Tag: Everest 2008 Coverage

Snow in the Trees

Somehow snow in the trees make for a nice start to the day. We woke up Friday morning to a gentle snowfall. The trees were loaded and the ground was white. But the yak trains had already marked the trails as we left our teahouse for the next village. We continue to move up valley. Everyone is in good health and we are right on schedule. The clouds have covered our views of Everest and Ama Dablam but that makes for a cooler trek. The trail is crowded and sometimes a traffic jam occurs with porters, ask yaks and climbers all sharing the same narrow dirt path. Yesterday we visited Lama Geshi for a Puja at his home. This was the fourth time I have visited him. He looks a little older but he still has that gentle nature about him. There are many teams moving up valley at the same time so it was crowded in his home. We all went into a room together and sat on blanket covered benches. Lama Geshi’s daughter translates for him. The room is cold nad Lama Gashi wears a down jacket over his crimson robe. The ceremony is very detailed. First he takes a thin yellow or red string and places it around our neck. Then we give the silk scarf to his daughter with an offering in it. He says a brief prayer and the scarf is placed back around our neck. We move to the bench and sit quietly while he does the same ceremony with all the other climbers. The Lama then begins to chant prayers for our safety and permission to climb the mountain while tossing rice into the air and occasionally ringing a small bell. The entire ceremony last about 20 minutes. Today he must have blessed over 100 climbers and Sherpa. I am always touched by this ceremony. In the quiet moments, I reflect on why I am here and what this means to me. This climb is special as all of you know. There are many distractions this year but I remain optimistic and focused. As we continued up valley the clouds played hide and with the sun but soon the clouds won and the snow started to fall while we reached our high point thus far of just over 14,8217;. We will continue towards Base Camp after an acclimatization day. I want to send a shout out to all the students at Ms. Allen’s class at Eastern High School, Mr. Garcia at Bolz Jr. High and Mr. Schauer at Weber Jr. High. Thanks to all of you for your continued support on the Alzheimer’s fund raising and for sending your positive thoughts to me. I hope to speak live with you soon. You are the !! Remember Memories are Everything Climb On! Alan

Pens and Crayons

Her dark black hair was pulled back in a pony tail yet a few strand fell across her forehead as she looked up. Her four-year old eyes were as black as her hair and so large I could almost see my own reflection in them. I held out the crayons and she took them in her tiny hand. Soon her big brother and a few other children came to see what she was getting. The oldest was wearing a uniform of sorts and I asked if he was gong to school. He nodded his head and then said “fish” as he looked at the Crayola crayon box. There was small fish on the box. I gave him four packages of pens and he smiled knowingly at the usefulness of the present. My pace picked up as I walked away. They have so little and yet are so happy. The trek from Lukla to Namche is always a highlight of any visit to Nepal. We flew on April Fools day from Kathmandu to Lukla. Rising at 4:00AM, the rolling power blackout was over for the moment so we had lights as we hauled our heavy duffel bags to the hotel lobby. After a quick breakfast and goodbyes to the inn keepers at the Hotel Courtyard, we loaded in the small bus for the short drive to the airport. But even at 5:30AM, the streets were bustling with shopkeepers pulling up their sheet metal awnings thus declaring their shop open for business. I bought a couple of bottles of water and we were on our way. The pilots navigated the low clouds easily during the 30 minute flight. Soon we were on a sharp glide slope for the aircraft carrier length runway at 9000′. Hundreds of porters stood by the fence hoping for the chance to haul 150lbs of gear on their backs the 10 miles to Namche. All for $20. On the trail, my thoughts went back to the times I had walked this route and the wonderful memories. I was curious how it had changed in the five years since I was last here. Trekkers and climbers and porters and Sherpa filled the trail along with local kids going to school. It was quite crowded at times. Of course the Zos with the packs, drums and bags on their backs always got the right of way – especially on the long swinging bridges. The flowers were in full bloom as spring was starting in this Himalayan Kingdom. Everyone seemed to have a smile on their face and cooperated easily through the bottlenecks. We stopped several times at tea houses for a snack or lunch. The service was slow but came with a smile. The first night was spent at the Sunrise Lodge in Phaddang. I was pleasantly surprised that our double room had a bath, toilet and shower. Times had changed! The Teahouse was full of other teams. Everyone was quite relaxed and excited about moving up valley. I was so glad to see an old friend, Ang Dorge Sherpa who I was with on my previous two Everest climbs. He now lives in Washington State and is married with two children. Yes, times had changed. We left for Namche the next morning and took our time. Swinging bridges, fresh flowers, blooming trees, the rushing turquoise waters of the Dodi Koshi River. All kept us company as we made our way into the Sagamartha National Park – the home of Mt. Everest. The climb up the infamous Namche Hill was easier than I remembered. Good thing I guess. But it was still hot and we were glad it over as we approached the capital of the SoloKhumbu region – Namche. It was larger than I remembered. New buildings had been built in this natural amphitheater. But some things were the same. The men chiseling stone blocks out of large rocks. Women washing clothes in the streams. And the ever-present yaks and zos wandering the streets. But now shops advertised wifi hotspots and climbing gear – real not fake – at US prices. There is even an ATM! But the streets were still lined with tables filled with Buddha’s, shawls, jewelry and other souvenirs for the tourists. And of course the coffee houses and bakeries did a swift business. Yes, much has changed but much is the same. We are taking an acclimatization day here today and will leave Friday for Debouche near the Thyangboche Monastery. Thanks to Chuck Norman and his son for the pens and crayons. Remember Memories are Everything Climb On! Alan

Dreaming of Ladders – Return to the South

I will be returning to climb Mt. Everest in 2008! Barring any more surprises we will be on the South Col route, the same one I was on in 2002 and 2003. I am extremely grateful that our expedition leaders moved swiftly when the Chinese announced restrictions on the north side and secured permits and logistics support on the south as a backup for our team. Also, our entire team including our Nepali Sherpas have agreed to make the switch thus we will be climbing together. I have mixed feelings but am very excited that our climb will still take place and I will have the opportunity to use my climb to further raise awareness and money for Alzheimer’s research. I am still switching my mindset from visualizing climbing the 2nd Step to climbing the Hillary Step! But more to the point is the turmoil that is happening in Tibet right now and the impact on all involved. I understand that several major expeditions have canceled their north side climbs and will reschedule for 2009 thus not moving to the south. This will relieve some of the anticipated crowding that could have happened if everyone had gone south. There continues to be mixed messages. Even today there are various reports that there are not now and never have been any restrictions for south side climbers. Nepal is in the midst of a change of government so some confusion is not unexpected. However, I have grown to respect and trust the Nepalese and will leave for Nepal with that trust in tact. The acclimatization schedule will be similar to my previous south climbs even with any limited restrictions. Remember that the jet stream does not usually move away from Everest until the second half of May and the average summit date in recent years has been on or after May 15th. This is a hard goal I have set for myself between the fund raising and the mountain climbing. The recent events have added to the degree of difficulty. But this is not impossible, it may just be very, very hard. I would encourage everyone out there with a dream, a vision or a goal not to give up when times get tough. I will post more as new information becomes available but for now, I need to go pack! Climb On! Alan

Nepal to Limit South Side Climbers from May 1-10

On Friday, March 14, Nepal’s Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation announced that all climbers on Everest’s Nepal side will not be allowed to climb above Base Camp at 17,500′ from May 1 through May 10. It is not clear if climbers will be allowed to go above BC prior to May 1. While there was no mention of the limitations being related to the Chinese’s more stringent limitations on the North, the connection is obvious. This now makes a complicated situation even more complex. North side teams, including ours, have been investigating alternatives given the Chinese March 10th decision to refuse entry to all expeditions on Everest until May 10th – presumably after they carry the Olympic torch to the summit, weather permitting. This morning there are reports from the BBC and others of severe violence in Lhasa including fires, protests and strong police and army presence. The Sera Monastery is reported to be surrounded by 2,000 policemen to keep the several hundred Monks from leaving. I visited the Monastery last year on our Shisha Pangma climb. I found it to be a very active place full of life and excitement. Each Wednesday, they debate one another on Buddhists teachings in a tree-filled courtyard. I have a video of it on the side bar. The public can catch the debates – it was quite entertaining. One of the multiple impacts on these political decisions are on the Sherpa and Tibetan people. They depend on tourism and mountaineering for a significant portion of their income each year. This income feeds their families, funds their children’s education and is re-invested into their regions for teahouses, shops and restaurants. It is vital for their growth. While myself and other climbers are anxious about our opportunity to climb Mt. Everest, the Tibetans and Sherpas are fearful for their future. A sense of perspective is important at times like this. I remain optimistic that a compromise will be reached on both climbing routes that will allow the Chinese to accomplish their goal, the Tibetans and Sherpas to have work and for climbers to climb. Climb On! Alan

3 Weeks to Everest 2008!!

Three weeks, six hours, four minutes and … well you get the idea! I can’t believe that after a year of planning, training and dreaming it is almost time to leave for Kathmandu. After 17 or more expeditions, I have everything I need so there will be only a few last minute s. I will send another dispatch before I leave introducing my teammates. I am continuing my training and will up to the weekend before I leave and have to pack all my bags. My friends Patrick and Robert have been great partners especially in the hurricane force winds with driving snow!! Thanks Guys. Most of my time right now is spent giving presentations on my previous Everest climbs and raising awareness and funds for the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund. I just completed a four stop tour in California and will do five next week in Colorado. The one was to 200 2nd though 5th graders. Their energy was contagious! I had a huge smile on my face the entire presentation. The question was from a young girl: “How do you know when you reach the top?” At the end of my presentation, which could have gone on for hours with all the questions, the student council presented me a check for the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund. They had raised money through a bake . They made my day! My sincere thanks to my friends Bryan Mekechuk and Jo-Anne Sinclair and to Katie Cutler with Cure Alzheimer’s Fund for their tireless help with the events. The last few weeks before a big expedition are a time of contradictions. I cherish each moment at home, sleeping in a warm bed with clean sheets – on a real mattress. I look at “my” Colorado mountains with appreciation. Time with my friends take on new meanings. And each brush of their tail on my leg creates a lifelong memory of my precious kitties. A serious tone often takes over my mind and my eyes focus on nothing. My mind goes to high up on the Hill as I walk through the routine. I can almost feel the chill against my cheek, the numbness in my fingers, the glare of the sun in my eyes. But a soft “meow” brings me back. I am still home. I am often asked how I feel at this point – excited, anxious, afraid? Any second thoughts? As you would expect – all the above except for the second thoughts. This is my climb. I know myself and how I do in the mountains. I have put the work in to be ready for this. The four “training” climbs gave me what I wanted – more experience and more confidence. But this is more than just another climb. I spoke to my Mom this morning. She was doing well. I told her only three weeks to go before I left. She didn’t remember that I was going back to Everest. She didn’t remember that I had gone twice before. Then she asked me again “Now, where do you live?” Remember: Memories are everything Climb On! Alan