Uncle Bud’s Hut: A Colorado Exclusive
Colorado is quite fortunate that the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association builds and maintains a series of high mountain huts open to everyone. For a small fee of $30 a night you get access to a warm hut fully stocked with dishes, stoves, fuel plus beds and pillows. All you have to provide is food, sleeping bags and a little work to build a fire to melt snow for water. Click this link for more information on the huts. On December 13 and 14, I joined a group of friends for a weekend at Uncle Buds Hut near Leadville Colorado. We snow showed or skied the 6 miles to the hut located at 11,300’. It has unparalleled views of the five Mt Massive 14,000’ Peaks. Everyone brought a dish and we cooked dinner before have a ton of fun exchanging white elephant Christmas gifts. Then we adjourned to the fire pit to close out the evening. This is the 13th year many have shared in this holiday event and I hope to join them for many more. Bud winter The hut was built as a memorial to 10th Mountain Division veteran Bud winter (1925-1945), who was killed in action in Italy during World War II, and was one of 33 soldiers who completed the legendary “trooper traverse” winter ski crossing from Leadville to Aspen in February of 1944. Funds for the hut were given by Bud’s brother, Dr. Fred winter. His sister Laura contributed the proceeds from her poetry book Laura’s Lines. History 10th Mountain is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization that manages a system of 34 backcountry huts in the Colorado Rocky Mountains, connected by 350 miles of suggested routes. They provide a unique opportunity for backcountry skiing, mountain biking, or hiking while staying in safe, comfortable shelter. The name honors the men of 10th Mountain Division of the U.S. Army, who trained during World War II at Camp Hale in central Colorado. Hut visitors share the special spirit of these individuals, especially their pursuit of excellence, self reliance, and love of the outdoors. This is a video from our weekend Climb On! Memories are Everything Alan
2013 Gifts for Climbers
Looking for that perfect gift for your climber or yourself ? This post might give you some ideas. You don’t have to spend a lot to make your climber happy! If you have time and want the absolute lowest price, use the website Spadout. Do a search for your product and register to be notified for a lower price or the price you want to pay and be notified by email if one of their partners meets your needs. No tricks, just a great service! Another new price shopping service is Active Junky. They work with online retailers to show products at the lowest price. If you that product after clicking from the Active Junky site you get that item or anything else even if it is on or with a coupon a cash rebate up to 15% of the price paid from Active Junky. Low prices with cash back! Both Spadout and Active Junky work with many of these on-line sellers: Sierra Trading Post – lowest prices on first, seconds and closeouts Steep and Cheap – Incredible deals that last only a few minutes REI Outlet – deals on already great prices Backcountry – full line on-line retailer with good review feature Moosejaw – full line on-line retailer and this site has a real attitude Campmor – full line on-line retailer for new gear at a discount OMC Gear – full line on-line retailer with good phone service TravelCountry – end of season deal spets I have no connection to Spadout, Active Junkie or any of these outlets. Shop On! Climbing Apps for your Smartphone MotionX GPS $2: turn your smartphone into a GPS Peak Finder $4: this app will tell you what you are seeing 14ers $0: For Colorado climbers. The 14ers routes, trailhead info and more Under $30 Honey Stinger Fruit Smoothie $1.39 – organic, honey based power gel that gets you going Reel Rock DVD $30 – Rock out with some of the climbers caught on film Aeropress Coffee Maker$30 – Great coffee in the wilderness. See how one climber loves this system. Cameras for Climbing Canon PowerShot SX280 HS $330 – 12mp, 20X zoom plus video. Fits in your pocket. I used Powershots for my 7 Summits climbs. Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS25 $300 – 16mp, 10x zoom with video. A solid climbing camera that fits in your pocket Canon G16 $500 – the G8 was my goto climbing camera for years. G16 is the latest with great pictures with full control and features. A bit big but worth the weight. Snow and Ice Petzel GRIGRI 2 belay device $100 – keep your partner on belay with the improved GriGri 2. Used by advanced climbers.See video Black Diamond Momentum $45 – comfort and safety. One of the values out there Julbo Explorer Sunglasses $120 – Protects eyes from damaging UV plus flying ice. I own these. Rock Black Diamond Half Dome $60: light and strong Pure Grit Chalk Bag $30 – keep hands dry with chalk from this holiday bag Evolve’s Women’s Elektra Rock Shoe $90 – style, comfort and performance Alpine Patagonia Ultralight Down Hoody $350 – Amazingly light at 9oz and warm. If it’s cold, this goes on. I own this. Mountain Hardwear Trinity Softshell Jacket $360 – arguably the softshell – water/wind proof yet really breaths. I own this. Thermarest NeoAir XTherm $150 – unbelievably light, comfortable and warm Over the Top DJI Phantom Aerial UAV Drone Quadcopter for GoPro $480 – capture the action from above for professional results GoPro Hero 3+ $400 – used by amateurs to profs, 12mp wide angle captures it all while on the go Recon Snow2 Heads Up Display $400 – ski like a fighter pilot Organizations American Alpine Club: The premier US climbing organization where your membership also s you an insurance policy while supporting the climber community. Nature Conservancy: Protecting ecologically important lands and waters for nature and people. British Mountaineering Council: The largest climbing organization in the UK. Big City Mountaineers: Bring the gift of the outdoors to urban youth Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Book Review: Climbing the Seven Summits by Mike Hamill
As the holidays approach, medicine this is an idea for a great gift for the climber in your life. The book, Climbing the Seven Summits by Mike Hamill covers all the mountains in an easy to read format with great pictures. Mike is a well known international mountain guide with at least five summits of each of the 7 Summits. He has climbed them all in the course of one year several times, even setting the tenth fastest completion time of 220 days in 2008. I first met Mike on Everest in 2011 as he was guiding another team with International Mountain Guides. The book, a bit over 300 pages, goes into depth on each mountain covering history, preparation, routes and more. Clearly written from an experienced guide’s perspective, the style is informal but rich in details. Many high quality pictures complement the text bringing the reader into the climbs. I caught up with Mike between expeditions to talk about climbing and his book. Q: What lead you to become a mountain guide?A: Since I was a kid I’ve always been inspired by the mountain environment and pushing myself physically and mentally. After college I wasn’t particularly drawn towards any one career path but knew in the short term I wanted to experience the world and climb. I initially fell into guiding looking for summer work on Rainier and then got opportunities to work internationally and quickly realized I could turn my passion into a career. I really enjoy experiencing local cultures and learning what they have to teach me as well as having a definitive goal like a summit to work towards. I’m still very inspired by this and appreciate being able to share my knowledge with members and learn from them as well. Q: You spend months every year guiding, how did you find the time to write Climbing the Seven Summits?A: Writing a book of this magnitude was a bigger challenge than I initially realized. There were countless hours spent at base camps, in tea houses, on planes and at my home in Seattle spent writing, revising, and editing. As you know, there is plenty of down time at base camp on Himalayan expeditions spent resting and acclimatizing in between rotations. Since I’m a terrible card player, I used that time to write the majority of the book. Q: Bass vs. Messner list. You cover this in your book but what is your bottom line on this controversy?A: I get asked this questions often and I did a lot of research on this topic for the Climbing the Seven Summits. I really wanted to come up with an answer for myself and present my ideas for others to make their own decisions. I feel that there is a generally accepted notion of what the seven continents are and that includes Australia and not Australasia or Oceania. The term “continent” was originally used to delineate the social and cultural divisions between Europe, Asia and Africa in the region where those three continents come together. Since this term’s history was defined by social and cultural aspects that were later applied to other land masses, and didn’t refer to a geologic definition, I feel that this is the correct definition of the word “continent.” Of course in many countries around the World people are taught a 5 continent or 6 continent model of the World where the Americas or Europe and Asia are sometimes referred to as one. But, we call it the “Seven Summits” because the term was coined by Americans and Europeans like Bass, Wells, and Messner. A geologists definition of the Seven Summits doesn’t work since Europe and Asia are one land mass. So for me the answer is Kozzie. I respect that people may want to climb harder peaks and choose Carstensz but, where a hard climb lies doesn’t define a continent. If it was only about climbing hard peaks then people might choose to climb K2 and Mt. Kenya but this doesn’t make sense for the Seven Summits. Both Morrow and Messner admit that this is why they chose Carstensz but Messner also climbed Kosciuszko to cover his bases so this indicates that even he didn’t believe that Carstensz was legitimate. Carstensz is an amazing experience and I encourage people to go climb it regardless of whether it’s on the list or not. My goal is to challenge people to think about it and make their own decisions rather than just going along with what others have said or done. Because of this I included both Carstensz and Kosciuszko versions in “Climbing the Seven Summits” so that people would have the information and can make their own call. A: I enjoy all of the regions and climbs for their own uniqueness but I do have some favorites. Vinson Massif for me is such an amazing experience and it still feels like you’re pioneering new terrain, even though there’s a lot more infrastructure now than there was when Bass or Morrow climbed it. It’s a very remote and committing part of the World where you’re overwhelmed by the vastness and untouched nature. It’s truly remarkable that we can go there and there are far fewer people that have summited Vinson then Everest. Going to Antarctica and flying down in the old Russian cargo plane is one of the highlights of my year. I also love getting back on Denali every year. I joke that I go up there every year to prove to myself that I can still work hard. You have to earn that summit in every sense of the word. The weather is bad, there are no beasts of burden like mules or yaks to carry your gear, and the terrain keeps you on your toes at all times. The climbing community on Denali and in Talkeetna keeps me coming back. Q: What is the single mistake people make when climbing the 7 summits?A: I think people underestimate the mountains of the
Staying Healthy on Everest
It is dangerous to use absolute words to describe a situation but I think it is appropriate in the next sentence. Everyone always get sick when climbing Everest. There, I said it. I know guides and those taking your money will say is not true and how they have their cooks prepare every meal, ed even in the teahouses. That they double boil the water, have hand washing stations outside the toilet tent and dining tent, and on and on. So with all that, why is it on every expedition I have ever been on (30+) I have gotten sick, except for one? Well, I think it comes down to this. In spite of everyone’s efforts, climbers live in close proximity sharing almost everything in a foreign environment that exposes their body to new bugs. So, if you accept my premise, what can you do? But wait, it is not only getting physically sick, there is a mental game going on as well. Great, why do we climb again? I am using Everest as the example here but my thoughts apply to any long expedition from Aconcagua, Denali to Kilimanjaro. Now it’s time to get gritty. Physical Health The guides are correct. The hand washing and double boiling do help but I always take a pocket size container of Purell with me and start using it from the time I board the airplane. I frequently wash my hands before each meal and after each, well post meal event, aka poop. I avoid the towel at the wash basin because it quickly becomes a petri dish for bacteria and bugs from your close friends. Air drying is actually . There is a certain etiquette that all teammates should follow. For example, don’t put your water bottle on the dining table given it has probably been on the ground right next to the yak poop. Don’t cough and sneeze into the faces of your mates, poor form. If you are sick, quarantine yourself. Following custom, eat with your right hand, clean with your left. Yeah, I told this would get gritty. You probably have a medicine kit that would rival the Mayo but that doesn’t mean you are a doctor. Take advantage of resources like Everest ER at Base Camp. Pay the $100 for coverage the entire season, if your organizer doesn’t cover it, and rely on their experience and knowledge. It is reported that some bacteria are becoming immune to some antibiotics in the Khumbu so local knowledge is needed. But more to the point, don’t yourself. If you do get sick, don’t fight it. On Everest in 2011, I started vomiting at Camp 2 one night. I steadily lost strength and felt worse by the day. The Docs at Everest Er gave me meds and I consulted with my guides. In the end, I quarantined myself for three days in my tent sleeping almost all the time. But more critically I gave myself permission to get sick and didn’t feel guilty or worry that my climb was over. The bug ran its course. I felt better and went on to summit. Mental health OK, you are taking care of yourself but there is something else going on – your teammates are driving you crazy. More common than you know. When you first meet your teammates, you size them up unconsciously. On large commercial climbs, it is common not to know your teammates until you arrive at the gateway city. At the first meeting, you give them a look see. Do they seem introverted or extroverted. Do they smile, laugh easily or avoid eye contact. On one of my climbs, a teammate wore a full head balaclava the entire expedition and ate every meal by himself. I only saw his face when we said goodbye. He said he was avoiding airborne bugs and sick people. Creepy! Expedition climbing is a compressed environment. You really get to know people – more than want sometimes. You hear about money problems, kid problems, spouse problems. There are those who love to share their daily bowel results with everyone at each meal. Some are trying to summit more than the mountain. It seems everyone is crazy except for you! But the worse are the ones who bring everyone down. “The weather will never get better”, she said over breakfast. Continuing her upbeat report. “We will never summit. In fact, I doubt we will go back up again.” she wines between coughs and wiping the snot from her upper lip. She is miserable and is happily sharing thus making everyone else miserable. Being Social One unique aspect of climbing Everest are the trekkers. Visiting Everest Base Camp is a popular destination for trekkers and for many it is the first time to interact with climbers. Many expeditions will combine trekkers and climbers on their way into EBC on the south side. And some operators will take trekkers to EBC half way through the season. The challenge is how to avoid getting exposed to new bugs without being unfriendly. The operators help the trekkers understand that the climbers are not being rude, just safe. At this point in an expedition, most of the team have been exposed to one another’s contagious bugs and do not want to risk their summit by starting all over with a new batch. The same dilemma presents itself when visiting teahouses down valley in mid expedition. For me, I never went down valley to “touch grass before the summit”, a phrase coined by Anatoli Boukreev. I preferred to rest in the relative isolation and saftey of base camp. Teamwork With everything I have said, you might get the impression the strategy to stay mentally and physically healthy is to avoid all contact. Well, that probably won’t work. Remember the balaclava guy? He got sick just before the summit push. Use common sense. Avoid sick people. Don’t pet dogs and cats no matter how cute they are. Nod your head rather than shake
Getting in Everest Shape
Believe it or not climbers attempting Everest in the spring of 2014 leave home in only 171 days, a little under 6 months. By now they have paid their deposits, are finalizing gear s but most importantly should be in the throes of training. By the way, the definition of throes is “intense or violent pain and struggle, especially accompanying birth, death, or great change.” OK then. There are other aspects to preparing for Everest including developing technical skills, gaining experience at altitude but I’m going to focus on training for this post. When I was training for Everest, I was told “Alan, you better be in the shape of your life!” Well they almost got it right, actually I needed to not only be in the shape of MY life, I needed to be in Everest Shape. With the clear disclaimer that I am not a doctor and everyone should visit their own Doc before entering any kind of Everest training program, let’s me provide some thoughts from my experiences. My personal experiences with Everest have been difficult. I experienced a lung infection that stopped one climb, my body simply refused to acclimatize above 23,000’ on another, and I gave up mentally on my third. The vast majority of Everest climbers have full time jobs, full time families and cannot spend many hours everyday for a year to get in professional shape; so it becomes critical to make every workout count without hurting yourself. However, you must push yourself beyond your perceived limits to be ready. For my fourth attempt and successful summit on Everest, my training mantra became: When you think you have given it your all, you have just started if you want to summit Everest. The ‘Best” Method If you ask 100 Everest climbers you might get 101 different answers on the way to train and I don’t think there is one ‘perfect’ approach. Some climbers will say cycling for 5 to 8 hours in the middle of the night is , others will prefer swimming and then some say weight training will get you there. It is popular today to use CrossFit. But the common thread to all training is pushing yourself without injury and building mental discipline. There is no doubt that an Everest climb requires mental and physical endurance like few other sports. I consistently observe that competitive marathoners, triathletes and cyclists do well. However, all agree that training the mind is equally important as training the body. For my first attempts in high-altitude climbing, I mostly ran and lifted weights. I had a full time job that required extensive traveling so I worked out in hotel gyms and ran stairs. While it was good, it was not nearly enough. In hindsight, I simply never developed the stamina needed to climb Everest. My approach failed to develop the micro-muscles used in real worked conditions, finally, it did little for my metal toughness. I’m not saying running and gym work would not get you in Everest Shape, but it didn’t for me. Real World Training What did work for me was real world activity that mimicked what my body would go through on Everest. In preparation for my 2011 climb of the 7 Summits, I spent 2010 climbing. I took a similar approach this year for my successful summit of the 8000m mountain Manaslu. I am fortunate to live in Colorado, close to 14,000 foot (4000m) mountains aka 14ers. I’ll address alternatives for training in a moment for those living at sea level. In both 2010 and 2013, I set a goal to climb a 14er each week with a 30-40lb (13-18kg) pack. Also, to do at least two shorter hikes with lighter packs each week. I never ran or lifted weights. I climbed in all types of weather and times of day. These climbs and hikes ranged from 3 to 12 hours in duration. My goal was to work on my overall body strength, cardio and most importantly my stamina. I would try to climb at a 1500 feet per hour pace. I also worked on my nutrition and hydration being mindful of the time between breaks and what gels and powders worked for me. I found Honey Stinger products and CamelBak tablets worked for me, but everyone is different and has their favorites. To work on my mental toughness, a traditional problem for me, I would go to my local 14er, Longs Peak, arriving a 1:00AM when the winds were forecast to be high, as in 50 mph (80kph). My goal was to climb as high as I could before getting knocked down by the wind at least three times. I would put on my full 8000m gear (boots, crampons, down suit, mittens, goggles, etc) plus my pack – the same gear I planned on using on Everest or Manaslu – and pushed hard. I did this in January to be exposed to the coldest temps, highest winds and deepest snow. In addition to the mental and physical training, I lost weight and cut out alcohol during the training time. I went on these climbs feeling confident both physically and mentally. I knew my body, the signs of fatigue, and when I could go further. This last point is key. I am convinced I could have gone higher on some climbs where I turned back but didn’t simply because my mind said no. Our bodies are incredibly strong and our reserves deep. However, saying that, it was the right decision on some of these to turn back. What made the difference later was my climbing experience and knowledge of my body. For both my 2011 7 Summits climbs (including Everest) and my recent Manaslu summit, my body performed significantly better than back in 2002. Obviously I was older, 57 for Manaslu. I did not loose weight on that climb and never felt so fatigued that I wanted to turn around. Thus, I believe I have found the training regime for me.
Out of Sight and Mind: Summit Socks (and boots)
As I packed my gear for Manaslu, I looked at my pile of socks. Summit socks, s I need summit socks. Wait you say, are summit socks different than climbing or trekking or any other kind of socks? Glad you asked. By the time you are ready to go for the summit of a big cold mountain like Aconcagua, Denali, Manaslu or Everest, your body is pretty beat up. The training, trekking and acclimatization has taken a toll, especially on your feet. There is not much you can do about it at this point other than putting on a good pair of NEW, dry, clean socks. The key word is new. Each time we wear socks during a climb, they absorb moisture, grit and loose a bit of their padding and bounce. In the end, they don’t quite do the job you need at 8000 meters with crampons attached to your boots in cold snow at 40 below zero in … well you get the idea. I have used socks from a lot of different companies, all claiming to be the . They promote their mixture of wool, nylon, elastic with extra padding here or there. Some come with individual toes, some come without toes at all. And they all come at a big price, $20 or more for a pair of socks. Sock Strategy Socks are actually a bit complicated. I call it my sock strategy. Two thick pairs, two medium pairs, maybe a liner and a thick sock, maybe just one thick? A lot depends on your boot and also how warm or cold your feet get. I think this is highly individual and deserves a lot of experimenting – before you leave home! I have tried all the aforementioned strategies and have settled on using one thick pair. As for my summit socks, I use the same style and thickness so after staring at my Manaslu gear for too long, I rallied and went down to REI for a new pair of summit socks – their merino wool expedition socks for $16.50. Now, sitting in my tent at 7400 meters on Manaslu, I reached into my pack and pulled out my NEW, dry, clean socks. Gently I teased them on – a moment of comfort in a harsh world up high. As I pulled on my 8000 meter boot liners, I could feel the wool against my soles. Once I put the outer boots on and stood up, I could hear my toes laugh out loud in glee. OK, I know this is a bit too much; but seriously they were comfortable and made all the difference in the world and for my mental state. As I climbed that day, my feet felt good – warm and comfy. My conclusion: a new pair of good socks and only wear them one time – on the summit push! You’ll never regret it. Foot Warmers One more comment on protecting your toes. I used the Hotronic foot warmer on Everest and Manaslu with mixed results. The good news was when they worked, they were fantastic. The bad news, on both climbs, I had battery issues. Even after leaving home with a full charge, it is difficult to keep the rechargeable batteries topped off during a long expedition and my battery packs ran out after a short time on both climbs. On Everest, we made a sudden departure from Base Camp and I never had the opportunity to top them off. They lasted a few hours on the medium setting. On Manaslu, one battery pack was inadvertently turned on in my pack and was dead when I tried to use it. The other lasted all day at the lowest setting. If you, unlike me, can manage the battery issues properly, I highly recommend them. Boots While we are talking about feet, lets quickly cover boots, a subject I detest. People always ask me what boots should I for Aconcagua, Rainier, Everest. My answer – I don’t know! I have owned more pair of boots than socks – and that is a lot. And I have never been totally happy. I hear fellow climbers sing the praises of their boots – ” ever; my feet never get cold/wet; you HAVE to these: and on and on. Well, I’m happy that you are so happy – NOT! I struggle with boots. They are too narrow, too wide, too short. I get black toenails, blisters. My feet get hot, my feet get cold. My shins are worn bare. All that said, I do survive. I have used the older models of Millet, La Sportiva and currently Kayland on my 8000m, Vinson and Denali climbs. I have short, wide feet – like a duck – and wear a 8.5 street shoe and a 9 for climbing boots. I have never had frostbite or suffered too much so these three brands have served me well. On 8000 meter mountains the standard design are double boots with an integrated knee high gator. In my observation two brands dominate the scene: Millet and La Sportiva. But there are many out there that work just as well. One of the biggest challenges in finding a pair of 8000 meter boots is that feet swell at altitude. So if they fit in the store, they might not fit on the summit. The advice I can give is to go to a store and try them on with your summit socks :). The rule of thumb is to at least one size larger than your street shoe size. But widths vary greatly so the pair that fits the from that store. You can them online and save money but if they don’t fit, there is the hassle of returning them. Pay the extra, get expert advice and support your local store. If your local store does not carry these, select your online store carefully. Just like socks, wear them on a few long days at home to make sure
Gear Review: Layering System on Manaslu
As I planned my September 2013 climb of the world’s 8th highest mountain, Manaslu (26, 759 feet 8156 meters), I looked at my gear carefully. It had worked well on Everest and the 7 Summits plus countless other climbs but I wanted to reduce weight and frankly some of it was worn out with rips and thin spots. So I focused on upgrading my upper body layers. With that in mind, I went to the Patagonia website for some ideas and ended up replacing my warmth and wind layers. I am extremely pleased with the results. I have always been a big fan of Patagonia and have a lot of their kit which I usually on . With these new s, I am a devote’ for life. Ultralight Down Jacket with Hood I had used the Patagonia Micropuff Hooded jacket for years. It was my go-to warmth layer and was almost always in my pack from Vinson to Everest. It was the only top layer I wore on many of the 7 Summits. But I had ripped it and it did not pack very small but still met my needs. However, it was time to replace it. I liked the primaloft fill since it didn’t degrade when wet but I loved the idea of a new generation of lightweight down jackets as demonstrated by Mountain Hardwear’s Ghost Whisperer and Patagonia’s Ultralight Down Jacket with Hood. I bought the Ghost Whisperer but returned it after mistakenly ordering the hyperblue color – it was shinny and a bit too “blue” for me. Plus I was nervous about how fragile it appeared in spite of talking to people who had used it with success for a year. Given all this, I then ordered the Patagonia Ultralight. I have not looked backed. The jacket is unbelievably light coming in at 9 ounces. It packs to the size of an overgrown grapefruit and is warm, warm, warm. At times, I forgot I was wearing it on Manaslu. The fabric is tough and rejected my clumsy moves against sharp rock, ice and pro. And I love the hood. Regular readers will note my affection for hoods and all my jackets have one. This one adds at least 10 degrees to the warmth value for me. I took my heavy and bulky but trusted Feather Friends Volant 800 fill down jacket and never took it out of the stuff sack. Bottom line: a great jacket that is so light you might not notice. Specs Pros Cons 9.3 oz Shell and lining: 0.8-oz 10-denier 100% nylon ripstop with a Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish. Insulation: 800-fill-power premium European goose down Full hood $350 from Patagonia Warm Sheds moderate snow or light rain Collapsible Excellent hood Layers well slim fit Expensive Susceptible to very sharp objects Down not waterproof Does not pack into pocket Troposphere Jacket The second jacket I needed was a replacement for all my wind/rain/snow shells. I have quite a collection now ranging from heavy Gortex versions to light wind layers. But I wanted something that would repel a heavy rain or wet snow plus give me protection in a gale. This selection was more difficult than the down jacket. Gear manufacturers have gone nuts in this category in my view offering so many choices that I just gave up many times as I shopped. I wanted something light, it had to be wind and waterproof plus breathed (as much as anything waterproof breathes). It had to have a hood and I didn’t want to spend $500. The Patagonia Troposphere shell came into focus. It met my needs and was affordable. When I opened the packaging at home, I was a bit disappointed with the feel as it felt a bit plastic, more like a raincoat. But I gave it a go. And in my opinion, another winner. The material did “soften” a bit over time but more importantly it met my needs of rain and wind protection. In fact it also is pretty warm given the proper base layers underneath. The pockets are well placed and generous and the hood is the right size – not too big or small. I wore it often on Manaslu and on some training climbs here in Colorado. It shed water like a duck and kept out the wind like a wall. Bottom line: Keeps you warm and dry. What else do you need? Specs Pros Cons 17.4 oz H2No® Performance Standard 2.5-layer waterproof/breathable nylon stretch shell Full hood $300 from Patagonia Waterproof Windproof Excellent Hood Breaths well Excellent pockets Good neck protection Layers well Expensive Fabric feels a bit plastic Houdini Jacket Finally, I needed a new wind shirt. My Marmot Ion Wind Shirt had served me well for literally years but was developing holes and was not water resistant at all. Once again, this category is blessed with choices. But since I was on the Patagonia site, I looked at their Houdini wind shirt. It was priced right and offered what I wanted – small, lightweight, compressible and water repellent. I found myself wearing this on the trek and climb almost as a base layer. If the wind picked up, it was the first layer I put on. If it drizzled, the Houdini came out. The hood was perfect, once again adding warmth to the equation. Bottom line: Don’t leave home without it Specs Pros Cons 4 oz Nylon ripstop with a Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish Full hood $100 from Patagonia Tiny Light Windproof Good water repellent packs in own pocket Excellent for layering Excellent hood Pricey Susceptible to very sharp objects As always, my base layer was merino wool. I had a top and bottom from Icebreaker and am very pleased with them but most base layers made from this incredible sheep will work. I found myself climbing through 7000 meters often with the baselayer then one of the afore mentioned layers feeling warm, or cool, in spite of
The Explorers Club: an Honor to Become a Member
I am honored to now be a member of the historic Explorers Club. Founded in New York City in 1904, some of their legendary members include Sir Edmund Hillary, hospital Roald Amundsen and John Glenn. To join the club, you have to be nominated by two current members and accepted by the membership committee. The Club has about 3,000 members and 30 chapters in the U.S and around the world. It is humbling to be part of this environment but I am reminded of that famous Groucho Ma quote about clubs 🙂 My hope is that by joining The Club, I can share my journey of mountaineering and most importantly, my mission to end the world of Alzheimer’s. The purpose of the Club, according to their charter, is to: promotes the scientific exploration of land, sea, air, and space by supporting research and education in the physical, natural and biological sciences. The Club’s members have been responsible for an illustrious series of famous firsts: First to the North Pole, first to the South Pole, first to the summit of Mount Everest, first to the deepest point in the ocean, first to the surface of the moon—all accomplished by our members. The Club provides expedition resources including funding, online information, and member-to-member consultation. Their famed annual dinners honor accomplishments in exploration. At the New York headquarters, they maintain the Research Collections that includes a library and map room. This is to preserve the history of the Club and to assist those interested and engaged in exploration and scientific research. One historic aspect of The Club is their flag. Expeditions that further the cause of exploration and field science carry (and return) The Explorers Club flag on the journey. It has been carried on hundreds of expeditions by Club members since 1918 and has flown at both poles, from the highest peaks of the greatest mountain ranges, traveled to the depths of the ocean, to the lunar surface, and outer space. Today there are 202 numbered flags, each with its own history, displayed at the headquarters At the 2013 annual dinner, several medals will be awarded including one to Chhiring Dorje Sherpa who was instrumental in saving lives on the 2008 disaster on k2. You can read more about the Explorers Club at their site. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
The Link Between Climbing And Business Leadership
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Just a quick note to say thank you to all my readers, followers and supporters in 2012. My site has over 1 million loyal readers who follow me to keep up on climbing, Everest, my own adventures and, of course, Alzheimer’s. In that respect, a very special thank you to everyone who made a donation this year to one of the non-profits. 100% of your money goes to Alzheimer’s causes and none ever to me. I deeply appreciate your support and look forward to more in 2013. 2012 was a good year with more climbs, talks, friends and family. I spoke at 19 events, many keynotes, raising funds and awareness for Alzheimer’s causes. I was very proud that the short documentary of my 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s was shown on the AARP TV network (and on my home page of my site). I had successful summits of three serious mountains: Ben Nevis (Scotland), Alpamayo (Peru) and Rainier (Washington St). Multiple climbs of 14ers and Longs (5 summits this year alone), plus lots of rock, ice and fun climbs with my friends. Looking at next year, my annual coverage of the Everest 2013 spring season starts soon where I will do my to report on the facts, demystify some of the aura of Everest and try to bring this incredible mountain to climbers, fans and observers back home. As for me, I hope to climb another 8000m meter mountain later in 2013 – details soon. This will be my eighth climb on one the 8000m Big Peaks thus I will be training hard once again in my Colorado mountains to be ready. My wishes for a peaceful, happy and successful 2013 for each of you. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything