Category: Manaslu 2013

After what was a safe and busy season with scores of heavily supported clients summiting Manaslu, the odds caught up with climbers on Shishapangma, the only 8000er fully in Tibet. American Anna Gutu with Migmar Sherpa are confirmed dead. Reported missing are American, Gina Marie Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama Sherpa. Lama was Kristin Harila’s partner in summiting all the 800ers in ninety-two days earlier this year. Both Americans were seeking the record to become the first female to summit all fourteen 8000 meter peaks. #manaslu2023

The 2023 autumn climbing season is underway, with most of the attention on Nepal’s Manaslu, oft acknowledged as one of the more “attainable” 8000ers. But there are climbers on other 8000ers like Dhaulagiri and Makalu. China reopened Tibet for climbing on Shishapangma and Cho Oyu. #manaslu2023

It’s a grim time on Manaslu with bodies being found related and unrelated to the avalanche earlier this week. Some teams have wisely ended their expeditions while others press on. Time will tell if there will more another release given the ongoing snows. Manaslu has experienced heavy snowfall this season. One of the Sherpas managing the route, Yukta Gurung, told The Kathmandu Post the avalanche was triggered by continuous snowfall. “It had snowed unceasingly for 15 days. The area was covered in at least five to six feet of snow; the piled-up snow ultimately gave way triggering the avalanche.”

A major avalanche similar to 2012 occurred high on Manalsu, between Camp 3 and 4, while several teams were climbing higher to be in position for summit bids around September 27 and 28. It appears that Sherpas ferrying loads to Camp 4 took the worst of the avalanche. Poor weather is hampering rescue efforts.

Let me warn readers from the outset that when these incidents occur, the first news is almost always incorrect or at least incomplete. The details will become clear as teams return to camps and communications are established. According to my sources on the mountain, it is unclear if the season will continue. It’s too early to make that decision.

The Himalayan Times reports that “As many as 12 climbers were injured … Sherpa climbers from Seven Summit Treks, Satori Adventure, Imagine Nepal Treks, Elite Expedition, and 8K Expeditions are among others were injured. Gorkha Police said the deceased has been identified as Anup Rai.”

The Kathmandu Post reported that Icefall doctor Yukta Gurung, who is at the base camp, said that the avalanche was triggered by continuous snowfall. “It had snowed unceasingly for 15 days. The area was covered in at least five to six feet of snow; the piled-up snow ultimately gave way triggering the avalanche.”

Seven Summits Treks reported in with injuries, “We witnessed an avalanche this afternoon between C3-C4 while team were reopening the trail to C4 in Manaslu. More than 13 climbers (including Sherpas) were swept along with the avalanche. 4 Sherpas, including 2 from our team need urgent rescue from higher camp, however rest of all have minor injuries. ”

Slowly teams are checking in. At the time of this post, around 10:00 PM Monday, September 26, Nepal time, we know that Furtunebach, Climbing the Seven Summits, Elite Expeditions, Imagine Nepal, Madison Mountaineering, Pioneer Adventure, and Wild Yak have all checked in with their teams safe.

While most teams were waiting in base camp for the recent snowfall to settle, a few pushed on, breaking trail and either pulling the fixed ropes out or putting in new ones to reach the true summit of Manaslu. There is no word on the route was used but Kristin Harila, Pasdawa Sherpa, Dawa Ongchu Sherpa, with 8k Expeditions, were one of the first to summit. They will continue their quest to get all 14 8000ers in six months. Now they move to Cho Oyu from the Nepal side and hopefully Shishapangma if the Chinese will approve their permit application.

Other summits were reported by Vijay Kumar Appasab Patil (India) with Phurba Dorchi Sherpa, Mingma Thinduk Sherpa, and Chinese climber Hu Tao with Pioneer Treks.

Sanu Sherpa summited the true top after his first two summits were apparently only to the fore summit. He had

The recent heavy snow has stalled summit bids on Manaslu. Around 30 cm, ~1 foot of fresh snow is reported between C3 and C4. Phunuru Sherpa with International Mountain Guides reported that 120 people turned back due to avalanche conditions today, September 21, 2022. They are back in Base  Camp now. Also, several cases of COVID are being reported at Manaslu.

Progress continues on Manalsu, with many teams having reached Camp 2 at 21,000 feet and some to Camp 3 around 22,300 feet during their acclimatization rotation. Up to three feet of fresh snow recently fell on the upper mountain. Summit bids are expected to begin on Thursday, September 22.

The Nepal government has issued 404 permits to foreigners. Combining this with a 1:1.2 support ratio, there are around 1,000 people currently attempting Manaslu. One of the reasons Manaslu is so popular these days is that China closed Cho Oyu in the last few years due to COVID. These two 8000ers are considered the best ones for beginner climbers of the highest peaks. Of course, now that Manaslu’s true summit has come into focus, those who really value a summit may be disappointed.

There is little doubt that 2022 will be a record summit year on Manaslu, but only if you take the previous summit claims to include the fore summit. In 2019 there were 363 “summits,” 2018 had 354, and 2017 saw 329. Before these years, summits rarely reached the 100 level. Of course, if you count only the true summit, these numbers go from a handful to zero. It will be interesting to see how many people claim they reached the true summit in 2022.