The rope team made the summit on the Tibet side and I’m being told there are no winds at Camp 3 as climbers are leaving for the summit on Wednesday night, May 22. Meanwhile over 200 people summited from Nepal on Wednesday morning. There were long waits reported from the Balcony to the South Summit.
On the Tibet side, Adrian Ballinger proudly told me late This Wednesday night that their member who left the US only 12 days ago summited just behind the Chinese rope team:
Alpenglow Lightning Ascent summited to day with rope fixers!!!!! 10 days in country an 12 days since leaving USA. Lydia and Roxanne along with Pasang and Mingma summited with rope fixers in light to moderate winds and warm temps. They are back down to c2 and continuing to abc tonight, Shegar tomorrow and USA on 24th. It worked!
Nepal
Many, many teams summited early Wednesday morning:
- IMG reported they got 19 climbers on the summit, 11 Sherpas and 8 members.
- Jagged Globe report all their team, not sure exactly how many but at least 7 with Sherpas
- CTSS: 14 members and 25 Sherpas:
- Peter Wilson – Australia
- Tracey Walters – USA
- Bruce Graham – USA
- Bill Baringer – USA
- Richard Wilson – United Kingdom
- Wayne Morris – United Kingdom
- Bill Baringer – USA
- Noriyuki Ishikawa – Japan
- Phei Sunn Sim – Singapore
- Aditi Vaidya – India
- Anuja Vaidya – India
- Juarez Gustavo Soares – Brazil
- Mariam Ktiri – Morocco
- Fahad Badar – Qatar with Private Guide Oswaldo Freire (Ecuador)
- & to our 25x incredibly strong and dedicated Sherpa (names to be published shortly)
- 15th May 2019
- Mark Wilkins – USA + 2 Sherpa
- Seven Summits Treks put 17 on top:
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1: Sun Yiquan (Leader)
2: Chang Jian
3: Fan Bo
4: Tang Feng
5: Yang Tao
6: Ge Shuiqin
7: Liu Yutong
8: Xu Jingmei
9: Harish Wu -USA1: Sona Sherpa- Kathmandu
2: Tashi Sherpa-Makalu 9
3: Phurba Sherpa -Ramechhap
4: Ngima Dorchi Sherpa-Makalu 9
5: Ang Tenji Sherpa-Makalu 5
6: Pasang Nurbu Sherpa-Makalu 9
7: Pemba Thinduk Sherpa-Makalu 5
8: Nga Tashi Sherpa-Yaphu 9
-
- And Kaitu Expedition with 28
- 1. Zhang Baolong
2. Yue wei
3. Yu shui
4. Mai Guiqing
5. Mao Jianong
6. Lu Haichuan
7. Wang Hui
8. Wang Zhen
9. Yin Shuai
10. Ru Zhigang
11. Li Huangying
12. Guo wenjing
13. Pema Chhiring Sherpa IFMGA
14. Mingma chhiri Sherpa IFMGA
15. Vinayak Jay Malla IFMGA
16. Suman Gurung Cameramen IFMGA
17. Dawa Tashi Sherpa
18. Ningma Dorjee Tamang
19. Ang Pemba sherpa
20. Ngawang Tenjing sherpa
21. Pasang Ngima sherpa
22. Pemba Chhiri sherpa
23. Pur Bhadur Gurung
24. Iman Gurung Guide
25. Kanchha Nuru sherpa
26. Pasang Sona sherpa
27. Ang Dawa sherpa
28. Bishnu Gurung clients
- 1. Zhang Baolong
Mirza Ali summited today making him the first Pakistani male climber to complete the Seven Summits. And Fatima Deryan and Ralph Kisso of Lebanon also summited. I note these because Everest summits by climbed from the Middle East has been rare, especially female climbers.
Tibet – Ropes to Summit, No Winds
Apparently, there was a crowd following the Chinese rope fixers through early Wednesday night. Summits are being reported by:
- Transcend – at least 4 members with Sherpas
Adrian Ballinger, told me his late Wednesday night that they will wait a day to let the crowds thin out and “I’ll take wind over crowds”
Teams that were expected to summit Wednesday included
- Chinese Team
- 7 Summits Club
- Adventure Peaks
- Summit Climb
- Climbaya
Wave 5 Last Day of this Window
Those were who were planning a push for a Thursday, May 23 summit include:
Nepal – at South Col ~8,000m
- Adventure Consultants
- Benegas Brothers
- Dreamers Destination
- Friends of the Himalaya
- Madison Mountaineering
- Mountain Professionals
- IMG second team
- HST/Myrmidon second team
- Summit Climb – second team
Tibet – at C3 ~8300m
- Chinese Team
- 360 Expeditions
- 7 Summits Club
- Furtenbach
- Kobler
- Summit Climb
Follow the Climbers
These climbers/teams are using GPS tracking devices so you can follow along:
Tibet:
Nepal:
I do my best to track the teams I can during the summit push but don’t have direct communication with any of them or know the status of any individual. You can see what I am seeing on the tracker table.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything!
5 thoughts on “Everest 2019: Summit Wave 4 Recap – First Tibet Summits”
Thanks for the updates, I would like to point out that Fatima is the first Lebanese woman to summit Everest.
Alan, great update as always. Do you know or can you get the information on what the acclimatization routine was for the climbers in country for only 12 days? In and out in 2 weeks? This could start a trend that could be dangerous… or extremely workable?
I don’t know her history but Alpenglow has a strong program if using altitude tents for a couple of months before heading to altitude. You can read about her program at this link: https://guenergy.com/training-nutrition-for-a-lighting-fast-everest-ascent/
I have a summiting question. Once they reach the balcony how long will it take to reach the summit?
Then how long to get back down?
It varies depending onto strength of the climber and the crowds. I usually say 3-6 hours up and about half down. These were my times in 2011 at age 54. We were the first few people on top that year so zero crowd issues:
South Col – Balcony: 3:40
Balcony (with 20 minute break) – South Summit: 2:30 hours
South Summit (with 20 minute break)- top of Hillary Step: 1:00 hour
Hillary Step – Summit: 30 minutes
Descent Summit – Balcony: 2 hours
Balcony – South Col: 1 hour
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