autumn Himalayan Climbing Update 4 – Bad Weather, Summits Soon

My last update spoke of the legendary excellent autumn weather but predictably, teams are now experiencing heavy snow that has any thoughts of summit pushes on hold … for a few days. Most teams have spent multiple nights high above their base camps and feel ready to make their summit pushes when the conditions allow. Also a new […]

autumn Himalayan Climbing Update 3 – Great Weather

Manaslu 2013 view

Finally the legendary excellent autumn weather has arrived on the world’s highest peaks. Team and climbers alike are reporting “bluebird” days with clear skies and no wind. This makes even the hardest acclimatization day a joy. Most commercial teams focus on Everest in the spring because it is usually a two month event and takes […]

autumn Himalayan Climbing Update 2 – Jornet Cancels Everest

Kilian Jornet has ended his speed attempt on Everest from Tibet citing “dangerous” conditions. Meanwhile the only other climber from that side, Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki, remains at base camp also noting that Everest is covered with deep snow this autumn. He remains optimistic that he can still make an attempt. The monsoon seems to be hanging […]

autumn Himalayan Climbing Update 1

Well, really not a lot to report – I know what you’re thinking – that I would never be a journalist for an outdoor magazine with this as my opening line. Maybe this headline should have read “Amazing News from Early Himalayan Climbs – No News!” lol 🙂 Actually there is some news plus two new […]

autumn Himalayan Climbing Begins

If it is early September, it must mean a migration to the big mountains of Tibet and Nepal. Today, multiple teams are reported en-route or arriving at their Base Camps of Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Ama Dablam and even Everest. Cho Oyu The world’s sixth highest peak at 26,907’/8201m is always popular attracting hundreds of climbers […]

The Back Story on Manaslu 2015 – Summits, Res, Death

In the autumn of 2015, some of the world’s 8000 meter guides stopped their Manaslu expeditions due to risks that crossed their comfort zone but others continued and summited. One person died and another had to be rescued. Why do some stop, others continue and why did one person die? Manaslu, the world’s 8th highest peak at 26,759’/8156m has […]

Avalanche Kills 11 on Nepal’s Manaslu – Update 5: Summary

A deadly avalanche occurred on Manaslu in Nepal at 4:30AM on Sunday, September 23 killing at least a reported 9 climbers with another 6 missing. Another 10 climbers were impacted but escaped. It occurred at the 7000 meter (22,960′) level with the slide hitting Camp 3. News reports say that most of the victims were […]

summer Climbing Plans

Durango & Silverton Train

It is spring time in Colorado as evidence by deep snowfall that melts away the next day. So it is time to finalize my plans for summer climbs. My priority is to compete the Colorado 14ers. But also, I want to grab a few California 14ers and perhaps something big in the Fall. I have climbed 48 of the 54 Colorado 14ers. But of course the list is actually 58 so I need to climb 58! Confused? Well here is the explanation from my 14ers page

Himalayan 2009 Fall Updates

The Fall 2009 Himalayan season continues with teams on Cho Oyu, ambulance Manaslu, capsule Shishapangma and Everest. It is still early in most team’s acclimatization schedules. For example, prescription IMG’s Cho Oyu team has spent only one night at Camp 1 and Altitude Junkies have just reached base camp on Manaslu. I believe there are […]