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May 212019

Update 3: IMG reports summits:

Ms. Daphne de Jong Netherlands
Sonam Tashi Sherpa Nepal
Ms. Fatima Deryan Republic of Lebanon
Ang Karma Sherpa Nepal
Kami Sherpa Nepal
Mr. Julien Andre Maurice Laurent France
Mingma Dorjee Sherpa Nepal
Mr. Ralph Kisso Republic of Lebanon
Sonam Dorjee Sherpa Nepal
Thunang Lhomi Nepal
Mr. Ole Petter Thunes Norway
Pasang Kami Sherpa Nepal
Sona Chhiri Sherpa Nepal
Ms. Charlotte Adrienne Austin USA
Phinjo Dorji Sherpa Nepal
Mr. Mark Ryan Ballard Canada
Fura Gyalzen Sherpa Nepal
Mr. Adam Michael Clark USA
Jangbu Sherpa Nepal


What we are seeing are the winds at different velocities at different altitudes.

Update 2: from Alpenglow:  “From 27,000 feet 😬😬😬 Once again, just us and the rope fixers here. First North Side summits tomorrow????

Update 1: from Summit Climb on the Tibet side: May 22 – This is David O’Brien. We’re up at camp 2 it was very very windy getting here , the wind was due to ease off last night but remained persistent. It has to ease off today to allow the rope fixers time to complete the last section of ropes before teams head for the summit from camp 3 later today . We’re all doing well but are looking forward to lower winds

Update: As expected the first summits reported were from CTSS and Oswaldo Freire guiding a private client. I climbed with Ossie in January in Ecuador and he is the real deal.


This will be another tiny window, only May 22 and 23 and perhaps into the 24th. But reports are coming in from both sides that the winds have finally dropped. This wind forecast from Meteoexploration tells the tale: A two day window now and maybe a day and half early next week.

Everest 2019 May Winds

Wave 4 Underway from Nepal Side

Jagged Globe is underway expecting to summit Wednesday morning May 22:

The Everest team are about to leave the South Col at 1930 local time. David expects it to be a long summit day (his InReach most likely won’t have enough battery for the entire climb). Teams have been leaving the South Col every hour since 1500hrs. There could be as many as 250 people going for the summit tonight.

IMG is also headed up:

Now, the team has departed for the summit, leaving the Col a bit after 8pm Nepal time. We don’t expect to hear from them again until they reach the Balcony which normally takes 4-5 hours. Up on the Col, Phunuru reports some wind, but said that it was manageable. The forecast is for the winds to continue to decrease as the night continues, and for the next couple days to be good weather.

and updated a few hours later:

Greg called from Base Camp to report that everything was going well for the climbers, and that they are all now above the Balcony. Sounds like the wind has dropped way down, and that it’s gorgeous with the recently full moon illuminating the mountain.

CTSS has a team on the push:

Our first Summit Wave is off and departing the South Col now (including the IFMGA Sherpa team, Private IFMGA Sherpa climbers & Personal Sherpa climbers as well as Private Team Fahad and Guide Ossy & Everest/Lhotse Combo Climber Mariam) they’ll climb through the night tonight, hoping to make the summit early tomorrow morning.

and updated later:

Private Team Fahad with Guide Ossy are now at the South Summit (28,500ft | 8,534m)  and climbing strongly with the rest of the teams coming up not far behind them. Moving well in good conditions up there. From here, it’s only a few hours up past the Hillary Step and onto the Top of the World…

The Nepali guide company Kaitu Expedition is also on their push with 13 Chinese climbers supported by 17 Sherpas. If you wonder what that might look like, they posted a really nice video of the group leaving base camp on the 17th. This one made me smile with appreciation.


Those were who were planning to move to the South Col today for a Thursday, May 23 summit include:

  • Adventure Consultants
  • Benegas Brothers
  • Dreamers Destination
  • Friends of the Himalaya
  • Madison Mountaineering
  • Mountain Professionals
  • Pioneer Adventures
  • IMG second team
  • Second HST/Myrmidon team

Tibet – No Winds!

Jake Norton climbing with the Alpenglow team continues to give us insightful posts with stunning images. From late on Tuesday with around 11 pm Tibet time:

Seems like perhaps Mother Nature is giving us some better options finally. Our team of 6 made it in great time and style today to 8300m Camp VI (aka Camp 3). I don’t think there’s a more beautiful camp in the world, higher than all but 5 mountains, and perched high on the north face. To the west, it’s a true top of the world view looking at Cho Oyu, Gyanchung Kang, Pumori, Lingtren, Melungtse, Shishapangma, and so many more. Spinning around, you see the view in this photo: captivating, engrossing, stunning, and more than a bit intimidating. This photo shows the First, Second, and Third steps along the Northeast Ridge and the Summit Pyramid.
I can never not imagine what this view must have looked like 95 years ago when George Mallory and Andrew Irvine saw it. I’d hazard to guess a combination of enthralling and abjectly terrifying. Which way would they go? Follow the Ridge as Mallory indicated, taking chances with the Second Step? Or try the route Norton and Somervell attempted 4 days before, below the Step to the Norton Couloir? If it were me, I’d take my chances with the Step, as the terrain beyond the Couloir has never looked anything but atrocious.
Regardless of where they went and how high they got, the simply fact that they were here – in wool and tweed and hobnails – is nothing short of amazing. I’m cold in a down suit, and I’ve climbed much of their possible route with no fixed lines but modern gear, and still got quite nervous at times. My hat is permanently off for all the pre-World War II climbers.

Northeast Ridge Everest 2019. Courtesy of Jake Norton


The rope team is at 27,000-feet/8230-meters along with the Alpenglow Team leading the push to the summit in good weather.

Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow,  gave me this update on his late Tuesday night:

First wave alpenglow summit push tonight with Tibetan rope fixers!!!!!! Groups moving from c2 and c3. Not a drop of wind at 8300m since 1pm! Fingers crossed! Rope fixers fixed to second step today in great conditions, returned to 8300 at 4pm. Will fix to summit early tomorrow if winds remain low

Many teams are now positioned at the North Col and higher.  They include:

  • Chinese Team
  • 360 Expeditions
  • 7 Summits Club
  • Alpenglow
  • Adventure Peaks
  • Furtenbach
  • Kobler
  • Summit Climb

Nuptse Summit?

Tim Mosedale and Dorjee Gyalgen Sherpa said they didn’t summited Nuptse:

Alas there was new snow that covered the ropes and trail (again). Slow progress & energy sapping climbing proved too much for us. Tim&Dorje 0 – Nuptse 1.

But the Himalayan Tines said they did:

According to Iswari Paudel, Managing Director at Himalayan Guides Pvt. Ltd, British climber Timothy John Mosedale along with Dorjee Gyalgen Sherpa stood atop the mountain at 5:15 pm. “The team scaled the mountain fixing ropes to the summit point,” he added.

In any event, I assume they will go directly to Everest and Lhotse before traveling to Tibet to attempt Everest from that side before the season ends.

Follow the Climbers

These climbers/teams are using GPS tracking devices so you can follow along:



I do my best to track the teams I can during the summit push but don’t have direct communication with any of them or know the status of any individual. You can see what I am seeing on the tracker table.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything!

  4 Responses to “Everest 2019: Summit Wave 4 Underway – Tiny Window – Update 3”


    Any updates on Cory Richards and Topo climbing on the new route without O’s? I knew they were going dark for a bit but wondering if you had heard anything?


    Thanks Alan, its great keeping up with what is going on, thanks to you. I love Jake Norton’s picture of the ridge. And his respectful comments about Mallory and Irvine.


    Hi Alan!

    A BIG fan of your posts. Have been following along for years. Maybe you know this already and with that many people on the mountain i realize it is impossible to cover everything. In Denmark we have Rasmus Kragh attempting to summit for the third time without O’s. He’s attempted the north side twice (in 2017 and 2018) but failed to summit due to high winds. He’s currently 30 meters from camp 4 and will rest there for 3-5 hours before attempting to summit. Hopefully, he’ll be on the summit within the next 15-18 hours.

    This is probably not that special considering how many have summited without O’s already, but he is the first Dane that really looks like he’s going to pull it off. His progress can be followed here:
    Scroll down a bit and those interested can watch the attempt live.

    Best regards