Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Mass on Manaslu – Rope to True Summit
The fixed ropes are now to the true summit of Manaslu. As expected, Manaslu is overrun with clients and a greater number of support climbers. Thus far, the Nepal government has issued 394 permits to foreigners, so considering a 1:1.5 support ratio, that puts close to 600 people on the peak, with more to come.
In an interesting twist, a few climbers who climbed all fourteen of the 8000ers are returning to Manaslu to correct the “sins” of the past by tagging the true summit. I don’t expect all of the people on Manaslu to attempt the true summit unless the conditions are extremely safe, or for example, a boot path is created that allows beginner 8000er climbers to simply follow a trail. Most will be content to tag the fore summit and move on to other 8000ers next spring.
Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Manaslu and More!
Repost due to error in first post. My apologies
The autumn climbing season is underway, with most of the attention on Nepal’s Manaslu, oft acknowledged as one of the more “attainable” 8000ers. However, many things changed last year when one team showed an alternate route to the true summit, thus turning scores of climber’s previous claims on their heels, including my own.
With an expected record crowd on Manalsu, I hope we don’t see a repeat of this spring’s and summer’s poor practices with respect to trash, excessive support, and excessive supplemental oxygen on Manaslu. However, with so much demand for these 8000ers, nothing surprises me anymore.
For many, the allure of the 8000ers is gone, as interest in following masses of inexperienced people led by massive support leaves a sour taste for many avid climbing fans. In many ways, the 8000ers have become like Kilimanjaro, Denali, Aconcagua, or the rest of the Seven Summits, attracting too many people seduced by summit promises, low prices, and rock-star style leaders. I fear we are only one unexpected situation be it weather, ques or competence from a major tragedy on the big peaks. That said, if you have the skills and experience plus choose the right team, route, and season, climbing these beasts will change your life for the better.
Manaslu 2013: Final Trip Report
Part of every big climb is to document it with a complete trip report, pictures, frequently asked questions and perhaps a video. All this is now complete and posted on my main site. These are the links: Manaslu 2013 Trip Report and Video Picture Gallery Frequently Asked Questions Expedition Dispatches If I were to summarize […]
Manaslu 2013: Summit Report
Thanks to everyone for following my climb of the world’s 8th highest peak, healing Manaslu at 26, thumb 759 feet or 8156 meters. I summited the true summit at 9:40AM on September 25, 2013 after leaving the high Camp at 3:10AM. The time included waiting for almost 1:30 minutes for the final rope to be […]
Manaslu 2013 Audio Dispatch
This is a new audio dispatch from Alan Arnette as I climb the 8000m mountain Manaslu in Nepal. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Manaslu 2013 Audio Dispatch
This is a new audio dispatch from Alan Arnette as I climb the 8000m mountain Manaslu in Nepal. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Manaslu 2013 – Leaving for the Summit
Weather is often the most unpredictable part of an 8000m expedition other than health. You can control some factors around health but for weather, well not so much. We went to sleep on Thursday night to a light rain that developed into a full on storm throughout the night. Many times I awoke to a […]
Manaslu 2013 – Dramatic Changes
The thin white nylon rope snaked straight up, the footpath went directly ahead rounding an icy corner before gaining elevation. I looked around for guidance on the route to Camp 2 on Manaslu but found myself alone; no teammates, Sherpas, guides from other teams – no one around. I was alone and needed to continue […]
Manaslu 2013 – Camp 1 Success
The first test of a Himalayan expedition is the climb to Camp 1. This is when you know if you trained hard enough, you are taking care of yourself and what the mountain is saying. Our climb to tag Camp 1 was successful on all counts. Everyone did well. I was pleased with my own […]
Manaslu 2013 – Base Camp Life
Base Camp for any long expedition becomes home away from home. You establish walking routes between tents, viewing positions of the high mountain, and meeting spots with other teams. Your tent becomes your private re, and the dining tent is the common area. We arrived on Saturday and have spent the last couple of days […]