In 1996, three Indian climbers died on the Tibetan side of Everest. One became known as “Green Boots” and was macabrely used as a route marker for 30 years. That’s about to come to an end.

Unbelievably, his exact identity has remained a mystery for three decades, with debate over whether he was Tsewang Paijor or Dorje Morup. They were climbing with the massive 46-member Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) expedition.

The first sub-team, seven climbers, attempted to summit on 10 May 1996. Subedar Tsewang Smanla, Lance Naik Dorje Morup, 47, and Head Constable Tsewang Paljor were climbing when four others turned back when hit by high winds and snow, the same storm that caught the Adventure Consultants and Mountain Madness teams on the Nepal side. Smanla, Morup, and Paljor decided to continue for the summit– one of the climbers was wearing neon green Koflach boots–with no Sherpa/Tibetan support.

According to reports in the Himalaya Database, there are credible doubts that the three climbers summited, stopping at the fore-summit due to the wind, and radioed their base camp coordinator. Later, on May 10, 1996, at 15:45 Nepal time. They began their descent, split into two teams as Smanla wanted more time wherever he was. Contradictory reports have a Japanese team climbing on the same day, reporting that they saw bodies and offering help, which, reportedly, the ITBP refused.

So who is Mr. Green Boots?

Both bodies, Paljor between the first and second steps and Smanla above the Second Step at 8,610 m (28,248 ft), were seen by later summit attempts a few days after May 10^th. Keep in mind that the body could have been moved at any time, making the 1996 elevation reports moot. It was widely reported (including by me) that he was moved in 2014 by the Chinese to be less visible.

For decades, the climbing community simply used the moniker rather than a name, but the press often said he was Paljor, and he was lying in the snow, face covered, one green boot sticking out of a small cave to the climber’s left (ascending), next to the route around 8,500 m (27,900 ft).

The Japanese sent a second party to the summit on 13 May. They saw several bodies around the First Step at 8,564 meters (28,097 feet) but continued to the summit.

A second ITBP group also found the bodies of Smanla and Morup during their return from the summit. In a 1997 article titled “The Indian Ascent of Qomolungma by the North Ridge,” P.M. Das described how they encountered Morup “lying under the shelter of a boulder near their line of descent, close to Camp 6,” with his clothing undisturbed and his rucksack beside him.

Now we are learning that a DNA test for his identity has been conducted by the ITBP, and he has been identified as Lance Naik Dorje Morup.

For thirty years, many who monitored this situation assumed he was Tsewang Paljor. His family has asked for his return since his death.

The Recovery

In June 2026, thirty years later, the ITBP announced it was seeking quotes to recover “Green Boots,” which they believe is the body of Dorje Morup. Oddly, they asked for the mission to occur between June and September 2026. There have only been six summits in July, August and September. Perhaps, they want to avoid any other expeditions getting in the way.

They are assuming it will take “at least six highly experienced Nepali Sherpas, preferably Everest summiteers, with expertise in technical retrieval operations above 8000 meters,” according to the Tribune India.

I think it may take more, and it will be gruesome, given that the body has fused to the mountain for thirty years. Using the photos of George Mallory’s calcified body as an example, it will be “difficult” to extract the body, and certainly impossible in one piece. I hope the family is prepared.

Then there are formalities with China and Nepal to be completed to transport the remains back to India.

My Thoughts

I have two questions: Why now? And what took so long? The ITBP is funded by the Indian government, which has supported other Indian climbers’ body retrieval over the last thirty years– so what was the delay for this one?

According to its own site, it was “Formed in 1962, the force is renowned for its high-altitude, mountaineering, and disaster relief operations in the Himalayas.” And today, it brags about its mountaineering accomplishments on Instagram. 

But my real concern involves the climbing community:

Using “green Boots” as a radio call for wherever you were was/is wrong. Whether Paljor or Smanla, show your fellow climbers respect. Use their name (s) – both if you have an opinion.

We can do better.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything