Everest 2017: First Summits!!

Big, positive news from Everest, the ropes were fixed to the summit from the Tibet side on 11 May 2017 around 4:30 pm. Meanwhile, the Nepal side climbers are settling in for a bit of a wait with those ropes not expected to be fixed until 17 May. Cooperation on the North Side The ropes on […]
Everest 2017: Early Summits may be Later

There comes a time in every expedition where you feel like the world is conspiring against you. Well, not always, but often enough that the talk over meals, whispers outside the tents and prayers revolve around one thing – good weather! 2017’s word of the day – wind, is quickly becoming the word of the […]
Everest 2017: Weather Playing Cruel Tricks on Climbers

All dressed up and nowhere to go! That is the story on Everest right now. Those staged at the high camps expecting the ropes to be fixed to the summit are disappointed. Those down valley relaxing in tea houses are smug and those at base camps are bored. On the Nepal side, the team of […]
Everest 2017: Ropes Near Summit, Climbers Staged

This is a brief update today as the majority of teams on both sides are resting up at their respective base camps or lower. However it appears the forecast for calmer weather materialized as Sherpas on the Nepal side reached the Balcony with the fixed ropes. And in a curious move the illegal Everest climber was […]
Everest 2017: Weekend Update May 7

Climbers have been putting in the hard work that will be needed next week when almost certainly we will see the first Everest summits in the Spring 2017 season. The winds have been fierce for the past week stopping efforts to get the ropes to the summit on either side. The forecast, however, calls for a […]
Everest 2017: Catching up with Russell Brice

Russell Brice has one of the most recognized names associated with Everest. As I mentioned in an interview I did with Russ just prior to the season he came to notoriety on the Discovery Channel’s “Everest Beyond the Limits” series about 10 years ago. But few people know that Russ is a world-class climber in his own […]
Everest 2017: Climbers Battle the Winds, Health and Tragedy

Everest continue to challenge teams on both sides with high winds and snow squalls. Some teams continue to push while others are content to stay put. I finally have solid information on the number of climbers on Everest for 2017 – about 1,100 total on both sides, This includes foreigners and support staff climbing. You can add in another […]
Everest 2017: Sherpa Unrest while Climbers Rush to Acclimatize

With the winds finally calming, teams are making serious progress reaching 7000 meters for acclimatization, meanwhile the Sherpas staged a protest at Everest Base Camp. There is massive movements on both sides of Everest today with teams scrambling to get their acclimatization rotations competed in anticipation of an emerging summit window. As I covered in […]
Everest 2017: Climbing Resumes after Winds and Tragedy

While 2017 has been what I term a “normal” season, as we enter the midpoint on May 1st, there are signs of trouble. The winds continue to be the wildcard this season, stalling many teams from continuing their acclimatization rotations. Almost all the reports on the south side include the words windy and cold. Obviously this […]
Everest 2017: Ueli Steck Dies on Nuptse – Updated

Horribly tragic news is coming in that Swiss climber, Ueli Steck, 40, has died on Nuptse near Camp 1 Camp 2 off the Western Cwm. I have received 100% confirmation from multiple sources at Everest. I am told his wife has been notified. His body was recovered and is now in transport to Kathmandu. Durga Dutta […]