2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Progress, No Manaslu, Nanga Fragments
There is progress on K2 but clarification that the two teams are working independently. Locals quit on Nanga and avalanches end Manaslu effort. The winter clock continues to advance. K2: Climbers Injured, Weather Delays K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Sleep at C2/6800m The Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan team is back at K2 Base Camp after a few rotations up the mountain and after almost 7 days of weather delays. They have slept at 6800-meters/22,310-feet the location of traditional Camp 2 on the Abruzzi. In an interview with Michael Danichkina on the Polish site Wspinanie.pl we learn that all is about the same as a summer climb: We locate all camps in usual places. Except some intermediate camps, while fixing up ropes. C1 and C2 are set well already. We have 5 tents redfox cave, on the route. Ropes enough for the whole route, snow anchors, ice screws, pitons. Food and gas we bring just enough amount for every trip plus little deposit for emergency cases. All garbage is brought down to BC. Contrary to what has been reported on other sites, Danichkina says there are no plans to work with Txikon and in fact he is putting in parallel ropes to his: We have neutral relationship with Alex team. We do our tasks and they do their task. Mutual plans have not been discussed. You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb and their site are the best sources. K2: Spanish/Galician Team – Injuries The other K2 team, lead by Alex Txikon, continue to make plans and build igloos but there are some issues with ice and rock fall taking two members off the mountain by helicopter: Waldemar Kowalewski and Marek Klonowsk. Two people from the Base Camp’s support team (NO mountaineers) have descended from the Base Camp; one of them, for an injury he has had for several days and the other one just to help him. There was no urgency but we decided it just to avoid unnecessary risks. On the other hand, as I said yesterday, the Polish Waldelmar has also descended after being hit by an ice block. Marek who has been with antibiotics, has also gone down to recover and climb up again with our doctor Josep Sanchis !! ;);) They are making progress now that Txikon finally made a route decision after being on K2 for a couple of weeks – they will take the Abruzzi – same as the other team. He considered the extremely dangerous and once climbed East face. We have equipped up to Camp 2 at 6700 meters in just 2 days. It is a real success and we are very happy. I am very proud of the whole team, we have equipped a new route line. After equipping with 1,100 meters of rope until Camp 1, we have taken another 1,200 meters of rope with us. The weather has been quite good although the strong wind has not helped much. However, we have worked well and we still don’t believe what we have achieved. Txikon and crew spent a lot of time thinking a lot about other routes, especially the unclimbed East Face which was well known for serious objective dangers not only in the summer, much less in the winter. He made this post as to their decision on the Abruzzi: After exploring the east side of K2 we have made a decision. It is very dangerous and risky, because between 6800 and 7000 meters is very exposed, and then you have to cross the glacier to Bottleneck. In addition, everything from the mountain falls towards that side. Therefore, we will ascend through the Abruzzos route. We have also equipped more than 5800 meters, almost until Camp 1. You can follow their movements on Alex’s GPS tracker, Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook. Winter Nanga Parbat – Tents Disappear The team of Daniele Nardi, British Thomas Ballard continue to climb on NB but the two local climbers, Pakistanis Rehmatullah Baig and Karim have left, giving up after too much snow and winds up high. They had established Camp 3 at 5,714m with a cache of gear but upon their return found their tents blown away with no trace. They are attempting the Mummery’s Spur. You can follow them on their sponsors site, Montane. Winter Manaslu – Over Simone Moro and Pemba Gyalje Sherpa have given up. The “winter maestro” made this announcement” Finally a good weather window has opened today, and again Karl Gabl was right. Obviously with the sun, the avalanches have increased, they also approached and reached our base camp. Fortunately shortly after this photo a helicopter came to rescue us. Over the last few days the aim of reaching my fifth summit in winter was transformed into surving in this situation! It would take at least 2 to 3 weeks of sunshine to settle 6 meters of powder snow, but the forecast is far from good. Sometimes giving up is an essential ingredient for future success and with this decision I want to honor the nickname “winter maestro” I have been given. Again, When does Winter End? If you remember the K2 attempt last winter, there was a lot of controversy over when winter ends, mostly by Denis Urubko. He feels it ends on February 28, not the Spring equinox on March 20, 2018 at 12:15 pm EDT. It appears this year, teams are taking the long view. The K2 teams are making good progress at the moment but more bad weather is in the forecast – winter after all. NB is not looking promising at the moment. So we will see but the next week or so will be pivotal to see if the climbers can touch 8,000-meters and establish sustainable high camps for a summit push. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
2018/19 Winter Climbs: At K2 Base Camp, Climbing Nanga
One of the K2 teams arrived at base camp but poor weather is already hindering progress. Climbing is going well on Nanga Parbat, but also some weather concerns. K2: At Base Camp K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – at BC The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan arrived at K2 Base Camp in good condition. They tried to do a recon to Advanced Base Camp, a short walk from BC, but turned back when they hit poor weather. You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb is the best source. K2: Spanish/Galician Team – At Concordia The other K2 team, lead by Alex Txikon, are at Concordia enjoying great views of K2. They should arrive tomorrow, January 16. A third Polish climber, Waldemar Kowalewski, is joining their team and is on the trek in. You can follow their movements on Alex’s GPS tracker, Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook. Winter Nanga Parbat – Poor Weather This team of Daniele Nardi, British Thomas Ballard and two Pakistani teammates Rehmatullah Baig and Karim are back at Camp 3 at 5,714m with a cache of gear. They found their tents buried in deep snow and had to dig them out – hard work at that altitude. They are attempting the Mummery’s Spur. Winter Manaslu – At Manaslu BC Simone Moro and Pemba Gyalje Sherpa are now at Manaslu base camp after summiting Mera Peak for acclimatization. Winter Alaska – Over American climber Lonnie Dupre is back in Talkeetna, Alaska after giving up on his MT. Hunter attempt: With the ice fall leading to the Ramen route on Mount Hunter completely impassable this year, I explored an alternate route which proved to have a high risk of serac falls and avalanches. I called for a pickup at basecamp and am now in Talkeetna. More to follow…pictures, video, and future ice climbing. Best of luck to all this winter. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
2018/19 Winter Climbs: Trekking
Not a lot of new information from any of the teams. The K2 teams are still on the trek and others are still early in their climbs. K2: Trekking to Base Camp K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Trekking the Baltoro The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan are trekking towards K2 Base Camp. They are currently at the Urdukas Camp. You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb is the best source. K2: Spanish/Galician Team – Trekking the Baltoro The other K2 team, lead by Alex Txikon, are also trekking the Baltoro Glacier towards K2 Base Camp and at Paiyu. You can follow their movements on Alex’s GPS tracker, Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook. Winter Nanga Parbat – Poor Weather This team is attempting a new route on Mummery’s Spur. Daniele Nardi, British Thomas Ballard and two Pakistani teammates Rehmatullah Baig and Karim have established Camp 3 at 5,714m. Winter Manaslu – Cold and Windy Mera Simone Moro and Pemba Gyalje Sherpa summited Mera Peak and now are at Khare. They posted a video talking about how cold it was. “Back to CB after a night spent at 5800 m. Here in the video we’re descending in complete whiteout. The weather forecast for the next days is strong wind at 130 kph. ” Winter Alaska – Flying American climber Lonnie Dupre is in Talkeetna, Alaska is on MT. Hunter now but had to change route due to the Icefall being “completely impassable” with all the crevasses. Best of luck to all this winter. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Climbers en route, Nanga Climbers Climbing, New Everest Route?
The winter 8000-meter teams are well on their way to their respective peaks. On Nanga Parbat, the climbing has begun. K2: In Skardu K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Arrival Pakistan The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan are in Skardu after taking a bus on Karakoram Highway for 30 hours. It seems there was some construction and repairs along the way that delayed their progress but all is well now. Next up is the 8 to 10 hour drive in Toyota 4Runners to the end of the road in Askole where they will being the trek to K2 Base Camp. You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb is the best source. K2: Spanish/Galician Team – On the road The other K2 team, lead by Alex Txikon, are also in Skardu. While no final decision has been made on which route they will take, it appears they are open the 1978 American Route. Also, Txikon told the Spanish media, Marca in December that if they end up on the same route as the Russian International team, most likely the Abruzzi, that they will work together. He said they will share kitchen facilities at base camp. He also said “K2, there is less chance than on Everest” for a winter summit and suggested he will return in the summer of 2019 to do a traverse of K2 combing the Pakistani and Chinese sides. You can follow their movements on Alex’s GPS tracker, Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook. Winter Nanga Parbat – Poor Weather This team is attempting a new route on Mummery’s Spur. After a short period of heavy snow, Daniele Nardi, British Thomas Ballard and two Pakistani teammates Rehmatullah Baig and Karim have established their Camp 1 at 15,49-feet/4,700-meters , and touched Camp 2 at 16,730-feet/5,100-meters They posted this video on YouTube Winter Manaslu – Summited Mera Simone Moro and Pemba Gyalje Sherpa summited Mera Peak for acclimatization and posted this update on Instagram: “Today we reached the Mera Peak summit at 15:30 after five hours of ascent. Cold and heavy gusts of wind on top, but it took us only eight hours to climb up and down.” Winter Alaska – Flying American climber Lonnie Dupre is in Talkeetna, Alaska hoping to fly to the glacier tomorrow for his winter attempt on Mt. Hunter. Everest: New Route Attempt Spring 2019 Cory Richards posted on Instagram “2019. The biggest and most immediate goal is our attempt to establish a previously unclimbed route on Everest come May. We have 14 weeks until we leave…” He is said to be climbing with Adrain Ballinger. Best of luck to all this winter. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Climbers Enroute, Antarctic Update, 28 Everest Summits?
The winter 8000-meter teams are all arriving or are already acclimating towards their objectives. Remember this will be a long effort, especially on K2, with summits near the end of January at the earliest. K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team – Arrival Pakistan The seven member team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan are in Islamabad and are preparing to fly to Skardu for the 4Runner drive to the end of the road in Askole where they will being the trek to K2 Base Camp Vassiliy Pivtsov is the expedition leader and Basil Pivtsov (Kazakhstan) is the head of the expedition and the team captain. Artem Brown (Russia) is listed as the project organizer. The rest of the team now includes: Abildayev Novel (Russia), Roman Abildaev (Russia), Michael Danichkin (Kyrgyzstan), Mikhail Danichkin (Kyrgyzstan), Tursunali Aubakirov (Kazakhstan), Tursunov Aubakirov (Kazakhstan), Dmitry Ants (Kazakhstan), Dmitry Muraviov (Kazakhstan), Konstantin Shepelin (Russia), Konstantin Shepelin (Russia) You can follow them on Instagram but Russian Climb is the best source. K2: Spanish/Galician Team – On the road The other K2 team is lead by Alex Txikon is now traveling by bus from Kathmandu to Islamabad while his Spanish teammates will fly from Madrid. He will be climbing with his long time friend and partner Felix Criado from Galicia, Spain and two additional teammates: Polish climbers Marek Klonowski and Paweł Dunaj. They will have a strong team of eight Sherpas with them in support including Nuri Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Hallung Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa. He has not announced what route they will use, Abruzzi or Česen or even the East Face. The pair attempted K2 in 2013 but stopped just above Camp 2 at 6,900-meters. You can follow their movements on Alex’s GPS tracker, Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook. Winter Nanga Parbat – Poor Weather Daniele Nardi with British Thomas Ballard and two Pakistani team members Rehmatullah Baig and Karim Hayat are attempting a new route on Nanga Parbat. They reached Camp 1 on the mountain while the two Pakistani mountaineers had hoped to move up to Camp 2 but heavy snow has forced everyone back down to base camp. Winter Manaslu – On Trek Simone Moro and Pemba Gyalje Sherpa are on the trek to acclimatize on Mera Peak before attempting Manaslu via the normal route in alpine style. In more noise around when winter begins and when an expedition starts, Moro has said “the only ascent to the Manaslu during an astronomical winter , that of the Poles of 1984, could not be considered a totally winter expedition , since it began before December 21 and was already above 7,000 meters when it began the station.” source Winter Alaska – Arriving Alaska American climber Lonnie Dupre, well known for his amazing attempts to summit Denali in true winter, left for Alaska yesterday for his winter attempt on nearby Mt. Hunter. An Antartica “Unassisted” Record? Antartica expert and veteran polar guide Eric Philips added a bit more on American Colin O’Brady’s claim of a solo, unassisted, and unsupported 54-day Antarctic traverse. O’Brady pulled a 136Kg/300lb sledge from one coast to Antartica to the South Pole then to another costal point. The total journey was 1,487km/923 miles. He beat fellow racer, British Army Captain Lou Rudd by 2 days. Both extremely impressive. However, the record part of his journey has come under scrutiny given he traveled on the McMurdo-South Pole Highway, or the South Pole Overland Traverse Road (SPOT), a flattened trail groomed by tractors towing heavy sledges carrying personnel and supplies from McMurdo Station to the South Pole making travel on groomed ice vs the uneven and often impossible sastrugi (wind built ice formations) easier, and faster. Philips posted on Facebook: To add further clarity to the discussion about Colin O’Brady’s claim on the first solo, unsupported and unassisted crossing of Antarctica, I have made up this map of solo crossings to date with some supporting narrative. Other factors also have a bearing on modern polar expeditioning such as the psychological benefit of satellite phones, accessible weather forecasting and sponsor obligations, and economic and logistic pressures that encourage people to choose routes that start and/or finish closer to logistics hubs. The terms unsupported and unassisted are no longer adequate in themselves so I have refrained from using them as labels. Other News Kami Rita Sherpa at age 48 holds the record for most Everest summits at 22. He says he wants to continue climbing for the next 6 years. If he summits each year, that would put him at 28 Everest summits. source He used to work for foreign guide services but landed a lucrative contract with Seven Summits Treks to climb with them. And finally the young Sherpa who lost both set of fingers to frostbite while guiding a Pakistani client, Col Abdul Jabbar Bhatti , on Everest in spring 2017 has returned to Nepal. In an ironic move, he has agreed to take a job with the very company, Seven Summits Treks, that sent him in harms ways, very unprepared according to Sange Sherpa himself. Sange spent most of the last year undergoing reconstructive surgery by world-class doctors in Vail, Colorado due to the generosity of mostly US donors to cover his living and medical expenses and reportedly none from SST or Col Abdul Jabbar Bhatti. Best wishes in his new career. Best of luck to all this winter. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summits, Missing Climber, Skiing Lhotse
This last week has been the pinnacle for the 2018 autumn climbing season across the Himalayas in Tibet and Nepal. Sadly a Czech climber is missing after summiting Manaslu and the long-coveted ski descent of the Lhotse Couloir is apparently completed but not confirmed. Big Picture – Weekend Update This week will wrap up the volume teams leaving a few small, mostly independent climbers still attempting their peak. One point about this season I’ve noticed is that there are many, many, many small teams lead by Sherpas out of Nepal. The old-guard of western guides are here and there but most of the volume include Chinese and Indian climbers supported by Nepali companies. All of this is a continuation of a trend that stared over five years ago of local climbers – throughout the world – establishing credible guide services to cater to the growing demand. Often they compete on price but that is also changing with many local guides charging the same as long-time western outfits. In any event, it has become more and more difficult to track 30 teams with 5 people each than 10 teams with 15 people each. I do the best I can but will certainly miss mentioning some climbers and guide services. As a follow-up to the regulator issues experienced by several teams on Everest this past spring, Summit Oxygen tells me that there have been no failures since that event in May on other 8000-meter peaks. Garett Madison told me his SO kit performed fine on K2 in July. Shishapangma- Summits and a New Record for 8000ers 7 Summits Club‘s Sergey Larin, guide and head of their expedition on Shishapangma from Tibet noted their summits “Today at 8:30, Sergei Larin, Zygmunt Berdychowski and Igor Smirnov, that is, all members, as well as all the Sherpas climbed to the top of Shisha Pangma” It’s unclear if they made the true summit as that is rare to cross the extremely dangerous and heavily corniced summit ridge. Seven Summits Treks claimed more summits on 29 September 29 with 1 Spanish climber, 2 from Chile and 3 Sherpas. Luo Jing Cheng who became first Chinese to summit all 14 8000-meter peaks in a record time of 6 years, 11 months and 25 days breaking South Korean Kim Chang Ho time of 7 years, 10 months and 6 days. She summited Shish with Norbu Sherpa” She comes the 41st person to compete the 8000ers according to Wikipedia. This is a nice interview with her in China Daily. Congratulations to her! UPDATE: According to this report no one reached the true summit of Shish so they cannot claim to have summited all 14 of the 8000ers. Its a shame they felt they needed to name such a false claim when there were other climbers who video them turning back. It brings into question many of this tam others summit claims. Cho Oyu – Summits 7 Summits Club‘s Lyudmila Korobeshko noted summits on Cho-Oyu on September 28. Their team included: Dmitry Ghinkulov, Irina Zisman, Lyudmila Korobeshko and three Sherpas. They noted about the Sherpas and weather “without whom the expedition would have been much more difficult. In principle, we were lucky with the weather. Although not everything was so simple. The wind was strong, it was cold. And also we got a night in a traffic jam due to the large Chinese team. ” Tracee Metcalfe summited Cho Oyu along with Namgyal Sherpa and Phurba Tashi. You may recognize Phurba as being the long time Sidar for Russell Brice, who didn’t run a trip this autumn under his Himalayan Experience company. Rene Bergsma and Hirohisa Suzuki also summited. Their trip was run by Active Mountain‘s Shinji Tamura As I reported last week, many other teams summited Cho including Climbing the Seven Summits lead by Tendi Sherpa. Mountain Madness had summits, apparently scoring a rare summit all to themselves. Also, on 25 September Adventure Consultants summited. IMG said they had 12 people on the summit on September 29 saying “it was a perfect day with clear skies and very little wind.” Alpenglow made the summit with a small team and posted “Cant express how much I love what these guys are feeling right now! alpenglowexpeditions first team of the season just summited Cho Oyu, the 6th tallest mountain in the world! It was a perfect day with no wind and huge views of #everest from the summit. Now comes team 2, trying for the summit (and maybe a little ski) today! Stay tuned and congrats to all.@estebantopomena” It also looked like Caroline Gleich who climbed with Alpenglow, got a Two-fer with a summit and a husband! She posted “ “He said yes at 26,906 ft./ 8201m on the summit of Cho Oyu, with Everest and Lhotse in the background! It takes a strong man to support a woman like me. I knew you were husband material before this trip, but sharing this expedition sealed the deal. Rob Lea, you are so patient and kind, especially when you took care of me when I got sick, never complaining about the possibility of abandoning your summit attempt to make sure I was ok. I knew you were a keeper when you emptied my pee bottle and carried down the wag bag we shared. Sharing a month long expedition with your significant other is one of the most intimate experiences. There are highs and lows, and you get to see a person’s true colors. Rob, I’m so happy for our journey ahead!” Kobler reports they had summits on September 29 “the night was clear and not very cold, which suited us very accommodating. Only shortly before the summit got us a wind showed us how cold it could be at this level. About nine o’clock in the morning, seven of the nine participants were standing on the summit of the 8201 meter high Cho Oyu. Six participants conquered the summit with oxygen and defeated the summit without oxygen. Unfortunately two participants had to turn at an altitude of 7800 m. The performance of these two participants must be respected but in spite of everything, because they were
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summits All Over
One of the best moments in climbing on the Himalayan is when you reach the summit of an 8000-meter, or lesser peak only hear a Sherpa screaming into his radio “Summmmmiiiitttt” with the energy of a World Cup Football announcer. You almost can’t help but smile. This scene is being repeated on Manaslu and Cho Oyu this week with summits being reported on both 8000ers. Cho Oyu – Summits Climbing the Seven Summits team reported they summited: “We are thrilled to announce the entire CTSS team is currently standing on the summit of Cho Oyu in perfect weather.” Tendi Sherpa lead the trip. As did Mountain Madness with a Tweet “Cho Oyu Team just checked in from the top of the sixth highest peak in the world” Kobler reports they are also leaving for the summit on 25 Sept as was Adventure Consultants who posted “We have just received a satellite phone call from Expedition Leader Dean Staples sounding remarkably fresh after a successful summit of Cho Oyu!” Alpenglow made the summit with a small team. No update from Kobler yet Manaslu – Summits The rope team from Seven Summits Treks made the summit on September 25, 2018. They were Gyaljen Sherpa of Solukhumbu, Mingma Tenjing Sherpa, Tenjing Chhimbi Sherpa and Temba Bhote of Sankhuwasabha. Tagging behind them were Brazilian Moeses Fiamoncini and Spainish Sergi Mingote who said he was climbing with no Os, alpine style. He summited Broad Peak and K2 a few months ago and is off to Dhaulagiri now. On September 216, Arnold Coster, part of the 7ST gang posted “Good News! All Arnold Coster Manaslu team members and Sherpas summited Manaslu today around 6:15 am.” Its reported that 12 people summited – 6 Sherpas and 6 members. 7ST posted today, 27 September that their “international” team summited – no word on how many that was but they regularly have 20,30,40 or even 50 climbers plus the same number of support Sherpas. Mingma Sherpa running one of the many, many Sherpa lead large teams reports in: Manaslu update:Benjamin from usa, simond from uk with suman, anup and prakash made summit at 12:30pm. Benjamin also skied from below the summit. Remaining team member will depart tonight for final summit push. Dhaulagiri – Progress with Snow 79-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan reported that they are at C1 hoping to spend a few nights at C2. He seems hopeful he will make the summit, now that this is his 10th and last effort. Billi Bierling has a very nice write up posted a few days ago on her Dhaulagiri experience and the tragic death of a Sherpa fixing rope. She is with Kobler. Polski Himalaizm Zimowy 2016-2020 im. Artura Hajzera reported a small earthquake but no damage. Lhotse Ski Descent Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison, climbing with a team of Sherpas, are fighting to get the route in but are reporting all is well. Annapurna Ski Descent Two Russian climbers/skiers, Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin, are hoping to ski down Annapurna I at 8,091-meter/26,545-feet. The have reached C2 at 5,600-meters/18,372-feet. They report a lot of fresh snow requiring time to settle, Shishapangma- Arrival at BC 7 Summits Club out of Russia has just arrived at their base camp for this great peak. The noted “We are preparing to make the second acclimatization rotation with overnight at Camp II at the height of 7100, we expect that ropes to be fixed.” Congratulation to all and best of luck for the rest Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Summit Pushes Begin
Pretty much on schedule, multiple teams will be starting their summit push this week, if they haven’t already. The weather continues to be decent but fresh snow on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna will require a couple days to settle. Cho Oyu Climbing the Seven Summits team reported they left for the summit today, Monday Sept 24 2018: “Their plan is to head up to Camp 1 today and on to Camp 2 tomorrow. We are looking at an excellent weather window coming our way with low winds and dry conditions. We will keep watching the forecast like hawks as they make their way up the mountain but so far, so good.” Kobler reports they are also leaving for the summit as is Adventure Consultants who posted “The time has come ! All the preparation, training, acclimatisation is done and tomorrow we begin our accent of Cho Oyu.” Alpenglow will leave BC on the 26th. Could be a bit crowded on the route. Manaslu – Rain and Snow Apparently there has been wifi problems out of Sama Goan – a 1st world problem – that has hampered comms from Manaslu but we do know that there has been rain at Base Camp, and snow up high. I’ve seen reports of 1.5 meters or 5-feet of new snow above C2. In other words, a normal season on Manaslu. A summit window around September 26-29 is emerging that will attract most all of the teams. On Manaslu, you climb when the weather allows, waiting is a poor option. The vast majority of the estimated 200 climbers will take the standard route but a couple of teams will attempt to climb alpine style via the pinnacle and several will ski from the summit – a popular option in recent years. According to my friend Hugues Duplantier, who is climbing Manaslu, there is a Nepal climber who plans to paraglide from the summit. Mingma Sherpa running one of the many, many Sherpa lead large teams reports in: Imagine Nepal Manaslu Expedition consists of 10 foreign members, 4 cooking staffs and 10sherpa. All members and Sherpa slept at camp1, camp2, camp3 and returned back to base camp. Now the team will take few days rest in base camp and will make final summit push by end of September. Sergi Mingote is reported to have left C3 with no Os for an alpine climb of Manaslu. He summited Broad Peak and K2 a few months ago. Polski Himalaizm Zimowy 2016-2020 im. Artura Hajzera reported a small earthquake but no damage. Dhaulagiri – Slow Progress with Snow 79-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan has done one rotation and is back in Base Camp. They conducted their puja today. Weather has stalled a lot of progress on this peak this season similar to this past spring. Recent fresh snow has required teams to pause for a couple of days to let it all settle but the sun is now out. Billi Bierling has a very nice write up posted a few days ago on her Dhaulagiri experience and the tragic death of a Sherpa fixing rope. She is with Kobler. This is a brief excerpt but I encourage you to read the entire post: Third rotation: After two more days, we were once again on the long path to camp 1. of entry into the route requires extreme concentration, because this leads in the middle of the so-called “Eiger” – when you stand before it, you know immediately why this big boulder Wearing that name. It is true that there is a feeling of a smaller version of the famous eiger north face. This time we needed “only” 8 hours and 20 minutes for the rise, which was the record so far. ” I’m pulling the hat in front of my teammates and I have no idea how they found the way past the countless crevasses,” says billi. ” I am very grateful to you.” in nice weather we made it comfortable in the already established tents and waited for the opening of the next day, because then it should be in camp 2 to CA. 6.400 m. We broke comfortably at 8.30 and saw the sherpas of the other expedition that pinned the way to camp 3 When we reached our three sherpas at about 6.000 M, we learned about the misfortune. AN AVALANCHE WAS OVER CAMP 2 and tore three of the seven sherpas. Two were able to escape from the snow, but young dawa gyal Jen disappeared into the snow and could no longer be found. The team went off. We did it and returned to camp 1 ” I think we should not continue to rise out of respect and the suboptimal conditions on the mountain,” informed us Andreas – a decision we all agreed with. In the afternoon we heard the helicopter that was looking for the young sherpa, but unfortunately only a backpack could be found – he himself will remain in eternal ice. After another night at camp 1, we were on the next day at 5.30 out of the bags and again rose in the sunshine direction 2 where our three sherpas had already set up a tent. However, since the weather forecast is unfavourable for the next two days, we decided on the same day. Lhotse Ski Descent Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison, climbing with a team of Sherpas, are fighting to get the route in but are reporting all is well. Annapurna Ski Descent Two Russian climbers/skiers, Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin, are hoping to ski down Annapurna I at 8,091-meter/26,545-feet. The have reached C2 at 5,600-meters/18,372-feet. They report a lot of fresh snow requiring time to settle, Chinese Fight on Manaslu Sadly, this headline made the rounds last week. I choose to bury it as it is a shame to see such behavior on the mountains. Anyway, it appears two Chinese climbers with different teams got into a verbal dispute about a business dealing back home. The argument escalated when one of the protagonists kicked the other in his chest
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing: Sherpas Dies on Dhaulagiri
Team after team are wrapping up their acclimatization rotations so look for summit pushed to begin as early as this weekend or early next week. The weather is looking poor for next couple of days but then returning to nice autumn conditions, albeit with rain around Manaslu and snow on Dhaulagiri – which seems to be the norm for those peaks. Sherpa Death on Dhaulagiri As happens regularly when climbing the world’s largest peaks, a death has occurred. This time he was Dawa Geljen Sherpa of Makalu rural municipality – 2, Sankhuwasabha on Dhaulagiri. Apparently he was part of a seven-person rope fixing team when an avalanche slab below them released carrying the Sherpas downslope. Dawa Geljen didn’t survive. He was employed by Seven Summits Treks and supporting a team that included 79-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan. There were between Camp 2 at 6,400-meters/20,997-feet and Camp 3 at 7,400-meters/24,278-feet. Cho Oyu The world’s sixth highest peak at 26,907’/8201m is the second most popular 8000er after Everest with over 3,500 summits. Everest now has over 8,000 summits. Most teams have spent nights as high as Camp 2 at 7,100-meters/23,293-feet – a bit higher than Aconcagua. This year the commercial teams include. Adventure Consultants IMG 7 Summits Alpenglow Kobler reports they are at “6500 M, have built a depot with tents, ropes, cooker and gas, and slept two nights at camp 1 in 5.800 m. The Acclimation is progressing.” Caroline Gleich climbing with Alpenglow has been posting about her difficulties adjusting the altitude, but now she seems fine. Manaslu – 250++ climbers Similar to Cho Oyu, Manaslu is regarded as attainable and in recent years has seen a dramatic increase in traffic with the closures and avalanches on Cho Oyu. However, some foreign guide companies refuse to guide on Manaslu feeling the avalanche risk is too great so they focus on Cho Oyu. Most of the communication coming from Manaslu says that their rotations are on schedule and they are optimistic about summiting soon. Dhaulagiri – Carlos’ last Time 79-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan has done one rotation and is back in Base Camp. Also Kobler is running a trip on Dhaulagiri this year and they report in all is well expect for the Sherpa’s death which has hit the entire camp hard. Lhotse Ski Descent Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison, partially sponsored by The North Face will attempt a ski descent from the summit of Lhotse this autumn. They have established the route to Camp 2 on the Western Cwm Annapurna Ski Descent Two Russian climbers/skiers, Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin, will attempt ski down Annapurna I at 8,091-meter/26,545-feet. Movie: Dawn Wall Lastly, I saw the movie The Dawn Wall last night and thoroughly enjoyed it. It is showing in limited release but if you a chance, take it. In January, 2015, American rock climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson sent a route on Yosemite’s El Capitan almost everyone said simply couldn’t be done. The movie takes us through their lives, their friendship and struggles on the Wall. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Autumn 2018 Himalayan Climbing Begins
If it is early September, it must mean a migration to the big mountains of Tibet and Nepal. After being closed to climbing last year, Tibet is open and the usual suspects will be busy. Reports have it that more than 350 foreign climbers supported by over 300 Sherpas will be on the five Nepal and Tibet 8000-meter peaks commonly climbed in Autumn: Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse, Shishapangma and Cho Oyu. Also look for teams on Ama Dablam and Cholastse. Usually the autumn climbing season is quiet compared to Everest or K2. The climbs are never “easy” as advertised by many company’s but they are “achievable.” People die every year on these peaks. Cause range from latent health issues brought out by altitude to avalanches to falls in crevasses, so like any climb, take nothing for granted. Cho Oyu The world’s sixth highest peak at 26,907’/8201m is the second most popular 8000er after Everest with over 3,500 summits. Everest now has over 8,000 summits. For many years, the Chinese government has made getting to Cho Oyu a gamble with random border closures and unannounced bans on climbing due to fears of protests involving Tibet. Cho Oyu is generally regarded as one of the most “attainable” 8000 meter peaks with a straightforward climb to a huge flat summit and a dramatic view of Everest. It is often used as a climber’s first 8000 meter climb or as prep for Everest the next year. For 2018, many commercial teams will be there as it is a regular offering when the Chinese cooperate. This year the commercial teams include. Adventure Consultants IMG 7 Summits Alpenglow Kobler There are many Nepali guide companies as well but it is difficult to track them. I will report on them as I can find credible information. Manaslu – 250++ climbers Similar to Cho Oyu, Manaslu is regarded as attainable and in recent years has seen a dramatic increase in traffic with the closures and avalanches on Cho Oyu. However, some foreign guide companies refuse to guide on Manaslu feeling the avalanche risk is too great so they focus on Cho Oyu. According to the Himalayan Times, 250 foreigners are expected this year from 18 teams including Adventure Peaks, Adventure Consultants, 7 Summits Club, Seven Summit Treks, Summit Climb, Satori Adventures, Mountain Experience, Climbalaya Treks, Ascent Himalaya, Himalayan Guides and Snowy Horizon Treks. With almost the same number of Sherpas and support staff as foreigners, it will be quite crowded once again in 2018. In 2017 Seven Summits Treks, the dominant Nepali owned and based guide service, posted they had 50 members and 50 Sherpas for the 2018 season including a large Chinese team. Himalayan Experience is scheduled to run a trip in 2018 along with several other western companies. Himex has been guiding Manaslu since 2008. Dhaulagiri – Carlos’ last Time 79-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan will be on Dhaulagiri trying to complete his quest to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. He has been stopped nine previous times, mostly by weather or avalanche conditions . He says this is his last attempt, #10. He is self funding this tine as all his sponsors pulled out. He is supported by Seven Summits Trek’s sub company 14 Peak and is climbing with Luis M L Soriano. He attempted Dhaulagiri in the spring of this year but was turned back by weather. If he summits Dhaulagiri, he will only have Shishapangma, the only 8000er fully located in Tibet, to summit. Also Kobler is running a trip on Dhaulagiri this year. Lhotse Ski Descent – updated Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison, partially sponsored by The North Face will attempt a ski descent from the summit of Lhotse this autumn. I had reported the team was from Aplenglow and included Adrian Ballinger and Emily Harrington, as originally planned and promoted but AB contacted me to say they had to pull out. Best of luck to all this autumn season. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything