Category: Denali 2011

Denali 2011: Faliure or Non Summit?

When I started to leave the 17, 200 High Camp on Denali without standing on the summit, I wondered; how would people consider this effort. One person characterized it this way: “Alan, sorry to hear of the failure, but safety first. Safe travels home.” I understand. After spending eight days watching the swirling hurricane-force winds on the summit; it was safety first. We never got an opportunity to try to summit. It would have been suicide at most of the time. Denali, well known for some of the harshest weather for climbers, had shown her stuff. Of all my 7 Summits climbs, I knew this one (after Everest; which I had summited the previous month) was the most risky. I could control my preparation, my health but not the weather. So what was this effort: a failure or a “non-summit”? Well obviously for me it was not a failure. I believe that every person I reached with the message of hope, need and urgency around Alzheimer’s is one person more than if I didn’t try. I see a climb similar to research where not every effort results in achieving it’s goal but it does lead to new learnings and that has immense value. Besides, not trying is simply not an option. However, beyond all the climbing, my 7 Summits effort is about Alzheimer’s awareness and fundraising; not summits. I asked for a pledge of a penny a foot for every foot I climbed or $131 for Denali to one of the three non-profits. I was 3,000’ short making it $101 but everyone made the full pledge as if I had summited – so Denali is a summit for me! I am humbled and motivated by your reaction to my climbs. I will always do my for every Alzheimer’s family, researcher, support and my followers. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything Please continue to read this trip report from Denali 2011

Denali Playing Tough

Throughout the early hoursof Thursday morning, there was no wind and clear skies. However as I checked the skies at 7:00AM, the seemingly ever-present lenticular cloud once again hovered over Mt. McKinley suggesting high winds and dangerous windchills…

The Ups and Downs of Denali

The weather changed with the certainty of a Lindsey Lohane probation violation. Lying in our tent like sardines, uncomfortable both physically and mentally; the sudden quietness brought on by the lack of driving snow and wind caused everyone at High C…

Waiting on the Weather

Climbing big mountains is just like life – you don’t always get ask for – or is that a song lyric?In any case, I write this from High Camp at 17,200′ on Denali. Along with David, Byron and Martin, we are in various forms of consciousness listening to t…

Ready to Move Higher on Denali

Today, Friday, July 9th is a rest day at the 14 camp. We are all a bit nervous as the clouds have replaced the perfectly clear blue skies we have enjoyed the last few days. Hopefully we leave for High Camp at 17,200′ early tomorrow, Saturday morning. W…