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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Jun 282019
 
The route up Broad Peak. Courtesy of polishwinterhimalaism.pl.

After the slow start for teams to even reach their base camps, the weather relented late this week and progress was made on K2, Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak

K2

Mike Horn made progress on K2:

Back in basecamp after a successful climb to camp 1. Could not go higher due to snow conditions. Today is the first clear day so we will wait for the snow to settle and head back up this evening. It takes about 2.5 hours to get from basecamp to advanced basecamp through the icefall. It is a short trip but dangerous due to the exposure to avalanches and crevasses.

Adrian Ballinger who is climbing K2 sans Os is having a bit of a stomach issue on the Blatoro:

If you’re gonna spend 36 hours in a tent puking and shitting and shivering your brains out, it may as well be beautiful. I can guarantee I’ll never forget the Goro II camp on the trek to #K2. Yesterday all I wanted was a 🚁 home…today all I want is K2…I guess that means I’m feeling better 😬. To my team that stayed up all night with me two days ago – filling hot water bottles to rewarm me, helping me back to the tent after each new gross attack, trying to get meds into me even though I kept them back up, and just reminding me that this too shall pass – thank you. I ❤️ you guys

Madison Mountaineering had to make fairly significant detour to even reach K2 Base Camp. They went to the trekker’s left of Concordia over very rough terrain as shown on their GPS map. They have arrived at K2 BC along with Seven Summits Treks and other teams.

GI &II

Matthew Randall & Matt Gorbett are attempting to climb and ski Gasherbrum I and II without oxygen. They intend to raise $20,000 for the Special Forces Foundation. They report good snow conditions as they reached Camp 1 yesterday:

“I found ~6″ Of new snow on top of a thick suncrust with old consolidated snow beneath. Was nice for setting bootpack today”

Broad Peak

Kobler and Parter are in BC as is the Furtenbach Adventures team.

Nanga Parbat

Many ambitious efforts on the “Killer Mountain” The ski team reported in :

Nanga-Parbat is one of the most dangerous peaks of the planet – showed its temper, and once again reminded that the mountains are impossible to conquer, you can only for a moment be at the same height with them. Vitaly got to the avalanche line yesterday…Антон Pugovkin are the climbers who are currently on the mountain, passing acclimatization at an altitude of 6600 meters (3 High Camp) before the final storm, and the descent on Mountain skiing, as part of the freeride project in the death zone. Nanga-parbat “.

Nanda Devi East Summits

After an avalanche on the 24,390-foot/7,434-meter Nanda Devi East in Northern India took the lives of eight climbers,  DreamWanderlust reports that Jarek Gawrysiak and  Wojtek Flaczynski from the 10 members Polish team reached the top of Nanda Devi East (7534 m) on 27th June at around 5pm.They started for the summit push from Camp-3, located at about 6800m at around 3am on the same day.

More Fake Everest Summits

The Himalayan Times reports that Nahida Manzoor from Jammu & Kashmir, India received her summit certificate on June 13 as she claimed to have climbed Mt Everest on May 22 but there is growing evidence that she “photoshopped” her summit picture and never actually summited. If true this would be the 4th Indian to fake their summit this spring. She was with the Nepali operator Snowy Horizon Treks & Expeditions who’s team leader and the government Liaison Officer both said she had summited.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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