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Jan 162021
 
K2 Traverse 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

Winter K2 Summit Overview:

The historic winter summit of K2 is underway on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. K2 is the last of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks not summited in winter.

The plan was to leave high camp around 1:00 am Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. Of course, a lot depends on snow and wind conditions. It will be cold, with wind chills hovering around -55C/-67F. They will be setting the fixed rope as they climb, so later teams will probably move faster. Remember that Migma G is climbing without supplemental oxygen. He could be the first to summit K2 in the winter with no Os.


Summit Push Update #4, 4:30: (all times local K2)

NO UPDATES from the team as of this time. I’m in continuous contact with their teams. I’m told all ten climbers will collect 30 feet below the summit and top out together. The weather remains good but the winds are forecasted to pick up significantly later Saturday night into Sunday.

There are a few scenarios: 1) they are holding the announcement for sponsors (primarily Nim’s Red Bull, etc.) 2) they are just celebrating for themselves and will get to us eventually or 3) they are waiting for the slowest climber to join them to summit together.

Summit Push Update #3, 1:30: (all times local K2)

Mingma G says at 1:00 “We are now 200m away to make Nepal n climbing community proud. “They are now past the Bottleneck, and the Traverse and will summit around 2-2:30 pm local time.

SST Leader, Dawa Sherpa later posted from Base Camp that “ he team planned to stop 10 meters below the summit, form a group (all 10 climbers) and reach the summit together!

Approaching K2 Summit 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

Approaching K2 Summit 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

Summit Push Update #2, 7:00: (all times local K2)

Dawa from SST notes: “Team crossing bottle neck in Mt. K2.” If they left at 1:00am, this is extremely slow but they are fixing rope and have a climber without Os. Current wind on K2’s summit from windy.com. Amazing.

There is always a time lag in these ascents. I assume they will cross the Traverse quickly and summit in the afternoon, which, unlike Everest, is not a problem.

 

K2 Traverse 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

K2 Traverse 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

Summit Push Update #1, 01:00: Climbers should have (seeking confirmation) left High Camp and are climbing towards the Bottleneck, which is notorious for rockfall. They are climbing in the dark under clear skies, temps around -40C with a windchill at -50C. It should take several hours to reach the traverse, which is the most time-consuming part of route fixing. It can take several hours.

Ice Serac from K2 C4 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

Ice Serac from K2 C4 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

 

Approaching the Bottleneck Above K2 C4 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

Approaching the Bottleneck Above K2 C4 2014 © www.alanarnette.com


Background

With the fixed ropes set to 7800-meters, the summit team left Camp 4 near 25,080’/7600m for the summit at 1:00 am Saturday.  The team of ten includes:

  • Nims’ Team:
    • Nirmal Purja Pun Magar aka Nimsdai
    • Gelje Sherpa
    • Mingma David Sherpa
    • Mingma Tenzi Sherpa
    • Dawa Temba Sherpa
    • Pem Chhiri Sherpa
  • MIngma G’s team:
    • Mingma G
    • Kilu Pemba Sherpa
    • Dawa Tenjing Sherpa
  • SST Sherpa:
    • Sona Sherpa

Nims will lead the summit team and they suggest there will be no one person claiming the summit but rather a team summit on behalf of Nepal. This has been Mingma G.’s plan all along with his Sherpa only team. Nims summit team is also only Sherpa. One Sherpa from Severn Summits Treks is on the summit push. Both gentlemen, Mingma and Nims, have expressed a deep desire to show the world that Nepalis are just as credible climbers as any other nationality on the planet.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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  13 Responses to “Winter K2 Summit Update #4 of 4: Tracking the Historic Summit Push”

  1.  

    A tremendous achievement. Congratulations Team Nepal. Your country and the world beyond are so proud.

    Stay safe…

  2.  

    They did it. Nepalese team is now at the Top !

  3.  

    Great job, Nepalese heroes !

    I am so exited!!!

  4.  

    possible scenario 4) Nims is setting his paraglider, lol.
    Seriously – what an achievement this will be, and what a way to do it.
    Brilliant. Thanks for the updates Alan.

  5.  

    They are waiting 10m before the summit for Magdalena Gorzkowska.

  6.  

    Some news¿
    What is the situation on mountain?

  7.  

    Can’t wait to see them on the summit !
    Thanks a lot Alan for all the quality news 🙂 and sources !

  8.  

    No climber….great following and exciting reading. Be safe all.

  9.  

    Wow, wow. Wow! Let’s go!!!

    Thank you for posting. So exciting. So proud of the Nepali team!

  10.  

    Being at the right place(C4) and right time(weather window) coupled with super strong climbers has to be the reason for their success. Eagerly waiting for furthur updates.

  11.  

    I am obsessively checking your blog for updates. Thank you so much for it. I am not a mountaineer and know very little about it but have been following Nim’s story for a while.
    This is so very exciting for the Nepali team. Praying that they all get safely there and back.

  12.  

    14: 38
    Nepalese Team planned to stop 10m below the summit, form a group ( all 10 climbers) and get the summit together!

    K2 Winter Expedition 2020/21, Seven Summit Treks.

    PROUD NEPAL !!

  13.  

    So exciting, i cannot sleep! Cheers from Glenwood Springs CO

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