Everest 2022: Team Locations and Headlines
Welcome to the 2022 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013, and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information.
Everest 2021: Team Locations and Headlines
Welcome to the 2021 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information.
Everest 2020: Team Locations and Headlines
Follow Virtual Everest 2020 – Support the Climbing Sherpas starting April 2, 2020 LATEST HEADLINE 2020 Season Cancelled due to Coronavirus Welcome to the 2020 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information. Click for the complete Everest 2020 coverage 2020 Season Cancelled due to Coronavirus 2019 Stats Read Alan’s complete Everest 2019 Season Summary Nepal closes Everest due to Coronavirus China closes the Tibet side of Everest due to Coronavirus The Everest 2019 season is over with a member summit rate of 73% on the Nepal side My preliminary stats show: Nepal: 292 members, 368 support for 660 total Tibet: 106 members, 110 support for 216 total Deaths: 11 COUNTRY Nepal: 9 Tibet: 2 OPERATORS “Low-cost” Operators: 8 “High-End” Operators: 3 REASON Crowd Related: 3 Fall: 1 Health: 3 Altitude Related: 8 Connect and Support Click to sign up or cancel email notification of new posts I do coverage for one reason only, raising awareness and funds to slow, stop or prevent Alzheimer’s Disease. If you visit often and appreciate this site, please consider a donation to an Alzheimer’s nonprofit. 100% goes to them, nothing ever to me. Click this link to understand my personal journey with AD that took Ida Arnette in 2009. South Col Route (map) locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower 2019 Stats – Will be Updated for 2020 Everest only TEAMS (362 members/16 western guides) EBC C1 C2 C3 C4 S.Col Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) Fixed Line Progress Adventure Consultants: 7/4 64% member summit Alpine Ascents Int.: 11/2 – 84% member summit Asian Trekking (27) CTSS – Mike Hamill: 29/5 – 79% member summit Himex: 5/2 – 80% member summit IMG: 22/0 – 63% member summit Imagine Nepal (10/0) 80% member summit Jagged Globe : 9/1 85% member summit Madison Mountaineering 15/3-73% member smt Satori Adventures 13/0 – 69% member summit Summit Climb 6/1 – 100% member summit Seven Summits Treks International: 15/0 66% Seven Summits Treks: Indian Army: 13/0 84% Seven Summits Treks (15/0) Chinese Transcend Adventures :6/1-50% member summit others (est) SOUTH TOTAL (est) Northeast Ridge Route (map) locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower TEAMS CBC ABC C1 N.Col C2 C3 Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) Fixed Line Progress 360 Expeditions Adventure Int’l Alpenglow Adventure Peaks 7 Summits Treks/Arnold Coster Climbalaya/Satori Adventures Furtenbach Adventures Kobler & Partner Summit Climb Transcend Adventures 7 Summits Club others (est) NORTH TOTAL (est) LEGEND T/D=Trek/Driving to BC, K=Kathmandu, La=Lhasa, Lo=Lobuche, e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public websites. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage. Other Teams Not providing enough updates to track or comment TEAMS (91 members/0 western guides) Alpine Sherpa Guide: 1 member, 1 Sherpa Himalaya Expeditions (7-S, 16-N): NSG Indian Army: 7 members, 7 Sherpas Ascent Himalayas: 7 members, 7 Sherpas 53% member summit Dreamers Destination :5/8 100% member summit Everest Quest 7 members 7 Sherpas 77% member summits Happy Feet 4 members, 4 Sherpas Himalayan Guides Himalayan Experience: 4 members 3 Sherpas 57% member summits Himalaya Expedition Himalaya Expedition – Indian Army (12-S/0) Himalayan Traverse (3/0) Kaitu Expedition 12 members, 16 Sherpas – 100% member summit Myrmidon Expeditions (9-S) 0 members/0 Sherpas Glacier Himalaya (4-S) Pioneer Adventure 1 member, 2 Sherpa12/22 – 80% member summit Rolwaling (4/0) Summit Nepal Treks (7-S) I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and now 2020 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. If you will forgive the self-promotion Outside Magazine posted an extensive interview with me and called me “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest” I do this coverage for one reason only, raising awareness and funds to find a way to slow, stop or prevent Alzheimer’s Disease. If you visit often and appreciate this site, please consider a donation to an Alzheimer’s nonprofit. 100% goes to them, nothing ever to me. Click this link to understand my personal journey with AD that took Ida Arnette in 2009. Everest Weather Base Camp Summit not intended to replace professional forecasts or for critical decisions Reader Polls [poll id=”-2″]
Everest 2019: Team Locations and Headlines
LATEST HEADLINE May 31: Season Over 11 Everest Deaths, 900 estimated total summits Welcome to the 2019 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information. Click for the complete Everest 2019 coverage Current Headlines Read Alan’s complete Everest 2019 Season Summary The Everest 2019 season is over with a member summit rate of 73% on the Nepal side My preliminary stats show: Nepal: 281 members, 378 support for 659 total Tibet: 120 members, 121 support for 241 total Deaths: 11 COUNTRY Nepal: 9 Tibet: 2 OPERATORS “Low-cost” Operators: 8 “High-End” Operators: 3 REASON Crowd Related: 3 Fall: 1 Health: 3 Altitude Related: 8 Previous Headlines May 27 summits by Climbing the Seven Summits on Nepal side with no one else around. Alpenglow member summits Everest- Tibet 10 days from home Muhammad Ali Sadpara summited Lhotse 16 May 2016 Disappointment on there Tibet side that the rope fixers didn’t take advantage of good weather on 15 May EverestER on the Nepal side “After 35 operational days we have just passed 500 patient consultations! With summit week upon us, we expect this number to continue to shoot up. We are seeing much more frostbite and altitude related conditions.” Over 25 Makalu summit to date Over 30 on Kangchenjunga Chinese rope team back to 8300m on Tibet side Tanzania plans cable car for Mount Kilimanjaro – no joke. source Some Nepal climbers are back in KTM for R&R 100 tents reported blown away at C2 on Nepal Side Nepal has issued a record 379 climbing permits to foreigners as of 15 May April, 92 for Lhotse Lots of frustration with EverestLink this year Top countries on Nepal side of Everest: India (75), US (74), China (60), UK (43), Nepal – members, not working (13) Madison Mountaineering and team are coordinating getting loads to C2 with the rope to fix the route to the summit. April 18: Honoring the Sherpas who died in 2014. It looks like there are 364 total people on the Tibet side made up of 144 foreigners, 12 Chinese and 208 Nepalese Sherpa. An additional 73 are reported to be visiting or working at base camp. source A Summit Air airplane veered of the runway in Lukla hitting a helicopter. Three people have died – a pilot and two police officers My early estimate shows over 350 members with 340 Sherpas on Nepal side and 185 members with 150 Sherpas on the Tibet side for total of 500 members/590 Sherpas. Expect these numbers to grow by 25% when the climbing begins in mid April. 2018 was record year with 396 members/406 support, totaling 802 summits by all climbers, all routes. February 27, 2019, an Air Dynasty helicopter carrying Tourism Minister Rabindra Adhikari and six other people crashed killing all onboard while flying in a snowstorm. Deaths/Missing – 21 Total – 11 on Everest Climbing The Seven Summits, Everest, May 27: American, Christopher Jon Kulish, 61, died near South Col after summiting Summit Climb, Everest, May 25: British Robin Haynes Fisher, 44, died on descent after summiting Himalayan Ski Treks, Everest, May 24: Nepali Dhruba Bista, 32, died a EBC after evacuation from C3 Seven Summits Treks, Makalu, May 24: Sherpa Nima Tshering Sherpa, died after summiting at C2 360 Expeditions, Everest, May 24: Irish Kevin Hynes, 56, Irish died at North Col after turning back at 8300m. He had previously summited Everest South and Lhotse. Peak Promotion, Everest, May 23: Indian Nihal Bagwan, 25, : Indian, near the South Col Kobler & Partner, Everest, May 23:Ing ‘ Ernst’ Landgraf, 65, died on the 2nd Step after summiting Dreamers Destination Treks, Everest, May 23: Indian Kalpana Dash, 52, Odisha, India died after summit on descent near Balcony Guided by India’s Transcend with logistics from Arun Treks, Everest, May 22: Indian Anjali S Kulkarni, 54 ,from Mumbai, India died after summit on descent near C4 Pioneer Adventures, Everest, May 22: American Don Cash, 54, dead near Hillary Step Seven Summit Treks, Everest, May 17: Indian Ravi Thakar, dead near C4 after summit Seven Summit Treks, Everest, May 16: Irish Seamus Sean Lawless, 39, missing, presumed dead after slipping near the South Col Seven Summit Treks, Makalu, May 16: India Dipankar Ghos, 53, missing after summit Seven Summits Treks, Annapurna, May 3: Malaysian Wui Kin Chin, 48, cause of death unknown. exposed for 3 days at 8400m after summit Seven Summits Trek, Makalu, May 16:Indian Narayan Singh, 35, died of altitude illness at 8200m Independent, Makalu, May 8: Peruvian Richard Hidalgo, 52, died in tent at 6,300m, climbing with no Os. Peak Promotion, Kangchenjunga, May 15,:Indian Biplab Baidya, 48, altitude sickness Peak Promotion, Kangchenjunga, May 15: Indian Kuntal Karar, 46, altitude sickness Peak Promotion, Kangchenjunga, May 15: Chilean Rodrigo Vivanco missing, presumed dead Makalu Xtreme, Lhotse, May 17: Bulgarian Ivan Yuriev Tomov, 35, died after no Os’/support summit Summit Climb, Cho Oyu, April 29: Phujung Bhote Sherpa fell into a crevasse while fixing rope near Camp 2 Connect and Support Click to sign up or cancel email notification of new posts I do coverage for one reason only, raising awareness and funds to slow, stop or prevent Alzheimer’s Disease. If you visit often and appreciate this site, please consider a donation to an Alzheimer’s nonprofit. 100% goes to them, nothing ever to me. Click this link to understand my personal journey with AD that took Ida Arnette in 2009. South Col Route (map) locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower Everest only TEAMS (362 members/16 western guides) EBC C1 C2 C3 C4 S.Col Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) Fixed Line Progress X Adventure Consultants: 7/4 64% member summit e 9/12 Alpine Ascents Int.: 11/2 – 84% member summit e 11/11 Asian Trekking (27) e 7/12 Benegas Brothers: 5/2 – 80% member summit e 4/4 CTSS – Mike Hamill: 29/5 – 79% member summit e 23/35 Himex: 5/2 –
Everest 2018: May 25 Team Locations and Headlines
UPDATED: May 25, 2018 This is Alan Arnette’s Everest 2018 coverage and annual coverage and based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits. HEADLINE: Season is Over 800+ Summits, 5 Deaths See all the Everest 2018 posts here Latest News: 25 May 2018 (Everest time: GMT+5:45) Current Headlines With an unprecedented weather window, the Everest season is winding down I estimate a total of over 800 summits smashing the previous record set in 2013 of 667 from both sides by members and support climbers. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism reported on 16 August 2018 that a total of 563 people summited during the spring of 2018 made up of 302 High Altitude Workers (aka Sherpas) and 261 foreigners (aka members) using the standard Southeast Ridge route in Nepal. I estimate 239 summits on the Northeast Ridge in Tibet. Nepal issued 347 Everest climbing permits to foreigners, including 20 Nepalis, making the overall summit rate of 75% for members on the South side. There were 52 female summits on the Nepal side in 2018. The Nepal Government collected USD$5,172,408 in permit fees. They noted that the summiteers included 51 Indians, 49 Americans and 47 Chinese. Previous Major Headlines Hillary Step has changed and not just covered with snow. Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki died descending from C3 in the night after radioing for help to his video crew at C2. Details Franz P. Rassel became the first Paraguayan to summit Everest. Gjeorgi Petkov, 63, Macedonia died from heart attack was with Tim Mosedale on Nepal side Damai Sarki Sherpa died after falling into crevasse near C2, Nepal side, with Himalayan Ascent and Seven Summit Treks Details Pasang Norbu Sherpa (41) died at 28,051’/8550m working for 7 Summits Club summit push from Tibet Details. Alpenglow got all their Cho Our/Everest team on Everest summit with no issues Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas had to slow down and stop because they were climbing too fast otherwise they wold miss the sunrise!!!! Summit Oxygen problems reported by Nepal side teams in addition to North teams. Carlos Soria Fontán has reportedly abandoned Dhaulagiri citing high winds. Russian climber Rustem Amirov died from AMS after nearly summiting Lhotse Rupert Jones-Warner summited from Nepal now moves to Tibet. Sherpa dies on Nepal side, Lam Babu Sherpa from Kurima solukhambu from Seven Summits Treks with Ukraine team. Details Alpenglow team turns back after failure of Summit Oxygen regulators – all safe details Kami Rita Sherpa summited for a record 22nd time with a Seven Summit Treks team Lhakpa Sherpa 9th summit from North Side. New World Record for women! Breaking her own record. Sherpa, Lam Babu Sherpa reported missing above the South Col since 14 May 51 of the 76 Liaison officers are actually at Everest Base Camp – Nepal – better than most years. source Ropes fixed to summit on Tibet side Mingma G Sherpa along with Chinese double amputee Mr Xia Boyu summited Steve Plain set the time record for climbing the 7 Summits at 117 days. Rope fixing team made the summit from the Nepal side at 3:30 pm, on 13 May 2018. Annapurna summit on 13 May Manaslu expeditions cancels effort due to avalanche conditions 2nd heli search and search team at his C2/C3 tents buy no signs of Shishapangma climber Bulgarian Boyan Petrov Cho Oyu summits! Team turns back 200m from Nuptse summit seeing poor snow conditions Makalu Summit Death on Dhaulagiri Two Sherpas were hurt when a serac collapsed towards the top of the Khumbu Icefall. 180 foreign permits issued for Tibet side 346 for Everest including 20 Nepalis from the Nepal side 2018 Everest Deaths – 5 Damai Sarki Sherpa died after falling into crevasse near C2, Nepal side, with Himalayan Ascent and Seven Summit Treks Details Pasang Norbu Sherpa (41) died at 28,051’/8550m working for 7 Summits Club summit push from Tibet Details. Nobukazu Kuriki, 36, Japanese died descending from C3, Nepal side, in the night after radioing for help to his video crew at C2 Details Lam Babu Sherpa from Kurima solukhambu working for Seven Summits Treks supporting Ukraine team on Nepal side. Details Gjeorgi Petkov, 63, Macedonia from heart attack working for Tim Mosedale on Nepal side Details 2018 Lhotse Deaths – 1 Russian climber Rustem Amirov died from AMS after nearly summiting Lhotse Details Connect and Support Click to sign up or cancel email notification of new posts If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me Click this link to understand my personal journey with Alzheimer’s disease South Col Route (map) locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides) 346 members EBC C1 C2 C3 C4 S.Col Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) Fixed Line Progress X X X X X 8 Adventure Consultants (8/3) e 10/16 Alpine Ascents Int. e 10/9 Asian Trekking Uttarakhanda Police(12) e 12/14 Asian Trekking BSF (15) e 15/15 Asian Trekking Eco Everest (9) e 12/12 Ascent Himalayas e 7/8 Alpine Sherpa Guide (2) e 2/2 Benegas Brothers Matt Moniz e 2/1 CTSS – Mike Hamill(7/1) e 8/8 Himex (3/1) e 2/2 Himalayan Guides (Henry Todd) (8) e 8/8 IMG Classic Team 1 (10?) e 10/15 IMG Classic Team 3 (10?) e 5/7 IMG Hybrid (5) e ? Imagine Climb (12) e 7/6 Jagged Globe (4/1) e 4/4 Madison Mountaineering e 10/12 Mountain Professionals (4/1) e 4/4 Satori Adventures (6) e 4/6 Summit Climb (5/1) e ?/? Seven Summits Treks (7) Indian e 7/7 Seven Summits Treks (20) Chinese e 9/9 Seven Summits Treks (10) International e 11/12 Tim Mosedale e 4/4 others (est) 65/59 SOUTH TOTAL (est) 229/247 Northeast Ridge Route (map) locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower TEAMS (members/western guides) 180 members CBC
Everest 2017: Team Locations and Headlines
Alan Arnette’s Everest 2017 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I am home in Colorado this season after a climbing accident in February that stopped me from a planned Dhaulagiri climb this spring. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits. HEADLINE: Normal Season, Windy, 7 Deaths, 600++ Summits See all the Everest 2017 posts here Last News: Monday, 31 May 2017 (Everest time: GMT+5:45) Nepal Tourism says 455 summits: 190 foreigners, 32 fee-paying Nepalis, 233 Sherpas Monsoon hits Kathmandu 10 June season is over on both sides Season headlines Nobukazu Kuriki has ended his West Ridge, Hornbein attempt closing out the south side climbers Cargo flight crashes at Lukla, pilots killed source Kami Rita Sherpa summited for the 21st time tying him with Apa and Purba Tashi Sherpa for most summits Kilian Jornet 2d summit in a week run again, ABC to summit and back in 29:30 on 27 May. Nepal officials say Hillary Step is just fine (bad for business?) source Traverse by Janusz Adamski A was illegal, operator sends letter to Government 4 dead at South Col inside tent – with new “guide” service – report was wrong Kilian Jornet summited in record time but ended speed attempt due to illness stopping at ABC on north Blind Austrian climber Andy Holzer summited on north with Furtenbach Adventures My climbing buddy, Jim Davidson, with IMG, summited at sunrise 22 May. Very proud of him Mollie Hughes – now part of “Both Sides Club”, youngest Brit to summit at age 26 EverestER has now seen over 500 patients North side of Everest saw first 2017 summits by Transcend/Arun Trekking Sherpas fixing the rope on 10 May Flu is hitting many climbers on Nepal side 7 Sherpas and 3 Gurkha achieve 1st summits on the Nepal side Monday 15 May 44-year-old Lhakpa Sherpa set record with 8th female summit on Tibet side 13 May Neither side of Everest appears to be suffering from overcrowding this season Himex Sherpa OK after long fall down Lhotse Face Min Bahadur Sherchan, 86, died from unknown causes at Everest Base Camp Ueli Steck dies on Nuptse acclimatising for Everest-Lhotse traverse Winds, winds, winds and difficult weather on Nepal side – the emerging stories for 2017 Arun Treks Sherpa injured by falling ice Gear flown into Western Cwm, eliminating hundreds of Sherpa carries North: 136 foreigners/170 Sherpas South: 28 countries represented, 455 summits: 190 foreigners, 32 fee-paying Nepalis, 233 Sherpas 70 Nepal side climbers used their 2015 extended permit 2017 Deaths: 6 Everest, 1 Nuptse deaths Camp cook for AAI died of a stroke/heart attack at base camp Vladimir Strba, 50 Slovakia, between Balcony/South Col on, climbing as independent with no Os- body retrieved Francesco Enrico Marchetti, 54 Australia, at 8300m after summit from Tibet with Expedition Himalaya – body retrieved Ravi Kumar, 27, from fall near Balcony after summit, separated from his guide from Arun Treks- body retrieved Roland Yearwood, 50 from USA Alabama climbing with SummitClimb – body not retrieved, too difficult Ueli Steck dies on Nuptse acclimatising for Everest-Lhotse traverse – body retrieved Min Bahadur Sherchan, 86, died from unknown causes at Everest Base Camp – body retrieved Connect Click to sign up or cancel email notification of new posts See all the Everest 2017 posts here If you value this coverage, please consider a donation to an Alzheimer’s nonprofit South Col Route (map) locations are for majority of team, individuals may be higher or lower Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides) 375 foreigners/~373 sherpas EBC C1 C2 C3 C4 S.Col Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) Fixed Line Rope to Summit Adventure Consultants (10/5) e 12/18 Adventures Global (8) e 2/2 Alpine Ascents Int. (7/3) e 6/5 Asian Trekking Eco Teams e 2/2? Ascent Himalayas e 8/9 Benegas Brothers 3/2 e 5/5 Himex e 4/4 IMG Classic Team 1 (14/2) e 2/2 IMG Classic Team 2 (14/2) e 12/15 IMG Hybrid (~8/3) e 9/13 Gurkha (10) e 10/10 Madison Mountaineering (11/5) e 13/16 Mountain Madness (5/2) w/MT e 5/7 w/MT Mountain Trip (5/2) w/MM e 5/7 Mountain Professionals e 2/2 Satori Adventures e 5/5 Summit Climb (15/1) e 1+/1+ (death) Seven Summits Treks (100+) e 60/70? Tim Mosedale (2/1) e 2+/2+ others 63/79 (est) SOUTH TOTAL (est) 222/233 Northeast Ridge Route (map) locations are for majority of team, individuals may be higher or lower TEAMS (members/western guides) 136 foreigners/170 sherpas CBC ABC C1 N.Col C2 C3 Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) Fixed Line Ropes to Summit Alpenglow (4/3) e 3/4 Adventure Peaks (4/1) e 4/2 Arnold Coster Expeditions (7/1) e 5+/5+ Furtenbach Adventures (8/1) e 9/8 Iowans for Everest (2) e 2/2 Kobler & Partner e 10/10 Mountain Expeditions (1/1) e 2/2 Summit Climb (11/1) e 7/6 Transcend Adventures (23/1) e 16/22 7 Summits Club e 2+/2+ others 21/19 (est) NORTH TOTAL (est) 80+/82+ LEGEND T/D=Trek/Driving to BC, K=Kathmandu, La=Lhasa, Lo=Lobuche, e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public websites. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage. Other Teams Not providing enough updates to track or comment Dreamers Destination Himalayan Guides Indian Navy Indian ONGC I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted an extensive interview with me and said: I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest” If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me Click this link to understand my personal journey with Alzheimer’s disease Everest Weather Base Camp Summit not intended to replace professional forecasts or critical climbing decisions Reader Polls [poll id=”-2″]
Everest 2016: Team Locations and Headlines
Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2016 coverage My annual coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I attempted Lhotse this spring but ended it early due to an upper respiratory infection. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page. Final Everest 2016 News Please see the Everest 2016 Season summary Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage Climbing has ended from both sides Since 2000, there have been 82 deaths with an average (and median) of a total of seven deaths each season combined on both sides. Using the arbitrary measure of summits to deaths, from 2000 to 2013 the ratio is 1.85%, for 2016 it dropped to 0.8%. In the 1990’s the median ratio was 5.6%. From the early 1920 to today it is about 4%. In 2016, 20 attempts with no Os from both sides, 5 succeeded Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage … read all the Everest 2016 posts. Previous Major Headlines No Lhotse summits this year Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage Excellent, candid report by David Hamilton, Jagged Globe, on their tough summit Sherpas with 10-15 summits of Everest note that the Hillary Step has much more snow than in previous years and appears more like a snow ramp than a rock climb but the rocks are unmoved by the 2015 earthquake. Slovakia climbers rescued off Southwest Face (not normal route) source 289 Everest permits have been issued to 32 different teams Trekkers are down 40% this spring Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage In 2015, the Ministry of Tourism reported 319 individuals with Everest permits and 96 for Lhotse. 109 climbers from 2014 used their permits in 2015. NCELL phone is spotty for voice, little 3G at EBC, EverestLink is working well ropes for the summit safety line were helicoptered into the Camp 1 on May 24. Icefall route has only 7 ladders, usually has 20. Weather continues to be quite warm, more like late May than mid April 2016 Everest Deaths: 5 Paresh Chandra Nath with Trekking Camp Nepal found on Balcony. source Goutam Ghosh with Trekking Camp Nepal found on Balcony. source Subash Pal with Trekking Camp Nepal died on Nepal side source Dr Marisa (Maria) Elizabeth Strydom with Seven Summits Treks dies at South Col. source Eric Arnold with Seven Summits Treks (Arnold Costner) dies at South Col. source 2016 Lhotse Death: 1 Ang Furba Sherpa, fixing ropes for Lhotse. Worked for Arun 2016 Everest North Col Only Death: 1 Charles MacAdams died at Chinese Base Camp after reaching his goal of the North Col source … read all the Everest 2016 posts. South Col Route (map) (Note: If an operator does not provide timely updates, they are not listed) Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides) EBC C1 C2 C3 C4 S.Col Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) Adventure Consultants (9/2) e 8/13 Adventures Global (2/1) e 3/3 Alpine Ascents Int. (2/2) e 3/3 Arnold Coster Expeditions (7) e ? Ascent Himalayas e 4/6 Asian Trekking Eco Teams (14+) e 11/10 Altitude Junkies (7) e 5/11 Dreamers Destination e 3/3 Furtenbach Adventures (6/2) e 5/6? High Adventure Expeditions e 0/1 Himex (5/1) e 6/6 IMG Classic (30?) e 7/11 IMG Hybrid (10/4) e 13/15 Jagged Globe (5/1) e 4/5 Madison Mountaineering (9/3) e 12/15 Mountain Trip e 3/3 Satori Adventures e 7/10 Summit Climb (8/1) e 4/? Seven Summits Treks (45+) e 25/24++ Tim Mosedale (2/1) e 2/2 360 Expeditions (1/1) e 2/2 others 57/100 SOUTH TOTAL (est) 433++ Northeast Ridge Route (map) (Note: If an operator does not provide timely updates, they are not listed) TEAMS (members/western guides) CBC ABC C1 N.Col C2 C3 Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) Asian Trekking ? Alpenglow (2/1) e 4/3 Adventure Peaks e 4/2 Kobler & Partner e 5/? Summit Climb (11/1) e 10/8+ Satori Adventures e 6/6 Heroes Project e 4/4 7 Summits Club (22/4) e 15/12 others 55 NORTH TOTAL (est) 130++ L=Lobuche,e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage. ca I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015. If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted an extensive interview with me where I talk about my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest” If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease [poll id=”-2″]
Everest 2015: Team Locations
Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2015 coverage My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I will be climbing Lhotse thus will be reporting from Everest Base Camp this year with all the regular features plus videos and interviews directly from the mountain as it happens. Latest Everest News – Sunday, May 3, 2015 – Nepal time EVEREST CLOSED FROM BOTH NORTH AND NO ONE CLIMBING FROM THE SOUTH Everest has been closed by the Chinese and practically so on the Nepal side after a 7.8 magnitude earthquake hit Nepal at 11:56 AM on Saturday April 25. The epicenter of the quake was Lamjung, which is 48 kilometers NW of Kathmandu and approximately 100 kilometers west of Everest Base Camp. These are the latest headlines. Scroll down for the latest blog post. Alan Arnette (me) was between Camp 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm when it hit. The Nepal Government finally admitted on 3 May 2015 what everyone knew- Everest is closed from from South side. The Icefall Doctors have given up, no strong, large teams remain at EBC to fix the route a vi C2. Finally the season on both sides is officially over. This will be the first time since 1974 that there will BE NO summit on Everest. In further embarrassment, Nepal’s tourism department said on 4 May, 2105 that Everest open, and it is up to anyone with a permit to climb. personally, I hope no one tries. Almost no one is at EBC but there are always individuals with their own agenda. Prior Headlines The Indian Army remains at EBC to assist in clean up. To my knowledge, there will be no further attempts from Nepal for 2015. Only a few large teams still trekking down the Khumbu Many climbers have already or are scheduled to leave Kathmandu by commercial flights Kathmandu airport has been closed to heavy military, relief airplanes due to runway wear/tear considerations, still open to smaller aircraft, including most commercial flights. HIMEX has declared they will not attempt any Himalayan Peak. I think this is the last major team to have kept their decision open thus making it 99% that no one will attempt Everest from Nepal … but there are always individuals like last year that could try. Nick Ciensk (Founder and CEO and Under Armour Senior Director of Innovation), climbing with Himex trying to climb Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and 3 other 8000m peaks in 6 months has canceled his efforts May 1, 2105 – this may be the last holdout for Everest 2015 from Nepal Nepal Government says Icefall Doctors will return to fix Khumbu Icefall route “within a week” The Chinese (CTMA) have officially announced that ALL mountains in Tibet are closed to climbing – unclear if that extends to the autumn season. CTMA close Everest North for fear of aftershocks Nepal side teams are streaming out by helicopter or by foot through the Khumbu Himex adopting a wait and see approach after getting approval to fly loads (not people) into Cwm At least 19 dead at EBC, over 120 injured 170 climbers evacuated out of Western Cwm Ice serac releases off Pumori caused by 7.9 earthquake near Kathmandu on Saturday, April 25 The casualty count at EBC is 19+, many, many injuries ~ 120_ as of this post – 7PM April 27 Most of the injuries and casualty were from wind blast off Pumori and associated impact with rocks EverestER and Doctors with others teams doing amazing work Alan was between C1 and C2 when earthquake hit causing major avalanches off Nuptse and Everest W Shoulder Alan now at Gorak Shep starting long journey to return home, comms spotty at Multiple aftershocks created uncertainty a about Khumbu Icefall causing evac from Cwm and cancellation of many team’s expeditions. Over 150 helicoptered from C1 in Western Cwm today, April 27 No one ever in real danger at C1 and C2, plenty of food and supplies 4 minute turn around time to EBC with 2 per helicopter Outstanding cooperation with some exceptions Many have found personal items in flattened tents Many teams have left EBC and are in teahouse in Khumbu Some are back in Kathmandu via helicopter Almost all teams are preparing to leave EBC and stop south side attempts Indian Army team of 35 to remain at EBC to assist with humanitarian efforts Some small teams will stay and make a decision in a few days Icefall Doctors have stopped maintaining the route due to safety, aftershock concerns – they may return – unkown A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page South Col Route (map) Nepal CLOSES Everest as Icefall Doctors says route unrepairable Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides) 359 Climbers/350 Sherpas EBC C1 C2 C3 C4 S.Col Summits Adventure Consultants (9/2) e Adventures Global (4/1) e Alpine Ascents Int. (6/2) e H Arnold Coster Expeditions (10/1) e Asian Trekking Eco Teams e H Altitude Junkies e Benegas Brothers (2/1) e Gurkhas (15) e Himex e IMG Classic (19/0) e H IMG Hybrid (10?/4?) e H Jagged Globe (9/2) e RMI (6/2) e H Madison Mountaineering (12/4) e H Mountain Gurus (2/1) e Mountain Trip (1/1) e Sean Wisedale (4/1) e Summit Climb (8/1) e Tim Mosedale e Trek 8848 e 360 Expeditions (1/1) e others e SOUTH TOTAL (est) Northeast Ridge Route (map) Everest from Tibet CLOSED by CTMA fearing aftershocks TEAMS (members/western guides) 150 Climbers/175 Sherpas CBC ABC C1 N.Col C2 C3 Summit Asian Trekking e Alpenglow (6/2) e Adventure Peaks (8/1) e British Army e Kari Kobler e Summit Climb (11/1) e 7 Summits Club e others e NORTH TOTAL (est) L=Lobuche,e=climb
Everest 2014: Team Locations
Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2014 coverage My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. Latest Everest News – May 31, 2014 My summary of this tragic season http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=19748 NORTH: The season is over on the North side. I am estimating about 125 summits. NO deaths reported on the North side for 2014. SOUTH: The season is over on the South side. – 6 summits 19 deaths on South side in 2014 General News & Notes My sincere and deep condolences to families, teammates of the 17 Sherpa climbers killed on Everest this year. Donations for families of Sherpa killed in serac fall: American Alpine Club American Himalayan Foundation Himalayan Trust Juniper Fund Sherpa Education Fund Sherpa Fund Suport4Sherpa US Nepal Climbers Association Supporting Sherpa Children A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page South Col Route (map) Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides) 334 westerners 31 teams, 300+ Sherpa EBC C1 C2 C3 C4 S.Col Summits (climbers/Sherpas) Adventure Consultants (6/2) e Adventures Global e Alpenglow (3/1) e Alpine Ascents Int. (12/3) e Arnold Coster Expeditions (5/1) e Asian Trekking Eco Teams (17/0) e Altitude Junkies (7/1) e Exploradus Expedition (3/1) e Himex (17/4) e IMG Classic (17/3) e IMG Hybrid (11/5) e H Ascent Himalayas (9/15) e Jagged Globe (9/3) e RMI (8?/2?) e Benegas Brothers e Madison Mountaineering e Peak Freaks(8/3) e Saatori Expeditions (7/1) e Summit Climb (8/2) e Tim Mosedale e Jing Wang 1/5 others SOUTH TOTAL (est) 6 Northeast Ridge Route (map) TEAMS (members/western guides) 100 Climbers CBC ABC C1 N.Col C2 C3 Summits (climbers/Sherpas) Asian Trekking (10) e 2+/2+ Adventure Peaks e 2/1 Kari Kobler (11/3) e 8/? Malta Everest (4) e 4/? Summit Climb (5/1) e 5/? 7 Summits Club (14/4) e 17/14 others 2++/2++ NORTH TOTAL (est) 125++ e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011. If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest” If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease 17 Confirmed deaths Mingma Tenzing Sherpa Peak Freaks, died from HAPE Mingma Nuru Sherpa, , Shangrila Nepal on NBC Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Dorji Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on NBC Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Ang Tshiri Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Nima Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Chhiring Ongchu Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Dorjee Khatri, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Dorjee Sherpa, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Phur Temba Sherpa, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Pasang Karma Sherpa from Juving Solukhumbu, Jagged Globe,died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Asman Tamang, Himalayan Ecstasy Lhotse, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Ankaji Sherpa, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition, from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Ash Bahadur Gurung, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition, from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Missing – Unknown status, presumed d Tenzing Chottar Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition, from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall Pem Tenji Sherpa, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition, from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall [poll id=”-2″]
Everest 2013 Team Locations
Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2013 coverage My coverage is based on my own experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. Latest Everest News – May 31, 2013 A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who made a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. That is why I do this. Very rough, unconfirmed estimates: Total at base camps: 415 westerners plus 625 Sherpas totaling 1040. 658 combined summits from both sides 63% summit to attempt rate. 8 total deaths. Start or stop email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page This page only list the 2013 team locations, click here for the daily 2013 coverage now ended South Col Route (map) Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides)29 teams, 315 climbers, 500+ Sherpas/Staff EBC C1 C2 C3 C4/SC Summits(climbers/Sherpas) Adventure Consultants (10/4) e 11/22 Adventures Global (5/0) e 2/2 Alpenglow (2/1) e 2/4 Alpine Ascents Int. (12/3)(4/1) e 18/21 Asian Trekking Eco Teams (26/0) e 14/21 Berg Adventures (3/0) e 2/2 Himalayan Ascent e 1/2 Himex (12/2) e 12/12 IMG Classic (25?/1?) e 24/20 IMG Hybrid (8?/3?) e 0/7 Jagged Globe (10/3) e 13/11 Mountain Trip (3/1) e 1/4 RMI (3/2) e 2/3 Patagonia Brothers(2/1) e 3/2 Peak Freaks (8/3) e 6/8 Pune Indian (6) e 3/? Rolwaling (7/2) e 7/8 Summit Climb (7/1) e 7/5 Tim Mosedale (6/1) e 4/4 USAF 7 Summits (6/0) e 4/4 others e 276 SOUTH TOTAL (est) 539 Northeast Ridge Route (map) TEAMS (members/western guides)10 teams, 100 climbers/125+ Sherpas/Staff CBC ABC C1/NC C2 C3 Summits(climbers/Sherpas) AMICAL (4/0) e 4/? Asian Trekking (5/0) e 5/4 Adventure Peaks (9/2) e 8/6 Altitude Junkies (10/1) e 4/7 Kobler & Partner e 6/9 Summit Climb (15/1) e 11/12 7 Summits Club (13/4) e 10/9 others e 24 NORTH TOTAL (est) 119 e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010 and 2012 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011. If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest” If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease 8 Confirmed 2013 Everest deaths Mingma Sherpa, 47, from Lukla, working as Icefall Doctor slipped into crevasse in Western Cwm. DaRita Sherpa, 37, from Phortse working for IMG died from sudden cardiac or cerebral event at Camp 3. Family fund at this link Sergey Ponomarev climbing with 7 Summits Club died at Advanced Base Camp on the north side presumably of a heart attack. Lobsang Sherpa, 27,from Kharikhola working for Seven Summits Treks fell down Lhotse Face. Alexey Bolotov, 50, from Russia, has died from a fall. He was climbing with Denis Urubko on a new route on SW Face Namgyal Sherpa, 35, Kathmandu and Bangdel Khotang, died on North Side Sung Ho-Seo, 34, of South Korea was attempting the climb without supplementary oxygen and died on his way down the mountain. Mohammed Hossain, 35, from Bangladesh, died on the descent after summiting. A death has been reported on Lhotse. Xiaoshi Li, 58, died climbing Lhotse. An earlier report of Hsiao Shishlee, proved to be the same person. Please click this link for the discussion page including on the Simone More/Sherpa Conflict. [poll id=”-2″]