By Alan Arnette12 min read

Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 13: First Summits

The first summiteers on Everest marked the beginning of the climbing rush. The rope fixers summited a few days ago, and over thirty-five climbers summited today.  Two climbers added to their summit collections to extend their records. Teams arrived at up base camp on the Tibet side, while a respected Sherpa sadly lost his life on Makalu. We’re now entering the summit phase of the spring climbing season.

Each weekend during the season, I’ll post a “Weekend Update” summarizing the main stories from the past week and what to expect next.

Big Picture

With the ropes in on both sides of Everest to the summit, teams are on their summit push, at least on the Nepal side. Ascent Himalaya, CTSS and IMG are at the South Col while others, like AAI, descend from C2 to EBC to wait for the next weather window.

Alpenglow, Climbalaya and Furtenbach Adventures have arrived at the Chinese Base camp on the Tibet side. Some teams announced that they are targeting the summit on May 28th.

Lukas Furtenbach told me that the North Side will have around 50 climbers, substantially less than forecasted earlier, as China did not allow foreigners into Tibet until May 7th.

Michael Fagin of Everest Weather sees good contains and no serious cyclone threat in the Bay of Bengal. These storms form in May, creating serious havoc in the Himalayas:

We are not seeing any big storms or cyclones forming in the bay through at least May 21.  A few weak areas of low-pressure form in the bay over the next 10 days, but no indication of any of these areas of low pressure that develop into a cyclone. The winds start looking good on May 19. 

Last Week and Today

Ukrainian climber Valentyn Sypavin, 41, became the first foreigner to summit Everest this spring. He climbed with Sanu Sherpa, 49, who in 2022 became the first climber in the world to summit all fourteen 8000ers twice. Brit Kenton Cool, 50, got his non-Sherpa record 18th summit climbing with Dorji Gyaljen Sherpa, who got his 22nd summit. And Kami Rita Sherpa, 54, bagged his 29th time.

Kami Rita led a large group from Seven Summits Treks that included seven foreigners supported by thirteen Sherpas or a client-to-support ratio of 1:1.8:

1. Kami Rita Sherpa 🇳🇵(29th Ascent)

2. Kia Noosh Ravanfar 🇺🇸
3. Michael Andrew Arnstein 🇺🇸
4. Lucia Janicova 🇸🇰 (1st Slovak woman to climb Everest)
5. Landry James Warnez 🇨🇦
6. Jordan Yogendra Chhetri 🇬🇧
7. Maxut Zhumayev 🇰🇿
8. Anar Burasheva 🇰🇿

9. Pasang Dukpa Sherpa 🇳🇵
10. Lakpa Thendu Sherpa 🇳🇵
11. Dharche Bhote🇳🇵
12. Chhedar Bhote 🇳🇵
13. Rinjin Bhote 🇳🇵
14. Rima Rinje Sherpa 🇳🇵
15. Gelje Sherpa 🇳🇵
16. Phuri Sherpa 🇳🇵
17. Dawa Phinjo Lama Bhote 🇳🇵(IFMGA Guide)
18. Angi Bhote 🇳🇵
19. Chhiring Nuppa Bhote 🇳🇵
20. Dawa Finjhok Sherpa 🇳🇵

8K Expeditions put two on top:

1. Ms. Purnima Shrestha 🇳🇵 (8/14)
2. Mr. Phura Temba Sherpa
Imagine Nepal saw nine international climbers supported by ten Sherpa guides on top:

International Climbers:

  1. Ms Guan, Jing (China)
  2. Mr Jin, Haihang (China)
  3. Ms Che,n Siya (China)
  4. Mr Qi, Wei (China)
  5. Mr Su, Jiangfa (China)
  6. Ms Hong, Danhong (China)
  7. Mr Jason Daniel Long (Australia)
  8. Ms Maria Alexandra Danila (Romania)
  9. Mr Timothy Miles Kington (United Kingdom)

Sherpa:

  1. Mr Dawa Tenzing Sherpa
  2. Mr Fur Galjen Sherpa
  3. Mr Finjo Dorjee Sherpa
  4. Mr Lakpa Sherpa
  5. Mr Phurba Gyaljen Sherpa
  6. Mr Kami Sherpa
  7. Mr Pasang Ngima Sherpa
  8. Mr Pema Chhiri Sherpa
  9. Mr Angdu Sherpa
  10. Mr Jangbu Sherpa

Casualties and Injuries

Seven Summits Treks’ Sherpa, Lakpa Tenji Sherpa, 53, told teammates he wasn’t feeling well and soon died on his descent from Makalu. Many cited him for his kind nature. Jamie McGuiness told me, “He was kind, caring, genuine, and great to work with. He was also a gentleman, and it was for good reason when he scolded us.

Everest ER has seen 507 patients until today. Out of these, 80 are non-Nepali, and the rest are Nepali patients. They saw 8 patients with HAPE, 1 HACE patient and many AMS. Recently, most patients have had a dry cough, which is most likely a Khumbu cough. We also saw a few musculoskeletal injuries and lots of GERD/Gastritis.

Next Week

Most likely, those teams are on their push and already at C3 and soon reaching the South Col will go for it and summit early Monday morning, May 14th. Most forecasts call for a short wind spike on May 15th and 16th afternoons, but it will probably not be enough to impact strong teams.

IMG reported in that the winds were a bit high, but they were on their summit push looking to top out early Monday morning, May 14th or 15th:

The team had a smooth trip up to Camp 4 today, climbing up through the Yellow Band and the upper part of the Lhotse Face. Porter reports that the weather was not perfect, that the team was in a snow squall for several hours and that it was quite blustery when they arrived.  However, the sun emerged, the wind calmed down during the afternoon, and everyone was doing well.  The Everest climbers have departed the South Col, and the Lhotse team will leave in a few hours.  Fingers crossed for tomorrow!

Other 800ers

Adrian Hayes and the rest of the SST team turned back on Kangchenguga, citing “too much snow and avalanche risk.” But they are ready to give it another go, ” What happened last night was we were beaten back by very deep snow and very strong winds. The good news is that most are on for the second window.”

While not an 8000ers, Nuptse makes up the “Triple Crown,” defining the horseshoe Western Cwm. Nuptse to the south, Lhotse, East and Everest is North. Garrett Madison is making a habit of putting people on Nuptse’s summit. He told me, “Today our climbers Cacho Beiza (guide) and climber Casey Diener, along with 4 of our Sherpa team (Dawa Tenji, Kam Dorji, Chhetan, Mingmar) reached the summit of Nuptse with perfect conditions.” He also had a summit in 2023. Garrett is one of the only operators offering the Triple to his clients.

Nepal Permit Update

The Ministry of Tourism removed the permit data from their website, but other outlets report  414 foreigner permits consisting of 75 female and 339 male clients across 41 teams.  This is the last 2024 tally for the 8000ers the MoT posted:

8000erTeamsMale ClientsFemale ClientsTotal
Annapurna I3141125
Cho Oyu1101
Dhaulagiri220828
Everest3732070390
Kanchenjunga3201131
Lhotse1210723130
Makalu4401757
Manaslu1202
TOTALS62522140662

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

While teams are starting to summit, many others remain at base camp, waiting their turn. It’s a stressful time.

Anticipation

You have been hearing about the infamous summit window for years. In the last few days, that is all you’ve discussed. At breakfast this morning, the table talk went like this. “So, do you believe the forecast?” you throw out to the table at large. “You mean the one that said we would have clear skies and no winds the day the cyclone hit us? The skeptic in the group responded. “Yeah, that one.” You continue undeterred. “You know, if it’s right, we leave tomorrow or the day after for our summit push.” The table gets quiet as each person looks into their soupy porridge. There is no need for a lot of words. This is why you are here. Each person is lost in their private world for the next few bites.

You’ve heard the talk from the lead guide about being ready at a moment’s notice as the weather forecast changes quickly. She took joy in telling the story of a few years ago when they got an update at 9:00 pm Everest time from the States, which was 11:45 minutes earlier. What’s up with the 15-minute thing? The story goes that everyone had gone to their tents after being told the weather was horrible up high and there would be no summit push for at least a week. Each climber had done their nightly routine and crawled into their sleeping bags with their toes warmed by a Nalgene filled with hot water. They had completed their last crocodile roll in their sleeping bag around 10 when, like Paul Revere, the lead guide came urgently to the member tent area shouting. “Hey everyone, if you want to go to the summit, this is your chance. Pack your summit pack and be ready to leave base camp at 2.” Wow, talk about whiplash!

Well, you were ready. Hell, you’ve been ready for the past three years as you saved money, put off big purchases, trained on lesser peaks and pushed hard to get your body in shape. In the last few weeks, it has all come together. Yeah, the first climb to Camp 1 was slow. You thought a few times that you weren’t up for this, but you pushed on. The next trip up to Camp 2 was better, but then that damned Lhotse Face. Lucky you, it was hard blue ice this year, no snow for steps to be kicked into. It seems like it took forever to get to lower C3. But you did it. Your team didn’t sleep there like others before you. The new thinking is you don’t have to punish your body with that horrible night at 23,000 feet to acclimatize. You only need to get to 7,000 meters, have a snack and return to C2. Good God, you hope they are right.

Leaving breakfast early, you skipped the regular chat group for some alone time. Sitting crossed-legged in your tent, you look at your summit gear spread out on the tent floor. You get that 1,000-yard stare in your eyes as you begin to visualize the next few days. The last climb through the creaky Khumbu Icefall, the hot Western Cwm, up the steep Lhotse Face, then … well you don’t know. You only know what you’ve read and been told. Leave C3 before dawn, continue up the Face and turn left towards the Yellow Band. Clipped into the fixed ropes, scale the limestone rock and then to the base of the Geneva Spur and scramble over exposed rock to the South Col. Spend a few hours resting on Os then leave just after dark. Up the pyramid to the Balcony, the Southeast Ridge and South Summit, the Traverse, whatever is left of the Hillary Step and on, and on to the top of the world. You know the music, but do you know the words? Can you sing the song? Can you keep up with the band? Can you …

All of a sudden your frozen stare locks onto a picture you placed in the tent mesh pocket three weeks ago when you arrived. You focus carefully on the faces. You look into their eyes, half expecting them to say something. You listen carefully, and then you hear a voice. “I love you. We believe in you. We will be with you each step. You are where you should be. I believe.” Locked into the moment, you give yourself permission to go somewhere else. The change of scenery feels good. Your breathing is calm, controlled. You are at peace.

Each item on the tent floor has its own place in your pack. You slowly and methodically organize your kit. There is something comforting about the familiarity of this routine. You’ve done this many times as you trained for Everest. Some of the gear, you pick up and cradle in your palms. Yes, this will keep me safe. And you put it in the same place as before. Eventually, the floor is clear, and the pack is full.

Rolling over onto your unzipped down sleeping bag, you lie down and look at the ceiling. Closing your eyes, you hear the sounds of base camp, Everest Base Camp. The hiss of a gas stove, the chatter of teammates still talking trash, Sherpa or Nepalese language, you still have a hard time telling the difference, but enjoy the cadence, the strength and confidence in their conversation. Off in the distance, the gentle tone of a yak bell. You know the huge furry beast is probably nodding off. The sounds of camp act like a soft sleeping pill as you go to that place between sleep and awake.

Knowing your time will come soon, you take one more breath and go to that place of sleep. Soon, you will be climbing Mount Everest.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Here’s the video podcast version of this weekend’s update:

83 views

You can listen to #everest2024 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, YouTube, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Previous Everest 2024 Season Coverage Posts

 Everyday Everest

A 16-part podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season.

Based on my Fictional 2020 Virtual Everest series, I posted a twenty-minute updated episode a few times a week throughout this season. Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push. The story’s protagonist, Harper, sets the tone for the story when she tells her husband, Marc, “Honey, I’m going to climb Everest.”

You can listen to Everyday Everest on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, YouTube, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Previous Everyday Everest Episodes

Why this coverage?

I like to use these weekend updates to remind my readers that I’m just one guy who loves climbing. With 38 serious climbing expeditions, including four Everest trips under my belt and a summit in 2011, I use my site to share those experiences, demystify Everest each year and bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease. My mom, Ida Arnette, died from this disease in 2009, as have four of my aunts. It was a heartbreaking experience that I hope no other family will go through; thus, I asked for donations to non-profits, which 100% goes to them and nothing ever to me.
donate to Alzheimers

Ida Arnette 1926-2009

Preparing for Everest is more than Training

There are five Summit Coach  clients on Everest in 2024

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If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers worldwide achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 30 years of high-altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive. Please see our prices and services on the Summit Coach website.

Everest Season Special through May 31, 2024: 10% discount on all plans.    Mention Everest 2024

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2 thoughts on “Everest 2024: Weekend Update May 13: First Summits”

  1. There’s only one official list and it’s managed through the Ministry of Tourism. The Himalayan Database uses that data to generate reports like you are looking for. It will be in a few months, maybe November at the earliest.

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