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Dec 242019
 

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s Imagine Nepal effort has been cleared to make a winter attempt on K2. They are back from Acocangua and will leave for Pakistan any day now. No updates on their financial issues but Minga told me it wouldn’t stop them.

Wajahat Khan of Ariprcot Tours, the logistics agency for MIngma’s effort, told me today that:

The climbing permit for “K2 Winter Expedition 2019-20” was issued yesterday (19th December, 2019). The team leader of the expedition is Nepalese mountaineer Mingma Gyalje Sherpa. Permission has been granted for a total of 7 mountaineers listed below:

  1. Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Nepal) – view profile
  2. Tamting Sherpa (Nepal) – view profile
  3. Pasang Namgel Sherpa (Nepal) – view profile
  4. Kili Pempa Sherpa (Nepal) – view profile
  5. John Snorri Sigurionsson (Iceland) – view profile
  6. Gao Li (China) – view profile
  7. Tomaz Rotar (Slovenia) – view profile

Broad Peak – Trekking to BC

Broad Peak First then Maybe K2

Denis Urubko’s goal is to complete, what he considers, the first true winter ascent of Broad Peak and then, perhaps, go to K2. He is teaming with Don Bowie and Lotta Hintsa who will stay in base camp to support the two climbers. They are the trek to base camp hoping to arrive around December 23. Bowie posted on IG:

Dinner time at 4276 meters elevation on the Baltoro Glacier. Our cook Mohsin is taking good care of us with delicious meals despite -20C temps. To stay warm and conserve energy, Denis Urubko, @lottahintsa, and I, sleep in the dining tent along with some of our base camp staff. Another 2 days and we should reach base camp- but the snow is getting deeper each day. Keep your fingers crossed for us… –

Nepal Cuts Climbing Permit Fees, but not for Everest

Once again the outstanding PR machine out of the Nepal Ministry of Tourism has succeeded in generating global headlines of “in 2020 Nepal will cancel and reduce the cost of climbing permits by 50%.” Kathmandu Post,

This is a nice deal on Dhaulagiri and Kanchenjunga which will now cost $900 instead of the usual $1800, 50% of the usual cost. But Everest remains at $11,000, no change at all as it generates the most revenue of all the peaks in Nepal. Last year 384 permits were issued.

A few other smaller peaks have low to no cost including Api, Saipal, Ganesh Himal. Gyalzen Peak but the largest sleight of hand was promoting that the popular 8000-meter mountain, Cho Oyu, will be offered at no fee, zero! But of course, Cho is usually climbed from the Tibet side. Since 1954, there have been 137 summits from the Nepal side and 3,707 from the Tibet side.


Winter 2019/20

Everest

K2

Broad Peak, then K2?

  • Denis Urubko – on trek

Gasherbrum I/II

  • Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger – in Pakistan

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

 

  5 Responses to “2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: K2 Permit Issued”

  1.  

    Are there Ice Fall Doctors at EBC?

  2.  

    TKS for always sharing your vast experience and knowledge!

  3.  

    Im cheering for the two K2 expeds Will take place to instill more action and maybe some history making in the season! Do you happen to know why Cho is mostly ascended from Tibet? I hope Mongma s funding campaign Will finally take off!

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