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Approaching Camp 3 on K2 in 2014 by Alan Arnette

I’ll use this page to track the current 2019 summit push on K2.

Latest Headlines 05:30 July 24 K2 Time

Update 2

Dawa Sherpa posted that the SST rope fixer are 200 meter below K2’s summit meaning they are past the avalanche prone area/

Update 1

Dawa Sherpa told me that their Sherpa team reached C4 2:30pm on Tuesday, July 23, 2019.  They hope to reach to summit Wednesday morning safely and return base camp. This suggest the SST Sherpas are working with Nims as expected.

Update 0

Adrian Ballinger reports to me that it is only his team and Nirmal Purja‘s at camp 4. They intend to leave for the summit push at 10 pm local time and they should summit between 10 and noon on July 24th. It should take around 20 hours round trip.

Ballinger said:

Arrived at c4 in amazing wx. Just Nims team and our team here. Climbed in long sleeve t and liner gloves and no down suit to 7800 today, pretty special. Possible good news… big wind event yesterday looks Like it may have stripped dangerous slope. Let’s see tonight…but I now see a whole lot more ice and rock

The teams consist of;

No update from the large Seven Summits Treks aka SST team. They had said they had close to 30 people also aiming for the summit on the 24th per their posts but with them not at Camp 4 they may have slipped a day. Nims had asked for everyone to stay behind for safety reasons. UPDATE: Dawa Sherpa of SST now says their rope team is at C4.

Other climbers hoping to still summit include Spanish climber Lina Quesada of Spain and Hungarian climbers Szilárd Suhajda and Dávid Klein.

Big Picture

Last week the SST Sherpa tried to fix the rope but triggered avalanches. Another effort was made by Imagine Nepal’s Minga Sherpa’s team but also turned back. It was though that 2019 might end with no summits similar to two of the last four years but Super Gurkha/Sherpa Nirmal Purja was nabbing his 8th and 9th summits of his Project Possible on GI/II was not able to contribute to the initial effort. Now that he is on K2, he feels confident yet still apprehensive that the route can be opened. With Ballinger’s report of high winds clearing some snow, the odds are more in their favor. Ballinger and Perez will follow Nims as they are climbing without supplemental oxygen. Look for Nims and his team to summit early Wednesday July 24th. There are no GPS trackers available to the public that I know of that we could follow.

K2 2019 Avalanche problem. Courtesy of Seven Summits Treks

 

K2 Camps

K2 Camps


Background

K2 2019 has come down to risk management vs ambition. The commercial teams with paying clients felt the fragile snow conditions were just too unstable to risk sending their Sherpas, HAPs, guides and clients to the summit. After all, most long time (mostly western) guides feel their job is to get their clients back home safely and not put them under unnecessary risks. I say, “mostly western” based on the number of deaths we saw this spring, 21, on Everest and other 8000ers with the majority, 15, coming for Nepali based operators who as one prominent guide told me “It’s not our job to turn a client around.”

At the other end of this spectrum are the well qualified independents who answer only to themselves, teammates and families. They have a broader risk profile and will push the envelope when others turn back. We are seeing this play out in 2019. Ambition, and in some case ego, are driving decision making that some may feel is unwise. Time will tell if they push too hard and pay the ultimate price or show their metal and find a way to the summit and return home safely.

Of note, there were three climber triggered avalanches between July 16 and 17 with several injuries including a Sherpa with a broken arm. So the conditions are far from ideal, even for the Super Climbers.

One Last Push

Project Possible

Probably the biggest storyline for this year, and in many years, is Nirmal Purja‘s effort to summit all 14 of the 8000-meter peaks in 7 months breaking the record of 7 years. This far he and his team of four Sherpas have summited 9: Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II. Now he is on K2 hoping to achieve what others could not – open a route to the summit in a year of deadly snow conditions. Assuming he gets K2, he still need to summit Broad Peak before leaving Pakistan for the final climbs in Tibet and Nepal. Even if he stopped now, his achievements has been amazing and shows what is possible by a gifted few.

Mixed Messages

After posting the SST team was ending their effort because “K2 was not ready in 2019”, they seem to have been drawn into Nims’ effort and Dawa Sherpa of Seven Summits Treks, whose Sherpas were fixing the rope from C4 to the summit but stopped due to deep snow, made this announcement. It appears most of their clients are joining in the push contrary to what they said only 18 hours prior to this post saying it was too dangerous:

Tonight we Seven Summit Treks collaborating with Elite Himalayan Adventures will move from Base Camp for another summit push of K2, Nims Dai and his team and SST fixing team scheduled summit date is 24th July and the team of Seven Summit Treks Members and Sherpas scheduled summit plan on 25th July.

•Fixing Team summit plan 24/07/2019

👉🏻 Nims Dai – Nepal 🇳🇵 Project possible
👉🏻Lakpadendi Sherpa – Nepal 🇳🇵 project possible
👉🏻Gesman Tamang – Nepal 🇳🇵 Project possible
👉🏻Changba Sherpa Nepal 🇳🇵 SST
👉🏻Lakpa Temba Sherpa – Nepal 🇳🇵 SST

•Manners 25/07/2019
👉🏻Stafanove – Bulgaria 🇧🇬SST
👉🏻Kalara- Czech republic 🇨🇿 SST
👉🏻Herbat Helmut – Germany 🇩🇪 SST
👉🏻Waldimir – Poland 🇵🇱 SST
👉🏻Hans – Austria 🇦🇹 SST
👉🏻Musess- Brazil 🇧🇷 SST
👉🏻Karina – Brazil 🇧🇷 SST
👉🏻David – USA 🇺🇸
👉🏻 Anaya Germany 🇩🇪

• Guide summit plan 25/07/2019
👉🏻Sherpa Chhepal – Nepal 🇳🇵 SST
👉🏻Nima Thinduk sherpa – Nepal 🇳🇵 SST
👉🏻Pemba Thinduk sherpa – Nepal 🇳🇵 SST
👉🏻Dilawar – Pakistan 🇵🇰 SST
👉🏻Sajeet – Pakistan 🇵🇰 SST
👉🏻Yasub – Pakistan 🇵🇰 SST
👉🏻Ngima Dorchi Sherpa – Nepal 🇳🇵 SST
👉🏻Mingtemba Sherpa – Nepal 🇳🇵 SST

No Os

Adrian Ballinger and Ecuadorians Carla Perez and Topo Mena made their last acclimatization rotation on the Česen. As I expected, Adrian made the announcement they will team with Nirmal Purja:

It’s time! Our summit push began today. @carla.perez.ec and @estebantopomena moved to Camp 2 in great weather. I “needed” another day of drinking coffee and laying around in the sun to recharge, so tonight will leave Base Camp at 2am along with @namgye and @pembageljesherpa, climbing 6500 feet of the best climbing around, direct to Camp 3 where the whole team will be together again. Then, 23rd to Camp 4 and 24th we will attempt the summit! The weather forecast is reasonable, which is as good as we’re gonna get.

And perhaps most fun, we are joining forces with @nimsdai to see if together we can unlock the code of the traverse reportedly buried in deep unstable snow. Nims and his Sherpa team have added a great influx of stoke and strength on #K2, just as 90% of climbers left the mountain. With Carla and I attempting without oxygen, we know we will not be much help opening a route through deep unconsolidated snow, never mind fixing ropes for others. While our support crew (on bottled oxygen) of Topo, Palden and Pemba are ready to do the backbreaking work of breaking trail, Nims and his team, also on bottled oxygen, have requested first shot at the slope above the Bottleneck! What can I say? They want it, and it helps Carla and I hugely! So we will be ready to jump in with our team’s strength and experience, or to hold back and let their team take first crack. I’m honored to share the mountain with a strong motivated crew, and can’t wait to help in any way my inevitably shattered body will allow.

Climbing without oxygen requires a whole lot of humility, a lesson beaten into me 3 years ago on E. I will happily take a backseat on this summit push if teammates and conditions allow. // Meanwhile, if you’re not following Nims quest to send all 14 x 8000meter peaks in 7 months, you should be. It’s an epic logistical and physical mission and K2 this week will likely be the key moment of the entire project! // No WiFi on the summit push so no news is good news until the 25th or so.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

  2 Responses to “K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage – Summit Push Underway Update 2”

  1.  

    Thanks for updates!

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