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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Jan 042017

Raising Prayer Flags over Everest Base CampRaising Prayer Flags over Everest Base CampAlan Arnette’s Everest 2017 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I am home in Colorado this season after a climbing accident in February that stopped me from a planned Dhaulagiri climb this spring.

A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits.

HEADLINE: Normal Season, 1 Incident, Route Fixed to 8000m

Latest News: 25 April 2017 (Everest time: GMT+5:45)

  • Arun Treks Sherpa injured by falling ice
  • Fixed rope to South Col, 8000 meters
  • Fixed rope to 8300 meters on North

Previous Key Headlines

  • Ueli Steck made solo climb from C2 to West Ridge to check conditions
  • Teams at Camp 2 in the Western Cwm
  • Teams at Advanced Base Camp and North Col on North side
  • EverestER has seen over 100 patients and had facilitated several heli evacuation

Season headlines

  • Gear flown into Western Cwm, eliminating hundreds of Sherpa carries
  • Look for ropes to the summit by 1 May
  • Look for foreigners to begin to summit 1 May
  • Nepal Government expecting 500 Foreigners. Add in the same # of Sherpas, that’s over 1,000 South climbers!
  • 250 climbers from 28 countries have Everest permits
  • 70 used their 2015 extended permit
  • Almost $2 million in permit fees already collected by Nepal


South Col Route (map)

locations are for majority of team, individuals may be higher or lower

Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides)
C4 S.Col
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Facebook for AC TwitterforAC Adventure Consultants (10/5)  X H
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global (8) X H
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (7/3) X
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Benegas Brothers X
Facebook for IMG Himex X
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic Team 1 (14/2) X
 Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic Team 2 (14/2) X H
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid (~8/3) X
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Gurka (7) X
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Madison Mountaineering (11/5) X X
Facebook for IMG Mountain Madness (5/2) w/MT  X
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Mountain Trip (5/2) w/MM X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb  (15/1) X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Seven Summits Treks (79++) X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale (2/1) X

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

locations are for majority of team, individuals may be higher or lower

TEAMS (clients/western guides)
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow (4/3) X
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Adventure Peaks (8/1) X
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions (7/1) X
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Furtenbach Adventures (8/1) X
Facebook for SC Iowans for Everest X
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Mountain Expeditions (1/1) X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (11/1) X
Facebook for SC Transcend Adventures (23/1) X
Facebook for SC 7 Summits Club D
T/D=Trek/Driving to BC, K=Kathmandu, La=Lhasa, Lo=Lobuche, e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public websites. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

Other Teams

Not providing enough updates to track or comment

 Facebook for AT Ascent Himalayas
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF  Dreamers Destination
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Asian Trekking Eco Teams
Himalayan Guides
Indian Army
Indian ONGC

Everest Weather
Base Camp Summit
not intended to replace professional forecasts for critical climbing decisions

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  22 Responses to “Announcement: Everest 2017: Team Locations and Headlines”

  1. Hi Alan,

    thank you for your coverage and wonderful writing.I stumbled over a potentially interesting addition to your team-coverage when I met the organiser of below expedition by chance:

    “Clearskies Expedition to Mt. Everest”
    They are going for the summit from the south and without oxygen or high-altitude porters in alpine style.

    Maybe this is an interesting addition to your team coverage?

    There are several blogs about this expedition.
    Unfortunately I think most if not all the coverage is in german.
    I do not provide a direct link, since i do not know if you want this on your site.

    I hope that you find this interesting and look forward to read a lot more from your site.

    Thank you.


  2. Looking forward to your daily updates.

  3. Hi Alan,what is the difference between IMG classic and hybrid teams?
    Wishing you a speedy recovery 🙂

    • Sandra, IMG Classic has no western guides, only Sherpa Guides in a 1:1 with western clients for $44,000 per climber. The hybrid adds several western guides along with the personal Sherpas for the clients at $59,000 per climber. I summited Everest in 2011 on their Classic program with Kami Sherpa.

      Thanks I’m healing well!

  4. Hi Alan!!
    Glad to see you are feeling a little better! We’re back!!!! Some of the freshman at Wauseon High School are once again reading “Into Thin Air” We haven’t started yet, but eagerly waiting and eagerly looking forward to your wonderful coverage of Everest. Once again, I really do have to thank you! By following your coverage, you have truly made the words literally leap from the page, into real time and real coverage!!! Words can’t begin to show how much you have done for some of these students! Your first batch ( the one’s who were reading when I first made contact with you ) of freshman Wauseon Indians graduated last year. Sure doesn’t seem that long. Some of the students who really didn’t enjoy school very much were very nostalgic about our Into Thin Air adventure with you. Thanks Again !!! AND, Take Care!

    Oh hey, and by the way, our winter sport teams have had a great year – Boys Varsity Basketball 2nd Place at State! Boys Varsity Wrestling – 3rd place at state!!!Go Indians!!!
    Sue Simmons

    • Thank you Susan. I appreciate you writing. I hope the students see the positive in climbing and not the negative as some seem to take away from the books designed to sensationalize the experience and relationships.

  5. Hi Alan,
    Just stumbled across your website as I have become obsessed with all things Everest. I am enjoying your site and will be following the 2017 climbing season. I’ve signed up for email. And I just made a donation to Cure for Alzheimer fund. Thank you for being you and doing what you are doing.

    • Thank you so much Diana!! I do what I do on behalf of Alzheimer’s research and caregiver support so your donation made my day. Thank you. Hoping for a positive experience throughout this season for climbers on both sides.

  6. Please add me to your email list. I have been following your blog for over 3 years and now watch daily as i know it is almost time. Thank you for your updates.

    • I added you but you can add or delete your name from the mailing list using the form on the lower right side of this page. Thanks.

    • Thank you Alan. i find every year i am drawn to everest waiting in march to see if everyone summits and in good shape. I am fascinated by the beauty of nepal. To old to climb with asthma to. So i can live through your posts. Thank you for doing such a great job reporting
      Hope you heal fast

  7. Please add me to your new posts’ email list, also. Anticipations are certainly building.
    Thanks so much!

  8. I’d love to be on the email list, too, please!

  9. I would like to be added on the email list

  10. Very excited for the 2017 season. My family is already rollin their eyes and asking why this Everest obsession?