Everest 2013: The Long Way to Base Camp
The teahouses are overflowing in the Khumbu as teams continue the migration towards Everest Base Camp (EBC). The early teams are now about midway through the trek while others just left Kathmandu yesterday. And some have not even arrived in Nepal. Some teams climbing from the north side will trek the Khumbu and climb a 6, 000 meter mountain for acclimatization due to the Chinese not opening their border until April 9th. Leaving home is one of the most difficult parts of an Everest climb. Robert Kay says it well as he prepared to leave the US: I’m excited to get to Kathmandu, drugstore my home away from home, and reunite with all my good friends there. I am also looking forward to eating at my favorite restaurants (The Third Eye, Thamel House, Pujan’s steaks, etc) and walking around Thamel looking at thangkas (a Tibetan and Nepalese art that I love). I am not looking forward to the goodbyes that also come with a long trip. It is tough to not see your family for two months. And Georgina Miranda, posted this in mid travel: After getting through security I was a bit of a sappy mess as it finally hit, that this all really was happening, it wasn’t just a dream, and that I was off to an incredible journey, for a great cause, and to push my limits once again and see what mother nature has in store for me! It was pretty emotional, and although it is sinking in as I sit here in Bangkok for my final flight, it still feels a bit surreal and maybe it won’t really hit until I land in Lukla and start walking through the Himalayas 🙂 However, once they arrive in Nepal, the adventure begins. David Tait, one of my all time favorite Everest writers during his climbs posted this as he arrived: But it’s Kathmandu. Nothing will ever change or improve here, and that’s why I love it. David’s posts are rich in emotion and detail as is his cause to end child abuse. If you only read one blog from the mountain throughout Everest 2013, David’s might be the one. Tengboche Monastery One of my favorite memories during the trek in, is the visit to the Monastery in the village of Tengboche. First built in 1923, it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1934 and by fire in 1989. Today it has been rebuilt and serves as home to around 100 monks. Some teams spend two nights in the area thus allowing time to attend morning or evening prayers by the monks. You climb the steep stone steps and enter the dirt courtyard. Looking at the red and yellow windows brings a sense of serenity even before you enter the Monastery proper. Taking off your shoes, you step high across the threshold taking a moment to let your eyes adjust to the darkness combined with the filtered sunlight entering the narrow windows. A young monk with his short cropped hair, smiles and waves you to his left. An invitation to participate but according to their rules. One by one you softly walk across the well-worn wooden floor and take your place on the thick woven mats spread across the floor. Some choose to sit cross legged, other use the hard wall as a backrest. It is cold. Your eyes now adjusted, you look around. A huge Buddha, looming behind the alter looks over everyone. Butter lamps provide a soft glow with their flickering flames. The ceiling is tall, everything created by hand, the murals ly hand painted by monks who journeyed from Tibet to rebuild the Monastery. You are looking at history, at tradition. Soon the monks enter the room and take their place on short benches also layered with thick Tibetan rugs. They look warm in their crimson robes, while you shiver in your down jacket. Silence fills the room until a deep chant begins followed by a harmony of baritones from the monks. The chanting is soft and easy. It is soothing. You are lost in your own thoughts, closing your eyes to let the moment sink in. Suddenly, you are awakened from your trance by the shocking sound of a deafening drum beat, then the clash of a symbol. The monks don’t flinch. After a while, they take a break as the youngest amongst them serves the elders tea. You look on with envy. The chanting continues but it is time for you to move on. Leaving the Monastery, the sun is bright. The high Himalaya surrounds you. Ama Dablam looks down on you, Everest in the distance. Perhaps you have found your own Monastery. Shortcuts As I said earlier in this post, leaving home for two months is tough, very tough. You have to be clear on your purpose to be away from family that long. For me, the trek through the Khumbu has always been as much a meaningful part of the experience as the climb itself. I have made that trek six times and it never gets old. But for some climbers in search of shortcuts, they are ing to shorten the trek, and the experience. Alpenglow is offering a 45 day Everest schedule for 2013. This compares with 60 to 71 days by the other commercial teams. One way they are reducing the schedule is by taking a helicopter to the village of Lobuche at (16,210’/4940m) and then acclimatizing on Island Peak (20,305’/6189m), including two nights on the summit. This will reduce at least two rotations through the Icefall and the team will spend one week at Camp 2 instead of the normal two night schedule plus one at Camp 1 over two rotations through the Icefall. The members will take a helicopter out from EBC after the summit attempt. In speaking with Alpenglow’s owner, Adrian Ballinger, he is ing to meet the requests of busy members. In addition to spending less time on the mountain itself, his members are
Everest 2013: Weekend Update March 31
The last week of March has been busy for the Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers. Many left home, arrived in Kathmandu and have already started their trek towards their respective base camps. But many more will arrive this next week following closely behind in their journey. Not many trekkers and climbers post blogs after Namche due to slower, advice expensive Internet connections, if they can find them at all. Some will use their smart phones to post a quick Tweet or Facebook post but most are now settled in to enjoy the experience, leaving us back home to dream. Overview As we approach April, it is time to review the overall schedule. In general both the north and south side expeditions can be divided into thirds: travel to Base Camp, acclimatization climbs, and summit push. Right now teams on the south are trekking to Base Camp and those climbing from the north will not cross into Tibet until April 9th. Both sides will begin their acclimatization climbs between April 10th and 20th depending on their overall schedule. Look for the first western summits to occur in mid May probably from the south. This is the overview for the western climbers, for the Sherpas it is entirely different. Many Sherpas have already arrived at Base Camp to build tent platforms, setup the multitude of tents and prepare for the influx of climbers. As soon as the fixed lines are in, those same Sherpas will ferry tents, food, fuel, oxygen bottles and gear to stock the higher camps. The fixed lines on the south are historically put in by a dedicated team of Sherpa through the Western Cwm to Camp 2 and by the climbing teams from there to the summit. On the north in recent years, Tibetan climbers from the CTMA manage the ropes. They arrive early to be ahead of the climbers. The past few years, the north side has lagged the south by a couple of weeks. However, remember that the north side does not “close” and can support climbers into early June before the monsoons arrive. The South has a hard stop at June 1 due to melting ice and snow in the Icefall making it very dangerous. We can expect reports of the upper mountain conditions in mid April and perhaps first summits by the Sherpas fixing line as early as May 1. Living the Trek While the Sherpas are working hard, the climbers are also working hard but in a different way. The trek to Base Camp is a critical part of the acclimatization program. In addition, it is also one of the most memorable parts of the entire expedition. Walking the well worn dirt trails brings a clarity to your purpose. There are no cars to distract you, no mountain bikes to dodge; only zo and yak trains that become a friendly change of pace with their loud bells and swishing tails. Passing by other trekkers or Sherpas, you greet each other with a gentle “Namaste” which literally means “bow me you” or “I bow to you.” The chilly mornings give way to warm days and the lunch break becomes welcome. A time to catch up with your teammates, rest your feet and enjoy a simple meal of rice and potatoes. Momos are a favorite! It is difficult not to look up all the time in spite of the rocks on the trail that can grab your ankle with no notice. But the mountains are so high, so large; snow covered with light clouds floating beside their summits, you stare wondering where this has been all your life. Small children often line up outside their simple home as you pass through their village. Their smiles and laughs are contagious as they play with a simple plastic bottle or sticks. Some are dressed for school, looking smart in the clean uniforms. They don’t ask for handouts any more but a simple writing pen for school will produce many tiny hands. Few people talk as they trek, not because of the altitude, even though it is becoming more serious; but rather each is lost in their own thoughts. Trying to solidify what they have just seen, making sense of what is happening to them. Music through earbuds is common but also to walk quietly listening to the low hiss of the rushing Dudh Kosi river in the deep ravines. The occasional gorak (raven) will soar overhead sending out a screech to let you know you are not alone. If you are lucky, you will see a Himalayan Tahr, perched on a high cliff or a musk deer grazing nearby. Trekking the Khumbu changes lives. It is a gift. Pending Arrival I have updated the location page showing who is in Kathmandu and who is already on the trek. This is a rough estimate right now. However, not everyone is in Nepal or Tibet as Bob Kerr posted yesterday: We were dropped off at the airport in plenty of time by my parents and got all of my luggage checked in now. Still some final tweaks to do but that’ll get done in London. It was nice to be seen off at the airport by my parents. Sarah and I are currently relaxing with a glass of wine then we’ll be London bound. Flight 1 of ?. I say of ? because there has been a last minute itinerary change sent through this morning as the Tibetan border crossing will not open until 9th April. Obviously this is not an ideal situation but we are at the mercy of the Chinese so will have to cope with it. This not unusual for the boarder to remain closed as the Chinese like to control the traffic so as not to coincide with historic days of revolutions or protests. Mountain Management Eric Simonson, of IMG, has been reporting for over a week on the work of the Icefall Doctors as they progress higher. He says the IMG base camp
Everest 2013: Trekking the Khumbu
Like a herd of gazelles on the Serengeti, climbers and trekkers are moving methodically towards Everest Base Camp, and their dream. The trails between Lukla and Gorak Shep are filled with thousands who keep one eye on the trail and the other on the skyline. For many, this is a trip of a lifetime, for others it is the beginning of a quest. The large commercial climbing teams will often offer a trek. For the trekkers, it is a great way to see the Khumbu and to get to know aspiring Everest climbers. For the climbers, it is nice to get to know people other than your climbing team whom you will live with in close quarters over the next two months. Usually western guides and part of the Sherpa team will be along to point out the sights and lead the way from tea house to tea house. The Khumbu The Khumbu has changed dramatically over the past couple of decades. The teahouses have improved over the ones with poorly ventilated, dark and cold rooms. Today, the newer ones have large windows, big tables seating entire teams and excellent food and service. The sleeping rooms are still tiny, cold and dark; but after a long day trekking most people don’t care. The typical schedule is similar to this one: Trek to Phakding (or Monjo) at 8694′ (mostly flat to downhill) Trek to Namache at 11,300′ (significant uphill trek) visit the market, Everest museum, local schools, bakery, Everest View Hotel Rest day and tour in Namache Trek to Thame at 12,464′ visit the Thame Monastery. Not part of every trek Trek to Tengboche (or Deboche) at 12,683′ visit the Monastery, meet the Monks Trek to Periche at 13,907′ visit the Himalaya Rescue Association Trek to Lobuje at 16,174 see the Sherpa Memorial en route Trek to Gorak Shep at 16,924 Climb Kala Patar 18,192′ with outstanding views of Everest Base Camp, Ama Dablam and Mount Everest Trek to Everest Base Camp at 17,500′ Many climbing teams now add climbs of smaller trekking peaks to aid in the acclimatization process. Climbs of Lobuche East or Island Peak (Imja Tse). These 6,000 meter climbs can be difficult but are within the skills of Everest climbers. UK Guide, Tim Mosedale describes his thoughts on getting to EBC: 5 of us are taking a leisurely 3 weeks to trek in to Everest Base Camp and I’ll be taking them over 3 high passes along the way. We’re crossing The Renjo La, The Cho La and, after a couple of days resting at Dingboche, we’ll be crossing the Kongma La as well. We will be sleeping a few hundred meters below each pass – the idea being that we are spending time at higher and higher altitudes prior to arriving at EBC. We are also ascending a peak called Pokalde as part of our acclimatisation which is just short of 6,000m. In late March the weather is still cool, in fact cold at night. But once the sun shines, it is very comfortable. Hopefully the clouds from the long winter have cleared away providing magnificent views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kantega and of course Everest. First View Everest is often sighted on the uphill walk below Namchie. However, most people miss it as you have to go slightly off trail and look between the high mountain ridges. Once at Namche, almost a right of passage, is to go to the Everest View Hotel. Once a high-class lodging designed primarily for Japaneses visitors, it offers one of the s of Everest during the trek. One of my memories is sitting on the hotel deck at one of the picnic tables, drinking coffee and eating fries (pretty civilized, huh?) staring at Everest off in the distance. It looked huge. The westerly winds of the jet stream creating the signature plume. It looked huge, high and forbidding. Everest was not open for business that day. It is a magical moment for each person to see Everest. No picture, video or story can touch your inner emotions like seeing it for the first time. Today, Saturday, teams are reporting in on their progress. There are mixed reports of clear, cold days but some cloudy, rainy ones as well. Base Camp updates reveal snow. It is starting to feel a lot different than last year when we heard stories of a “dry year”. Snow is good for the mountain climbers, but not too much! The Icefall Doctors are making great progress getting the fixed lines set into the Western Cwm. But we are weeks away for most climbers to start the serious stuff. Now their job is to focus on the present. Enjoying every moment. Climb on!AlanMemories are Everything Personal Note: I want to thank everyone for their kind comments and emails as I startup my Everest 2013 coverage. It is nice to see old friends back and many new names in the comments.
Everest 2013: Interview with Georgina Miranda – More than a Climb
This interview with Georgina Miranda is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, look sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, prescription who often have full time jobs, full time families and climb for the love of the climb. This is the last interview for 2013 as the regular seasons starts up. Now here’s Georgina: She is a consultant by profession. You know, sitting on windowless conference rooms giving and listening to PowerPoint presentations all day long. She helps companies accomplish their objectives. For people, she helps them accomplish their dreams. Georgina’s story has a similar beginning like many climbers. She took a rock climbing course and was hooked. She went on day hikes, enjoying the down time. But a magazine article on the plight of women in the Congo changed her forever. She made a big decision to use her newfound passion of climbing to bring awareness and raise money to stop the violence against women in the war-torn Democratic Republic of Congo. She started a foundation and campaign, Climb Take Action. With her sights set on the 7 Summits, Georgina has reached the top of five. Now she is climbing Everest with her mission. Please meet Georgina Miranda: Q: Your foundation, Climb Take Action, is focused on helping women in the Congo. This is an enormous issue. Can you tell us why this cause has become so personal for you and how it is going? What started out in looking for a new hair cut idea, turned into a campaign to raise support and awareness for women in Congo by climbing the world’s 7 summits. Sound a little crazy? Probably. In late 2007 I read an article that changed my life and set me on a mission to empower women in Congo (Glamour” magazine). The article educated me on the fact that thousands of women and girls were being sexually abused, which was unfathomable and unacceptable. No victim was too young or old ranging from only a few months old to women in their late 70s. Why did no one know this was happening? I immediately decided to create the Climb Take Action~7 Summits Challenge, geared at raising funds and awareness for women in Congo as I attempted to fulfill my dream of climbing the world’s Seven Summits. Having been out to the field and meeting some of these women back in 2009 has made this very personal to me. I cannot forget their stories and their strength in surviving some unimaginable experiences. New statistics show 48 women are raped per hour and that the sexual violence in DRC is some of the worst in the world. Some very memorable moments over the past few years of Climb Take Action have been when others joined us for our climbs and treks! We had a team of 9 head to Kilimanjaro in 2009 on behalf of the cause and then in 2011 we had a team trek to Everest Base Camp with us. So very grateful for those that joined us on the journey and helped us raise support and awareness! Q: You say “It only takes one.” What does this mean? The problem in DRC impacting women is a large one, and my campaign alone will not solve the problem by any means, but it helps to raise awareness and support for two extraordinary non-profits, International Medical Corps and V-DAY, doing life changing work for these women. It is a collective effort that will make the broader difference indeed. Yet, my belief is that if you can have a positive impact in one life, that is all it takes because for that one person they now have hope and the means to keep living. Having an impact is often measured in scale, yet impact on an individual standpoint should not be discredited, as for that one person impacted their world is changed. Q: You have climbed five of the seven summits. Given you were born and still live in California, where did the love of mountains begin? I grew up in Los Angeles and as a child got to visit Yosemite, Big Sur, and do local hikes around Griffith Park. My first “serious” hike was Mt. Baldy in 2006 🙂 It was not until I was an adult working full time and going to grad school full time at night that I discovered my real passion for the mountains and the outdoors. The mountains created an incredible escape away from the corporate world and textbooks. They also encouraged me to explore and push new limits I had never thought possible and changed my perspective on life in so many ways. I feel I discover a new part of myself every time I am out in the mountains, a magical experience really. Q: Your parents are from San Salvador and Nicaragua. What do they think of their mountain climbing daughter? This is a tough question, because my climbing has caused some tension in the family. My dad has been super supportive and even joined me on some of the climbs- he joined my team for Kilimanjaro and then came to Everest Base Camp last time I was on Everest in 2011. He has become quite the avid hiker now 🙂 He has always had an adventurous spirit and encouraged me to keep going. Others in my family worry about my safety on these climbs and would have preferred for me to choose a less risky sport 🙂 Q: You stopped on Everest in 2011 near the Balcony (27,500 feet) due to altitude related issues. Smart decision to turn back but it must have been gut wrenching. Can you walk us through what happened? The night of May 12/13 2011 will live with me forever. I had been feeling good throughout the beginning of our summit push from base camp. When we got to high camp on the 11th of May 2011 the wind had kicked up and our team was pretty exhausted. Enough of our team members had turned around early on and so it allowed the 7 of us left
Everest 2013: The Kathmandu Shuffle
The activity is really picking up in Kathmandu. The flight from Bangkok, ed Thai Airways TG319, doctor lands around 12:30 bringing a plane full of aspiring climbers and trekkers each day. Others arrive from Hong Kong, Delhi, Karachi or Bahrain. Regardless of the route, the arrival experience is the same. You go down the stairs, no jet ways at the Tribhuvan International Airport, stepping onto the tarmac. The temperature is around 80F/27C but it can feel a bit cool, even refreshing in late March. I have never understood this, but everyone rushes towards the customs room. In a week, everyone will be walking slowly, taking everything in but old habits die hard so the stampede to get your entry visa begins. If this is your first time to Kathmandu, you may think you have gone back in time by say, 50 years, maybe more. You need to have your visa form completed, some download it from home or get it on the airline thus come prepared and save a few minutes. You need your passport photos and payment in cash only. Most climbers get the 90 day visa for USD$100. You hand your paperwork to the first man sitting behind a wooden desk, who looks at it, then passes it to the next guy who stamps it, who then hands it to the next one who looks at it and then looks at you which is your prompt to hand him your money. There may be another step in the process, but it all goes smoothly and before you know it you are in Nepal! Collecting your bags is a live demonstration of chaos theory combined with meaningful prayer but, again, it all works out and you heave your duffel onto a rickety cart and head for the exit. Hey, not so fast! You need to have you bags x-rayed but if there is a long line, some people slink by unnoticed, not advised but frequently done. By this time, you feel like a pro and you push your cart towards the light of the day and the crowds outside the airport. Scanning for your name on a small poster, you feel instant relief that your ride is there. Maybe you are not a pro quite yet. Most likely you now meet some of your teammates who you had noticed on the flights by their backpacks, military style haircuts, pony tails and trekking shoes. Somehow the fresh air has been replaced by a closed in feeling of humidity perhaps a physical reaction to what you are about to start. But you squeeze into a small van, or tiny cab for the ride to your hotel. The drive is total culture shock. Instantly you know why they say the national bird of Nepal is the car horn. Weaving in and out of traffic, your driver is skillful and oblivious to the other cars, the one traffic light in all of Nepal, the pedestrians and, of course, the cows sleeping quietly in the middle of the road. Feeling like you are on a tour of the back alleys of Kathmandu, the driver eventually pulls into a peaceful courtyard where a small man in a uniform greets you with a huge smile. You have arrived! The teams are going through the next steps to climb Mt. Everest. The leaders meet with the Ministry of Tourism for the required briefing. More of a formality, it is part of the process to receive your climbing permit and to be assigned a liaison officer. The liaison officer is supposed to stay with the team throughout their entire climb but in reality make a brief appearance at base camp, and return home for a paid vacation. This can be a problem if a death occurs or helicopters are needed for a rescue since that is one of the responsibility of the officer to facilitate such events. But like everything in Nepal, somehow it gets done, officially or unofficially. One of the first order of business for many climbers, and trekkers, is to get a sim card for their cell phone. Ncell is the preferred carrier because they charge 1.99 Nepalese Rupee (USD $0.02) per minute for a call to the US. There is coverage throughout Nepal and up to Everest Base Camp. In 2011, I was able to get a weak signal all the way to Camp 2 and some report a connection from the summit itself! Back at the hotel, another meeting takes place. The renowned Elizabeth Hawley meets with the expedition leaders to collect names, itineraries, routes and anything else she needs to confirm your summit after the climb. At 90 years-old, she is a marvel of energy and organization. I interviewed her partner, Richard Sailsbury in the Himalayan Database in February. If your name is not in the database, you did not summit. So, climbers, trekkers, organizers, Sherpas – everyone is enjoying their time in Kathmandu. Eating at favorite restaurants, ing last minute gear or just playing tourist. Even the world class climbers are getting into the action. I love the blog post for Denis Urubko, who along with Alexey Bolotov will be attempting a new route on the Southwest face. The flights to the “world’s most dangerous” airport in Lukla are running at a frenzied pace, but that is another story. Climb On! AlanMemories are Everything
Everest 2013: Interview with Gosia Borchardt – Pushing Her Limits
This interview with Gosia Borchardt is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, here who often have full time jobs, full time families and climb for the love of the climb. This is one of the last interviews as the regular seasons starts up. Now here’s Gosia: As a Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA) working at Barnes-Jewish Hospital in St. Louis, Gosia has seen it all. In her capacity, she is responsible for keeping up with blood loss and running a couple of Level-1 transfusers, or preventing someone’s heart attack or stroke by monitoring their vital signs and correcting them appropriately. In her spare times, she participates in yearly medical missions to the Dominican Republic and climbs mountains. With the goal of reaching the top of the 7 Summits, Gosia has climbed Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Aconcagua and had an “interesting” experience on Denali. She now has her analytical eyes set on Everest and is putting everything she has into getting ready. Born and raised in Poland, her mother won a visa lottery and the entire family moved first to Chicago then to St. Louis when Gosia was 15. She is surrounded by support with her husband, Andy, going to Base Camp with her. Gosia had to apply for a leave of absence from her hospital but once her supervisors understood that it was not everyday someone has the chance to climb Everest, they fully supported her dream. An avid photographer, she is excited to capture the experience and then to sell them in her local fairs when she returns home Please meet Gosia Borchardt. Q: Let’s start with your in 2010 of Thoracic Outlet Syndrome (TOS), a rare condition that involves pain in the neck and shoulder, numbness and tingling of the fingers, and a weak grip. The ment involved two high risk surgeries. How are you today? I am pretty much 100% back to normal if I take necessary precautions. I have a winged scapula which contributed to my TOS so proper posture at all times is mandatory. For my hiking and mountaineering I selected a backpack with a huge reinforced waist belt and I modified it so the straps sit above my shoulders and there is no pressure over the surgical area. I have been symptoms free for over a year now, but I realize that TOS is a chronic condition, so I hope that by taking the described precautions I will continue to be healthy. Q: Similar to many Everest climbers, you are going for the 7 Summits with Kili, Elbrus and Aconcagua already completed. Why the 7 Summits? While hiking Kilimanjaro someone put a bug in my ear about the 7 Summits. After completing Elbrus and Aconcagua I decided to really go for it! I think that climbing these mountains is an ultimate test of physical and mental fitness. Some people do marathons… I do the mountains 🙂 Q: Everest is a long expedition being gone for 2 months. Any thoughts on how to cope missing home, family and your beloved Saint Bernards and a cat during that time? I am lucky enough to have my husband accompany me all the way to Base Camp. I will certainly miss him and the rest of my family/friends during the remaining time on the mountain, but it will only be 6-7 more weeks. When I climb I try to take one day at a time and it helps to know that people back home are rooting for my success, and by thinking of me they are essentially ‘with me’ throughout the whole climb. Q: You were turned back on Denali by weather, was there a lesson from that experience you will apply on Everest? I was actually turned back from Denali and Elbrus by weather… I went back to summit Elbrus the following year and I plan to go back to Denali next year to hopefully reach the peak. It is certainly extremely disappointing that after so much hard work and having the summit within the grasp of my hand I had to turn around… Everest is a one-time deal for me (unless I win a lottery!!!) so if that happens I will be heart broken!! However, I will choose my life, fingers and toes over a pile of rock and snow any time!! :). Even if it is the highest mountain of the world 🙂 Q: A common question is how “regular” people finance expensive climbs like Everest. I see that you have take a second mortgage out on your home. Is Everest that important to you? Everest certainly is important… Can’t complete 7 Summits without Everest!! Even though I took out an extra loan for for the expedition, I believe that it is only money! I have been working overtime to help reduce the debt, and with time and maybe some sponsorship (hint hint to the generous readers out there?!) I will eventually pay it off. Again, I am very fortunate to have an understanding husband who shares my beliefs in living life to the fullest, and who fully supports my dreams. Q: You are very clear that safety is number one for you Gosia. What steps are you taking to ensure that objective? First off, my choice of the outfitter I am going with on the mountain. I have climbed with 2 other companies and I can say hands down that Alpine Ascents is the safest and most organized company so far! I have also climbed with my to-be-Everest-guides, Garrett Madison (Aconcagua) and Brien Sheedy (Denali), and I am extremely confident in their skills. I know they will not let anything bad happen to me!Besides choosing the top notch company, I always take necessary steps to stay healthy on the mountain. I drink a lot of fluids and make myself eat a lot to stay warm and energized. Being a sweets addict that I am, I
Everest 2013: Weekend Update March 24
The Everest 2013 season has begun! Teams are streaming into Kathmandu this weekend preparing for a journey of a lifetime. For the first time climbers, s the sights, smells and sounds of Kathmandu take them to another place in time. For the returning climbers, memories are activated of previous adventures. And for everyone, there and back home, stomachs turn in anticipation. Numerous teams have already started their trek towards Everest Base Camp. This should take about 7 to 10 days depending on their side trips. The trek is a critical part of any high altitude climb as it prepares the body for the extreme altitudes yet to come, not to mention an amazing experience on it’s own. Also, there are throngs of trekkers making their way to Everest Base Camp. This is how my love affair with the Himalaya started back in 1997. I saw Everest, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu for the first time, never dreaming I would climb them one day. I always say, if you have a chance to trek in Nepal, it will change your life. For Nepal climbers, they fly into Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary airport at 9,400 feet. If they are climbing from Tibet, most will start with an overland journey and a week long drive through the amazing Tibetan countryside. Regardless, it is an adventure. I’m excited to start my annual coverage with almost daily updates of the season. If you have followed me in the past you know I try to reflect on my own adventures in Nepal and Tibet with a few personal stories and pictures. As soon as the climbers get settled and start updating their blogs, I will integrate their live updates into my coverage. Adventure Paraphrasing Thorton Wilder’s quote on adventure: “An adventure is when you are in it you pray to come home alive, and when you are back home, you pray to go back.” That is how I feel about Everest. If you have ever been at Everest Base Camp when a tired, exhausted climber returns from the summit, well, it is inspiring. All the pains go away, huge smiles and easy laughs emerge as the climber rallies to tell her tale; her audience spell bound even though they have heard similar stories before. At the other end of the experience are the climbers who return without the summit. Some are pleased with their effort and join in the celebration; others are devastated as the dream melts away like the ice under their feet. Huge, strong men fight the tears with gasps of air. What is a summit? What is a climb? It is simplistic to wave it away as hubris, the indulgences of the self-absorbed, the narcissistic looking for bragging rights. Are there climbers guilty of these at times? Of course, but Everest has a way of bringing every climber back to reality. For many Everest climbers, the weeks and months back home from the climb are difficult, regardless of the result. For summiters, there is adjusting to reality of a goal accomplished and the inevitable question of what’s next. There is an unexpected feeling of loss on top of accomplishment. For those who did not make the summit, the journey back is even more difficult. There are few words to describe what happened. There is no headline but one is created to satisfy those party conversations. Deep down, each answer is followed by a long inward look. Why climb this beast if it destroys you regardless of your result? Lying in the tent at 23,000 feet knowing the time has come to push harder than you have ever pushed for anything brings focus to life. Quiet words over deafening winds with a teammate lying a hair width away in their sleeping bag, you both stare at the ceiling sharing thoughts that few would understand. A lifetime bond is made with simple words and shorts glances. The climb itself is lonely. One step followed by heavy breaths. You look around for support from friends, strangers, anyone – anything human. You take strength from the climber making progress ahead of you. You take lessons from the struggling one. The images are locked in your memory for life. You wish you were somewhere else, anywhere. Maybe home, perhaps a beach with your spouse, your kids. You want to go down. But you don’t. Why would anyone do this to themselves? Today hundreds of climbers from around the world are starting this journey. Many don’t know what they don’t know. Others know it too well. Each will come home with few words to explain what happened. But they will have a different look in their eyes, a different view of the world, of themselves. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
Everest 2013: Nepal Base Camp Established
Getting a jump on the Everest season, International Mountain Guides (IMG) has starting building their base camp on the Khumbu Glacier. The first climbers will not arrive until the first or second week of April as they will trek in from Lukla to acclimatize. Eric Simonson reported: IMG expedition sirdar Ang Pasang called from Everest Base Camp to report that our advance sherpa team of 14 sherpas and 3 cooks have now established our Base Camp! Now, they are hard at work, with lots of tent platforms to build and tents to erect. After deciding exactly where to set up the tents, Ang Pasang is heading back down to get ready to receive the next shipment of loads being sent from kathmandu and headed up the hill. He said base camp area is looking pretty good, but that the terrain has changed a lot just since they were up there in December to reserve the campsite. Every day the Khumbu Glacier continues to move and melt, and the tents will need to be reset over the course of the expedition. Icefall Doctors at Work He also mentioned that the Icefall Doctors are already at base camp and will start fixing the lines in the Khumbu Icefall. In 2012, the Icefall was in on April 4, so they are on schedule this year or even a bit ahead. Perhaps with the extra time, they will investigate a slightly different route away from the avalanche prone West shoulder of Everest. New Route Postponed Updated from russianclimb.com that “20 March, 2013 Gleb Sokolov didn’t find enough money for his Everest project (new line on Kanchung Face in alpine style), so postponed it to next year”. This is the second year in a row, they had not found the funding at the last minute. Sokolov and Alexander Kirikov planed to climb a new route from Tibet on the East Face ( Kangshung Face) in alpine style without oxygen. Climb OnAlanMemories are Everything
Everest 2013: Interview with Robert Kay – Nepal Connections
This interview with Robert Kay is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who often have full time jobs, full time families and climb for the love of the climb. I welcome suggestions for anyone climbing in 2013 I should interview. Now here’s Robert: Originally from Australia, Robert and his family visited Colorado back in 1973, and never left. An avid skier, Robert has skied some of the Colorado 14,000 foot mountains, Europe’s Mt. Elbrus and Mont Blanc plus Orizaba and Manaslu.. In spite of this love affair with the mountains, he now lives in Nebraska where he owns the motorcycle dealership, Star City Motor Sports recognized as one of the top 100 dealers nationwide by Dealernews Magazine. Like many Everest climbers, Robert read Annapurna by Maurice Herzog when he was 15. He dreamed of climbing the big mountains and now has attempted Everest once, summited Manaslu (26,759’/8156m), Island Peak (20,305’/6188m), Lobuche East among other and is going back to Everest this year at age 51. Today, training is a big part of life including his beloved Jacobs Ladder: Robert says the culture is as important to him as the climb. This might be due to his family living in Bangladesh when he was six years old. Leading an international life continues today with Robert and his wife adopting two daughters from Nepal. Now, please meet Robert Kay: Q: You have two adopted daughters from Nepal. Can you tell how special that is? A. In 1993 my wife and I decided we wanted to adopt a child from a Third World country and since we’d both spent a lot of time in Nepal and loved the Nepali people we quickly settled on this special place. We went through all the home study requirements in Colorado and by November, 1994 we had completed a one month stay in Nepal and signed the last of the documents to complete the adoption of our daughter Soni. Fast forward more than 18 years and she is mid-way through her pre-med training at Point Loma Nazarene University in San Diego. Soni is incredibly smart, hard working and has a beautiful and outgoing personality. She is everything anyone could wish for in a daughter. No boy is worthy of her in this overly protective father’s mind! Through all these years we kept in touch with Soni’s birth mother and in 2008 I returned to Nepal for the first time in 14 years and reunited with her. She lives in Jharkot, the first village below Muktinath and the Thorung La pass on the Annapurna trekking route. It was on this visit that I also first met her husband and two of her five kids, including Kalpana, who has a birth defect with her eyes. Our family stayed in touch and in September, 2011 on another visit to Nepal to climb Manaslu, I arranged permission to take Kalpana to visit some eye spets in Kathmandu. They didn’t offer much hope, but my wife and I felt more and more of a burden to help Kalpana so I returned to Jharkot in November to gain permission from her parents to bring her to the US for medical attention and also education. They granted this permission and then shortly after this Kalpana’s father unexpectedly passed away. With a tremendous amount of help from two wonderful Nepali friends plus Trish Crampton of Altitude Junkies fame, we finally succeeded in gaining a visa for Kalpana to come to live with us. Soni and I went to Kathmandu in May, 2012 to bring Kalpana home to Nebraska. After Kalpana had been with us for several months we found our feelings and attitude towards her changing and felt we should talk with her mother about adopting her. The mother visited us last winter and eagerly agreed and now we have almost completed the adoption process. Kalpana is 15 and has amazed us with how fast she’s learned English and come to love her new life in the US. She is a fun-loving, delightful member of our family. She also loves to ski which really pleases me! We feel such a huge debt to the birth mother for giving Soni to us and we also feel like she and her family are truly part of our family. With this in mind we are now arranging for the remaining four kids plus several cousins to all live in Kathmandu in one home and attend a quality school there. This will be the first time the four siblings have been together for any substantial piece of time as they’ve been “farmed out” to four different schools in four different areas of Nepal. We are very excited to do this and part of my time in Nepal this spring will be spent with them and ensuring that everything is as we have envisioned for these great kids. My son seems to get left out of these discussions because his story is “normal” but he’s also been a fantastic kid. He graduated from Point Loma Nazarene University last year and is now pursuing his MBA there. I’m very excited to see his career develop. I don’t deserve the family that I have! Q: You set a goal to climb all of Colorado’s 14ers, all 50 state highpoints (plus Washington DC) and all Seven Summits. How far along are you? A. I have reached 46 of the 51 state highpoints (I’m including DC). I have Hawaii, Maine, Montana, Texas and Wyoming to go. So far I’ve skied all or part of Colorado, Oregon, New York and Vermont’s highpoints. I have climbed 27 of Colorado’s 14ers. I’m disappointed with this as I consider myself a Coloradan in spite of living in Nebraska for the past 16 years. I grew up there and go there all the time so I have no excuse for being only half-way through this project. I will try to improve on this performance
Everest 2013: Interview with Ronnie Muhl – Climbing From South Africa
This interview with Ronnie Muhl is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers. I try to reach a wide variety of climbers around the world. I welcome suggestions for anyone climbing in 2013 I should interview. Now here’s Ronnie: Most people in South Africa do not dream of climbing Everest one day. But the power of a well written phrase often plants a seed that cannot be ignored. A driven man, click Ronnie Muhl has embraced life and his adventures with a zest that has taken him to Everest three times summiting from the north in 2007 fulfilling a dream he had for 28 years. He was the 7th person from South Africa to summit Everest. And he is back in 2103. Ronnie has taken those climbs as motivation to write a book, speak professionally and start his own adventure company. I was curious about mountaineering in South Africa, Ronnie’s ability to juggle all these jobs and what it was that got him started. Please meet Ronnie Muhl: Q: How widespread is extreme mountaineering in South Africa and how did you get started in the sport? A: Extreme mountaineering is not widespread in South Africa. To date only 26 South Africans have summited Everest, with an additional handful who have summited on 8000 metre peak. Unfortunately, South Africa is not the home of high mountains, with the highest peak being 3450 metres above sea level. As a 15 year old schoolboy, I climbed to within a few metres of the summit of this peak and got caught in a snow blizzard. That experience changed my life forever and while some of my school mates never ever wanted to repeat that experience, I wanted more. I learnt so much about myself at that very vulnerable age and continue to learn about who I am to this day whenever I am on a big. Q: You run a financial planning practice, a speaking and training consultancy and a mountain adventure organization. How do you find the time to train? A: Alan, my life is hectic and if I don’t train first thing in the morning, then things fall apart. Running comes easy and naturally for me and so this is my primary source of exercise. I do a little bit of gym work and some long walks on the weekends, but I rely heavily on my early morning runs. I successfully summited Aconcagua in January this year for the second time, so this has also contributed to my fitness level this season. I leave for Nepal on the 13th of March to lead a commercial trek into Base Camp before our expedition commences, so that should also help with my acclimatization and hopefully my endurance. Q: Ronnie, as the Managing Director of Adventures Global , you lead expeditions. How did this start? A: After I came back from my first attempt on the North side of Everest in 2006, three fellow South Africans who were planning to go to the mountain in 2007, asked me to help them put their expedition together and to be their leader. I had learnt an incredible amount about the mountain in 2006 and to some extent Chomolungma had become demystified for me. I took up the challenge and the business grew from there. Q: In 1979 you read “The Impossible Victory” by Peter Habeler and that inspired you to climb Everest. Was there a specific part of the book that spoke to you? A: There is one particular passage that moved me beyond words. It reads as follows: “Incidentally, one thing that the scientists have not considered, simply because there are no yardsticks by which to measure it, is that at the absolute limit of physical and mental capacity there is, somehow, an increase of strength – a second wind – which seems to emanate from the innermost soul and which enables the impossible to become possible.” This passage really spoke to me. It inspired me in such a profound way, that I knew that I needed to experience what they had experienced. I needed to go into thin air and tap into my innermost soul, so that I could understand what it meant to make the impossible possible. Q: You did not summit on your first attempt in 2006, what happened? A: Throughout the 2006 expedition I felt strong. I had acclimatized extremely well and was among the strongest in our team. When I left Camp 3 (8300m) on the summit push, I started struggling after the first few steps on the fixed lines. I climbed to above the Second Step (8700m) but it was getting late and the weather was beginning to change. I met two Russian climbers just above the Second Step and they had turned around just before the Summit Traverse (8800m). This convinced me to turn around as well. I later discovered that I had a faulty Poisk oxygen mask, which probably accounted for the slow pace on the summit push. Q: What did you change to allow a summit in 2007? A: The first thing I did was a Top Out oxygen system. Secondly, I changed our climbing strategy, where we spent less time acclimatizing above the North Col (7000m) than we had done in 2006. I believe this kept us healthier and stronger than the year before. Q: Your first two climbs were from the North side and then you were the leader of a team on the South side in 2010, but did not summit. What went wrong? A: I picked up a sore throat in Base Camp just before our second rotation, so I missed spending a few nights up on the Lhotse Face (7000m). On the summit push my legs were sore and I really struggled with my breathing. I was climbing with our Sirdar who kept wanting to crank up the O2, but after 3 to 4 hours I decided to turn around for fear of running out of oxygen. Q: