Everest 2019: American Dead on Everest- Update
With huge crowds on Everest an accident occurred while descending between the summit and the Hillary Step, according to friends of the deceased. I was told by friends of the family that American Don Cash, 55 from Utah, apparently fell to his death on Wednesday May 22. He had two climbing Sherpas with him and was using Pioneer Adventures, a Nepali owned guide company out of Kathmandu This is the third death on Everest this season. Indian, Ravi Thakar, died after summiting while at the South Col and Irish climber, Seamus Sean Lawless, disappeared and is presumed dead from a fall between the Balcony and South Col near 8300-meters after his summit. A search team left today to try and recover his body. Overall there have been 12 deaths across the 8000-meters mountains just this spring climbing period. Update: more information is becoming available. It’s now reported that Don summited after an extremely long push, over 12 hours, and became unconscious on the descent. The sherpas performed CPR and were able to revive him. They then moved him to the Hillary Step where he was caught in a traffic jam for 2-3 hours. It was here that he passed out again and took his last breaths. His body is said not recoverable and friends add “his final resting place will probably exactly where he wanted.” My sincere condolences to his family and friends. Alan Memories are Everything!
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 4 Recap – First Tibet Summits
The rope team made the summit on the Tibet side and I’m being told there are no winds at Camp 3 as climbers are leaving for the summit on Wednesday night, May 22. Meanwhile over 200 people summited from Nepal on Wednesday morning. There were long waits reported from the Balcony to the South Summit. On the Tibet side, Adrian Ballinger proudly told me late This Wednesday night that their member who left the US only 12 days ago summited just behind the Chinese rope team: Alpenglow Lightning Ascent summited to day with rope fixers!!!!! 10 days in country an 12 days since leaving USA. Lydia and Roxanne along with Pasang and Mingma summited with rope fixers in light to moderate winds and warm temps. They are back down to c2 and continuing to abc tonight, Shegar tomorrow and USA on 24th. It worked! Nepal Many, many teams summited early Wednesday morning: IMG reported they got 19 climbers on the summit, 11 Sherpas and 8 members. Jagged Globe report all their team, not sure exactly how many but at least 7 with Sherpas CTSS: 14 members and 25 Sherpas: Peter Wilson – Australia Tracey Walters – USA Bruce Graham – USA Bill Baringer – USA Richard Wilson – United Kingdom Wayne Morris – United Kingdom Bill Baringer – USA Noriyuki Ishikawa – Japan Phei Sunn Sim – Singapore Aditi Vaidya – India Anuja Vaidya – India Juarez Gustavo Soares – Brazil Mariam Ktiri – Morocco Fahad Badar – Qatar with Private Guide Oswaldo Freire (Ecuador) & to our 25x incredibly strong and dedicated Sherpa (names to be published shortly) 15th May 2019 Mark Wilkins – USA + 2 Sherpa Seven Summits Treks put 17 on top: 1: Sun Yiquan (Leader) 2: Chang Jian 3: Fan Bo 4: Tang Feng 5: Yang Tao 6: Ge Shuiqin 7: Liu Yutong 8: Xu Jingmei 9: Harish Wu -USA 1: Sona Sherpa- Kathmandu 2: Tashi Sherpa-Makalu 9 3: Phurba Sherpa -Ramechhap 4: Ngima Dorchi Sherpa-Makalu 9 5: Ang Tenji Sherpa-Makalu 5 6: Pasang Nurbu Sherpa-Makalu 9 7: Pemba Thinduk Sherpa-Makalu 5 8: Nga Tashi Sherpa-Yaphu 9 And Kaitu Expedition with 28 1. Zhang Baolong 2. Yue wei 3. Yu shui 4. Mai Guiqing 5. Mao Jianong 6. Lu Haichuan 7. Wang Hui 8. Wang Zhen 9. Yin Shuai 10. Ru Zhigang 11. Li Huangying 12. Guo wenjing 13. Pema Chhiring Sherpa IFMGA 14. Mingma chhiri Sherpa IFMGA 15. Vinayak Jay Malla IFMGA 16. Suman Gurung Cameramen IFMGA 17. Dawa Tashi Sherpa 18. Ningma Dorjee Tamang 19. Ang Pemba sherpa 20. Ngawang Tenjing sherpa 21. Pasang Ngima sherpa 22. Pemba Chhiri sherpa 23. Pur Bhadur Gurung 24. Iman Gurung Guide 25. Kanchha Nuru sherpa 26. Pasang Sona sherpa 27. Ang Dawa sherpa 28. Bishnu Gurung clients Mirza Ali summited today making him the first Pakistani male climber to complete the Seven Summits. And Fatima Deryan and Ralph Kisso of Lebanon also summited. I note these because Everest summits by climbed from the Middle East has been rare, especially female climbers. Tibet – Ropes to Summit, No Winds Apparently, there was a crowd following the Chinese rope fixers through early Wednesday night. Summits are being reported by: Transcend – at least 4 members with Sherpas Adrian Ballinger, told me his late Wednesday night that they will wait a day to let the crowds thin out and “I’ll take wind over crowds” Teams that were expected to summit Wednesday included Chinese Team 7 Summits Club Adventure Peaks Summit Climb Climbaya Wave 5 Last Day of this Window Those were who were planning a push for a Thursday, May 23 summit include: Nepal – at South Col ~8,000m Adventure Consultants Benegas Brothers Dreamers Destination Friends of the Himalaya Madison Mountaineering Mountain Professionals IMG second team HST/Myrmidon second team Summit Climb – second team Tibet – at C3 ~8300m Chinese Team 360 Expeditions 7 Summits Club Furtenbach Kobler Summit Climb Follow the Climbers These climbers/teams are using GPS tracking devices so you can follow along: Tibet: Kobler & Partner Scott Woolums Nepal: Tim Mosedale Bruce Terry I do my best to track the teams I can during the summit push but don’t have direct communication with any of them or know the status of any individual. You can see what I am seeing on the tracker table. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything!
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 4 Underway – Tiny Window – Update 3
Update 3: IMG reports summits: Ms. Daphne de Jong Netherlands Sonam Tashi Sherpa Nepal Ms. Fatima Deryan Republic of Lebanon Ang Karma Sherpa Nepal Kami Sherpa Nepal Mr. Julien Andre Maurice Laurent France Mingma Dorjee Sherpa Nepal Mr. Ralph Kisso Republic of Lebanon Sonam Dorjee Sherpa Nepal Thunang Lhomi Nepal Mr. Ole Petter Thunes Norway Pasang Kami Sherpa Nepal Sona Chhiri Sherpa Nepal Ms. Charlotte Adrienne Austin USA Phinjo Dorji Sherpa Nepal Mr. Mark Ryan Ballard Canada Fura Gyalzen Sherpa Nepal Mr. Adam Michael Clark USA Jangbu Sherpa Nepal What we are seeing are the winds at different velocities at different altitudes. Update 2: from Alpenglow: “From 27,000 feet
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 3 Recap, Wave 4 Underway 250 Expected
Looks like the winds have finally dropped. Teams for both the Nepal and Tibet sides report calm conditions and summit pushes underway. Wave 3 Recap: Summits!!! There were many summits Tuesday morning May 21. I know of these: Dawa Steven Sherpa and the Asian Trekking team made the top Tuesday morning: The Eco Everest Expedition 2019 team along with our Mananging Director, Dawa Steven Sherpa and the climbing sherpa for the successful summit on Mt. Everest this morning and we wish them all a safe return Expedition Members Anita Devi – Indian Samer Akkad – Syrian Nicholas Simon Hollis – British Aliki Anastasopoulou – Greek Huadong Yan – Chinese Tang Qun – Chinese Dawa Steven Sherpa Samir Jung Thapa – Photographer High Altitude Climbing Sherpa Dajangbu Sherpa Sonam Chiring Sherpa Samden Bhote Pemba Tshering (Maila) Lakpa Nuru Sherpa Tshering Tashi Sherpa Shera Gyaljen Pasang Sherpa (Thamo) Karma Lama Da Furi Sherpa Guru Jenjen Bhot And 65 Degrees North, a team that seeks to help in the rehabilitation of wounded or damaged ex-service men and women by offering the opportunity to participate in challenging adventure, made the top Tuesday morning: Team EVEREST 2019: Top of the World!! The team are standing on top of the highest mountain in the World! Pushing themselves, mentally and physically, to the absolute limit was all worth it when Brendan, Scott, Joe and Tom all reached the summit of Mt Everest! For reasons of safety, Rich turned round just below the summit, a decision that would have been tough to make, but absolutely the right decision to make. Having battled fatigue, extreme temperatures, lack of oxygen and at times, their own patience, they can all be extremely proud of their achievements. The team will now start their immediate descent back to safety and photos from the summit will follow soon!!! And without details on who he was with, Kami Rita Sherpa is reported to have summited for the second time this season for a record 24th time. Next Wave: 250++ from Nepal Side Jagged Globe is underway expecting to summit Wednesday morning May 22: The Everest team are about to leave the South Col at 1930 local time. David expects it to be a long summit day (his InReach most likely won’t have enough battery for the entire climb). Teams have been leaving the South Col every hour since 1500hrs. There could be as many as 250 people going for the summit tonight. Those were who were planning to move to Camp 3 or to the South Col today for a Wednesday, May 22 summit include: Adventure Consultants Asian Trekking Climbing the Seven Summits (at South Col) Dreamers Destination Friends of the Himalaya Jagged Globe (at South Col) Madison Mountaineering Mountain Professionals Pioneer Adventures Summit Climb IMG Tibet – No Winds! The rope team is at 27,000-feet/8230-meters along with the Alpenglow Team leading the push to the summit in good weather. Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow, gave me this update on his late Tuesday night: First wave alpenglow summit push tonight with Tibetan rope fixers!!!!!! Groups moving from c2 and c3. Not a drop of wind at 8300m since 1pm! Fingers crossed! Rope fixers fixed to second step today in great conditions, returned to 8300 at 4pm. Will fix to summit early tomorrow if winds remain low Furtenbach Adventures are making progress: Flash team reached Camp2 at around 7.800m today and is heading for Camp 3 (8.300m) tomorrow! Classic team one day behind now at North Col (7.000) and aiming for Camp 2 tomorrow! Weather is fine, everyone in the team healthy and very motivated to finally conquer that mountain after this waiting game! Many teams are moving up from ABC to the North Col and higher. They include: Chinese Team 360 Expeditions7 Summits Treks Alpenglow Adventure Peaks Furtenbach Kobler Summit Climb I do my best to track the teams I can during the summit push but don’t have direct communication with any of them or know the status of any individual. You can see what I am seeing on the tracker table. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything!
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 3 Summits and Delays – Update 1
Update 1: Summit Climb reports summits with no names or detail: “Today 1st Team reach at the Summit. Congratulations. Have safe down. 2nd Team reach at Camp 3. Wish them best up luck.” The winds on Everest are sporadic as the jet stream wobbles nearby. This is one of the toughest weeks in recent memory. Some teams already at the South Col postponed their summit plans but some went on to summit the morning of May 21, 2019. The ropes are still not to the summit on the Tibet side. Once again, this is when you want to be with an experienced leader who has made difficult decisions on Everest for many years. NOTE: I will update this post as I get new information Wobbly Jet As Meteorologists Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions told me over the weekend “The jet will definitely weaken but it will wobble back and forth.” We are seeing this very event now with moments of high winds and low winds. Operational Meteorologist Michael Fagin at Everest Weather gave me the weather money quote of the week:”This a very wild week. Tiny window, lots of climbers” A beautiful picture from 7 Summits Club of the Tibet side of Everest: Summits!!! Just in that there are summits on Tuesday morning, May 21, 2o19. The first person from Syria, Samer Akkad, summited at 5.24 this morning with Asian Trekking. Note that Asian Trekking is one of the oldest and most respected Sherpa/Nepali owned guide companies in Nepal. Others summits were by “2 Greek, 1 Briton, 1 Syrian, 1 Indian, 2 Chinese, and 2 Nepalese, plus Sherpa” according to the home team for Samer. And 65 Degrees North, a team that seeks to help in the rehabilitation of wounded or damaged ex-service men and women by offering the opportunity to participate in challenging adventure, made the top Tuesday morning: Team EVEREST 2019: Top of the World!! The team are standing on top of the highest mountain in the World! Pushing themselves, mentally and physically, to the absolute limit was all worth it when Brendan, Scott, Joe and Tom all reached the summit of Mt Everest! For reasons of safety, Rich turned round just below the summit, a decision that would have been tough to make, but absolutely the right decision to make. Having battled fatigue, extreme temperatures, lack of oxygen and at times, their own patience, they can all be extremely proud of their achievements. The team will now start their immediate descent back to safety and photos from the summit will follow soon!!! And without details on who he was with, Kami Rita Sherpa is reported to have summited for the second time this season for a record 24th time. Nepal A Funnel for Summits If you missed this in my previous post, Gyanendra Shrestha, a representative of the Ministry of Tourism who stays at base camp and tries to track who climbs, posted this schedule on May 20 which has surely has changed becoming even more compressed probably around May 22: * May 21 : 122 people * May 22 : 297 people * May 23 : 172 people * May 24 : alternative option for big group But there is quite a discrepancy on how the leaders are interpreting the weather and the forecast at the South Col with some pushing while others stay back. Delays Several team positioned at the South Col have delayed their summit bid 24 hours as high winds made it too dangerous in their view. Two of the most experienced western guides made their call on Monday. David Hamilton of Jagged Globe made two posts with hours: Summit bid postponed 18:57 GMT, 20/May/19: Summit bid postponed due to high winds. Will stay at C4 and try tomorrow night – David Hamilton Teams in Camp 411:23 GMT, 20/May/19; All climbers have arrived in their respective Camp 4s (Everest and Lhotse). It took 6.5 hours for us to climb from from Camp 3 to the South Col. Conditions were OK for travel, but it is currently (1315 local time) a bit blustery on the South Col. We’re hoping for good summit conditions tomorrow. First off, it cold on the summit of Mount Everest! With the jet wobbling around today, teams are pushing hard to summit and get back down. Usually it is a week long process: And Mike Hammil’s CTSS team made a similar choice earlier on Monday: A quick update for you to let you know that the team at the South Col are going to hold there for the day due to high winds. They will continue to rest and let the winds die down a little and commence their bid tomorrow. Cautious To say the guides are nervous is an understatement. You can feel the tension in this post from the Benegas Brothers who are on their summit push: The Team is resting at Camp Two, still, we are checking all weather forecasts for the region trying to decipher witch date and time will be the best, We have a narrow window running from the 22 May to May 24, Winds will start to increase on the 24 afternoon. Current conditions to be taking into consideration. 2019 is a record year regarding numbers of climbers, and with this narrow weather opening, we are extremely concerned about large crowds of climbers on the difficult terrain of South Summit Rock Steps and section from South Summit to Top of Hilary Step, this last section is extremely difficult to pass climbers with a narrow ridgeline, intercalated by short but steep rock steps. Is here where serious traffic jams normally occurred. Being super proactive and keep a strong eye on deciding how and when to move. Winds speed and directions make a big difference in the success but as well the overall strength of the team and how Damian manages the possible traffic jams. Oxygen For many climbers, this is their first experience using supplemental oxygen. By the way, this is one of 4,982 reasons I strongly suggest getting experience on a lower 8000er before attempting Everest. Anyway,
Everest 2019: Summit Wave 3 – Cold for 14 on Top
There were 14 summits of this next, and perhaps next to last, window of the spring 2019 season early Monday morning, May 20, 2019. Meanwhile literally hundreds of other climbers are moving up the gauntlet of camps getting ready for their time on the summit. Its Summit Madness! Big Picture First off, it cold on the summit of Mount Everest! With the jet wobbling around today, teams are pushing hard to summit and get back down. Usually it is a week long process: Nepal Camp Altitude Gain/Loss Tibet Camp Altitude Gain/Loss Day 0 EBC 17,500′ 5,334 m CBC 17,000′ 5,182 m Day 1 Camp 2 21,000′ 6400m +3,500′ 1, 066 m ABC 21,300′ 6,492 m +4,300′ 1,310 m Day 2 Camp 2 ABC Day 3 Camp 3 23,500′ 7,162 m +2,500 762 m North Col 23,000′ 7,000 m +1,700′ 518 m Day 4 South Col 26,300′ 8,016 m +2,800′ 853 m Camp 2 24,750′ 7,500 m +1,750′ 533 m Day 5 Summit 29,035′ 8,850 m +2,735′ 833 m Camp 3 27,390′ 8,300 m +2,640′ 804 m Day 6 Camp 2 21,000′ 6400m -8,035′ 2,449 m Summit 29,035′ 8,850 m +1,645′ 501 m Day 7 EBC 17,500′ 5,334 m -3,500′ 1, 068 m ABC 21,300′ 6,492 m – 7,735′ 2,357 m Day 8 CBC 17,000′ 5,182 m -4,300′ 1,310 m As you can see, summit night on the Tibet side is bit shorter due to starting higher, at 27,390′ / 8,300 m compared to 26,300′ / 8,016 m from the South Col. This is why many feel the summit night on the Tibet side is a bit easier, but the winds are the wildcard. Most years, the Tibet side has higher winds as there is nothing blocking them coming from the North. Now the big question is what the jet and winds will bring to both sides. The best companies on both sides have paid for 2 or more professional weather forecasters and are not using free Internet sites. However, secrets on Everest are like those on a reality game show where everyone knows everything. A few days ago the winds after the 20th looked to be calm for as long as 5, even 9 days, but now may split into two separate ones. So this means some teams will push hard to get the summit on May 21/22/23 and others will go during May 26/27/28. In any event, we are getting closer to the end of May and the end of the season for most. There is growing concern about so many people in such a short window with such cold temperatures. Now is when climbing with a highly experienced team is critical to both summiting and surviving. I do my best to track the teams I can during the summit push but don’t have direct communication with any of them or know the status of any individual. You can see what I am seeing on the tracker table. Nepal Monday, May 20 Summits Mingma Sherpa’s Imagine Nepal got seven members on the summit plus seven Sherpas. They were the only summits on Monday morning to my knowledge but there may have been a few others. My 7 members and 7 Sherpa successfully summit Mt.Everest today morning. Huge Huge congratulation to my Everest Team.1. Flampouri christina -greece, 2. pranay bandbuch-india, 3. jia lin chang-China 4. liu yongzhong-China 5. zeng hui wen-China 6. wang xue feng-China 7. Dawa tenzin sherpa -Nepal 8. Tamting sherpa -Nepal 9. lakpa tamang -Nepal 10.Dawa gyalje sherpa -Nepal 11. Phurba chhotar sherpa -Nepal 12. Dendi Sherpa -Nepal. 6 members and 6 sherpa summited at 7:15 am. 13. Archontidou vasiliki-greece 14.Kili Pemba sherpa -Nepal 1 member and 1 sherpa summited at 8:00 AM. Tuesday May 21 Attempts: It looks like the winds still may be higher than some guide prefer. Mike Hammil’s Climbing The Seven Summits (CTSS) home team said they are at the a windy South Col: A quick update for you to let you know that the team at the South Col are going to hold there for the day due to high winds. They will continue to rest and let the winds die down a little and commence their bid tomorrow. Note that can only do this due to careful planning that if they need to spend an extra night, they will have sufficient food, fuel and, most important, supplemental oxygen. If a team has not prepared, this is not an option and they either do a very risky summit attempt or retreat to Camp 2 or below. Most members only get one shot at the summit. Oh, and there are no refunds! Each year, Gyanendra Shrestha, a representative fo the Ministry of Tourism stays at base camp and tries to track who climbs when. He does’t really manage anything but helps with coordination and communication back to Kathmandu. He is key to help manage deaths. On his Facebook page he posted late today: * May 21 : 122 people * May 22 : 297 people * May 23 : 172 people * May 24 : alternative option for big group Teams looking summit Tuesday, May 21 morning and are at the South Col on the Nepal side include: Summit Climb Jagged Globe 65 degrees North Climbing the Seven Summits (postponed to 22 due to wind) Those were who were planning to move to Camp 3 or to the South Col today for a Wednesday, May 22 summit include: Adventure Consultants Asian Trekking Climbing the Seven Summits Dreamers Destination Friends of the Himalaya Madison Mountaineering Mountain Professionals Pioneer Adventures Summit Climb Nirmal Purja ‘Nirmal Purja’ Purja and team is at Camp 2 to summit Everest, Makalu and Lhotse within a span of three days, beating his previous record of five days and 10 hours. He posted on Instagram: @Nirmal Purjadai and team are currently at Camp 2. With the plan to be at Camp 4 tomorrow morning and summit of Everest and Lhotse on the 22nd (weather dependent). @Nimraldai reports that there is already heavy traffic as more than 200 climbers
Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 19
Last week was important for climbers across the Himalayan. The ropes were fixed to the summit on four separate 8000-meter mountains all on the same day, May 14, 2019. This was historic in that it has never happened on so many peaks on the same day. With that, many peaks, including Everest, were summited in cold temperatures but manageable winds. Then something else historic occurred. Seven climbers lost their lives and three went missing, presumed dead. Add in one more death on Annapurna two weeks earlier, it totals 11 deaths and this is even before the largest summit push in history on Everest that begins early next week. The deaths occurred on Everest, Cho Oyu, Annapurna, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse. They have included one Sherpa, two climbers not using supplemental oxygen and five Indian climbers. Each weekend during the season I’ll post a “Weekend Update” summarizing the main stories for the past week. Headlines The jet finally moved off the summit of Everest long enough for a very strong team of Sherpas to fix the ropes to the summit on the Nepal side. While a bit late being on May 15, it was still not the latest. In 2014 they made the summit on May 23. Most years since 2009, the ropes were in during the second week of May. Meanwhile this year, a week after the ropes reached the summit on the Nepal side, they still are not there on the Tibet side. With the ropes in, a few aggressive teams positioned at Camp 2 or higher, over 100 people soon made the summit in what was forecasted as a narrow two day window that actually turned into three. But when it slammed shut as the jet returned, teams looked ahead to May 20th and on for the next suitable period of low winds. And that’s where we are this Sunday. However the big unknown is if the pesky jet will make a another appearance in mid-week spoiling all the plans. Literally hundreds of climbers are betting they can get the summit this week and are staged high today ready to go at a moments notice. Oxygen bottles, tents, food, stoves and fuel have all been cached at the camps where the summit bids will start from the South Col on the Nepal side and the North Col on the Tibet side. At this point, anything can happen so this week will define the Everest 2019 season … along with a string of tragic deaths across the Himalayan 8000ers that, in my opinion, most could have been avoided. A beautiful image from Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering at Camp 2. They will go for their bid this week. Jet Stream – Wobbly until 22-24 This site indicates the jet will move away starting Monday, May 20th but may return in a few days. But as I always advise, using internet forecast is no substitute for paying a human for a professional forecast. Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions commented on the jet stream situation: The biggest summit window of the season is here. I’ll echo the words of meteorologist Marc De Keyser that while it’s a window it’s not wide open. Why? The jet will definitely weaken but it will wobble back and forth. There will be periods of dead calm summit winds mixed with brief spikes in wind. And, this kind of pattern can mean important differences in wind on the North side of Everest versus South. Timing the keyhole drops will be critical. The first big wind drop occurred on the 19th with another to follow on the 20th. The sweet spot may very well be 22-24. Then the jet slams the summit. The period after is less certain regarding jet positioning. I see no signs of the Monsoon at this point before the 28th. Everest Nepal – 100+ Summits, 2 Deaths It was mostly a good week on the Nepal side of Mt. Everest. The first summits in the Everest/Lhotse/Nuptse Horseshoe were on Lhotse by Mingma Sherpa’s Imagine Nepal 12 person team. Christina Flampouri became the first Greek woman and Sirbaz Khan became First Pakistani to summit Lhotse. A large Indian Army, Chinese and an International team all from Seven Summits treks summited. Kami Rita Sherpa who broke his own record with his 23rd on Everest, will do another effort this upcoming week for his 24th. Also a team from Satori and Climbing the Seven Summits. Kenton Cool got his 14th summit. Saray N’kusi Khumalo became the first black woman from Africa to summit. The first African American woman to summit Everest was Sophia Danenberg in 2006. In the department of outstanding efforts, Myrmidon Expeditions’s team of Kirstie Ennis, Rob Gowler, and Christopher Paul along with the support of climbing Sherpas (Sange Sherpa – climbing lead, Dharche Bhote, and Chhebi Bhote) turned back around 8600-meters/28,215-feet due to reportedly running out of time. Kristie posted this video along with a promise to return: I gave Everest Hell, and she gave it right back. More details to come soon, but time and oxygen wasn’t in our favor. We spun at 8684 m. (28,490 ft). Tough call being so close to the top, but it wasn’t worth anyone’s injury or death. God bless the ten lives lost this season in the Himalayas already. Thank you guys for all of the love and support. Everest round two coming soon…
Everest 2019: Next Summit Waves Prepare
Teams are staged at high camps just waiting for the green light from their weather forecasters. It is a mixed bag on both sides with howling winds on the Tibet side, and relative calm on the Nepal where the first summit may happen on Monday, May 20. The ropes are still not to the summit on the Tibet side. Big Picture Now that we are a day or two away from the next window, many questions remain. The biggest question is just how long will this wind be. In other words, how long will the winds stay low per what each guide considers a safe speed before leading their members higher. Most consider 30mph/48kph to be their upper limit, others are a bit more allowing for the difficulty they put their members through! A few days ago the winds after the 20th looked to be calm for as long as 5, even 9 days, but now may split into two separate ones. So this means some teams will push hard to get the summit on May 21/22/23 and others will go during May 26/27/28. In any event, we are getting closer to the end of May and the end of the season for most. It’s a tense time. I do my best to track the teams I can during the summit push but don’t have direct communication with any of them or know the status of any individual. You see what I see on the tracker table. IMG on the Nepal side sums it up well for everyone as of Saturday, May 18: The winds for tomorrow are forecasted to be dropping, which can make the Cwm quite warm when the sun hits, so our climbers at Camp 1 will leave early tomorrow morning to beat the heat on the way to Camp 2. The climbers who went all the way up to Camp 2 had a great day of climbing today and are looking forward to a rest day tomorrow. We are keeping our eyes on the weather forecast, which continues to have the winds dropping over the next few days. Jake Norton, expert mountaineer, photographer and general great guy, made another in his series of outstanding updates as he is on the Tibet side. In this one he finds a piece of “trash”. Please read his entire short post on Facebook: A simple piece of wire. Looks like trash, and in many ways it is, mere jetsam from days past. But, it is much more, with a story. In 1933, the 4th British Mount Everest Expedition ran telephone wire some 14 miles from Basecamp up to Camp IV at the North Col to enable better communications for the team. Bits and pieces of this wire artifact have been popping out along the route for the 20 years I’ve been climbing here. Trash, yes, but also a story, a connection to the past, a reminder of those who came before. Nepal – Staged at C2, Waiting for No Winds Base Camp is just about empty as many teams are targeting their summit bid for May 21 but it may be a day or two later. They include: Adventure Consultants Asian Trekking Climbing the Seven Summits Dreamers Destination Friends of the Himalaya Jagged Globe Imagine Nepal Madison Mountaineering Pioneer Adventures Summit Climb Adventure Consultants reported on Friday morning there were 2 large groups, one with 40 people at Crampon Point at the base of the Khumbu Icefall. Everyone is headed to Camp 2 for the next move. If you look at the tracker table, you can visually see how empty EBC is. Dreamer’s Destination left for their summit bid: This morning at 2:08am our team started their journey from Everest Base Camp (5300m) for final summit push and arrived at camp 2 (6300m) around 1pm. We wish them all them a very good luck. We want to see you happy, healthy and successful!!! May Buddha always bless you! As did Mingma Sherpas’ Imagine Nepal who will probably be the first team to summit in this window on Monday morning, May 20. Today all our 8 clients reached camp3. Tomorrow we’ll climb to camp4 and make final summit push. 2 Greece women , 1 Indian boy and 5 Chinese are doing great and it looks we are the single team try Everest on 20 may. I liked this from Peter Wilson with CTSS: The time has come. This afternoon we received our weather forecasts and conditions look favourable for an attempt on the top later in the week. Tomorrow morning we ask Sagarmatha her blessing for one last journey along her side, as we set back off up the mountain with the aim of reaching the summit. They say your goals should frighten you. Well, I can unashamedly say this mountain scares the shit out of me. However, I’ve prepared for years, I’ve surrounded myself with the best and I feel I’m more than ready. I’m extremely proud that I’ve been able to put myself into position to attempt Mt Everest. Who would of thought a boy from Gilgandra, may have the opportunity to stand on the roof of the world. Thank you all for the well wishes, across all platforms. I haven’t been able to respond to many but I’ve read most and appreciate the effort everyone has gone to. I’ll be harnessing all your positive thoughts over the coming week. For anyone who wants to make themselves nervous, the CTSS blog will be keeping track of the summit push throughout the week and update where we all are on the mountain. Let’s get this done. Tibet – Holding at CBC, Staged at ABC, Waiting on Winds and Ropes Some teams are staged at Advanced Base Camp for their summit push as the rope fixers are expected too go back at work in what is still difficult conditions. Most of these teams continue to look at their summit bid for May 21 but it may be a day or two later. The teams at ABC include: 7 Summits Treks Alpenglow
Too Many Deaths – Opinion
A horribly disturbing trend is showing all the signs of coming to full life this spring season across the world’s highest peaks. Thus far, 10 11 people have died on six 8000-meters peaks in Nepal and Tibet. And the main Everest pushes have not begun. About 110 people have summited thus far with another 700 to 800 on both sides going up next week. I’ve been talking about the trend of inexperienced climbers with unqualified guides for many years now. My fear has been that with all the success seen on these big peaks, combined with operators offering low prices that it has in-fact attracted a new category of person who simply doesn’t know what they don’t know. Combine that with a lack of qualified support, when trouble happens it falls on the shoulders of a few to react. And often it is simply impossible. As I will cover in this opinion piece, I believe there are three reasons for all these deaths: greed, ignorance and ego. Greed greed, noun: intense and selfish desire for something, especially wealth, power, or food. For decades the big mountains were guided by mostly Western companies who had a system honed over years of using Western guides, having doctors at base camp and the same Sherpas each year. It was/is a tight knit team that could safely take mostly experienced clients safely to the summit and back. They charged high prices, $45,000 to $65,000. A few Nepali based guides had similar performance (and prices) and, while there were still deaths each year, around five, the deaths were viewed as part of the risk of mountaineering and not incompetence. A pivotal moment in the Nepal guiding industry occurred after the 2014 ice serac release the killed 16 Sherpas in the Khumbu Icefall. It lit a smoldering fire in a few young Sherpas that had begun in 2012 when many Sherpa were killed on Manaslu. This younger generation felt they were being exploited, underpaid and they needed to take the mountains back from the western operators. At time around 80% of all 8000-meter summited were guided by foreign companies. Today, in 2019 that number has dropped to 20%. These new companies competed on price. They had slick websites promoting their leadership with 5, 10, 15 or more Everest summits. They offered wifi, good food, spacious tents – in other words everything the western companies did, but at half the price. The market was there and reacted aggressively, especially from India and China. The low cost came from the new Nepali/Sherpa guides paying their own staff lower wages than the western operators. They did not use expensive (and experienced) western guides. They felt they didn’t need training or excess staffing. They simply offered a potential client a spot on the permit, a tent on the mountain and a Sherpa guide. Little vetting and little oversight. The model worked well – as far as getting business. Ignorance ignorance, noun: lack of knowledge or information: he acted in ignorance of basic procedures. The clients bought this new model hook, line and sinker. They believed everything they were told and seduced by the romantic image of the Sherpa culture. They believed even the most unbelievable marketing: “If you want to experience what it feels like to be on the highest point on the planet and have strong economic background to compensate for your old age, weak physical condition or your fear of risks, you can sign up for the VVIP Mount Everest Expedition Service offered by Seven Summit Treks and Expeditions.” They read the stories and articles that “Everest had a sidewalk to the summit.” And “Anyone can summit.” They believed the marketing of Nepal the every Sherpa was a “Sherpa Guide.” – something the Nepal Ministry of Tourism instituted to address growing safety concerns. It was like saying every person in a plane is a pilot. The operators began to increase the staffing, drawing new Sherpas or Nepal ethnic groups that had little to no experience on 8000-meter peaks. The clients didn’t understand the distinction. They never did their own research, only became excited to join the ranks of Messner, Viesturs and Bonnington. A false equivalency if there ever was one. When told they needed to climb a series of ever-higher, more difficult peaks before their first 8000er or Everest, they scoffed and said they didn’t have the time or money for such an investment. They Googled “low-cost Everest climb” or for Cho Oyu, Annapurna, Makalu, Kanchenjunga or Lhotse and received 43 million hits in 0.84 seconds. Their hearts raced that they could climb Everest and not have to take out a second mortgage their house. The death rate on Everest has gone down dramatically this century but that is because of the old-school Western operators that pioneered the commercial model of using known routes, reliable oxygen, qualified support and vetted potential clients as to temperament and experience. But even the best guides shied away from the extremely difficult 8000ers: Annapurna, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, K2. They knew there were limits to their formula. If they did run those trips, they were small, tightly controlled and highly experienced. But this new generation of climbers, eager to bag the top and brag back home, didn’t know enough to understand the difference between climbing Everest and Makalu. They joined a random team of individuals with shared logistics for an independent climb. They didn’t understand the word “independent.” And had no experience to evaluate the risks. Ego ego, noun: a person’s sense of self-esteem or self-importance: a boost to my ego. Climbing mountains requires a higher than usual ego. You must have high confidence in yourself and the strength to push hard. This year, 2019, has seen deaths of some of the finest young climbers in a generation. On peaks like Nanga Parbat or Mount Howse in Canada. These young men were pushing the limits on routes known for the challenge, and the danger. They knew what they were getting into and choose to take the risk. Similar, this year, 2019, on the 8000ers there have been deaths of experienced climbers attempting, and sometimes summiting, while pushing the limits. Their websites and social media (and occasional sponsor) wrote about their conquests using terms like “without supplemental oxygen,” or “no
Everest 2019: Quiet after 3 Successful and 10 Dead Thus Far
As the first weather window closed, there have been many summits but also a tragic series of deaths, missing climbers and frostbite and evacuations. The air temperatures have been very cold, even with manageable winds across the Himalaya the last few days. Big Picture As expected, once the ropes were set to the summits, climbers took advantage of a two or three day window of reasonable winds to go on their summit pushes. Everest has now over 110 summits of the roughly 700 humans (members and support) who are expected to make a push. The remaining climbers are preparing leave base camp for the next window starting after May 20th or 21st. For many, these last few days brought to life their dreams, and fears and tested their families all at the same time. Congratulations to all on the Hills and back at home sending love and support. One disturbing trend already this season are the incidents. There have been seven deaths and two climbers are missing on multiple peaks: Cho Oyu, Annapurna, Makalu and today, Kanchenjunga with two Indian climbers. Also today, one Everest climber on an independent Seven Summits Treks team lead by Noel Hanna was found dead in his tent at the South Col, Ravi Thakar, and Irish climber Seamus Sean Lawless, 39, on a team lead by Noel Hanna is missing now heard dead. High winds have stopped any search Friday, May 17. Update: Makalu Xtreme, Lhotse: Ivan Yuriev Tomov, died in tent at high camp after no Os’/support summit In addition, there have been climbers and Sherpas hurt by rock fall, falls down the Lhotse Face and many, many altitude related cases treated by EverestER. Sadly, all of these incidents suggest a level of inexperience and inadequate support for the new demographics of climber across the 8000-meters peaks. I have done my best to list all the summits by company thus far this season. You can see individual names by clicking on the common name on the tracker table. If I missed someone, please let me know. Nepal – 110++ Summits Everest Arun NSG Indian Army: 7 members, 7 Sherpas Ascent Himalaya: 5 members, 7 Sherpas Satori Adventures: 4 members, 7 Sherpas Madison Mountaineering: 2 members, 3 Sherpas Seven Summit Treks International Everest Expedition: 8 members, 7 Sherpas (Ravi Thakar, India, dead inside his tent at C4, Seamus Sean Lawless, 39, missing) Seven Summit Treks Chinese Everest Expedition: 15 members, 13 Sherpas Seven Summits Treks: 15 Chinese summits Peak Promotion: 1 member, 1 Sherpa Pioneer Adventure: 1 member, 2 Sherpa Previously a team of 8 Sherpas fixed the ropes to the summit. Everest Outlook Teams that have left Everest Base Camp – Nepal for their summit bid targeting May 21 but it may be a day or two later. They include: Madison Mountaineering Jagged Globe Friends of the Himalaya Summit Climb Imagine Nepal Climbing the Seven Summits Asian Trekking: The dates are set. Tonight at 2:00am I am heading up from #everestbasecamp for our summit push. I have split the Asian Trekking teams into 3 waves, aiming to #summit on the 21st, 22nd and 23rd of May. If the gods allow it, I will be leading the first wave and hope to stand on the top on the 21st! I plan to stay an extra day after the summit at the South Col to support the 2nd and 3rd waves as they too make their way up! Everything is set, all the members and Sherpas are rested and strong, the weather forecasts are good, so now we just pray. ‘Om Ah Hung Vajra Guru Pema Siddhi Hung!’ Tibet – Quiet Teams are prepping for a post May 20 effort but are frustrated by the Chinese rope fixing team. Some teams are leaving Chinese Base camp this weekend. Others 8000ers Lhotse – 20+ Cha Tours (Lhotse): 3 members, 1 Sherpa (they fixed the ropes) Imagine Nepal (Lhotse): 7 members, 5 Sherpas Makalu – 42+ Seven Summits Treks International: 5 members, 2 Sherpas Altitude Junkies summited at 3:30:Phil Crampton with “Margret” Watroba Seven Summits Treks’s Indian Army: 16 members, 13 Sherpas (Narayan Singh died of altitude illness at 8200m) Pioneer Adventures: 4 members, 4 Sherpas Peak Promotion: 1+ Previously a team of 5 Sherpas fixed the ropes to the summit. Kanchenjunga – 28+ Peak Promotion: 5 members, 5 Sherpas (Biplab Baidya (48) and Kuntal Karar (46) died and Rodrigo Vivanco missing and Two Indian climbers and a German mountaineer were evacuated with serious frostbite Seven Summits Treks/ Elite Himalayan Adventures: Mission Project Possible 14/7: 3 Sherpas Seven Summits Treks: Internationals 5 members, 8 Sherpas Shangri-La Nepal Treks: 1 member, 3 Sherpas Previously a team of 6 Sherpas fixed the ropes to the summit. Dhaulagiri Seven Summits Treks/ Elite Himalayan Adventures: Mission Project Possible 14/7: 3 Sherpas Annapurna – 32 Seven Summits Treks International: 15 members, 17 Sherpas (Dr. Chin died) Best of luck to all the climbers as we look at the next window. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything!