Everest 2013: The Secret to Climbing at 80
Some of the largest teams have now arrived in Kathmandu including Himalayan Experience, no aka Himex and Russell Brice. Himex has a smaller Everest team with 10 climbers but an additional 6 going for Lhotse and an all women effort on Nuptse of 4 climbers. Himex’s overall lead guide is Mark “Woody” Woodward from New Zealand who has eight Everest summits. In their first newsletter for the season, Russell addressed his large team with these thoughts: I am really happy to inform you that it has been snowing at base camp and it is a lot colder than last year. It looks as if the conditions were back to normal. This bodes very well for a better season and I am pleased that some of last year’s members have come back for another and hopefully safer chance to reach the summit. If you are following someone as they trek towards EBC and have become used to receiving emails, or blog posts with pictures, be aware that when they hit the village of Periche, the Internet service is notoriously intermittent. This is surprising since that is the home of the Himalayan Rescue Association. Oddly the highest village before EBC, Gorak Shep has better connectivity. Separately, those using smart phones with the NCELL service can also experience spotty data service; voice service is generally good. Unique Climbs As much as Everest is known for crowds, Sherpas, and standard routes, it still attracts veteran climbers wanting to test themselves. For 2013, we have multiple examples of this. As I reported in February, there are several new routes to be attempted this year. One effort has been postponed due to lack of funding, but the other two seem to be on track. As one might expect, details are scarce as the famous climbers reserve the right to change their plans based on the conditions. Ueli Steck and Simone Moro made a short tease video for Epic TV saying as much. But one climber who is open with his plans is 80 year-old Japanese, Yuichiro Miura. This will be his third climb of Everest. His first summit was in 1973. He returned in 1975 to attempt to ski down Everest. His spectacular crash on the Lhotse Face was captured in the legendary documentary “The Man Who Skied Down Everest” In 2008 he returned with his son to summit. He was then 75 years-old. I love to tell this story as I met Mr. Miura in the Icefall in 2008. He was taking a break looking strong and confident. I went over to him and politely introduced myself and said it was honor to meet the man who skied down Everest. He grinned and said “I am not the man who skied down Everest. I am the man who fell down Everest.” We both laughed. I asked him what was his secret to climbing so well at such an advanced age as he was peeling back the top to a thumb size container. He paused and continued his work but then, smiled once again, held up the container, smiled and said “honey”. He is a remarkable man with an amazing spirit. He has a history of heart issues and underwent surgery to correct recurring arrhythmia last November and again in January this year, as he did before his 2008 expedition. In 2009, he had a skiing accident that left him with a broken pelvis and fractured thigh. If he summits, he will set the record for the oldest man to summit Everest. The record is currently held by Nepalese Min Bahadur Sherchan, who summited at age 76 on May 26, 2008. There was a story he would make another attempt this year at age 81, but I cannot confirm it is true. He is quoted in this article “When I was 75, I did it again and realised nothing is impossible. Making another attempt at 80 will boost my courage, willpower and motivation, bringing the ultimate anti-ageing effect as a result.” The BBC has a brief interview with Mr. Miura. Another inspiring climb is by Indian climber Arunima Sinha, who lost her left leg in 2011 after being thrown off a moving train. She has consulted with Kiwi Mark Inglis who as a double amputee summited Everest in 2006. She is a national-level volleyball player and has been training extensively. She reached 21,110′ on Chamser Kangri in the Ladakh mountainous area in September of last year. She will be climbing with Asian Trekking from the south. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
Yuichiro Miura: Everest at Age 80!
One never to give up, the former record holder for the oldest Everest summit, Japanese Yuichiro Miura, is now targeting another summit at age 80 – in 2013. This according to a report today from AFP. He wants to climb the north this time after previously completing two successful south-side climbs. Late last week he lost his record to Nepalese Min Bahadur Sherchan who produced birth certificates to verify his claim that he was the oldest person to top out Everest with his summit last year. He was 76 at the time. Miura-san is most famous for being the man who skied down Everest. The 1970 documentary, “The Man Who Skied Down Everest” is well worth the time. It reveals what climbing Everest was like before the crowds and commercial expeditions. He did not ski Everest proper, he actually skied the Lhotse face. Using a parachute as drag, he skied 6,600 feet in 2 minutes and 20 seconds then falling another 1320 feet when he stopped just below the bergschrund at the base of the base of the face. You have to rent the film. Sadly, 8 Sherpas died during his expedition for which Miura-san was devastated. I met Miura-san in the Khumbu Icefall in 2003. He was coming down from his successful summit at age 70. He was resting along with several Sherpas eating something. I mustered the courage to speak to this living legend asking him what was his secret to climbing at such an admirable age. He looked down at his lap where he had several small containers. He picked one up, holding it in his gloved fingers and gently looked at me. With a wry smile, he revealed his secret: “Bee’s honey.” Then laughed with the strength of a 30 year-old! An amazing individual, Miura-san. He tells AFP that he will start training for Everest with successive climbs of 5000, 6000 and 7000 meter peaks. Gokouun o inorimasu. Miura-san, Gokouun o inorimasu