Everest 2012: North Side Deaths Bring Total to 11- Updated to 10

New deaths have been reported today on the North side bringing the season total to 11 deaths.  Also I can confirm the death of a Czech climber, doctor  Milan Sedlacek, He led the first Czech to the summit of Mount Everest. Cause of death is thought to be altitude related or exhaustion. North Deaths Updated […]

Everest 2012: Positioning for the Last Wave

The last wave of climbers are positioned at Camp 2 on the South and ABC on the North. The last weather window of the 2012 spring season is taking shape with May 25/26th being the sweet spot.  Weather I spoke with Everest weather expert, prescription Michael Fagin who said the monsoons were forming off India: […]

Everest 2012: The Significance of Everest

An 18 year old summits Everest fulfilling a dream and then experiences the trauma of passing newly perished bodies on the descent. A 70 year old, turns back from the summit choosing family over a summit as the relentless winds force an obvious but still difficult choice. Summit or not, young or old; Everest remains […]

Everest 2012: Weekend Update May 20 – Summits! – Death Update 3

Update 3: Season summary – 8 Confirmed deaths, 1 Missing: 40 year-old Karsang Namgyal Sherpa climbing with Prestige Adventures related to alcohol at base camp; Peak Freaks’ Namgyal Tshering Sherpa fell from a ladder into a crevasse near C1; Dawa Tenzing with Himex from stroke and died in Kathmandu; 33 year-old Indian, Ramesh Gulve, climbing […]

Everest 2012: Wave 3 – Update 3 – Summits

May 19/20 on Everest has been difficult one with high winds, medical and canceled or aborted summit attempts. But we also have summits. Now we hold our breath as they descend in difficult conditions.  Update 3 – Summits There are reports of small independent teams summiting around 6:00AM Nepal time but only spending a few […]

Everest 2012: Wave 2 Recap

There were many summits on May 19 as expected. The winds seemed low in the morning but picked up as the day progressed. There were reports of delays at the Hilary Step and over on the North due to crowds. I have updated the location table based on information available and estimated some in the […]

Everest 2012: Summit Wave 2 – Update 1

Update 1 For those climbers starting very early and climbing fast, search the weather has been good. Case in point is Adventure Consultant’s Ang Dorge Sherpa who made the summit (his 16th) in 7:20 with Spaniard Joan Clofent. This is significant in that it indicated the route was in good shape, the weather acceptable and […]

Everest 2012: 1st Summits, More on the Way

Everest 2012 continues to surprise and meet expectations of many climbers. We have the first summits of 2012 on the South. The ropes are now fixed to the summit on the South and North side as the weather window holds. First 2012 Non-Sherpa Summit – Paraveneh Kazemi – Updated Feb, find 2013 Iranian female climber, […]

Everest 2012: Summit Wave 1 Underway

As expected some teams and climbers have jumped the rope team and are on their way to the summit. 1st Summit Push, view No ropes First the Chilean team left about 11 Pm on Thursday May 17 hoping to reach the summit in the early morning hours of May 18th. The entire team of 11 […]

Everest 2012: Ropes Near the Summit

Update 1 Chilean team left South Col near Midnight May 17th to summit without fixed ropes. Would be first 2012 summits Update 2 Also Ueli Steck is on his way. He is climbing without supplemental oxygen. Best news of the season, no winds on Thursday May 17 allowing the rope fixers to set lines high […]