Category: Kilimanjaro 2011

Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 7–Kilimanjaro

Of all the Seven Summits, Kilimanjaro offers a two-for kind of “climb.” Well, to be accurate, it’s more of a trek to 20,000 feet and a safari for those wanting more Africa. The experiences are a cultural treat made special by everyone you meet in restaurants and hotels, not to mention the guides, porters and safari leaders. It is a must-do for anyone seeking adventure and global education. Overview Kili is among the world’s highest volcanoes at 19,340 feet / 5894 meters. The highest is Ojos del Salado, at 22,615 feet/ 6893 meters on the Argentina/Chile border. German Hans Meyer first summited Kili in 1889. The volcano has three peaks: Kibo, Shira and Mawenzi, with Kibo being the summit. Many climbers consider it a walk-up, but it still represents a deadly threat when climbers go too fast or ignore challenging weather. The local park officials maintain strict rules and require local guides to accompany each team. The climb takes four to seven days, with seven being the suggested minimum time, with eight or nine even better, to allow for proper acclimatization. Tent camping is the standard on all routes. Porters carry most of the group gear, so climbers usually just manage a small day pack, weighing 10 and 15 pounds. Of note, the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project (KPAP) encourages climbers and visitors to support the Kili porters by donating clothes, but more importantly, it monitors operators regarding the fair treatment of all porters, including pay, health, insurance and gear. Kilimanjaro is the closest of the seven to the equator, so January, February and July through October will offer the best weather. March, April, and November are the rainy months. The second highest mountain in Africa is Mt. Kenya in Kenya, at 17,057’/5199m, 250 miles north of Kilimanjaro. Logistics and Difficulty Kili is a straightforward climb via the regular routes with no real objective danger except for cold summit weather. Porters carry everything for you, as the park regulations require, so all you have is a simple day pack with the bare essentials. The routes are very dry, and there is rarely snow at lower elevations but some snow on the summit. There is no crevasse danger like on Denali or Rainier, and it’s similar to a Colorado 14er (albeit higher) than Rainier or Denali. Most people find it manageable on a perfect weather day and regular routes. However, as with most extreme altitude climbs, Kilimanjaro can have brutal summit weather with temperatures at 0F. When the winds blow, the wind chills can be very dangerous. Climbers have died on Kilimanjaro. Also, remember that this is almost 6,000 meters or 20,000 feet, so AMS is always a risk, as is HAPE or HACE. It is estimated that 25,000 climb Kilimanjaro using the various routes each year. The summit rate is around 66%, with cold summit days and altitude issues being the primary reasons for not summiting. There is about one death each year, and is relatively safe; however, one climber was killed by lightning in early 2013 Kilimanjaro Moshi MarketMoshi Market Moshi Market Hiking on Kilimanjaro Hiking on Kilimanjaro The Baracco Wall on KIlimanjaro The Baracco Wall on KIlimanjaro Microclimates on KIlimanjaro Hiking on Kilimanjaro Camps on KIlimanjaro Porters on KIlimanjaro HIking on KIlimanjaro Alan on Kilimanjaro summit KIlimanjaro true summit Glaciers on Kilimanjaro Summit Crater Routes and Dangers While multiple routes exist on the mountain, several dominate. The climb is relatively tame compared to others, like Denali’s physicality, Carstensz’s technical climbing and Everest’s altitude. Five main routes meander through the jungle, crossing five microclimates to join the three final ascent routes to Kibo. Both the Machame and Lemosho routes offer a more leisurely-paced scenic climb. The Lemosho route is less crowded, while the Machame route has a more difficult beginning but joins into the same route as the Lemosho. The Marangu, aka Coco-cola route, is crowded since it follows a road part-way. It also offers a hut instead of sleeping in tents, but I’m not sure that’s advantageous given the conditions. The Northern Circuit is relatively new, and I think it’s a winner. It is a bit longer, which is good for acclimatization, but it is still very scenic and less crowded. “Climbing” My climb was more of a hike at a high altitude. I did the Machame route, which starts in the jungle at 10,000 feet / 3048 meters and goes through five microclimates to the summit. The trail was smooth primarily and well-worn. There was a bit of mud initially, so I appreciated having gators. Depending on your experience, the most “challenging” section was on the Baranco Wall, where we did some easy rock scrambling. Otherwise, the entire route to the summit and down was straightforward and similar to a Colorado 14er. Safari One of the all-time treats was going on an African safari. After our Kili climb, we took a short bush plane ride to the Serengeti. Landing on a grass strip, we were immediately greeted by a wild buffalo herd. I finally saw many animals I admired on television or in magazines. We went to the Ngorongoro Crater, the world’s largest – a previously collapsed volcano- and saw many more animals, including the rare Black Rhino, of which only 3,000 are in the wild. The safari guide was knowledgeable, explaining in detail what we saw and was happy to answer our questions. Serengeti Bush Plane Serengeti Black Rhino Serengeti Giraffe Serengeti Ostrich Serengeti Love Birds Serengeti Hyena Serengeti Sunset Serengeti Monkeys Serengeti Elephants Serengeti Crazy Bird Serengeti Lepoard Kill Serengeti Gazelle Serengeti Water Buffalos Serengeti Zebras Serengeti Baboon Summary Kilimanjaro is a fun cultural experience, but I enjoyed the safari more afterward. I would return for both the climb and the safari. If you want to cover all the Seven Summits angles, here is the list of nine climbs: Everest, Nepal – 29,035/8850m Aconcagua, Argentina – 22,902/6960m Denali, Alaska – 20,320/6194m Kilimanjaro, Africa – 19,340/5896m Elbrus, Russia – 18,513/5642m Vinson, Antarctica – 16,067/4897m Carstensz Pyramid

Climbing Memories Week 1

As I climb the world to end Alzheimer’s, I have taken literally thousands of photographs. I am posting many on Facebook over the next few months and will do a weekly summary post here on my site. I hope you enjoy them. Mt. Vinson, Antarctica This is one of my favorite memories from Antarctica’s Mt. Vinson at 16,050’/4892m in December 2010. We were approaching the summit using the so-called right-hand variation lead by IMG legend Phil Ershler. I documented the moment in my trip report: “ … we made steady progress to the next ridge where we meandered around jutting rock formations and large boulders marking the highest ridge in Antarctica. As I looked out across the horizon, I had to keep reminding myself that the white I was seeing was not clouds but snow and ice. It was simply breathtaking. I was following Phil as he came to a high step at a snow wall. “I am touching the summit plateau. Don’t fall here!” And with that he took a big step, assumed the stance of a sea captain looking over his crew and monitored each of us as we duplicated his moves. I stepped on the summit area and immediately saw a small snow prow jutting into the air – a tiny spot symbolizing the highest point on the Antarctic continent. With no control or editing, I let out a whoop of delight. We spent an hour on the summit – forever in mountaineering time. But the skies were clear and there was no wind. Temps were near -20F but I felt like I was on a beach.”   Serengeti,Tanzania (Kilimanjaro) After summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, we went on a short safari in the Serengeti. As much as I love climbing, the safari topped everything else on this trip to Africa. One moment is forever etched in my memory. Off to the right of the Land Rover walking slowly, methodically through the tall grass, was a full grown male Cheetah who suddenly stopped in his tracks. Slowly he turned his head to the left in order to see what the noise was all about. Perhaps it was lunch? Or maybe a mate, but no, this time it was just another load of tourists with their cameras clicking away. He moved on, not bothered in the least. Of course if he had wanted to, he would have taken off going from a dead stop to full speed of 60 miles per hours in just 3 seconds. Less than 10,000 of these magnificent creatures remain on earth. I am grateful he shared a few moments with me that September 2011 day.   Carstensz Pyramid, Puncak Jaya Indonesia The most exotic of the 7 Summits has to be Carstensz Pyramid in Puncak Jaya Indonesia at 4884 m (16,024 ft). it is the most “technical” of the 7 Summits, you do a bit of rock climbing, rappelling and a fun move called  a Tyrollean Traverse.  Basically you hang upside down from a rope/cable by your harness praying the cable was not installed by the headhunting, cannibal natives and that the inventors of nylon webbing knew what they were doing. If something fails, it’s several hundred feet to the first bounce off the rocks – a serious bad hair day! I understand they recently installed something called a Burma Bridge but I don’t think it an improvement. Tibet (Cho Oyu) In September 1998, I was on my way to climb Cho Oyu, 26,907’/8201m, in Tibet. This was my first ”big mountain” and first time in Tibet. I was awe struck by the barren, yet beautiful, landscape of the Tibetan Steps as it spread out as far as the eye could see at 14,000 feet. As we took our time to adjust to the ever increasing altitude, we stopped at several towns. Outside of one desolate town, Tingri, I came upon 50 tents – Tibetan nomads. The dark skinned Tibetan men enthusiastically gambled, rolling dice on the only paved highway for miles while the women tended to the sheep. I made my way to one pyramid shaped tent and gently looked towards an open flap. I made eye contact with an impressive woman and glanced at my camera, she simply nodded and placed her right hand on grand-baby’s leg. She looked at me for a slight moment as I pressed the shutter, careful to let the camera focus on this special moment. I slightly bowed my head and said thank you. I gave her a dollar bill. She smiled and pressed her palms together as I moved away. I wonder where these nomads are today, 17 years later. Are they still tending to their sheep, raising their children, living off the land? I would like to think their lives remain pure and simple in this difficult world.   Ama Dablam Ama Dablam is often considered one of the world’s most beautiful peaks. I was fortunate to summit it in October 2000. Standing tall at 22,494 feet or 6828 meters, it’s about 30 miles south of Mt. Everest. Anyone who has trekked in the Khumbu has many photos of this spectacular peak. Today Ama Dablam is quite crowded, as are many of the popular Himalayan Peaks and that is why Nepal opened up 104 new peaks for climbing last year. But in 2000, there was only a few other teams on the mountain and we had the summit all to ourselves. We had only one Sherpa, Lhapka, with us and he was amazing. The picture is of him approaching Camp 2. By the way, I’m looking forward to seeing the new film, Sherpa, featuring Phurba Tashi Sherpa of Himalayan Experience fame and who is tied with Apa Sherpa for a record 21 summits of Everest. When I first saw Ama Dablam in 1997 on a trek to Everest Base Camp, I dismissed it as impossible; I didn’t have the skills or ability to even attempt it. It was on my descent from the summit and

Kilimanjaro 2011 Final Trip Report

Glacier from Kili’s Summit Kilimanjaro was all I expected and much, much more. The climb itself was not the hardest but the descent was amongst the toughest when I twisted my ankle and had to be carried down from 15, try 000′. In my normal manner for all my climbs I have added a few pages to my site to document the expedition: Kilimanjaro 2011 Trip Report with videos Kilimanjaro FAQ Kilimanjaro and Serengeti Photo Gallery In spite of the last few hours of difficulty, the overall climb was good albeit a bit rainy and cloudy for over half of it. But on summit night, it cleared and all 14 of our IMG team made the summit; 100% success. Kilimanjaro is known as a walk-up trek or hike. Climbers ofter diss it as easy, not a challenge. While the trails are well groomed (or worn) and porters carry everything, there are a few parts that provide challenges for climbers of all skills. The climb up the Barranco Wall given the low clouds, mist and wet conditions was fun and provided a good taste of rock scrambling for everyone. But it is the altitude on Kilimanjaro that people often underestimate. At 19,340′; it is higher than any mountain in North America or Eastern Europe. This is an altitude where serious AMS, HAPE and HACE can easily occur. I personally saw several people struggling and some wisely turned back. So when we had 100% success for our team where 12 of our 14 members had never been above 14,000′; it was gratifying to join them. My ankle injury was so unexpected that even today, almost two weeks later, I cannot believe what happened. I detail the injury and the evacuation in the trip report. Again, my deep thanks to Eben Reckord of IMG, the lead local guide and porters on my rescue; Andrew and Mosha, the staff at the Moshi hospital and finally, my teammates for their help and support. One more thing about my trip to Africa, the safari. It was beyond my expectations how exciting it was. We flew to the Serengeti and then drove back to Arusha visiting the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater National Parks. The variety and abundance of wildlife was beyond understanding. I have a photo gallery of them along with pictures of the Kili climb at this link This trip epitomized that “Memories are Everything”.  Please read the trip report at Kilimanjaro 2011 Trip Report OK, next up is Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea. I leave in mid October. I fly from there to Australia to tag their highest peak, Kosciuszko, the 8th of the 7 Summits … but more on that later 🙂 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

The Serengeti Big 5

Appreciating the opportunity to let my ankle rest after the severe sprain high on Kilimanjaro, I looked out the window of our Land Cruiser along with 5 of my teammates; the views simply stopped me cold. Deep down I had always wanted to go on a safari in Africa but never thought I would have the opportunity. So with Kilimanjaro on my 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s agenda, and a short safari offered as an option; the opportunity presented itself. After our Kilimanjaro summit, ambulance we flew from Arusha to the small Seronera Airstrip on the Serengeti. There a modified Land Cruiser picked us up with our drivers James and Emmanuelle from Wildersun Safaris; all organized by IMG. I jumped in James’s vehicle. With 24 years of showing visitors his animals, I was never disappointed. This man simply had a wealth of knowledge and presented it clearly and on demand. For the next 2 days we drove around the Serengeti, the Ngorongoro Crater and throughout East Tanzania. I will post a complete album along with my Kilimanjaro photos but for now here are pictures of the so-called Big 5. This monicker was developed from hunters who found them the most difficult of all African big game to hunt. They had amazing memories, ability to withstand the shot and a skill for avoiding hunters altogether. In addition they were know to turn the hunters into the hunted. James told stories of how these animals remembered hunters from previous years. I am not sure how they knew this but we know about Elephants and how they remember points as they migrate. Once again, I am struck what a critical role memory plays in life. For the record the big 5 are lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino. These are a few of the pictures I took over the last two days. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

World Alzheimer’s Day from Kilimanjaro

As I leave our climb of Kilimanjaro, I wanted to send this special message today, World Alzheimer’s Day, September 21st. November is national Alzheimer’s month for an urgent reason: Alzheimer’s is growing faster than we are making progress on a cure. When I first started the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s in December 2010, every 70 seconds a new case was diagnosed in the United States; today it is every 69 seconds. The cost of caring for an individual in a facility has also grown dramatically from the $5,000 a month required for my mother a few years ago to $9000 a month according to one case. My summit of the highest peak in Antarctica was dedicated to those with early onset Alzheimer’s. And for those caring for their loved one at home? It is now documented that over half the caregivers suffer from lack of sleep, guilt and increased depression. I dedicated my summit of the highest peak in South America to family caregivers. But it is not hopeless. Major advances have been made in understanding Alzheimer’s. The Alzheimer’s Genome Project has identified four genes that are associated with the disease and that will help researchers on their quest to finding root causes. And multiple al trials are underway all towards finding methods of reliable early detection, improved ments and a cure. Researchers received the dedication from the summit of Mt. Elbrus in Russia. Recently President Obama signed into law the National Alzheimer’s Project Act (NAPA). This act would require the department of Health and Human Services to create a strategic plan for the federal government’s role in fighting Alzheimer’s disease, form an advisory council, and coordinate research, care, institutional services, and home- and community-based programs. This will put Alzheimer’s on a similar path taken by the Government for AIDS and cancer. As important as research is, increased awareness and understanding of Alzheimer’s is of equal importance. Knowing the signs that a person is showing early signs can help make the transition easier for everyone involved. The Alzheimer’s Association notes these difference between Alzheimer’s and typical age-related changes: Signs of Alzheimer’s  Typical age-related changes   Poor judgment and decision making  Making a bad decision once in a while  Inability to manage a budget  Missing a monthly payment Losing track of the date or the season  Forgetting which day it is and remembering later  Difficulty having a conversation  Sometimes forgetting which word to use  Misplacing things and being unable to retrace steps to find them   Losing things from time to time   And of course, once the symptoms appear learning to interact with an Alzheimer’s individual is paramount. But the bottom line is that love, attention to details and a caring environment goes a long way to making their journey as peaceful as possible. As I have now climbed 6 of the 7 Summits on six different continents, I have been amazed at how widespread this disease has become. I dedicated my summit of Mt. Everest to my mom and to all the mom’s around the world with Alzheimer’s. The impact on women is startling. One each climb, from Argentina to Russia; I have had multiple conversations with teammates, guides and local people about Alzheimer’s and the impact on their love ones. They all tell a similar story – that they did not see it coming in their loved one, the costs devastated family finances, they felt guilty and helpless to provide help. We have now sent our message of need, hope and urgency from the top of world and the top of the continents. This week it was from the roof of Africa, Mt. Kilimanjaro, dedicated to the dad’s with Alzheimer’s. I have been gratified with the response from our followers and the media. The donations will help fund critical research projects, caregiver support and overall education and awareness through our three nonprofit benefactors. Through the support of the Alzheimer’s Immunotherapy Program of Pfizer Inc. and Janssen AI on the 7 Summits Campaign all funds I have and will continue to raise go directly to three organizations I selected: the Alzheimer’s Association, the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund™ and the National Family Caregivers Association (NFCA). I hope you will donate to one them today. I climb to honor my mother, the 5.3 million individuals with Alzheimer’s in the US and the over 35 million worldwide. I will continue to climb and raise money and awareness. This disease is unfair, unpredictable and needs to be stopped. And with your help, it will be. You can read more about the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything at www.climb4AD.com Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything  

Brief KIlimanjaro Summit Recap

While climbing Kilimanjaro was not the most difficult of my climbing life, getting down was perhaps in the top three! We made the summit is good time and style after leaving the Barafu Camp at 15, search 000′ around midnight. The climb to the summit crater rim was mostly in mild temperatures with clear skies and obviously in the dark. As the sun rose over Mawenzi, search the adjacent excitement volcano and and part of the Kilimanjaro structure, we enjoyed almost perfect climbing conditions. The climb was on scree and dirt trails that switch backed endlessly reminding me of some of Colorado’s long scree climbs but this was at almost 19,000′. Once at Stella point, the entry to the crater rim, the crater was fully visible as were a few of Kilimanjaro’s remaining glaciers. I took the quick 10 minute walk to reach the world famous sign at the true summit and enjoyed the views while posting the audio dispatch noting November as World Alzheimer’s Month. The clouds covered the Savannah of Tanzina but it didn’t matter, the view was incredible. After an hour and half we left the top and returned in a swift two hours to Barafu, had a quick bite and left for Mweke camp to spend the night. That was when ‘it’ happened. My experience demands a full update but the short story is I folded my right ankle over itself along an innocuous trail at 15,000′ It immediately swelled with a tennis ball sized lump on the outside near the ankle bone. What transpired over the next 12 hours could be a movie, again for a future post. But after a long night in the Moshi hospital and an x-ray, it was a serous sprain but bad enough that I could not have walked off the high slopes of Kilimanjaro without the herculean aid of our local porter team. I know this is a tease but I have to do something to keep you interested in following me! Full details when I get home but I am still planning of leaving for Carstensz Pyramid in mid October. The full team is back down and feeling proud to have made the summit. 100% team success and hats off to IMG for a great trip. OK, that is all for now, Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

Kilimanjaro Home

One of my 7 Summits for Alzheimer’s climb – Africa’s Kilimanjaro and a safari.

Summit: Audio Dispatch from Mt. Kilimanjaro

I summited Kilimanjaro on September 19, 2011. It was a great climb. Read the full trip report for all the details. This is the audio dispatch I posted live from the summit; the 6th of my 7 Summits climbs. Click to listen: [audio:http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/audio/Kilimanjaro 2011 Summit.mp3|titles=Kilimanjaro Summit Audio Dispatch|artists=Alan Arnette] These climbs are to raise Alzheimer’s awareness and $1M for research. I lost my mom and two aunts to Alzheimer’s. Please join me to end Alzheimer’s by making a donation today. Read the details. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

Leaving for Kilimanjaro summit in 9 hours!

Barafu Camp, 15020 feet; the last camp before the summit. The team pulled into camp in good style around 1:00.During a lunch of watermelon, oranges, grilled cheese sandwiches and soup; Eben reviewed the summit plan. We will wake up and have ‘breakfast’…