The sun was so bright
The sun was so bright in my tent that I put my sunglasses on before getting out of my sleeping bag. The rumors of a foot of snow proved false this morning. I awoke to the sound of Lama Thame Sherpa chanting his morning prayers. I was back in base camp. We completed a major milestone in climbing Everest – spending a night at camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. It was everything I remembered and more. As I previously posted, look the climb to C3 was slow and purposeful. I arrived feeling better than my four prior climbs in 2002 and 2003. It was very encouraging. Looking back I know realized that the pace then was too fast for me and I pushed too hard. This year’s entire expedition philosophy suits me much better. The crowds were part of the reason for the slow pace. With schedules compressed many teams are rushing to get their night at 23, 500’ in order to push their bodies to be ready for the summit night. Also the face was full of Sherpas making their way to the South Col ferrying food, fuel, stoves, tents and oxygen for our collective summit push. It was like long line of tiny ants moving slowly up the face the 4th highest mountain on earth. The pace was almost like a summit push. Step, one thousand one, one thousand two, step. But everyone made progress. Occasionally a climber or two would step aside and let faster climbers go by. Everyone was friendly and I felt a sense of a collective objective in the crowd. As usual our team arrived in the same order: Ryan, Al, Angus, Scott and I. Ryan always set the pace with Al close behind. At 59, he is rock solid. His limited experience has Ryan keeping him close but this is no commentary on his strength and heart. Angus is also a model of strength. From Canada, like Scott, he is an experience mountaineer. He is showing his skills for his first time on Everest. Scott continues to suffer from a sinus drip that causes a troublesome cough. Nothing too serious but he paces himself to avoid complicating the problem. I like Scott’s pace since I am not in competition with anyone and I find the pace suits me. I guess one the lessons I have learned on all my expeditions is one of control and expectations. My mantra is one step at a time. The night at C3 was as expected: cold, windy and not a lot of sleep. Ryan and I shared a tent with the Al, Angus and Scott in another. Melting snow for water and rehydration was the first order of business. The snow started to fall in earnest around sunset and the temperatures dropped accordingly. But the views were astounding. It is moments like this that I remembered the most from my climbs. As a commentary on the crowds, there are actually three Camp 3s this year. Separated by a hundred vertical feet or so, there was not enough space to carve out tent platforms for all the teams at the traditional spot. But this was not a big problem. We were in the middle level at 23,350’ only 150 feet shy of the highest camp. The tent was pitched on uneven solid hard ice with some sharp edges. So sleeping bag placement was crucial for a decent night’s rest. Once the sun set behind Pumori around 6:00PM we settled into our bags, iPods in hand. Ryan said I had some episodes of periodic breathing which is my body is trying adjust the PH in my blood by expelling more CO2. The subconscious mechanism is to stop breathing and then to gasp for air! What a system!! The end result is that I was waking up every few minutes gasping for air. Not a good start to the night. But I got about seven hours of sleep before waking at 3:00 AM staring at the tent wall or ceiling. Not bad really. The sun rises around 4:30 AM but did not hit our tent until 8:00ish. This made for a long cold dawn. The snow had fallen steadily throughout the night including into our tent via the vents. A light layer of frost and snow covered everything. Ryan started the stoves for the morning melt as everyone began to get dressed. The wind was blowing steadily. Not a gale but hard enough that we knew the down climb would be interesting. Two ropes were fixed for climbing the Face, one for going up and one for going down. But the reality was that few climbers were coming with the winds so strong so it was a free for all with climbers all over the Face and all over the ropes. As I down climbed the first pitch I had an equipment malfunction. Just as I reached the anchor, my left crampon came off my boot. The clip that adjusts to the length of your boot had come loose and my crampon was dangling by the strap on my boot. Normally this was a not a big deal but I was on a 60 degree rock hard ice slope. I made sure I was securely fixed to the line with both a carabineer and my ascender and began the task reattaching the crampon. Just about that time, my old Sherpa friend, Ang Dorge came by and gave me a hand. I found it amazing that he happened by at that time. Our team made swift time down the face fighting both the icy slope and the sharp winds. Most of us rappelled down half the face to save time. I met many climbers back at C2 that had started up the Face but gave up in the harsh conditions. Once at C2 we were met with strong comments of bad weather moving in. A foot of snow every day for the next four days was the rumor. And
Lhotse Face
We are in our tents at 23, s 350′ on the Lhotse Face listening to the snow gently falling. We left camp 2 about 6 AM for our important night at Camp 3. What I found amazing from my last climb here were the crowds. I guess there were over 150 climbers today and as a result it was slow going since we all shared the same fixed rope.. But the good news was that I arrived at C3 feeling the ever and in my fastest time ever. It was hot early then some clouds moved in cooling things off and the snow started just as we crawled into the tents. The Face was just as steep as I remembered, especially the first 300 feet. According to the Sherpas, the ice is particularly hard and it is difficult to carve flat tent platforms. We had a great view of the Geneva Spur and the Yellow Band. We should be climbing those in 10 to 12 days from now. I am pretty excited to be back up here and feeling good but my thoughts did drift today to my Mom given it is Mother’s Day. I was giving a presentation a few days before I left. It was on Alzheimer’s and Everest. A smalll girl sat quietly in her Father’s lap through the hour. I noticed her because she seemed to be paying such close attention for a young girl. when it came time for some questions she raised her tiny hand. “Yes?” I asked as I called on her. “What is your Mother’s name” she asked. “Ida” I answered with a smile. Happy Mother’s Day, Mom. Alan
The Killer Cwm
Today we are comfortably resting at Camp 2. Everyone is in good health and spirits after a breakfast of toast and omlets. The Cwm lived up to it’s reputation yesterday but first a little on the Icefall. We left BC a little before 6 AM and made good time. in spite of our 9 day layoff we felt strong and made steady progress. Then just below the top, there is one cravesse spanned by four ladders lashed together. The problem is that is sways left to right and up and down so most people take extra time. There were 40 climbers waiting to go up or down. It was like a circus with cameras going, helmet cams in action, 2-way radios blasting away in Nepali. Only the dancing bears were missing. After a 40 minute delay we made it across. unfortunately, I think this will be the norm. I am looking out my tent door right now and the Lhotse face has over 100 climbers making extremely slown progress towards Camp 3. Eleven Sherpas from several teams worked the past two days to fix an up and a down line on the Face. Today another 23 are working the lines towards the Yellow Band and the South Col. But back to the Cwm – it was hot, cold, snowy, breezy and hot. We made slow but steady progress and finally arrived quite exhausted.It was good to relax the rest of the day. OK. Tomorrow is our turn on the Lhotse Face. I may send a short dispatch with photo and perhaps an audio dispatch depending on my condition! Everest is back to normal … be careful what you wish for!! Remember Memories are Everything Climb On! Alan
Everest 2008 has had more
Everest 2008 has had more surprises than a Dick Cheney bird hunt. We have had several successful round trips through the Icefall plus several nights at Camp 1 and 2. Now are ready for the key climb to Camp 3 for a night. Then the summit! I am finding the climbing on Everest quite different than on my previous trips. It is difficult to determine how many climbers are at Base Camp. My estimate is that there are more Sherpas and staff than climbers. I counted about 300 individual sleeping tents and would estimate there are 500 climbers including Sherpas. Only a few teams made the shift from the north. I understand there are 41 teams on 31 permits. Some teams are tiny (one climber) and some are ridiculously huge (50 climbers) but most are in the 8 to 15 range. I am glad our team is smaller. We are getting along well and everyone is healthy and ready to get on with the climbing. We have been at or above 17, 500’ for over 30 days at this point and are feeling quite acclimatized to this altitude. We are eating well but most of us have lost 10 lbs – not that bad really. April was quite mild but May has brought the usual late afternoon snows. I am amazed at how melted out the entire area is. There are small streams running through BC which are getting wider and faster by the day. It is more like late May conditions of 2003. With each day the temperature is warmer and the days are longer as we approach summer … and the monsoons. The Icefall is fun. Incredible ice sculptures are all around and some of the large ice blocks are a deep, deep translucent blue indicating century’s old ice. There are only a few tall seracs but we still move quickly as we pass underneath them. The Icefall is easier on the lower sections but a little harder up high. It feels longer this year but our climb times are getting faster with each trip. There are fewer ladders than before and the ones near the top of the Icefall are quite complicated. The longest one is five ladders lashed together and goes straight up. This creates traffic jams and we have had to wait up to 20 minutes to get our shot. On the return trip we mostly rappel the 50 or so feet thus bypassing the crowds down climbing the ladders. More fun! Camp 1’s location is slightly south from previous years due to an avalanche off Everest’s West shoulder two years ago. Large rocks are still on the Western Cwm serving as a stark reminder of what can happen. Our first night at Camp 1 was difficult. The wind gusted to over 50 mph and was blowing the tents all around. At times we could feel the floor of the tent rise up. Al and I got through the night and were ready for the calm of dawn. Speaking of avalanches, the entire area is alive with movement. There is a snow or rock avalanche every few hours around BC and there have been several notable avalanches on the Icefall route. Mostly we feel the air blast and are not in any danger but it makes you pay attention nonetheless. The trip from Camp 1 to Camp 2 was easier than I remembered. The temperatures were moderate and we made it in less than two hours. Camp 2 is still on a rocky section nestled next to the West Shoulder of Everest. The wind sounds like a freight train passing by as it rips through the jagged ridge of the South Summit. It never stops. BC and C2 are mostly on rock than on ice this year. The Khumbu Glacier seems more broken up and is rippled like a bad carpet. Tents are constantly being adjusted since the ice is melting thus exposing sharp rocks which are perfectly positioned to poke us in the back in the middle of the night. Our next climb is to the uncomfortable Camp 3 at 23,500’ on the Lhotse face. This stop will complete our acclimatization process and we will be ready to go for the summit as soon as a weather window materializes. It is interesting that the Sherpas estimate that only half the climbers will do this night at C3. I can understand since it takes a lot out of you to climb to the 7000m camp but the upside it the body creates more red blood cells and is less dependent on supplemental oxygen should a problem develop on the summit bid. Anyway neither is right or wrong just a different approach to climbing Everest. I am in the health I have ever been in on an 8000m climb. Maybe all that training has paid off! I feel strong with no cough or those little annoying health issues. My mind is focused and positive. A look around at Nuptse, The Icefall, Pumori or Everest itself brings me back to reason I am here. While my passion is alpine mountaineering and I am in my element way up here, this is about more than climbing. Once again I will ask for you to consider giving a donation to The Cure Alzheimer’s Fund – that is why I am here. I am very short of my goal and need your help. Everest is the last climb on this journey and there are only a few weeks left. You can always give later but it would be nice to finish with a bang. Remember, Memories are Everything Climb On! Alan
Dispatches will resume in mid-May
The Khumbu Icefall: Gatekeeper for Everest
The Khumbu Icefall – 2, 000 feet of moving ice – serves as the gateway to almost all routes on Everest’s south side. It is incredible to think that the early Swiss and British expeditions made this ascent in leather boots with nails for crampons and trees for ladders. Today we made our entry into the ice fall. The weather has been mixed the last few days with clear mornings, cloudy afternoons and some snow squalls. It has been very noisy at Base Camp with snow and rock avalanches on all sides. I don’t remember this much activity before. It is extremely rare for even the snow blast to reach BC but it is exciting nonetheless. The Khumbu Icefall dominates our view at BC. Everyone looks at it with apprehension and anticipation. It truly is the gateway to Everest. We left at a very reasonable 9:00am intending to go only halfway up. The lower part of the icefall is a gradual incline of maybe 5 to 10 degrees. There are no ladders for almost 700’. But the route undulates like a wild dragon and you begin to feel the altitude since this is the first time above Base Camp. Everyone did well and soon we were at our first ladder. I am pleased that the icefall seems slightly safer this year with fewer large seracs towering over the route and also fewer large crevasses – at least up to the area called the popcorn. Everyone enjoyed taking pictures of their feet on a ladder and making their first crossings. As the clouds moved in we reed to BC for a well deserved lunch. I uploaded a video of me crossing one of the ladders. You can find it under expeditions videos on the right side of the main dispatch page. I hope it gives you a feel for crossing the ladders without upsetting your stomach! Another rest day tomorrow. Remember: Memories are Everything Climb On! Alan
Pujas: A Mystery
The Lama said Thursday the 10th between 7:00 and 10:00 AM is for the Puja. OK – who would argue with that? After a much better night, I dressed in my down pants and jacket – it was 14 degrees inside my tent at 6:45 AM. The Lama was prompt as everyone skulked over to the rock alter. Thin pads did little to mask the rocks and cold of the morning as we took our place in rows behind the Lama and two Sherpas. Our climbing tools leaned against the alter. The Lama began his slow chant. His partners provided backup. Soon a rhythm developed as the sun rose over one of Everest’s neighbors. The bright warmth felt good. The Lama smiled as another Sherpa filled his tin cup with steaming milk tea. He never missed a beat. Everyone sat quietly, lost in their own thoughts or still half asleep. The Sherpas sorted the prayer flags and chatted energetically amongst themselves. The Lama chanted – even he looked cold. With a flury, the flag pole was raised from the top of the rock alter. Prayer flags strung across our camp. Not sure of the meaning, a light bulb was lit on the top of the pole. Power came from the generator. I think this was Sherpa one-upmanship. The Lama completed his duties and soon a party began: chang, rum, beer. And a form of Sherpa dancing that reminded me of the Cotton Eyed Joe. I don’t understand a lot. I don’t really understand Pujas. I don’t really understand Sherpas. But I do underrstand that I trust them with my life. Remember: Memories are Everything Climb On! Alan
Welcome To Base Camp
OK, try left side is . No, on my back. Right side – yes, that is it. Ugg, the crocodile roll begins. The last night in a tea house was supposed to be comfortable – a quasi mattress, walls, a roof. But three hours of sleep was the I could muster. Dawn came none too early. The walk to BC would only take two hours. I settled into a comfortable pace – music keeping me company – and mastered the technique of avoiding rocks and enjoying the view. Ding, ding, ding. The yak bells rang. The summit of Everest played hide and with lesser mountains but still brought a thin smile to my face each time. The winds were strong up there yesterday and a plume was visible. “What is that smell?” I asked myself as I passed a young Porter. He was carrying kerosene. Soon a table passed me followed by a full set of chairs. As I turned a corner, I was met with two eyes, two horns and a forehead as large as a small car. We made eye contact. Right? Left? He seemed to want me to make the first move. His friends waited ly behind. I moved left – uphill – and they slowly filed passed. Ding, ding, ding. Up and down, the narrow well trod dirt trail followed the contour of the land. The air became much colder as it neared the Khumbu Glacier. What stories the ice could tell. But all it says is “crack” as it moves down valley. A yak train leaving Base Camp meets another going to Base Camp. The Sherpani women take charge. “Whaaa” one shouts out. She pokes the slow one with a stick. Another gets a small rock thrown at him. They just look at her. Ding, ding, ding. Women run the Khumbu. Yaks run the trails. There it is – Base Camp. Laphka Norbu and Lama Babu, two of our Sherpas meet us with hot tea at camp’s edge. I like climbing in the Himalayas. Entering BC brings back a flood of memories. Sherpas are busy building a helicopter pad away from the main camp. There have been two crashes in the last few years. Tents of all sizes line the “main street”. Some Sherpas have been here for weeks building tent platforms, rock walls for cooking tents and alters for Pujas. It is a not so small city at 17,500′. There is electricity in the air. I pass by a pile of ladders that will be used in the Icefall. It will be ready by Friday. We will go up Saturday. Sherpas pass by and chat with one another like race horses at the starting gate. The meandering rocky trail takes us to the furthermost point of the camp. This is good: close to the base of the Icefall and close to clean water. But it is still boiled before using. We enter camp greeted by the cooks, cook boys and other Sherpas. They are ready to go. My tent is perched on a small ridge with a clear view of the Icefall and the rest of BC. I am surrounded by other yellow tents. Dining, cooking, storage, communications, shower, toilet – tents are everywhere. I stand by my tent. I drop my pack. My two duffels by my feet. I look at the Icefall. I can feel the route. I close my eyes. Sounds fill my head. Welcome to Base Camp. Remember: Memories are Everything Climb On! Alan P.S. Pictures have been added to the dispatch A Father’s Memory
Everest Audio Dispatch: from the Summit of Kala Patar
Alan describes the views of Everest from the summit of Kala Patar and his feelings about the upcoming climb. To hear this Everest audio dispatch, just click on the link. Thanks for listening and following Alan on The Road Back to Mt. Everest: Memories are Everything. This is about more than just climbing mountains…. Everest 2008 – The view from Kala Patar Climb On! Alan
A Father's Memory
The email read in part “can you see if his memorial is still there?” The trek to Base Camp takes you through 30 or more stone memorials built to honor climbers who have died on Everest. This email was from the 80 year-old Father of such a climber. The clouds moved out overnight and we were greeted with stunning views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse and more. The trek to the next village was only a few hours but it was the Father’s request that was on my mind. As I made the hill crest, a row of monuments came into view. I took off my pack and started my search. Many of the monuments had new bronze name plates. Most had worn away after years of wind and rain. Some were famous – Scott Fischer, Babu Chiri. Most were not familiar. Names long since forgotten by the climbing community. Names remembered daily by their families. I stopped at each one. How did they die? Weather, health, accident? It did not matter. There were climbers from many countries: Belirous, Japan, Austria, Canada, Nepal. Most were Sherpa. Most were young. Climbers following their passion. Chasing their dream. Doing a job. It did not matter. The setting was perfect – above the treeline – on the alpine tundra – views of mountains. They would have liked it. I’m sorry Sir. I never found Greg’s memorial. But I am sure his memory lives on. Remember: Memories are Everything Climb On! Alan