Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 18: Windy Summits and Death

The week started well, but when the winds picked up, as forecasted, teams took risky chances that turned deadly. Now, with a better forecast, hundreds of climbers are positioned to summit over the next few days. Tibet-side teams are in place and looking at summit plans. #everest2024
Everest 2024: Missing Everest Climbers Confirmed Dead, More Summits

Expedition operator 8k Expeditions found the bodies of their clients Usukhjargal Tsedendamba, 31, near the South Summit, around 8,550m and his climbing partner, Purevsuren Lkhagvajav, 53, near the Balcony at 8400 meters. More climbers summited on May 13th and 15th, taking the total to 97 Everest summits from the Nepal side and the Tibetan rope team on the Tibet side. #everest2024
Everest 2024: Risky Decision Making

High winds were in the forecast from multiple services and internet sites, but some teams either didn’t believe them or ignored them and made a summit push on Tuesday, May 15 – around fifty people turned back, and two climbers have been missing for days. Almost every team is targeting this weekend for their summit push; thus, we can anticipate significant crowding. #everest2024
Everest 2024: Everest Climbers Missing on Summit Push

Multiple media outlets report that two Mongolian climbers are missing. Usukhjargal Tsedendamba, 31 and Purevsuren Lkhagvajav, 53, were using base camp-only services from 8K Expeditions and climbing together without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support. They left for the summit from the South Col at 8:45 a.m. on May 13 and haven’t been heard from since. High winds were reported at 70-80 kmh/45-50 mph. A search team has been dispatched by 8K. #everest2024
Everest 2024: More Summits, More Death

As many as fifty people made the summit of Everest on Monday morning, May 13th. Nearby, Lhotse also saw summits. Teams arrived at the base camp on the Tibet side, while a French climber sadly lost his life on Makalu. Winds are coming, so the action will slow for a few days. #everest2024
Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 13: First Summits

The first summiteers on Everest marked the beginning of the climbing rush. The rope fixers summited a few days ago, and over thirty-five climbers summited today. Two climbers added to their summit collections to extend their records. Teams arrived at up base camp on the Tibet side, while a respected Sherpa sadly lost his life on Makalu. We’re now entering the summit phase of the spring climbing season. #everest2024
Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Part 16–Home and The End

The final chapters of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, Part 15, drop today with chapters 49 and 50. I’ll continue my annual coverage as usual.
Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I’ll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.
In Part 16, our protagonist, Harper wrapped her arms around Claudia, watching the helicopter disappear over the top lip of the Khumbu Icefall, Pablo gently swinging from a rope hanging from the belly of the chopper.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
Everest 2024: Rope Team Summits Nepal Side–Game On!

Sherpas had fixed the route to the summit on the Nepal side as of 8:35 p.m., May 10—exactly when they predicted about a week ago. This opens the Southeast Ridge to about 600 people, clients and support, to make their summit attempts. The Tibetan rope-fixing team summited on May 7, opening that side to about 100 climbers. #everest2024
Everest 2024: Interview with Uphill Athlete’s Founder Steve House

You know you’ve made your name in the climbing world when Reinhold Messner calls you “the best high-altitude climber in the world.” Today, Steve runs one of the most successful broad-based coaching services. Uphill Athlete, founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston in 2014, has become synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running and mountaineering to ski racing. I caught up with Steve for a wide-ranging Podcast.
Everest 2024: First 8000er Death

We have the first death on an 8000-meter peak of the season; a Sherpa with Seven Summits Trek died while descending from Makalu’s summit. Teams are getting in position for Nepal side summits while more teams enter Tibet for Everest. Remember that both Cho Oyu and Shishapangma are closed to foreigners for climbing this spring. #everest2024