Everest 2023: American Dies at Camp 2

An American, Jonathan Sugarman, 69, died at Camp 2 on Everest on Tuesday, May 1, 2023. He was climbing with International Mountain Guides. The retired MD from the Seattle area trained diligently for the expedition and was feeling well. Last year, he summited Lobuche and Island Peak and reached Camp 3 on Everest. #everest2023

Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 30

Everest teams are doing the usual acclimatization rotations but are seeing heavy attrition that will ease crowding concerns. There’s a new level of base camp luxuries that might be beyond the pale for some purists.  Heavy snow is forecasted on Dhaulagiri, stalling movement there. Overall, it’s been a low-drama year, thankfully. #everest2023

Everest 2023: Record Permits, Acclimatizations Underway

Setting the Fixed rope on the Lhotse Face on Everest

It’s mid-season, and there are mixed results on the ‘other’ 8000ers and a lot of movement on Everest. The ropes are now at the South Col, and the rope team estimates tagging the summit around May 10, depending on the weather. This is slower than previous estimates. Let’s take a look at acclimatization and climbing the Lhotse Face.

Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 23

While teams are as high as Camp 2 on Everest, most of the attention was on Annapurna, where one climber died, and two other climbers were miraculously rescued. Heavy snow hit Everest, but climbing continued. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits topped 400, a record for the Nepal side. The fixed rope was set to the South Col. I expect it reach the summit late next week. #everest2023

Everest 2023: Miracle Rescues on Annapurna

In what can only be described as a miracle, Anurag Maloo, 34, was found barely alive deep in a crevasse. He disappeared three days earlier. Polish climbers Adam Bielecki, and Mariusz Hatala descended into the crevasse and found him. He was flown to Pokhara and then to Kathmandu and is in critical condition. Bielecki was on Annapurna trying a different route when he heard of the situation. #everest2023

Everest 2023: Deaths and Rescues on Annapurna

On the tenth highest mountain, Annapurna, 26,545 feet, at least one person has died, another is missing and over five needed to be rescued at 24,000 feet. Poor weather was part of the problem, and high winds and heavy snow are in the forecast for this weekend. #everest2023

Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 16

This was a week of highs and lows across the Himalayas. On Everest, three Sherpas lost their lives in the Icefall. The season’s first 8000 meters summits occurred on Saturday, April 16, on Annapurna. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits top 300.

Everest 2023: First Deaths of Season

Debris from an apparent serac release off Everest’s west shoulder has taken the lives of three Sherpas in the Khumbu Icefall. They were part of the rope team ferrying gear to begin fixing the route from Camp 2 to the summit. Searchers are said to have located their bodies but have not recovered them, but early information is often wrong. #everest2023

Everest 2023: Himalayan Update and “Records”

A few teams have reached Everest Base Camp, but most are still trekking or acclimatizing on Trekking Peaks like Lobuche, Mera or Island Peak. Camps are being established in the Western Cwm. Look for the first 8000 meters summit of the season in a few days #everest2023

Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 8

Fixing the route on Everest

As we end the first week of April 2023, teams continue their treks to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Meanwhile, bad weather has brought climbing to a halt on Annapurna. Reports of heavy snow may make the 2023 spring season more challenging than we’ve seen in years. But the good news is the fixed ropes are set from EBC to Camp 2, and the Icefall is officially open.