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Oct 082017
Everest and K2 in the Winter

Will there be a winter summit of Everest and finally on K2 this winter? This is always a question as we approach winter. And teams usually keep their plans quiet. The recent suspects include Alex Txikon on Everest and the Poles on K2. To claim a true winter ascent of a northern hemisphere peak, the summit must be reached during the calendar winter of the northern hemisphere. For 2017/18 this begins with the winter solstice on December 21, 2017 at 11:28 am EST and ends with the spring equinox on March 201, 2018 at 12:15 pm EDT. Also to be fully continue reading

Aug 242017
Climbing News: The Difficulty of Finding the Summit

If there is one certainty in mountaineering it is not to believe everything you read, and in some cases your own eyes. For the second time this season, well-regarded Sherpa guide, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa seems to have missed the summit. First on Nanga Parbat by his own admission now on Broad Peak according to one of the climbers with him. These are not the first time Mingma has had his summit questioned even though he claims to have summited 11 of the 14 peaks above 8000 meters. For many climbers, these claims end up being honest mistakes where the climber continue reading

Aug 142017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: How Mingma Gyalje Sherpa's team Summited K2 when others Stopped

For the first time since 2014, K2 saw climbers on the summit. Lead by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa founder of the Nepali guide company Dreamers Destination, this 31 year-old Sherpa pushed the limits when other longtime, well respected guides said “no.” While the Khumbu seems to be the home of Sherpas who have summited Everest, the Rolwaling valley is quickly becoming the home of the K2 Sherpas with 9 summits between the Sherpas who live there. Not only did Mingma summit K2, his second summit of the world’s second highest peak, but he also summited four other 8000ers and nearly got another continue reading

Aug 042017
Mingma Sherpa Continues 8000er Roll with Broad Peak

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa founder of Dreamers Destination continues his impressive 2017 with yet another summit of an 8000 meter mountain, Broad Peak. Icelander John Snorri Sigurjónsson also summited BP adding to his two 8000ers this year – K2 and Lhotse. British-American Vanessa O’Brien who summited K2 with Mingma was not with them but apparently, as reported by Mingma, Fredrik Sträng went along to nab Broad Peak thus not wasting his trip to the Karakorum after not being able to summit K2. Mingma posted on Facebook: Finished my 11x8000m peak. Broad peak is my 10th 8000m without oxygen. All safely arrived back to camp3. Congratulation continue reading

Jul 292017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: More K2 Summit Attempts - Update 2

After hosting 12 people on the summit of K2 on 28 July 2017, another few independent climbers are going to give it a go. UPDATE 2: IT’S OVER Andrzej Bargiel : Time to go home UPDATE 1: It seems it’s over for all. Both  Fredrik Sträng’s  and Andrzej Bargiel  have posted on their social media that conditions feel too dangerous. Plus the Polish team training for a winter attempt turned back. Yesterday’s joy today’s frustration. I was very happy to work and climb together with the polish team and climb for summit attempt. Every member in the polish team turned around and it continue reading

Jul 282017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: K2 Summits!!

Perseverance and courage has paid off for Mingma Gyalje Sherpa’s Dreamer Destinations’ team. They put 12 people on the summit of K2 – the first summits since 2014. There was another summit of Broad Peak and Russell Brice, announces he’s ending his guiding career. K2 Summits! I have written a lot this season about risk tolerances, differences of opinions and the willingness to continue when others turn back. So in that environment, Minga deserves tremendous credit for showing the leadership skills to push his clients to the summit in what other highly experienced operators determined unacceptable conditions. As I outlined continue reading

Jul 272017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: High Camp Chaos - Update 2

The scene at K2 high camp is disjointed. Some climbers feel it is too dangerous, while others are going for the summit. The route is covered in deep snow and the weather window is tiny so those choosing to stay will have climb fast and efficient and have a lot of luck on their side to avoid a serious disaster. UPDATE 2 The team of 14 (9 Sherpas, 5 westerners) are moving steadily. no word on mountain conditions or weather but the window was forecasted to be short meaning if they summit, they will most likely descend in harsh wind continue reading

K2 2017 Season Coverage: Broad Peak Summits, K2 Push Soon

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Jul 272017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Broad Peak Summits, K2 Push Soon

Broad Peak received more summits this summer of 2017. Climbers on K2 are now positioned at high camp in mixed weather, however they are experiencing deep snow. The next 24 hours will determine summit results and next several days for their safe return to base camp. Broad Peak Summits!! On Broad Peak, Tunç Fındık  posted they summited along with Oscar Cadiach, Yusuf and Ali!. Tunc is referred to as Bronze Nuts 🙂 Bronze Nuts Nuts’s’s’s’s………….. It was at saat:10:40 this morning. Bronze @ 7800 M. And He’s on his way down. Team-Oscar Cadiach, Yusuf, Ali Sadpara. Bronze is 7300 m today. He’s continue reading

Jul 262017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Climbers At High Camps - Updated

Climbers on both Broad Peak and K2 are now positioned at high camps in the good weather that was forecasted, however they are experiencing deep snow. The next 24 hours will determine summit results and next several days for their safe return to base camp. UPDATE: John Snorri Sigurjónsson via his InReach on K2 posted. This would have them leaving C4 around midnight on 27 July: In C4 snow depth 50 up to 100cm it cost all energy took 12h c3 to c4 summit push start in 14h. thank you all who are following On Broad Peak, Tunç Fındık  has been posting their progress continue reading

Jul 252017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: Pushing the Limits

With fresh snow and high winds, K2 and Broad Peak are challenging climber’s judgement. Teams on K2 are threading a narrow window hoping to summit in the next couple of days. Some climbers feel the risk is too great and have already turned back. Over on Broad Peak a similar story is playing out. K2 Gamble Climbers are all over K2 from base camp to at least Camp 3 on both the Abruzzi and the Cesen routes. The large commercial teams of Furtenbach and Himex have turned back saying the risk is too much but the Nepali lead teams, Destination continue reading