Wave 1 Recap (updated)
May 22nd, 2010 will be a day recorded in history: the youngest person to summit Everest and the person with the most summits in history on the same same day yet from different sides. Apa Sherpa at age 47 made his 20th summit with the Eco Everest team and on the other side of the mountain, 13 year-old Jordan Romero along with his dad and Sherpa team made the top of the world, his 6th of the 7 summits. What a day. Jordan showed his strength by going directly from camp 2 to the summit. I am not sure of the exact time but believe it was around 9 hours. They are reported to be back at camp 2 and will descend to ABC. The SPOT technology and the map produced by ESRI worked extremely well. There were only a few times when a signal was not plotted on the map – two periods of about 45 minutes, which was probably due to the line of site being blocked to the satellite. But the world watched as the flashing red dot moved in a steady pace. Yet with all this excitement, many other “mere mortals” also summited including elite Sherpa climber Ang Dorge Sherpa who made his 14th summit with Adventure Consultants. With the AC team was Mandy Ramsden, 1st South African woman to complete the 7 Summits. With the Eco Everest team were the youngest Indian climber ever Arjun Vajpai at age 16 and David Liano, who intended to climbed Everest from both sides but became ill and had to go back to Kathmandu during his north attempt, was cleared, and returned to the south to climb with Apa Sherpa! Also on that team were two members of the Finnish team: Timo Jaatien and Mika Pitkamaki plus 9 Sherpas. There were many more summits Saturday morning, including the large Himex team, and I will try to note as many as possible over the next few days. I have updated the location chart based on what I know from last night. In the next post I will begin today’s summit wave. My sincere congratulations to all. update: This from Himex guide Adrian Ballinger: All 12 members, 4 guides and 17 sherpa successfully climbed to the roof of the world, and back down to Camp 4 at the South Col. The weather was perfect, no wind, cold at the summit, but quite warm lower down. The summit was totally clear, with incredible views all around. There were very few other climbers summiting at that time, affording our climbers time to savour their triumph at the top, and meaning they did not face the traffic jams that occured last year at the Hillary Step. Half the team have opted to continue on down to Camp 2 before stopping for the night, the others will overnight where they are at Camp 4. Great job everyone! Climb On! Alan
An Update from Ang Tshering Sherpa
Ang Tshering Sherpa is the Chairman and Founder of Asian Trekking, one of the oldest expedition companies in Nepal. He is the current President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association and perhaps the most influential Nepali in mountaineering. He sends a few letters out during the year with updates on the Himalayan climbing scene. His most recent letter has a few interesting tidbits. Everest 2010 Asian Trekking is supporting 9 expeditions, with 3 on Everest, this season including their own Eco Everest expedition. Dawa Steven Sherpa is co-leading the climb as usual. Last year they had an innovative “Cash for Trash” program that resulted in tons of garbage being removed from the south side of Everest. This year they want to clean up Everest above Camp 2. Apa Sherpa goes for #20 Apa Sherpa, the famed Nepalese Sherpa with the most summits of anyone, is back in 2010 going for his 20th summit! He is co-leading the Eco Everest expedition. Cho Oyu from Nepal? Ang Tshering suggests that climbers may have an alternative to climbing Cho Oyu from Nepal instead of the traditional Tibet route. The Nepal Government was asked to waive all permit fees for five years for Cho Oyu. However, the route from Nepal is quite difficult and would not replace the Tibet route that makes Cho Oyu an “easy” 8000m mountain. Last fall, Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko climbed the south-east face in alpine style. This competed Urubko’s 14 8000m quest climbing all the peaks without supplemental oxygen. But Cho Oyu from Nepal it could an attractive alternative for qualified climbers if the Chinese continue to make it difficult to obtain permits as they are this season on Everest. Recently, climbers have been told not to enter Tibet until April 10, a slight delay that will cause more aggravation than problems. But it was announced late and some teams had to abandon previously planned acclimatization climbs in Tibet. Here is Ang Tshering’s letter in full: Namaste and warm greetings from Nepal. I am delighted to inform you that finally the spring Expedition Season starting soon and I am pleased to share with you many interesting and positive news from Nepal. Apa Sherpa,World Record Holder for 19 ascents of Mt.Everest and Climbing Leader of Eco Everest Expedition is heading for 20th Summit on Mt.Everest this spring and Asian Trekking family extends their all support and wishes for the success. Eco Everest Expedition: Once again this year Asian Trekking is organising the Eco Everest Expedition (2010). Under the leadership of Dawa Steven Sherpa, Apa Sherpa (19 times Everest Summiteer: world record holder) as the Climbing Leader and Nanga Dorje Sherpa as Sirdar. The focus will be on climbing in an eco-sensitive manner, bringing old garbage, and all human waste produced on the mountain down to base camp for proper disposal. The expedition will once again be using the highly successful alternative energy solutions like the parabolic solar cookers and the SteriPENs for water purification. This year Dawa Steven and his Eco Everest Expedition team has planned to focus to collect and bring down previous expedition garbage between the altitudes of 6500 m and above. A team of 10 high altitude Sherpas will be hired to clean up garbage and debris from such high altitudes. Eco Everest Expedition 2009 team had brought down nearly 6000 kilos of previous expedition garbage from Mt. Everest under the Cash for Trash program. This year’s Eco Everest Expedition targets to bring down 1000 kgs of debris from high altitude above Camp 2 (6500m) and 6000 kgs of debris from Camp 2 and below. Since the spring Season is approaching very closed, The following are the expedition Teams Confirmed up to today through Asian Trekking: 1. Eco Everest Expedition 2. Kazakh Lhotse Expedition 3. International Everest Expedition 1 4. International Everest Expedition 2 5. International Cho-oyu Expedition 6. International Shishapangma Expedition 7. Chilean Amadablam Expedition 8. Korean Himlung Expedition 9. German Cho-oyu Expedition Please visit: www.asian-trekking.com for details. Beat the GLOF Event and Save the Himalaya Khumbu Festival will be held at Khumjung village on 4 June 2010 instead of 10 – 11 June. The date for this event has been postponed for the convenience of the guests of 3rd International Sagarmatha (Mt.Everest) Day Celebration, which will be held on 29 May 2010, to participate in Beat the GLOF Event and Save the Himalaya Khumbu Festival. The event will be celebrated with various programs which focus on the mountain communities, the mountain environment and the impacts of climate change on them. The event will be supported by Idea,Nepal Tourism Board, Sagarmatha National Park, and many non government organizations. 2nd New International Airport in Nepal: Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation held a ceremony on March 7, 2010 where an agreement was signed between The Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation, and Land Mark Worldwide Co. Ltd., Korea. The agreement was on the detailed feasibility study of the second international airport at Dhumberwana, Nijgadh; a town situated in Bara District, 84 kilometers south-east from Kathmandu. The feasibility study will have to be completed within 10 months from the date of agreement signed. Nepal Tourism Year 2011 was officially launched on February 26, 2010 and preparations have already begun which is sure to make way for improvements in Nepal’s Tourism. All the political parties of Nepal including the Unified Maoist Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) have signed an agreement committing not to call any bandhs or any such strikes that affect the tourists during the period of Nepal Tourism Year. Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA),TAAN and EOAN have appealed and suggested to The Government of Nepal to help solve many problems prevailing in the Nepalese mountain tourism. Among the many requests made following are the main ones. A) Since 16 July 2008, the Government of Nepal waived off royalty of the opened peaks in the Midwestern and Farwestern Nepal for five years (till 16 June 2013) which shows good sign of positive developments in these region. Similarly
No Everest Traverses in 2010
It seems the Chinese are playing havoc with the more ambitious Everest climbers this spring. Not content with a “simple” summit, several climbers wanted to do various forms of traversing Everest. This involves climbing from one side to the summit and then down to the other side’s base camp. Some climbers wanted to then return thus a double traverse. It is now clear the Chinese are not issuing permits for such climbs probably based on their desire to keep a successful double traverse in reserve for a national climber. However, not to be denied, two former Everest summiters, David Liano and Bill Burke, will be attempting what they call a double ascent this spring. Bill posted this on his website: My current plan is to complete a double ascent of Mt. Everest, which has also never been done: ascend and descend on the North side in Tibet, travel to Nepal and then ascend and descend on the South side. I will be joined by my good climbing friend from Mexico, 30-year old David Liano. David is a highly accomplished mountaineer, having climbed the Seven Summits and summitted Mt. Everest twice from the South side. Mingma, who was my Sherpa last year, and is now part of my family, will be my Sherpa again this year on this unguided climb. I have chosen to climb the North side first for three reasons: (1) if I am able to make only one summit (e.g., because of weather or fatigue), I want it to be on a North side climb since I have already climbed Everest from the South side, (2) generally Everest teams on the North side summit earlier in the season than teams on the South side and (3) I will be able to acclimatize on the North side without having to go through the deadly Khumbu Icefall three times (the North side does not have an icefall). There had been two other traverse plans previously announced. Gavin Turner who wanted to complete the never before accomplished double traverse and and another from Australian Andrew Lock, who has competed all 14 8000m summits. Andrew wanted to do traverse north to south without supplemental oxygen. This to be his last climb of his multi-year project. I have no official word from Andrew as to his plans but Gavin has now switched to Annapurna and still hopes to attempt the Double one day. Bill and David will be climbing with Asian Trekking. I wish all these climbers the of luck on all their efforts. Climb On! Alan