Everest 2013: Base Camp Puja
The teams climbing from the Tibet side have now left Kathmandu. According to Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies, > the delay in crossing the border was due to lack of “vehicles available for all the groups to enter around the same time so they have staggered the entry dates.” Climbers and trekkers are required to hire a 4WD vehicle, typically a Land Cruiser, along with a Chinese driver from the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA). This driver will be with the team all the way to Base Camp where they will be handed over to a CTMA Liaison Officer. Early reports show only seven teams climbing from Tibet and 47 different teams have permits on the south side. I would break this down as a very rough estimate to be 47 teams, 500 climbers, 700+ Sherpas/Staff on the South and 7 teams, 90 climbers/125+ Sherpas/Staff Before the Climbing Begins As the teams continue to arrive at Everest Base Camp, they have some serious business to attend to before climbing – their Puja. Himalayan Ascent reports “Due to the unfortunate accident yesterday where a Sherpa (part of the route setting team) fell to his death into a crevasse, today’s ceremony was subdued” Eric Simonson, IMG, say his Sherpas are now ready to start the serious climbing after having their Puja: “Tomorrow we have 27 Sherpas headed to Camp 2 and 22 Sherpas headed to Camp 1 to start building those camps.” His climbers will continue their acclimatization schedules by returning down valley to climb on Lobuche Peak. Teams will start entering the Icefall for their first rotation around April 11th. But let’s look at the Puja ceremony a bit closer. Tim Rippel, Peak Freaks, posted this today on their Puja: Before any work begins on the mountain we’ll have a Puja ceremony, this ceremony is believed to make contact with divine Sagamartha (Mount Everest) and ask her for clear the passage for everyone, the Sherpa climbers will not climb before they are blessed, this will take place tomorrow morning so the trekkers can be part of it too. This is the most important blessing for our team; Western climbers, Sherpa climbers, food and equipment. Climbing boots and axes and crampons will be piled around the Stupa, it’s a moving experience for anyone who has had the opportunity to be part of one, the burning of juniper and the chant from Lama Mingma, the tossing of rice and drinking of chang (or beer) all adding to this magical and spiritual event. Of course there is also a monetary part to help support the local monasteries. And Dave Hahn, RMI, added this about their Puja: this day had auspicious written all over it. Our Sirdar Lam Babu consulted the Tibetan calendar and made a few calls. This was the day for our Puja ceremony. A lama was brought up from Pangboche and our Puja Stupa was made ready. Today was the day for the entire team to get together for a Buddhist ceremony asking the gods to look favorably on our expedition. The Pangboche lama was actually pretty busy as several other teams were similarly in need of blessing. The drums started beating and the cymbals started clashing for ours just after lunch on another big blue sky day. A number of Sherpas from neighboring teams joined us in our celebration. There were chants and prayers and various offerings of juniper smoke, food and drink. There were a number of things tossed into the sky and onto each other, principally rice and tsampa (barley flour) and a little chiang -a lightly fermented homemade rice wine with bits of orange. The climax of the ceremony begins with the Puja mast going up with strings of brightly colored prayer flags going out in all directions from it. Finally we all stand and toast each other, shake hands and ask each other to be careful on this climbing trip. The birds certainly enjoy the day as a whole flock of black Himalayan Chuffs (a little smaller than a crow) descend to get the spare offerings. We also enjoyed watching smaller sparrow and finch types joining in the festivities. The Puja The announcement is normally made at dinner, “Tomorrow we will have our Puja. Bring your harness, crampons, ice axes and anything sharp to the ceremony.” If you have never been to a Puja, your interest is now raised. Breakfast comes early as the cooks and Sherpas are anxious to start the ceremony. A large stone Stupa has already been erected primarily to hold the flag pole and to hold a picture of the Dali Lama. Blankets are laid out for the climbers to sit on during the long ceremony. The Sherpas are busy stringing the mulit-color prayer flags across the camp, all centered on the flag pole at the Stupa. Soon the sounds of the fluttering flags cover the entire camp. Each flag has different meaning: yellow-earth, green water, red-fire, white-air, blue-space. More Sherpas are busy starting a small juniper fire. The smoke will cover the entire camp. It is hazy, and fragrant. It marks the beginning of something special. This is not the last time to see this smoke. Every time before leaving Base Camp, each climber and Sherpa will pass by this same spot, letting the smoke from the juniper boughs cover them. Everyone takes their place on the blankets after resting their climbing tools against the Stupa. Part of the ceremony is to ask forgiveness for hurting Sagamartha with the sharp points of the tools. But the most important part is to ask permission to climb the mountain and for safe passage. The Lama begins with a low chant as he reads from the 300 year-old Tibetan prayer book. Everyone soon quiets down as the chanting occupies the entire team of Sherpas. Soon, a Sherpa laughs, others smile, the environment is respectful but not overly serious. One Sherpa begins to walk around offering bread, and chiang to everyone. It is OK not