Everest 2023: American Dies at Camp 2
An American, Jonathan Sugarman, 69, died at Camp 2 on Everest on Tuesday, May 1, 2023. He was climbing with International Mountain Guides. The retired MD from the Seattle area trained diligently for the expedition and was feeling well. Last year, he summited Lobuche and Island Peak and reached Camp 3 on Everest. #everest2023
Everest 2023: Record Permits, Acclimatizations Underway
It’s mid-season, and there are mixed results on the ‘other’ 8000ers and a lot of movement on Everest. The ropes are now at the South Col, and the rope team estimates tagging the summit around May 10, depending on the weather. This is slower than previous estimates. Let’s take a look at acclimatization and climbing the Lhotse Face.
Everest 2023: Miracle Rescues on Annapurna
In what can only be described as a miracle, Anurag Maloo, 34, was found barely alive deep in a crevasse. He disappeared three days earlier. Polish climbers Adam Bielecki, and Mariusz Hatala descended into the crevasse and found him. He was flown to Pokhara and then to Kathmandu and is in critical condition. Bielecki was on Annapurna trying a different route when he heard of the situation. #everest2023
Everest 2023: Deaths and Rescues on Annapurna
On the tenth highest mountain, Annapurna, 26,545 feet, at least one person has died, another is missing and over five needed to be rescued at 24,000 feet. Poor weather was part of the problem, and high winds and heavy snow are in the forecast for this weekend. #everest2023
Everest 2023: First Deaths of Season
Debris from an apparent serac release off Everest’s west shoulder has taken the lives of three Sherpas in the Khumbu Icefall. They were part of the rope team ferrying gear to begin fixing the route from Camp 2 to the summit. Searchers are said to have located their bodies but have not recovered them, but early information is often wrong. #everest2023
Everest 2023: Himalayan Update and “Records”
A few teams have reached Everest Base Camp, but most are still trekking or acclimatizing on Trekking Peaks like Lobuche, Mera or Island Peak. Camps are being established in the Western Cwm. Look for the first 8000 meters summit of the season in a few days #everest2023
Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 2
The Everest spring season is starting slowly, at least on the Nepal side of the Hill. The Tibet side remains closed to foreigners. Multiple teams are trekking to Everest Base Camp – Nepal, aka EBC. Each weekend during the season, I’ll post a “Weekend Update” summarizing the main stories for the past week. #everest2023
I’ve always felt that if you are qualified and have earned the right to be on Everest, you should be applauded, regardless of your result. No matter what you read, Everest is not a walk-up; it hard, and people die. With that, let’s look at a few climbers with unique stories. #everest2022
Everest 2023: First Steps in the Khumbu
As we approach April, activity is picking up in Nepal. Team after team has left Kathmandu, taking helicopters or fixed-wing aircraft to Namche or Lukla. There they will begin the trek to Everest Base Camp, Island Peak, or just in the Khumbu. It’s a special time. As I’ve said since 1997, if you ever get a chance to trek in Nepal, jump on it. It will change your life for the better. Let’s take a look at the first steps in the Khumbu.
#everest2023
Everest 2022 Season Summary: The Year of the Missing Jetstream
2022 brought even more stable weather windows than during the great Everest 2018. This May, a stalled high-pressure system made for horrendous temperatures in Northern India while paradoxically creating nearly ideal climbing conditions across much, but not all, of the Himalayas. The net result was nearly 650 people summiting from Everest’s Nepal side and another 50 on the Tibet side.
Unlike previous seasons, this spring saw more experienced climbers resulting in fewer deaths, rescues, and an overall low drama environment. Despite this good news, there were periods of brutal weather and climbing conditions, and yes, there were rescues, close-calls, and, sadly, deaths.
This season, we saw the continued trend of a very high member to support ratio. A milestone reached with more Sherpas summiting than foreigners in total since Everest climbing began in the 1920s. We’ll dig into this later. All in all, it was a year like we saw a decade ago. But, unfortunately, it was not without deaths, three deaths on Everest and three more on the other 8000ers.
In the good news department, for the first time in many years, the Nepal Ministry of Tourism seemed content to stay out of the way and the headlines. But, this spring, significant changes appeared in the world of mountaineering. These changes will disrupt decades of climbing norms on the 8000-meter peaks.
Everest 2022: Summit Wave 12 – Recap
The big news is not from Everest but on Makalu where Norweigan Kristin Harila along with her Sherpa support got her sixth 8000er in just 29-days, setting a new record. There were 20 summits on Everest, perhaps the last of this season as the Icefall Doctors will begin removing the ladders on Sunday, May 29, 2022. EverestER has already left base camp.