Rainier FAQ
About Mt. Rainier The National Park Service (NPS) has stopped publishing detailed statistics for Rainer, so this is the latest available. Q: Where is Mt. Rainier? A: Rainier National Park in Washington State, US. It is a popular North American climb, with 10,000 attempts each year. The nearest major city is Seattle, and the major airport is Seattle-Tacoma International. The closest town is Ashford, and the Park HQ is in Paradise, Washington. Q: When is Rainier usually climbed? A: The prime climbing time is from late May to mid-September. The most popular route, Disappointment Cleaver, maxes out around the end of July each year, with over 600 people on it. Some experts climb Rainier year round, but these climbers have tons of experience. Weather can always be an issue. Even in mid-summer, it can snow, rain or hail at any time. Q: How does Rainier compare with a Colorado/California 14er or Denali? A: Snow! Rainier is snow-covered year-round on the upper part of all routes. Also, it has significant and deadly glaciers. A good friend lost his climbing partner in one of these crevasse. There is a real threat of avalanches on all routes. While the altitude may be similar to other 14ers, the weather and terrain put Rainier in a different class. Denali’s standard route is 6,000′ longer than most 14ers due to starting around 5,000′ and has even more brutal weather. However, the long snow slopes of the West Buttress route are similar, so Rainier is a good training climb for Denali or the Himalayas. Q: How hard is Rainier? A: Depends on the route. There are over 60 named routes on Mt. Rainier. The Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons Glacier routes are the most popular and straightforward. Another standard route is the Gibraltar Ledges. You gain almost 9,000′ from the trailhead at Paradise inside the Park to the summit and cover 18 miles round-trip. Liberty Ridge is well-known for its challenging and rewarding route. Every route to the summit requires a helmet, crampons and an ice axe (the base definition of “technical”), plus traveling roped up due to crevasse danger—very few climb solo. You must be in top physical condition with an excellent attitude to stand on the top. Also, having some essential experience with lower mountains and snow climbs is suitable for making your experience more enjoyable. Q: Is climbing Rainier dangerous? A: Statistically, it is similar to many large and popular mountains, with 1 to 3 people dying each year. Most deaths are attributed to weather and might have been avoided by turning around earlier. Most routes have hidden crevasses, falling rock, steep slopes and extreme exposure. The Ingraham Glacier and Liberty Ridge routes have seen the most deaths. Q: How many people had summited, and how many people had died trying? A: It is estimated that over 500,000 people have attempted Mt. Rainier, with about 200,000 summiting, and around 110 have died since 1887, mostly from falls or avalanches. The National Park Service states that about 10,000 attempt the summit summit each year and 50% succeed. 2014 saw a tragic incident with 6 climbers killed by some type of avalanche related incident on the Liberty Ridge route. An ice avalanche on Ingraham Glacier killed 11 of a 29-member climbing party in 1981. This was deadliest U.S. climbing incident ever. Several people die each year on the various routes. Training, Gear & Communication: Q: How should I train for Rainier? A: Focus on aerobic capacity, muscular strength and attitude. Even though it is only 14,411′, the elevation will stress the lung capacity needed to provide oxygen to your muscles. Also, you will carry 15 to 40 pounds throughout the climb. Your legs will hurt on the climb and your knees on the way down. You may have some pains in your back, depending on your overall condition. So, get in shape before climbing this hill! I run, lift weights, stretch and use visualization techniques to address these areas. Q: Is altitude a problem on Rainier since it is only 14,411? A: Altitude can be a problem anytime above 8,000 feet. Expect problems if you live at low elevations and come to Washington and jump on a trail without spending a few days letting your body adjust. The trailhead is 5,000′, so you need some time to acclimate. The best you can do is drink as much water as you can on the climb, protect yourself from the sun and wind, and if you feel light-headed or nauseated, take a break and have some water and food. Use your best judgment if you should go on, and never climb alone. The only cure for altitude sickness is to go lower as fast as possible. You need to descend 1,000′ to start feeling better. Q: Some guides require a climbing school. Is it necessary? A: As always, it depends on your experience. Back in 2004, I found the RMI school fun and educational. You can never minimize the importance of good technique in the mountains. Also, by doing it with your team, you create bonds which are invaluable in the mountains Q: What kind of gear do I need? A: This is a technical climb with the risk of extreme weather, so you need layers: wicking, warmth and wind/snow protection. Then you need your personal technical gear: harness, rope, pickets, slings, carabineers, ice axe, crampons, helmet, and finally, food and water. Also, if you are not on an organized guided trip, you must have provisions for an emergency: stove, tent, sleeping bag, extra food and water, first aid, etc. Q: Anything special about gear for Rainier? A: Rainier is a cold and windy mountain year-round. Layer your clothing and be prepared for rain, sun and wind. Never wear blue jeans or cotton clothing since they will not dry quickly enough when wet, thus increasing your chances of hypothermia if you get wet. A hat and sunglasses with sunscreen are a must. You will need boots that