. She has stated this herself a few days ago. She doesn’t need to summit Everest as she has already done it. So hence my view on it is she is making a point. She was in the camp with you and is pretty straight about her feelings last we conversed. You of course have a valid point re the helicopter. But if you have an obstacle to over come and that is the only way then perhaps it’s ok? I don’t know. I am sure it will be debated forever. I cant really say more than that. But I follow with interest what she will do next.

  9.  

    Ellen. I’m very sorry your expedition didn’t work out. It’s not my fault. Please Stop being presumtious and condescending (sorry but that’s how it sounds to me). You’re not the only one to have experienced tragedy and bad situations in remote places. I did not stand in your shoes on that mountain nor do I pretend to do so. I do not pretend to understand what you felt in any way. 90% of the people who have discussed this situation have the information second hand from those that were there. I am fully aware of the aggression and threats. Its also public knowledge but everyone is treading carefully on this subject. I am sorry you suffered this as well. I am very sympathetic to what you experienced. Cleo is a serous female high altitude climber with serious experience. She shuns publicity. What is occurring here is exactly a reaction to the threats and bullying received? She is making a point that she will not be coerced in this manner. She has stated this herself a few days ago. She doesn’t need to summit Everest as she has already done it. So hence my view on it is she is making a point. She was in the camp with you and is pretty straight about her feelings last we conversed. You of course have a valid point re the helicopter. But if you have an obstacle to over come and that is the only way then perhaps it’s ok? I don’t know. I am sure it will be debated forever. I cant really say more than that. But I follow with interest what she will do next.

  10.  

    Removed per authors request

    •  

      Ellen your negativity is really taking away from the discussion here. If you have something to add, some relevant first hand account you want to share, etc, great, do it. Otherwise, keep your peace and let others share their second hand info.

      Also, getting helicoptered into WC doesn’t make it any less of a climb. As a matter of fact, it will likely become a norm moving forward.

  11.  

    Removed per authors request

  12.  

    Well Ellen in the same vain why would I need to hear it from you then. Its all second hand. I wasnt there for sure but I have a pretty objective view based on all the reports that came out. Its a personal experience for you for sure. I dont get your problem with Cleo. She sur doesnt come across as a people person but I like her spirit. Anyway she stayed.

  13.  

    Well Ellen in the same vain why would I need to hear it from you then. Its all second hand. I wasnt there for sure but I have a pretty objective view based on all the reports that came out. Its a personal experience for you for sure. I dont get your problem with Cleo. She sur doesnt come across as a people person but I like her spirit. Anyway she stayed.

  14.  

    Removed per authors request

  15.  

    Removed per authors request

  16.  

    Ellen I do. Many of my friends were there as well I am well informed. Why did you not stay then? I suppose one should not fly to union glacier then?

  17.  

    Ellen I do. Many of my friends were there as well I am well informed. Why did you not stay then? I suppose one should not fly to union glacier then?

  18.  

    Removed per authors request

  19.  

    Sean, I was there as well….Ready to go thru the icefall when ladders were still in place. I had already made one trip thru the icefall prior to the tragedy. YOU are misinformed and have NO idea about what happened and what politics were involved. Happy to chat at any time to explain the reality of this climbing situation from a climber’s perspective. Cheers.

  20.  

    Ellen. You are misinformed. Cleo was ready to go through the ice fall when the ladders were there. Read her blog. She was alone and prepared. She was told they would be left in place but she would not be helped. Then they were removed. Thats a vindictive act. Good on her I say. She has nothing to prove but is making a point. So Ellen you let it go and let here get on with it what ever way she can. I dont get ur negativity. Too much politics here.

  21.  

    Ellen. You are misinformed. Cleo was ready to go through the ice fall when the ladders were there. Read her blog. She was alone and prepared. She was told they would be left in place but she would not be helped. Then they were removed. Thats a vindictive act. Good on her I say. She has nothing to prove but is making a point. So Ellen you let it go and let here get on with it what ever way she can. I dont get ur negativity. Too much politics here.

  22.  

    Ladders are already out. Not sure what the ‘principle” is, Sean. Let it go.

  23.  

    Ladders are already out. Not sure what the ‘principle” is, Sean. Let it go.

  24.  

    will if you will remove the ladders what is a lady supposed to do. LOL. At any rate she has summited everest already so I think this is a matter of principle for her.

  25.  

    So if these women helicopter into the Western Cwn,they are not actually climbing. Be done, Cleo. Let the mtn rest and move on for the future. This is not something to be proud of.

  26.  

    Two women climbers refuse to give up. One reported to have helicoptered onto Western Cwm without permission. http://thehimalayantimes.com/fullNews.php?headline=Two+women+in+bid+to+scale+Everest%26sbquo%3B+Lhotse&NewsID=414409

  27.  

    I have just finished Ranulph Fiennes book called “Cold”. Its really worth a read. What he went through on both Antarctic and Antartica, alone for weeks as well, sawing off the tips of his fingers and all sorts of terrible things. He made Everest Summit as well, on the third attempt – in his early 60s. What a guy.

  28.  

    I heard a solo South climber died this past week. Any truth to that report? Believe it was one of the Rippels that reported…

    •  

      The report was never verified and I assume was incorrect. Overall there are 17 deaths on Everest, all Sherpa, all south side thus far in 2014.

  29.  

    “Many people leave the north base camp, happy to be leaving ”
    they shouldn’t be there in the first place IMO…!! how i wish to drive during an F1 race with others … but unfortunately & wisely its not allowed… but wait… no F1 so what.. we have everest for everyone…!! 😀

  30.  

    Alan,
    Are you going to blog about your preparations for K2? How are you training? Testing new equipment? Team makeup? I’d be interested in any aspect of your adventure!

  31.  

    I love these updates! I’m very interested in all mountaineering. You guys are awesome!

  32.  

    Like many of the climbers my interest in Everest got a bit of a ‘downer’ after all the disappointments this season.I need not have worried because as usual there was this chap who tells us all to ‘ Climb On !. Thanks again Alan for bringing it all back to life by this report. I am now up there with good old Bill and all the rest of the fraternity, enjoying their climb on the North. How sad it would have been if this armchair climber had missed the excitement and emotions going on as the 2014 season unfolds.Thank you so much Alan. Cheers Kate

  33.  

    Todd, as usual no easy answer. The north camps are higher thus you spend less time there and do fewer rotations. But they are farther apart than on the South and you don’t go through the Icefall. The base camp on the South is much, much better with less wind and dirt. Many people leave the north base camp, happy to be leaving … if that is any hint 🙂

  34.  

    Rumour has it that Jagged Globe’s top dog Sherpa Pasang Tenzing was one of the agitators in the threats and intimidation. I wonder if it’s members are aware that $59,000 has helped pay one of the troublemakers?

    •  

      That is certainly what I heard too. Further, I understand that he pushed hard to end climbing on Manaslu in 2012 after the avy there. This needs to be actively investigated and he needs to employment in a new industry if true.

      •  

        Shocking. Hope these cretins are nowhere near Everest next season…

      •  

        Yes robert… Pasang Tenzing is one of the 7 Summiter brothers – the youngest sibling – I have wanted to make a documentary film about for 7 years now (thechooyuproject)
        I cancelled this project partly because of his militantist. Ask Russ Brice about the guy on Manaslu 2012, yes… I am already half-way in a book on this whole mess.
        Problem is that PTS is an assitant guide with JG, an isntructor with the NMA, a UIAGM guide, etc…

  35.  

    Your preference Alan- acclimate on the North or South? Which would you prefer?

  36.  

    These updates are so appreciated!

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