HIMALI: A Gear Company with Great Ideas and Products
How often does a new company enter the highly competitive market for quality outdoor jackets and clothing … and succeed? Well, Boulder, Colorado-based HIMALI has done just that and judging by their second-generation line, they are excelling. Full disclosure, company founders Dave Schaeffer and Tendi Sherpa provided at no charge all the gear I have used for evaluation. I’ve been using their first-generation down jacket for over a year now and it has become my goto jacket here in Colorado, on Nepal’s Island Peak last October and this year in Ecuador and Bolivia. The second-generation is full of small improvements and maintains the quality and durability of its’ predecessor. Here I am on a crisp October day in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain Park about to climb the 2nd of the Ptarmigan Fingers next to the Tyndall Glacier. A quick list of features that I find well designed and implemented include large, large pockets that are strong and suitable for almost anything you need outside your pack, well-sized and fitted hoods for helmets, very strong exterior materials and easy, reliable zippers. Now for a quick rundown on the new products I’ve been using for a month or so. The Altocumulus Down Jacket 2.0 Men’s Hooded This is my go-to down jacket. One of my favorite features is that you will never lose the stuff sack, it’s sewn into an outer pocket! The outer material is Pertex® Quantum ripstop nylon that is truly durable. It’s filled with 4.5 ounces of 850 Hyper DRY® down meaning you don’t have to worry as much if the jacket gets damp from sweat or wet snowfall as it will maintain its warmth. As for the tiny improvements, they include a bit of fleece around the section of the jacket, when fully zipped, that softy touches your mouth and a tiny “zipper garage”, again when fully zipped, keeps the end from poking you. These details show that Dave and Tendi are paying attention to climber’s needs. It retails for $294.95. It also comes in a nonhooded option. Altitude Down Parka This jacket is a step-up in terms of fill weight. It shares many of the same features as it’s little brother, the Altocumulus but is twice as warm with 8 ounces of down fill for those extra cold and windy days up high. One nice addition is the fleece-lined front pockets. Overall this is a solid piece that will do the job when called upon. It retails for $394.95. Ascent Stretch Hoodie The Ascent Stretch Hoodie is a synthetic insulation layer filled with 100g of Primaloft® Gold Active+ Insulation wrapped in a Toray® Primeflex Nylon Stretch Shell. This makes it one of the most insulated softshells on the market and thus one of the warmest. This piece meets the needs for warmth on a coldish day even in a brisk wind. They say it repels a decent rain but I haven’t tested that. It’s a bit bulky but wears well underneath with one the HIMALI down jackets. I wore it on an ice climb recently and was very pleased. It retails for $249.95. It also comes in a nonhooded option. Guide Flex Pants While these pants are only available through their outlet store, for now, I highly recommend them. I wore them on my recent ice climb and now they are my goto winter to shoulder-season pair. They are made of spandex and nylon resulting in a 4-way stretch softshell layer that are incredibly lightweight yet warm and wind-resistant. They excel at repelling water yet breathe well. There are bottom zippers for boot access and an integrated belt tension system to allow you to get the right fit. Overall a great pair of pants. Interview Time to get to know Dave and Tendi with an interview we just completed. Q: Let’s start with the people behind HIMALI, Dave and Tendi. Many people know Tendi Sherpa as a 13-time Everest summiteer and IFMGA climbing guide. They may not know he is the Executive Director of TAGnepal Treks & Expedition, leads the Nepal operation for Swiss-based Audan Trekking and is a key leader for the US-based guide company, Climbing the Seven Summits. Tendi, what drives your love of climbing? Tendi: I really love climbing because it’s simply a tradition for me. I have grown up in the mountains and have worked in the mountains for many years. Nowadays I simply feel that the mountains are like my home and climbers are like family members. The mountains have given me so much in my life, pleasure, a living, friends and introduced me to the world. Dave, you live in Colorado and are approaching your 33rd birthday. Going to college in Colorado did you climb, ski or study more while at CU? Is HIMALI your full-time gig? Dave: HIMALI has been a full-time gig, plus some, for about 5 years running 🙂 I started climbing indoors at the age of 12 and shifted to climbing outdoors, snowboarding, and some mountaineering around my mid and later teens. The culture and community had a super positive influence on my life, morals, and life trajectory. Going to CU, we were right next to the best skiing and climbing in the world. I definitely live by the work hard and play hard mentality. I think a lot of Boulderites and CU students do the same. Q: Dave, moving to the business side of HIMALI did you always dream of starting your own company while at CU or did it “just happen”? Dave: I think entrepreneurship is in my bones. I recall trying to sell my baseball cards to friends when I was 8. At 11, I was passing out lawn moving service flyers to my neighborhood and had about 10 weekly customers each summer. I also spent a lot of part-time hours at REI from ages 16 to 29. I had been brainstorming gear for a long time before “diving in”. In terms of CU, I approached business school with a true passion to learn about business.
Gifts for the 2018 Climber in your Life
Looking for that perfect gift for your climber (or yourself) ? Hopefully this update for Holiday 2018 season’s annual post will give you some ideas based on my own personal experience. You don’t have to spend a lot to make your climber happy! I always try to buy local to keep the sales tax in my city and support my local retails but there are good deals online at: Sierra Trading Post – lowest prices on first, seconds and closeouts Steep and Cheap – Incredible deals that last only a few minutes REI Outlet – deals on already great prices Backcountry – full line on-line retailer with good review feature Moosejaw – full line on-line retailer with an attitude Campmor – full line on-line retailer for discounted new gear OMC Gear – full line on-line retailer with good phone service TravelCountry – end of season deals If you are looking to research gear, I suggest using these sites: Outdoor GearLab Gear Junkie Gear Institute note: I do not receive any compensation from any of these sites Books for Inspiration The Ledge: A story of resilience and courage by my friend Jim Davidson. Trapped on Rainier in a crevasse, his partner dying … the story reveals what humans can do. Doofus Dad Does Everest Base Camp: A quick easy read about a Tennessean who makes the trek to EBC for the first time. I was honored to have written the forward. Training for the New Alpinism is a repeat from last year but still in my view, THE must read for anyone wanting to up their game – literally and figuratively. Written by Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers. Everest: The West Ridge. The amazing story of Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsold’s 1963 ascent to the top of Everest using the never climbed West Ridge Route. Even today, 2018, the West Ridge is rarely climbed. Climbing Movies for that cold winter night Free Solo: Arguably the greatest rock climbing performance of all times. Alex Honnold completes the first free solo climb of famed El Capitan’s 3,000-foot vertical rock face at Yosemite National Park. Even though we know he safely completes the climb, it’s still a nail biter. Dawn Wall: More than story of amazing rock climbing. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson climb of the 3,000′ rock face in Yosemite is a tale of friendship, loyalty and commitment. Like Free Solo, we know how it ends AND this film still has you gripping the chair with white knuckles. Meru: Even though its been out for a while, if you haven’t seen this flick, get on it now! Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk take on the Shark’s Fin on Mount Meru, the most technically complicated and dangerous peak in the Himalayas, and one that has never been scaled to completion. Organizations worthy of membership or donation American Alpine Club: The premier US climbing organization where your membership also provides evacuation coverage, gear discounts while supporting the climber community. Nature Conservancy: Protecting ecologically important lands and waters for nature and people. Himalayan Stove Project: Thru donating clean-cook stoves to rural homes thoughtout Nepal, the HSP changes lives by removing the toxic smoke from wood cooing fries inside homes. They have already made positive changes for over 40,000 people. $150 will buy a stove but any amount is appreciated. Dzi Foundation: The dZi Foundation works in partnership with remote communities in Nepal to create lasting improvements in their quality of life through implementing community-driven programs that improve public facilities, public health, income levels and educational opportunities while preserving community unity, the natural environment, and indigenous culture. Safety for your loved one BCA’s Tracker2 Avalanche Transceiver: BCA makes a full line of backcountry safety equipment from shovels and probes to airbag float packs. If you are skiing in the back country, out of bounds or in avi terrain, this is a must have piece plus a shovel and probe. The Tracker 2 is well-known for its ease of use and uncomplicated interface. $206 Personal Locator Beacon: If you are worried about your hiker/climber/hunter/boater/adventurer then this baby will give you peace of mind. Turn it on, push one button and rescue services will be contacted with the precise location of the device – anywhere on the planet! NO subscription required $290 Garmin inReach Mini 2: Fits in your palm, this tiny, lightweight device can not only alert Search and Rescue of an emergency but also send and receive text messages – all using satellites, not cell phone service. A subscription is required so more expensive than a PLB. $350 Stocking Suffers are Everyone’s Favorite! Darn Tough Sock: Hands down the best sock I’ve ever used. Kept me cozy from Everest to K2 to Colorado 14ers. $24 Anker Power Core 5000. A little bundle of energy that will charge your phone, camera or anything that recharges using a USB port. Always with me on any trip. $20 Snow Peak Titanium Spork: Who needs a titanium fork? Everybody!!! Especially if it’s in your pack. This little guy guy does it all – spoon and fork! $10 Inexpensive Gear at a low price and great quality Honey Stinger Fruit Smoothie Chew: A natural way to keep your energy going during a long day. Made with organic honey and tapioca syrup. I only use Honey Stinger products on my outings as I find they give a long lasting boost and taste great. $29 for box of 12 Grigri: While more expensive than traditional belay devices, the Petzel Grigri takes almost all the thinking out of belaying a partner high on a rock wall. $99 Action Wipes: Not sure a run of the mill wet wipe but a thoughtful way to stay clean and refreshed after a long run, hike or day in the Hills where a shower is not close by. A bit pricy but worth it for a clean-up that leaves you fresh. $39 Going
Gifts for the 2017 Climber in your Life
Looking for that perfect gift for your climber (or yourself) ? Hopefully this post will give you some ideas based on my own personal experience. You don’t have to spend a lot to make your climber happy! I always try to buy local to keep the sales tax in my city and support my local retails but there are good deals online at: Sierra Trading Post – lowest prices on first, seconds and closeouts Steep and Cheap – Incredible deals that last only a few minutes REI Outlet – deals on already great prices Backcountry – full line on-line retailer with good review feature Moosejaw – full line on-line retailer with an attitude Campmor – full line on-line retailer for discounted new gear OMC Gear – full line on-line retailer with good phone service TravelCountry – end of season deals If you are looking to research gear, I suggest using these sites: Outdoor GearLab Gear Junkie Gear Institute note: I do not receive any compensation from any of these sites Books for Inspiration The Ledge: A story of resilience and courage by my friend Jim Davidson. Trapped on Rainier in a crevasse, his partner dying … the story reveals what humans can do. My Old Man and the Mountain: A father-son story revolving around Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Everest in 1963 and his son, Leif Whittaker. Written by Leif, he takes us through his life in the shadow of his father’s fame to his own summit of Everest in 2010. A bit of history, family dynamics and climbing Everest makes for an entertaining read. Training for the New Alpinism has become the must read for anyone wanting to up their game – literally and figuratively. While long and plodding at times, if you can get through it you will be a better climber at all levels. Written by Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers. Seventy Summits: Long time mountain guide and somewhat of a legend, Vern Tejas has a new book where he describes how he started guiding (a big surprise) and covers the 7 Summits where Vern has climbed each (Bass list) over 10 times each and over 200 in total!!! A nice overview if you are interested in climbing the 7, mountaineering in general or seeing the life of a mountain guide from the inside. Climbing Movies for that cold winter night Best Climbing Movies Touching the Void: Probably the best climbing movie ever. The story of Joe Simpson’s amazing survival after falling into a crevasse when partner Simon Yates cut his rope. Everest: Everyone’s favorite mountain to love and hate, this recent movie (2015) is loosely based on Into Thin Air and tells the story when of the 1996 disaster where 8 people died on a single day. I think it is the best movie about Everest outside of a documentary. North Face: A gripping movie around German alpinists, Toni Kurz and Andi Hinterstoisser attempt to climb the Eiger north face in 1936. Closely following behind then were Austrian competitors, Willy Angerer and Edi Rainier. The movie picks up as Willy gets seriously injured by a falling rock. All four men realize they must work together. The movie is full of amazing climbing scenes and high stakes drama. Extremely well done. Worst Climbing Movies (great for a nite of laughs!) Vertical Limit: If you ever wondered if you need nitroglycerin to climb K2 – this is the movie for you! It has everything from flirting at base camp to “amazing” scenes of one-handed self arrests while flying over a ice cliff to a cameo from Ed Viesturs. While I think the producers thought they were making a great climbing movie, they did succeed in making a movie will keep you laughing for years! Cliffhanger: Sylvester Stallone shows us how to drop your climbing partner, fall in a freezing stream without getting your hair wet and why huge biceps are a must for rock climbing. All of this plus a ‘high’ altitude game of cops and robbers in the Rocky Mountains! If this won’t get you training, nothing will 😮 Subzero: Once again K2 is in the middle of explosions and vertical rock climbing. A device controlling a Russian-made satellite weapon is stolen by terrorists, who attempt to escape by plane, but are shot down. The active, ready-to-strike device now rest on top of K2. The team must retrieve and deactivate the device. Unfortunately, it’s winter. A recruited team of the best mountain climbers in the world must bring techs to deactivate the device to the top of K2. Another must watch – if you can find it for free! Organizations worthy of membership or donation American Alpine Club: The premier US climbing organization where your membership also provides evacuation coverage, gear discounts while supporting the climber community. Nature Conservancy: Protecting ecologically important lands and waters for nature and people. British Mountaineering Council: The largest climbing organization in the UK. Big City Mountaineers: Bring the gift of the outdoors to urban youth Safety for your loved one Garmin InReach: A GPS device that helps friends and family follow you while hiking or climbing anywhere in the world. You can send custom messages and read replies on the device. Also a 24×7 monitored SOS button that will contact Search and Rescue. A great gift for entire family to go into together. $400 Medical Kit: This kit is small and lightweight. Targeting a four-day trip, its has an assortment of first aid supplies to treat cuts and allergies to upset stomach and dehydration organized into nice pockets for fast and easy identification and access. $40 Sol Bivy: inexpensive emergency shleter for the unexpeted. Not a tent and won’t replace a sleeping bacg but might help you make it through the nite. A must for anyone hiking far, or close, from home. $40 Stocking Suffers are Everyone’s Favorite! Sawyer Mini Water Filter: Don’t
Gear: winter Layers
With winter about to launch in full, and the upper United States experiencing an Arctic cold wave, I thought now is a good time to review some thoughts on how to layer for those winter climbs. I just got back home from a great summit climb on Mt. Washington in New Hampshire at 6,289 feet. But don’t let the relatively low altitude fool you into thinking its not cold on the top! “The rock” is known for some of the most unpredictable and worse weather on the planet. On April 12, 1934, the Mount Washington Observatory recorded a windspeed of 231 miles per hour (372 km/h) at the summit, the world record for most of the 20th century, and still a record for measured wind speeds not involved with a tropical cyclone. When I summited with Chris Ummer, who has 100 summits on the rock, it was not that bad with winds above tree line about 40mph, temp about 10F making the windchill -15F. But the visibility was almost zero for much of the day. A week before Washington, I summited one of my local peaks, Twin Sisters at 11,427 feet. That day it was very cold, below 0F but there was no wind. So, we have two very different climbs with different conditions. What did I wear? Basically the same layering system. My general rule of thumb is to never have more than three layers on at any one time and at least one “layer of last resort” in my pack. Base Layer – head to toe This is the key to every layering strategy. A good base layer will wick away sweat, while keeping you warm. It should also feel good next to your skin and the top will have a long zipper for venting. Finally, thumb loops are a convenient feature. There are several types of materials to select from including synthetics (polyester and polyester blends), silk and wool. I’ve tried all and my choice is Merino wool – hands down, full stop – end of discussion! 🙂 When I look at my base layers neatly stacked on one of my gear shelves, I have tops and bottoms from Icebreaker, Ibex and Patagonia. I have found these brands to be well made, good features and last forever if cared for properly (simple washing every now and then). I also wear only Merino wool skull cap, liner gloves, briefs and socks. If it touches my skin, then it must be … well I think you get the idea! Why am I in love with the wool from a sheep? Glad you asked! First, I like how it feels next to my skin. Second, the stuff doesn’t seem to smell. Third, I never seem to get too hot or cold in spite of wide ranging temperature changes. For the record, I wear short sleeve Merino wool tops in the summer. However, moisture control is the characteristic that always brings me back to Merino wool. I never feel like I am trapped in a sweatshop. It has a magic property of wicking away the moisture before it begins to build. By the way, that is the secret to the no-smell zone. Those stinky bacteria never get a chance to settle in. Finally the lightweight material is easy to cram in my pack. I usually have an extra top stowed away somewhere. The fact that the individual strands of wool absorb water vapor before it condenses makes it an ideal wicking layer. According to a New Zealand industry group, Merino can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture before it starts to feel damp. Its regain factor (the amount of water in the fiber expressed as a percentage of its dry weight) is 17 percent under standard conditions, compared to between 1-4 % for synthetic fibers. So what is it with this Merino wool and where does it come from? Merino is a breed of sheep primarily raised in New Zealand and Australia. Selling the wool has tuned into a huge industry. A quick review of the major gear companies that sell Merino wool based products find quick agreement on a few basics: the wool is some of the quality in the world, it does not irritate the skin like traditional wool, it is renewable and easy on the environment and the wicking ability keeps the skin drier. Merino used to be expensive and not used widely for sports base layers but with competition the price has dropped. Today New Zealand and Australian sheep farmers dominate the market. And quality clothing are available from many of the major brands. In fact Icebreaker has a complete layering system made of 100% Merino wool – very nice. The only real controversy seems to be around how the wool is prepared after sheering. Patagonia explains that each strand of wool contains barb scales that must be removed to prevent skin irritation. Some processes use chlorine to remove the barbs and smooth the material but Patagonia uses a chlorine-free process. Icebreaker, Ibex, and Patagonia all use environmentally friendly manufacturing approaches as specified by the New Zealand MAPP Tech supplier. Mid Layer Here is where it gets interesting and where you can have a good discussion (or fight) about what is the approach. The mid layer is supposed to trap the warmth your body generates but passes thru the moisture so you don’t get wet and cold. Just like base layers, there are a multitude of materials, designs and features to choose from. On my recent climbs, I decided to do a simple experiment using two of my favorite Patagonia layers: the R1 Hoody and the relatively new Nano-Air Hoody. There are similar products from most of the major outdoor gear brands. The R1 is what Patagonia calls fleece or really traditional Polartec material. The inside layer is a basket weave so that it creates an air layer on top of your base layer. This equals warmth and easy movement. They incorporated Capliene 4 stretch panels under the arms, cuffs
Out of Sight and Mind: Summit Socks (and boots)
As I packed my gear for Manaslu, I looked at my pile of socks. Summit socks, s I need summit socks. Wait you say, are summit socks different than climbing or trekking or any other kind of socks? Glad you asked. By the time you are ready to go for the summit of a big cold mountain like Aconcagua, Denali, Manaslu or Everest, your body is pretty beat up. The training, trekking and acclimatization has taken a toll, especially on your feet. There is not much you can do about it at this point other than putting on a good pair of NEW, dry, clean socks. The key word is new. Each time we wear socks during a climb, they absorb moisture, grit and loose a bit of their padding and bounce. In the end, they don’t quite do the job you need at 8000 meters with crampons attached to your boots in cold snow at 40 below zero in … well you get the idea. I have used socks from a lot of different companies, all claiming to be the . They promote their mixture of wool, nylon, elastic with extra padding here or there. Some come with individual toes, some come without toes at all. And they all come at a big price, $20 or more for a pair of socks. Sock Strategy Socks are actually a bit complicated. I call it my sock strategy. Two thick pairs, two medium pairs, maybe a liner and a thick sock, maybe just one thick? A lot depends on your boot and also how warm or cold your feet get. I think this is highly individual and deserves a lot of experimenting – before you leave home! I have tried all the aforementioned strategies and have settled on using one thick pair. As for my summit socks, I use the same style and thickness so after staring at my Manaslu gear for too long, I rallied and went down to REI for a new pair of summit socks – their merino wool expedition socks for $16.50. Now, sitting in my tent at 7400 meters on Manaslu, I reached into my pack and pulled out my NEW, dry, clean socks. Gently I teased them on – a moment of comfort in a harsh world up high. As I pulled on my 8000 meter boot liners, I could feel the wool against my soles. Once I put the outer boots on and stood up, I could hear my toes laugh out loud in glee. OK, I know this is a bit too much; but seriously they were comfortable and made all the difference in the world and for my mental state. As I climbed that day, my feet felt good – warm and comfy. My conclusion: a new pair of good socks and only wear them one time – on the summit push! You’ll never regret it. Foot Warmers One more comment on protecting your toes. I used the Hotronic foot warmer on Everest and Manaslu with mixed results. The good news was when they worked, they were fantastic. The bad news, on both climbs, I had battery issues. Even after leaving home with a full charge, it is difficult to keep the rechargeable batteries topped off during a long expedition and my battery packs ran out after a short time on both climbs. On Everest, we made a sudden departure from Base Camp and I never had the opportunity to top them off. They lasted a few hours on the medium setting. On Manaslu, one battery pack was inadvertently turned on in my pack and was dead when I tried to use it. The other lasted all day at the lowest setting. If you, unlike me, can manage the battery issues properly, I highly recommend them. Boots While we are talking about feet, lets quickly cover boots, a subject I detest. People always ask me what boots should I for Aconcagua, Rainier, Everest. My answer – I don’t know! I have owned more pair of boots than socks – and that is a lot. And I have never been totally happy. I hear fellow climbers sing the praises of their boots – ” ever; my feet never get cold/wet; you HAVE to these: and on and on. Well, I’m happy that you are so happy – NOT! I struggle with boots. They are too narrow, too wide, too short. I get black toenails, blisters. My feet get hot, my feet get cold. My shins are worn bare. All that said, I do survive. I have used the older models of Millet, La Sportiva and currently Kayland on my 8000m, Vinson and Denali climbs. I have short, wide feet – like a duck – and wear a 8.5 street shoe and a 9 for climbing boots. I have never had frostbite or suffered too much so these three brands have served me well. On 8000 meter mountains the standard design are double boots with an integrated knee high gator. In my observation two brands dominate the scene: Millet and La Sportiva. But there are many out there that work just as well. One of the biggest challenges in finding a pair of 8000 meter boots is that feet swell at altitude. So if they fit in the store, they might not fit on the summit. The advice I can give is to go to a store and try them on with your summit socks :). The rule of thumb is to at least one size larger than your street shoe size. But widths vary greatly so the pair that fits the from that store. You can them online and save money but if they don’t fit, there is the hassle of returning them. Pay the extra, get expert advice and support your local store. If your local store does not carry these, select your online store carefully. Just like socks, wear them on a few long days at home to make sure
Gear Review: Layering System on Manaslu
As I planned my September 2013 climb of the world’s 8th highest mountain, Manaslu (26, 759 feet 8156 meters), I looked at my gear carefully. It had worked well on Everest and the 7 Summits plus countless other climbs but I wanted to reduce weight and frankly some of it was worn out with rips and thin spots. So I focused on upgrading my upper body layers. With that in mind, I went to the Patagonia website for some ideas and ended up replacing my warmth and wind layers. I am extremely pleased with the results. I have always been a big fan of Patagonia and have a lot of their kit which I usually on . With these new s, I am a devote’ for life. Ultralight Down Jacket with Hood I had used the Patagonia Micropuff Hooded jacket for years. It was my go-to warmth layer and was almost always in my pack from Vinson to Everest. It was the only top layer I wore on many of the 7 Summits. But I had ripped it and it did not pack very small but still met my needs. However, it was time to replace it. I liked the primaloft fill since it didn’t degrade when wet but I loved the idea of a new generation of lightweight down jackets as demonstrated by Mountain Hardwear’s Ghost Whisperer and Patagonia’s Ultralight Down Jacket with Hood. I bought the Ghost Whisperer but returned it after mistakenly ordering the hyperblue color – it was shinny and a bit too “blue” for me. Plus I was nervous about how fragile it appeared in spite of talking to people who had used it with success for a year. Given all this, I then ordered the Patagonia Ultralight. I have not looked backed. The jacket is unbelievably light coming in at 9 ounces. It packs to the size of an overgrown grapefruit and is warm, warm, warm. At times, I forgot I was wearing it on Manaslu. The fabric is tough and rejected my clumsy moves against sharp rock, ice and pro. And I love the hood. Regular readers will note my affection for hoods and all my jackets have one. This one adds at least 10 degrees to the warmth value for me. I took my heavy and bulky but trusted Feather Friends Volant 800 fill down jacket and never took it out of the stuff sack. Bottom line: a great jacket that is so light you might not notice. Specs Pros Cons 9.3 oz Shell and lining: 0.8-oz 10-denier 100% nylon ripstop with a Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish. Insulation: 800-fill-power premium European goose down Full hood $350 from Patagonia Warm Sheds moderate snow or light rain Collapsible Excellent hood Layers well slim fit Expensive Susceptible to very sharp objects Down not waterproof Does not pack into pocket Troposphere Jacket The second jacket I needed was a replacement for all my wind/rain/snow shells. I have quite a collection now ranging from heavy Gortex versions to light wind layers. But I wanted something that would repel a heavy rain or wet snow plus give me protection in a gale. This selection was more difficult than the down jacket. Gear manufacturers have gone nuts in this category in my view offering so many choices that I just gave up many times as I shopped. I wanted something light, it had to be wind and waterproof plus breathed (as much as anything waterproof breathes). It had to have a hood and I didn’t want to spend $500. The Patagonia Troposphere shell came into focus. It met my needs and was affordable. When I opened the packaging at home, I was a bit disappointed with the feel as it felt a bit plastic, more like a raincoat. But I gave it a go. And in my opinion, another winner. The material did “soften” a bit over time but more importantly it met my needs of rain and wind protection. In fact it also is pretty warm given the proper base layers underneath. The pockets are well placed and generous and the hood is the right size – not too big or small. I wore it often on Manaslu and on some training climbs here in Colorado. It shed water like a duck and kept out the wind like a wall. Bottom line: Keeps you warm and dry. What else do you need? Specs Pros Cons 17.4 oz H2No® Performance Standard 2.5-layer waterproof/breathable nylon stretch shell Full hood $300 from Patagonia Waterproof Windproof Excellent Hood Breaths well Excellent pockets Good neck protection Layers well Expensive Fabric feels a bit plastic Houdini Jacket Finally, I needed a new wind shirt. My Marmot Ion Wind Shirt had served me well for literally years but was developing holes and was not water resistant at all. Once again, this category is blessed with choices. But since I was on the Patagonia site, I looked at their Houdini wind shirt. It was priced right and offered what I wanted – small, lightweight, compressible and water repellent. I found myself wearing this on the trek and climb almost as a base layer. If the wind picked up, it was the first layer I put on. If it drizzled, the Houdini came out. The hood was perfect, once again adding warmth to the equation. Bottom line: Don’t leave home without it Specs Pros Cons 4 oz Nylon ripstop with a Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish Full hood $100 from Patagonia Tiny Light Windproof Good water repellent packs in own pocket Excellent for layering Excellent hood Pricey Susceptible to very sharp objects As always, my base layer was merino wool. I had a top and bottom from Icebreaker and am very pleased with them but most base layers made from this incredible sheep will work. I found myself climbing through 7000 meters often with the baselayer then one of the afore mentioned layers feeling warm, or cool, in spite of
Gifts for the 2012 Climber in your Life
Looking for that perfect gift for your climber (or yourself) ? Hopefully this post will give you some ideas. You don’t have to spend a lot to make your climber happy! These are some ideas based on my own personal experiences. If you have time and want the absolute lowest price, use the website Spadout. Do a search for your product and register to be notified for a lower price or the price you want to pay and be notified by email if one of their partners meets your needs. No tricks, try just a great service! I have no connection to Spadout. Other places to shop on-line but Spadout searches most of these include: Sierra Trading Post – lowest prices on first, seconds and closeouts Steep and Cheap – Incredible deals that last only a few minutes REI Outlet – deals on already great prices Backcountry – full line on-line retailer with good review feature Moosejaw – full line on-line retailer and this site has a real attitude Campmor – full line on-line retailer for new gear at a discount OMC Gear – full line on-line retailer with good phone service TravelCountry – end of season deal spets Books for Inspiration The Ledge: A story of resilience and courage by my friend Jim Davidson. Trapped on Rainier in a crevasse, his partner dying … the story reveals what humans can do. Annanpurna: Maurice Herzog told the story of this moment in mountaineering history first person from his hospital bed. The first summit in 1950 of arguably the world’s most dangerous mountain is a must for every climbing library. 7 Summits: A reference book for climbing the 7 Summits by a world authority. Mike Hamill has climbed the 7 over four times and some as many as 20. This book provides all the information you need to start your planning – even if you don’t have a plan yet. The Time Has Come: Ger McDonald made history being the first Irish to summit K2 but it cost him his life. This biography tells us about his remarkable life and the drama of that day in August 2008. DVDs, Ebooks for that cold winter night Touching the Void: Probably the climbing movie ever. The story of Joe Simpson’s amazing survival after falling into a crevasse when partner Simon Yates cut his rope. Everest IMAX: The historic story of the 1996 disaster where 8 people died on a single day. The DVD tells the story from climber adn filmmaker David Breashaers viewpoint along with legend Ed Viesturs. This is the most popular IMAX film in history. Everest-High Expectations The story of two Canadian climbers trying put a new route up the world’s highest peak, the West Ridge from Tibet to the Hornbein Couloir. Told by summiteers Pat Morrow (1982) and Sharon Wood (1986), this is a unique way of story telling using the ebook format with 150 color photos, maps, archival video and audio recordings. Organizations that are deserving of your gift of a membership or a donation American Alpine Club: The premier US climbing organization where your membership also s you an insurance policy while supporting the climber community. Nature Conservancy: Protecting ecologically important lands and waters for nature and people. British Mountaineering Council: The largest climbing organization in the UK. Big City Mountaineers: Bring the gift of the outdoors to urban youth Safety for your loved one SPOT: let your family know you are safe when away from cell coverage. Also send an SOS. $120 Avalung: Allows an avalanche victim to breathe fresh air directly from the snowpack $130 Bivy: Emergency shelter when you need it $160 Stocking Suffers are everyone favorite! Kahtoola: When traction is needed for hiking or running but crampons are overkill $60 Feathered Friends Booties: Solves the cold feet plus camp life problem with one warm slip on. $90 Honey Stinger: Natural honey based gel, waffles and chews that give you a boost naturally. I love the strawberry gel and the orange chews. $1.35 each Inexpensive Gear at a low price, and great quality Kinco Gloves: an incredible value for climbers, skiers or anyone who needs hand protection from harsh conditions. $19 Black Diamond Equipment Cosmo LED Headlamp: A must have in your pack for those emergences. Lightweight but big light in a small package. at a great price at Sierra trading Post $21 REI Socks: Durable, comfortable socks at a reasonable price $11 Going Big with a Big Price, and Top Quality The First Ascent Katabatic tent is the latest generation of serous expedition shelter. A three person, four-season expedition tent that took several years to design and prove is now available. Perfect for an expedition base camp $600 Mountain Hardwear has broken the mold with this 850 down filled jacket, the Ghost Whisperer™ Hooded Down Jacket that only weighs 7 ounces! Almost too light to be noticed, until you need it. $300 The Black Diamond Cobras ice axes have an intently loyal following for a reason. Perfect weight, lightweight yet rock solid construction and style to boot. what’s not to love! $680 pair For your Children Make a contribution to Alzheimer’s. This is a devastating disease with no cure with caregivers being the silent victims. Make a difference this holiday season by learning the 10 warning signs and making a donation
Communicating from Everest – 2012 Update
I receive many questions on how I did my live dispatches for the 7 Summits so I put together this short tutorial for anyone wanting to communicate during an expedition from anywhere on our planet. While staying in touch is mandatory and part of an expedition for me, some people want to get away from it all and escape the modern noise that comes with 24 by 7 communications. If that is your case, then take a sat phone for safety but don’t use it unless there is an emergency! Tell everyone that no news is good news and you will see them when you get home. And enjoy your time off the grid For everyone else, online here are several basic ways to keeps friends and family informed while you are on an expedition. Call a Friend: Call a friend who passes it along or transcribes your conversation and posts on your Facebook page or blog Email an update to a friend who forwards it, posts on Facebook or cuts and pastes it to your blog Do it Yourself: Phone in a voicemail through a service that posts it directly to your blog Send an email that automatically posts to your WordPress Blog Write a post and upload it using the Internet along with pictures and/or videos directly to your blog There are many ways to do this communication but I will cover what I have been doing for over 10 years. I have learned a lot and stick with what works – for me. I do all the programming but I am not THAT technical. There are consultants who you can hire at $150 an hour to do the work for you. I started with “Call a Friend” (my wife managed the transcription much to her chagrin) but soon switched to a fully automated system. The minimum setup you need is a phone, either satellite or cell depending on where you go and what service is available. For more sophisticated and independent postings you need to add a computer of some type, a digital camera and an Internet connection. This will enable you to connect with software that is linked to a website which may include a Blog, WordPress for example. If this sounds confusing, it is and it is not. So let’s break it down. Websites The first decision to make is where do you want followers to follow you – Facebook, Twitter, your own Blog or a dedicated website – or a combination of all of these. Also, is this a one time event or something you want to build over time. For a one time expedition, using Facebook is easy but limited over what you can control and present. A dedicated Blog, WordPress or Blogger for example, gives you significant control over how you present your information plus you can add links and pages for more information, causes or other sites. A dedicated website is the choice if you want full control over look and feel to build a long term destination for family and friends to follow your adventures for years to come. But all this comes with a bit more work. If this is all too much, there is a one stop shop approach for dispatches coming up. Don’t get overwhelmed with all these choices, it is actually much simpler than you think. COMMUNICATIONS This is the crux of your dispatch plan. You have two basic choices: Phones or Bgans. Again, one step at a time. For phones, there are cell phones and/or satellite phones using networks from Iridium or Thuraya depending on where you are climbing. A combination of phones sometimes might be in order. Iridium vs Thuraya Satellite Phones I always suggest bringing a sat phone since cell service is not reliable in remote mountain areas even though it may be in the local mountain gateway city. I feel there are only two satellite systems to consider: Thuraya which is for Asia, Africa and Europe and Iridium for North and South America, the oceans and the poles. Thuraya is the choice for data if you are climbing in their coverage area (which includes Everest) because once you lock onto a satellite you do not usually lose it whereas with Iridium you are switched between satellites as they move across your view and in my experience, you will lose the data connection during each switch most of the time, even though they tell you it will switch seamlessly. This lost connection limits your data uploads to a short few minutes preventing a dispatch with several images. If you lose your connection you must restart the upload process meaning lost time, money and sat time. The only time my Iridium connection was rock solid was on Kosciouszko’s summit where I had a 100% clear sky and unlimited visibility. Even in Antarctica, I could only connect for 4 minute periods before losing my data connection. To state the obvious, most mountainous areas rarely have unobstructed views of the sky, duh. Thuraya can be less expensive than Iridium on a per minute basis by almost 50% depending on your location. For example calls to the US from Nepal cost US$0.90 a minute but from China or Pakistan it goes up to US$1.90 per minute using their new NOVO SIM. The NOVO SIM is new for Thuraya and now automatically changes rates based on your GPS location eliminating their prior ECO and Prepaid SIMS. If you in bulk, say 500, 1000 or 2500 minutes/units, you can gets 30% discount lowering the per minute costs to US$0.63 or USD$1.33. Iridium is a flat US$1.30 per minute from anywhere in the world. It might be less expensive over the long run to your satellite phone instead of renting it depending on how many trips you plan and how many minutes you will use. Usually renting a phone implies more expensive minutes but not always so shop around. Sat phones range from $800 to $1800 and rentals around
Gifts for the Climber in your Life
Looking for that perfect gift for your climber? Here are some ideas based on my 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything this past year: Free!: Take walk with your climber and ask him/her why they love the mountains. Under $10 Black Diamond Nitron Carabiner: strong, > solid and easy to clip on and off the life lines. I used these exclusively on Everest and Denali Under $20: The Ledge: A story of resilience and courage by my friend Jim Davidson. Trapped on Rainier in a crevasse, his partner dying … the story reveals what humans can do. Under $25 Buff: Keeps your neck and face warm but does not feel stifling. A must have for any serious cold weather climber Under $50 Black Diamond Storm Headlamp: Latest generation with long battery life AND outstanding brightness – the holy grail of headlamps Under $100 Icebreaker Merino Top: you got me at merino wool – soft and stink free. This top with neck zip is the way to go. Under $150 Patagonia R1 Hoody: An almost perfect mid layer with an almost perfect hood that zips up like a Buff Under $200 Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody: Light and warm without the bulk. When combined with the proper layers this jacket can go to the summit in extreme conditions. Under $250 Mountain Hardwear South Col Pack: My new goto pack for Everest. Comfortable, and well built. And if you need more space look at the huge BMG version Priceless Make a contribution to Alzheimer’s. This is a devastating disease with no cure with caregivers being the silent victims. Make a difference this holiday season by learning the 10 warning signs and making a donation
7 Summits Gear Review
Climbing 8 big mountains in 11 months required many things but proper gear was a must. In this post, I will review what I used, what worked, no what didn’t; taking it a layer at a time. To review, I did 8 climbs with 7 summits in 11 months. They were: Vinson (Antarctica), Aconcagua (South America), Everest (Asia), Denali to 17K when stopped by weather (North America), Elbrus-North (Europe), Kilimanjaro (Africa), Carstensz Pyramid (Oceania), Kosciuszko (Oceania). I will refer to the mountains as coldest: (Vinson, Denali and Everest) and warmest (Kilimanjaro, Carstensz and Kosciuszko) with Aconcagua and Elbrus in the middle. I am not a sponsored climber by an outdoor company and bought the majority of my gear with my own money with a few exceptions I note. CLOTHING Base Layer – body and feet I love merino wool and this year validated my confidence. I wore the same First Ascent (FA) top and bottom base layer on every climb – one pair without change. Even after 6 weeks up and down Everest, it never stank, felt clean and did what a base layer should do. While FA worked well, any merino wool base layer is a good . I did use Patagonia polyester/spandex blend briefs while trekking and low on climbs and switched on summit pushes to a heavier Cloudveil wool/spandex brief for extra warmth. As for socks, I bought the cheapest pair of merino wool socks from REI. I used the same four pairs for all eight climbs. I always kept a pair in reserve for my summit night. Also I used a pair of somewhat thick merino socks for lounging in the tent and especially cold nights in my sleeping bag. They never went into a boot. As much I love my merino wool, I have a absolute favorite I have worn for years, the Mountain Hardwear Power stretch suit. It is made from Polartec and is warm, protects from wind pushing through layers and very comfortable as a one piece suit (with conveniently placed zippers front and back!). A life saver on the extreme days. I wore it on all the ‘cold’ climbs for summit night and always above C2 on Everest. Head, Hands and Eyes First on the head covering, it is critical to note that every, and I mean every, jacket I own has a hood. It is a critical part of my overall system so when it gets windy or cold, I pull it up. I also wore a wool knit cap I bought 10 years ago as my primary skull hat. It is simple and effective. I took a ball cap for full sun days but only occasionally used it. I carried a full balaclava but again almost never used it, even on the Everest summit push. I used a thin Buff and it was a critical item keeping my neck and face warm but allowing easy ventilation. A must have on every climb. I wore several thin pairs of running gloves that wore through on every climb but protected my hands from excessive sun on the treks to base camp. My go-to gloves were from Mountain Hardwear (MH), where I had a pro deal. I used their Torsion gloves as my primary, mild weather layer and on Carstensz where the rock was razor sharp. As I gained altitude or the weather closed in I used the MH Medusa full gauntlet gloves with an incredible removable fleece liner. I user the liner more often than any other glove. But when it got cold, I pulled the Medusa’s on and was never cold. On Everest I used my Black Diamond (BD) Mercury Mitts with the MH liner. I could hold my ascender and clip in and out of the fixed ropes just fine. And my hands never got cold even in -20F temps at 40 mph winds. I did use chemical hand warmers from Grabber on Vinson, Denali and Everest – they worked well but not as long as advertised. Eye protection was simple, I used a pair supplied to me from Julbo, the Explorers. They were comfortable, and protected my eyes in all conditions from blizzards to bright sunny day. I liked the integrated strap for a tight fit in windy conditions. While I wore goggles on Everest, I could have used the Explorers from base camp to summit and back. The lenses did fog and freeze up on Vinson. I used the fashionable Beko nose guard on Denali. Outer Layers Bottoms For the treks, including in and out on Everest and the warm climbs, I used the MH Matterhorn, zip-off thin nylon pants. On occasion I wore my base layer bottoms under these on chilly days. High on all the mountains, including Everest, I wore my Patagonia Guide Pants. They are lined and have a wind proof outer shell (polyester/spandex). My legs were never cold even in Antarctica when the temps were -30F at times. I appreciated the suspenders as I lost weight. Extremely satisfied with these pants. I almost always carried my emergency layer of the Arcteryx full Gortex Bibs on the coldest climbs. They serve as my bomber layer in extreme conditions – wind and water proof. I never used them on any climb, except Aconcagua, but they have saved my bacon several times in harsh conditions. I only experienced rain twice: Kili and Carstensz. Both times the Patagonia Rain Shadow jacket and pant were perfect – breathed well and kept me dry. I packed the MH Chugach pant for the coldest weather climbs (Vinson, Denali, Everest) and use them as a base camp lounging layer. They were warm and comfortable and added another layer if I ever got cold in my sleeping bag. Tops and Shells I always started with a merino wool (Ibex) as my shirt. If it was cold, I started with the wool base layer (FA). If I was a bit chilly due to wind, I wore my Marmot Wind Shirt. It weighs