I’ve learned to never say never when following Himalayan climbs. Several teams who left the mountain may be looking back with questions after others stayed, leveraged the previous work and went on to summit Manaslu, 54 out of the 106 foreigners with permits made the summit along with another 29 Sherpas.
Perhaps with more incentive to prove Nepal is safe for mountaineering, most the teams that summited Manaslu were Nepali operated teams while the Western owned teams felt it was too risky to continue.
And Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki, on Everest is saying he will give it another try.
Manaslu – Summits for the
The Sherpas from Himex and Altitude Junkies worked hard for several weeks to put in the route to Camp 3 before abandoning the expeditions based on deep snow, soft snow bridges, crevasses and avalanche danger. But the route was in through the crux.
Himex, Altitude Junkies and Adventure Consultants leaders made the decision the mountain was not safe and 38 returned to Kathmandu. One Himex Sherpa fell into a crevasse, was rescued but not seriously injured.
However other teams stayed taking the risk and it paid off. Seven Summits International, out of Nepal, went on to put two separate teams on the summit within 24 hours totaling 27 . From their Facebook page:
“Seven Summit Treks Mt.Manaslu International expedition Team” On 30th September 2015, once again summit Mt. Manaslu 8163m Successfully. It’s the 1st Summit success over above 8000m mountain after the recent destructive earthquake in Nepal. Since we had a lager team, we had decided to break down the team into 2 Group for summit push.This is Summit success by our 1st Team –9 Members and 6 Climbing Sherpa Guide in total 15 Person. As reported by Chhang Dawa Sherpa, team Manager and director of Seven Summit Treks, Mr. Santiago Quintero from Ecuador, Victor Hugo Rimac from Peru, Daniel Stuart Trevena from Australia, Cheji Norbu Sherpa from Nepal, Mingma Thenduk Sherpa from Nepal and more other team members summit Mt. Manaslu.
Seven summit international manaslu expedition 2015 second team summit manaslu-8163m today at 5:00am congratulation to for wholewww.sevensummittreks.com team 100% succes
Other teams with Manaslu success included Ascent Himalaya, Thamserku Trekking, Active Holiday Nepal Treks, and Himalayan Guides Nepal Treks according to this report in the Himalayan Times. SummitClimb put 5 on the summit, and Amical out of Germany with 5 summiteers were only Western owned operators to summit this season.
Guy Cotter, Adventure Consultants, summed up his decision:
There are several teams poised to make a summit attempt in the next few days, and perhaps, if they are lucky, they may avoid the hazards and achieve success. But for us, the conditions surpass the threshold that we perceive is acceptable risk and hence we will make a humble departure from the mountain for this season. This isn’t an ‘easy’ decision for us but it feels like the right one, even if it does mean failure in reaching the summit.
Makalu – Over
Adrian Ballinger tweeted that their attempt to be the first to ski from the summit of Makalu was over.:
Push is over and no summit reached. We did ski from a new high point. And everyone safe after some very real avys above 8k.
Dhaulagiri – Climbing
A small team lead by French Alpinist Yannick Graziani is moving up on Dhaulagiri (26794’/8167m) on their acclimatization rotations.
Everest – Another Attempt
Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki, is saying he will try for the summit again this weekend. He turned back around 7700 meters due to deep snow a few days ago He will be better acclimatized this time but the snow conditions will most likely be the same. He intends to start his summit push from Camp 3 around 7700 meters rather than the traditional 8000m at the South Col.
He climbs alone without using supplemental oxygen. He is on his fifth attempt to summit Everest, he lost nine of his finger tips in 2012 on an attempt via the west Ridge. He posted on his Facebook:
After descending to the base camp, I’m resting right now. Because I had 1 meal a day and spent 3 days in higher altitude than 7500m, I lost some weight and got bad skin condition, which is a correct reaction of my body to the altitude that human cannot live in.
But my heart keeps beating, and I’m ready to climb again to the summit of Everest. I’m going to rest a few days in the base camp and start climbing again.
I was a little below the south col (7900m) but decided to descend because deep snow clung up to my lower back. Normally, climbers go up to south col through Lhotse Face, but I climbed from left area of the route like I did in 2011.
It is because I felt risk of avalanche in Lhotse Face. The route I climbed in left had much deeper snow but less risk of avalanche. Also, I will be able to lower altitude quicker when I descend. There is deep snow, but it allowed me to pitch a tent in stable position.
When I reach camp 4 next time, I will leave the luggage to my tent and climb up to south col to make a route and come back to the tent. Then the next day, I’ll start summit push from the camp 4.
The reason why I don’t set a tent up in the south col is because it’s hard to climb in deep snow having tent without oxygen tank. Also, it’s too much burden to my body to stay in 7900m of south col after reaching the summit.
I think it’s better for me to pitch a tent at 7600m and climb with light luggage and descend to lower altitude.
After I have good rest, I’ll start climbing again.
Best of luck to him.
Memories are Everything