Everest 2012: Timing is Everything
As we get closer to the predicted weather window, plans are taking shape, and some don’t like it. West Ridge Canceled As expected Conrad Anker has pulled the plug on the National Geographic sponsored climb of the West Ridge due to dangerous conditions. He will now join their South Col team. No word on the […]
Everest 2012: Preparing for the Push
The push is on with multiple teams reporting their initial moves to Camp 1 or 2 on the South or ABC on the North. All are looking at a weekend summit – weather depending. This is the first of at least two expected summit windows with the second around May 25; but this could quickly […]
Everest 2012: “MAY 14th – It’s time…”
The headline tells it all “MAY 14th – It’s time…”. Grant Rawlinson climbing on the north with Altitude Junkies posted today that he was moving to the high camps looking to attempt his Everest summit later this week. North Schedule Project Himalaya climber Tom Kowpak provided a clear description of the north side situation and targeting […]
Everest 2012: Weekend Update May 13
The second week of May 2012 will be recorded in Everest history as when a commercial expedition approaching 100 people told their climbers to get off the mountain, we are going home. With disbelief, salve the other teams quickly learned that Everest legend Russell Brice’s canceled his entire spring expeditions on Everest, healing Lhotse and […]
Everest 2012: Dealing with the Crowds
Multiple reports this morning say the jetstream has returned with a vengeance on Everest shutting down the carries and rope fixing. This was expected and teams on both sides have made remarkable progress over the past week as the new snow made conditions safer and faster. The South Col is stocked for many teams and […]
Everest 2012: Doldrums
If we were talking about sailing this would be called the doldrums, there that time when there are no winds and the boat is basically adrift with the current. Our Everest climbers on both side are adrift at their camps passing each day just like the previous and the next waiting for those winds to […]
Everest 2012: Sherpa Train
Everest teams are spread all over the Khumbu and southern Tibet at the moment. A few are still at the high camps but most are holding at base camps or down in the villages enjoying the richer air. There are 10 Sherpas from multiple teams working together to fix the rope to the summit on […]
Everest 2012: “Things seemed to have calmed down on Mount Everest”
Let’s start with some encouraging news from Dave Hahn and Eric Simonson on the south side. There has been quite a bit of fresh snow over the past few days – so much so that it stopped some from climbing – go figure! South Plans Dave Hahn, climbing for RMI/Eddie Bauer/First Ascent made this post […]
Everest 2012: A Summit Schedule?
As the dust settles from the Himex departure, all the other teams are working hard to complete their acclimatization programs, stock camps and plan for the summit. A Nod to History The new route up the Lhotse Face follows the track established in 1953, Eric Simonson of IMG reminded us today. But more importantly the […]
Everest 2012: Climbers Sleeping at C3 on Lhotse Face
In spite of the surprising news coming from Everest, prescription climbers continue their march towards the top. There are reports of the fixed line now to Camp 4 on the South. Lhotse Ice While the wind and rock fall have dominated the news on climbing the Lhotse Face, no one aspect has been under the […]